atwater Posted April 11, 2018 Share Posted April 11, 2018 (edited) Anybody have any insight with location for a wide band o2 sensor? Getting a bung welded into my Leo Vince exhaust to start playing with the pcv auto tune a little bit. This system has a very short distance between the collector and the muffler, this is about as far upstream as I can get without going into an individual header. With it being so close the the other O2 sensor would this cause poor readings from the downstream one? Stupid question maybe but checking before it’s to late. Edited April 11, 2018 by atwater Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member norcal616 Posted April 11, 2018 Premium Member Share Posted April 11, 2018 thats where I welded mine long ago IIRC when I had my LeoVince exhaust if you got enough sensor wire to reach that location... you will get better AFR readings w/baffle inatalled... edit: I actually welded my bung behind the stock o2 sensor bung... 2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition...2015 fj-09- 120whp- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich Race Kit- tuned by 2WDW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregjet Posted April 12, 2018 Share Posted April 12, 2018 if it is in the current distance spot but rotate so it is about 90deg to the original, there should be no flow interference. If it will fit under there. It's probably OK anyway. Go forth and modify my son...go forth and modify... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarGuy7a Posted April 14, 2018 Share Posted April 14, 2018 On 4/11/2018 at 3:58 PM, norcal616 said: thats where I welded mine long ago when I had my LeoVince exhaust if you got enough sensor wire to reach that location... you will get better AFR readings w/baffle inatalled... Like he said ^^^^ You'll get better AFR readings with the DB killer in. If you want to use autotune without the killer, do not input any target AFR values in the low throttle ranges 0% to about 5 or 10% as the reversion from the exhaust at low RPM's will give the wideband O2 a false reading, even with the killer it may still act a little bit funky. Also if you want the most performance and allow the autotune to work like it truly should, remove the stock O2 sensor from the bike and plug the bung. What happens when you remove it, it keeps the bike in open loop and keeps the ECU from going to the eco mode maps (even though the ECO mode light will still come on the dash). What happens when the bike goes into closed loop (while you are cruising) with the stock O2 hooked up, the ECU shoots for a target cruising AFR of 14.7 for emissions and when this happens it pretty much overrides anything your PCV or autotune is set at until it jumps out of that closed loop cycle. By removing the closed loop cycle (IE removing the stock O2) your PCV and autotune will have complete adjustment of the fueling all the time no matter cruising or WOT so you'll have to find those cruising ranges in RPM and throttle percentages in your AFR tables and adjust it according. I found that for good performance this bike really likes 13.2 AFR across the board and around 13.5 to 13.8AFR in the cruising ranges of the autotune tables. You should not get any engine lights or warnings on the dash with the stock O2 un plugged at least I didn't. Oh and I also removed the PCV O2 optimizer along with the stock sensor. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregjet Posted April 23, 2018 Share Posted April 23, 2018 (edited) If what CarGuy7a says is correct, then you don't need the extra bunghole. I love this forum. Ask and you will get someone with a where, how and why complete. AND a viable alternative or two... Edited April 23, 2018 by gregjet Go forth and modify my son...go forth and modify... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atwater Posted April 24, 2018 Author Share Posted April 24, 2018 Great guys thanks for the help got it welded up. We got buried in snow last week so I just got a chance to get it all put together. With it plugged into the laptop the AFR readings were consitant at idle not to many fluctuations. Up at rpm might be another story. I’m running a map from a forum member that’s for a different exhaust system so hoping this auto tune is as good as they claim and can adjust the fuel trim enough to fit this exhaust. It’s set up to try and avoid tuning in the eco mode and let the pcv o2 optimizer thing richen it up. You think it’s worth removing the factory O2 and putting some afr inputs say 13.8ish into the table under 10% throttle for the closed loop section? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregjet Posted April 25, 2018 Share Posted April 25, 2018 VERY nice welding Go forth and modify my son...go forth and modify... