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Lithium Ion Battery Charger


pegasus46

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52 minutes ago, twf said:

Most like it is your regulator. Stator produces AC current.

AC current is kinda redundant 

 

But yeah, the AC voltage is also pretty high - up around 60VAC per winding( 3 of em) at 4k RPM. That's rectified to DC  and then regulated - hopefully to somewhere 14-14.4-ish VDC to keep the AGM batteries happy. 

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30 minutes ago, rick said:

AC current is kinda redundant 

 

But yeah, the AC voltage is also pretty high - up around 60VAC per winding( 3 of em) at 4k RPM. That's rectified to DC  and then regulated - hopefully to somewhere 14-14.4-ish VDC to keep the AGM batteries happy. 

So where do you draw the line? Hot water heater, tuna fish sandwich...hmmm, there's got to be more but can't think.

 

You mentioned small wires on the Aprillia. Just by eliminating a couple of pugs on the DRZ and wiring direct from regulator to battery, I picked up 1/2 a volt...not bad and not my idea...saw it on thumpertalk years ago.

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2 hours ago, markstertt said:

So where do you draw the line? Hot water heater, tuna fish sandwich...hmmm, there's got to be more but can't think.

These guys can help:

 

Dord.png

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19 hours ago, markstertt said:

So where do you draw the line? Hot water heater, tuna fish sandwich...hmmm, there's got to be more but can't think.

 

You mentioned small wires on the Aprillia. Just by eliminating a couple of pugs on the DRZ and wiring direct from regulator to battery, I picked up 1/2 a volt...not bad and not my idea...saw it on thumpertalk years ago.

"Hot water heater", lol.

 

The OE regulator on that silly bike had a higher output at idle than at 4k by about 0.2V and neither was really high enough to keep the battery happy. One smart person on the forum decided to run 14g wires from the regulator, straight to the battery via a fuse and voila, voltage jumped from the low 13s up to 13.9 at 4k. Aftermarket regulator/rectifiers (or ones off of a CBR600 etc) will hold a nice 14.2-.4V w/o the extra wires.  

 

There are 2, 30A main fuses near the battery and 5, 15A ones up at the instrument panel with a solid 0.5-1V loss between here and there - sooo many connectors. Some are just impossible to reach w/o unplugging large sections of the loom. There are relays controlling relays (heh, heh, relay relays) and all manner of interconnected circuits that make diagnosing an issue great fun. The tip-over sensor and side stand switch control a relay that then controls the injector relay and ignition. Sheesh. 

 

From the looks of it, the loom was hung on and into the V of the Rotax before it was shoe-horned into that beautiful polished alloy frame.

 

Even with some quirks, it's been the most reliable motorcycle I've ever owned in near 50 years of riding. Time will tell if the FZ makes the grade - I'm thinking yep.  

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31 minutes ago, rick said:

"Hot water heater", lol.

 

The OE regulator on that silly bike had a higher output at idle than at 4k by about 0.2V and neither was really high enough to keep the battery happy. One smart person on the forum decided to run 14g wires from the regulator, straight to the battery via a fuse and voila, voltage jumped from the low 13s up to 13.9 at 4k. Aftermarket regulator/rectifiers (or ones off of a CBR600 etc) will hold a nice 14.2-.4V w/o the extra wires.  

 

There are 2, 30A main fuses near the battery and 5, 15A ones up at the instrument panel with a solid 0.5-1V loss between here and there - sooo many connectors. Some are just impossible to reach w/o unplugging large sections of the loom. There are relays controlling relays (heh, heh, relay relays) and all manner of interconnected circuits that make diagnosing an issue great fun. The tip-over sensor and side stand switch control a relay that then controls the injector relay and ignition. Sheesh. 

 

From the looks of it, the loom was hung on and into the V of the Rotax before it was shoe-horned into that beautiful polished alloy frame.

 

Even with some quirks, it's been the most reliable motorcycle I've ever owned in near 50 years of riding. Time will tell if the FZ makes the grade - I'm thinking yep.  

Once when I was making a hot dog cooker for a cub scout badge, I put the too ends together abd BOOM blinded for like 5 minutes as my mom beat the shet out of me for blowing the fuses in the house.

 

Recommend not to do that


Got to love the 60s man, Hey nothign is going to happen man

 

“Laws that forbid the carrying of arms disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes.” --Thomas Jefferson quoting Cesare Beccaria

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R1. Just noticed your post about Shorai under estimating the battery output needed and changing them.

They definitely did, in Australian site at least, change the recommended battery for both the Husky TR650 and the MT/FZ07. I bought EXACTLY the recommended batteries for the two bikes and had problems. Went back later and found the recommendations ahd been moved upwards. Got a new recommended rated battery and it has been good since. Wasn't so pissed off because the original rated battery is the correct rating for my GS500 update project.

Go forth and modify my son...go forth and modify...

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On 3/15/2018 at 4:26 PM, gregjet said:

R1. Just noticed your post about Shorai under estimating the battery output needed and changing them.

They definitely did, in Australian site at least, change the recommended battery for both the Husky TR650 and the MT/FZ07. I bought EXACTLY the recommended batteries for the two bikes and had problems. Went back later and found the recommendations ahd been moved upwards. Got a new recommended rated battery and it has been good since. Wasn't so pissed off because the original rated battery is the correct rating for my GS500 update project.

A buddy of mine bought the one originally recommended for his ZRX1200 Kaw and it fell flat on its face wen it got cold out. Shorai sorta took it in trade and sold him the next bigger and even more expensive battery. The battery worked fine. Seems they way overestimated the cold start ability when they 1st came out.  

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I have just bought a LiFePO4 dedicated charger made by Optimate. It seems to have saved one of the old Shorais that I have been struggleing with for a while ( the other battery had a stuffed cell which the new charger told me) and is doing a way better job of charging them. Very smart charger. So far seems to do a better job, by far, than the Shorai charger.

Optimate model TM478. I suspect the shorai charger was designed early in the evolution of the LFP batteries and the Optimate is a newer updated charge algorithym. I will report anything else I find but so far it is VERY good. This is the one I just got.

https://www.ebay.ie/itm/Tecmate-Optimate-Lithium-LiFePO4-Battery-Charger-Tester-Maintainer-TM-478-/292117875382

Go forth and modify my son...go forth and modify...

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Both my bikes and my car live 24/7 on Optimates when not on the road. they're a little pricey as this type of charger goes, but their made well (the newer ones are OK for outdoor use) and the electronics are really sophisticated. 

 

looks like we get a slightly different model number and yikes, a huge difference in price. https://www.amazon.com/OptiMATE-Lithium-TM-471-Battery-charger-tester-maintainer/dp/B00Y38X7WI/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1521292351&sr=8-4-fkmr1&keywords=Optimate+TM-478

 

 

 

 

 

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The 478 is for small batteries only. Very limited current.

Go forth and modify my son...go forth and modify...

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