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member norcal616 Posted April 25, 2018 Premium Member Share Posted April 25, 2018 At first leave the "closed loop" area at 0 values... then run the auto tune, do as many diffrent types riding as possible, I take my bike out to my test location and do about 4 drag strip launches...Wander home to accept the trims... go repeat... then I go on a nice long cruise and enjoy the bike... this way you get an idea how it all works and what it feels like... later on you if you want you can go thru and remove the stock o2 and enter your own AFR values in the closed loop area or have a local dyno guru tune the closed loop area with you... you can use any of the FZ-07 exhaust maps, diffrent AFR values... some ppl love using the stock exhaust map from PCV on a aftermarket exhaust, etc... just be careful not to mess with the ignition tables... you have 2 different RPM tables to choose from, one that goes up by 250rpms or 500rpms... the 500rpm incremental map is my preferred choice as the 250rpm incremental map is a tad touchy for the FZ-07 motor.. once your happy with the map you created you can remove the auto tune and put away for later or use on another bike with a PCV...I also have used the Autotuner module, wideband sensor and the POD300 display on other non fuel injected bikes, cars,trucks just to see what AFR numbers they are running after we welded a sensor bung on... 2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition...2015 fj-09- 120whp- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich Race Kit- tuned by 2WDW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thrasherg Posted April 26, 2018 Share Posted April 26, 2018 I don't know who your welder was, but keep his name and number, that is some lovely welding.. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarGuy7a Posted April 29, 2018 Share Posted April 29, 2018 (edited) I recently did some data logging with the POD300 (I broke down and bought one) and the AFR results were pretty interesting. With the stock O2 removed, my cruising range real time AFR's (normally in the closed loop area) were around 14 which in the Autotune tables I have them set around 13.5 so it's really close. All other areas I have set to 13.2 AFR were in the range of 13.2 to 13.5 with the occasional 12 or 11 AFR here or there in which I'll have to buff out manually in the map. So all in all the autotune with the stock O2 sensor removed is pretty darn accurate. Edited April 29, 2018 by CarGuy7a Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregjet Posted April 29, 2018 Share Posted April 29, 2018 Thanks for that info. Where(conditions) was the rich readings? Go forth and modify my son...go forth and modify... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarGuy7a Posted May 2, 2018 Share Posted May 2, 2018 (edited) On 4/29/2018 at 5:48 PM, gregjet said: Thanks for that info. Where(conditions) was the rich readings? I attached the data log tables. Keep in mind this run was done on a 60°F day, the last time this bike was ran it was probably in the 90's or so, so the autotune had to correct quite a bit to compensate but it's still not too shabby. The 14's are where I was just cruising around steady throttle the richer numbers are rolling on throttle under decent load. The extremely lean numbers are of course off throttle readings. Also the readings in the 2% throttle range are fairly inaccurate due to the reversion in the exhaust and I have no AFR settings in that column, my autotune AFR corrections start at 5% and up. Edited May 2, 2018 by CarGuy7a Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atwater Posted May 4, 2018 Author Share Posted May 4, 2018 (edited) Found a local aerospace welding company to help out, cost me lunch. Keeping that number for next time. so got a a hundred miles or so on it. I’ve kept the target AFR at zero like you’ve said for the eco mode and left the factory sensor in for now. Not touching the ignition map not equipped to mess with that on the old butt dyno. Done several runs at different throttle postions to redline up and down letting it do it’s magic. It learned quickly it seems, bike pulls smooth and strong, off idle is still a bit sluggish but it always has been even when stock. Only major trim changes I’ve seen are in the 20-40% around 4000-5000rpm. Really richened the map up in there but bike is showing much higher mpg so it passes the dummy check for the unit. It was a cooler week mostly around 60. Need to get out of the city to really do some butt dyno tuning and see what it logs for a trim change. Great info guys, maybe I’ll talk my self into that pod300, would be great to tune the carbs on the other bike with out reading just plugs! Edited May 4, 2018 by atwater Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarGuy7a Posted May 5, 2018 Share Posted May 5, 2018 Oh yeah. Wideband O2's are great. I had jetting issue on my 07 CRF450R supermoto that I just couldn't shake. I couldn't put my finger on whether it was a jetting problem or a misfire while riding on the street. I threw a AEM wideband gauge on it (this was way before I had the POD300 setup) and found out it was a jetting issue. I had an overly rich surge while riding on the street that was masked as a misfire it was so bad. I'm talking 10 AFR. Leaned it down to 13.2 throughout the entire range and it ran smooth a silk after that. Amazing little tools these widebands are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
one5zero Posted November 11, 2019 Share Posted November 11, 2019 (edited) Hey everyone, I have a yoshi with damaged headers so I'm just replacing them, yoshi will cut off the 12 mm bung and weld an 18mm right there in their shop, I have two questions one why not just remove the stock hole and use a 18mm to 12mm adapter if you wanted to continue using the stock sensor? and are there any clearance issues with the larger sensor putting it where the stock hole was? Edited December 14, 2019 by one5zero grammar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now