Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Had the bike start with no issues or hesitation down to mid to low 40's F. My thought on getting a lithium battery was cost and weight. A new lead or agm cost was close, if not the same as an off brand lithium. The lithium is about 1/3rd the weight too so that helps in hauling my weight around ūüėĀ. Since the OE only lasted 2 years and was not abused, if the new one lasts as long I broke even in my mind.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
12 hours ago, Kyuzo said:

Yeah, I installed my lithium in Hawaii no issues. Took my bike with back to CA for a year. Be turning over the bike like 5 times in the morning eventually draining the battery and toasting it. Picked up lead acid 1st runover it starts, stayed that way for another year until my bike got trashed by thieves and I ended up giving it away and made some kid really happy! 

 

Enjoying my Fz07 though...  Muahahahha

 

 

 

 

 

MUAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHA

Not SHEET too, I argued with Shorai on this premise

So warming up the battery means extra load on the electric start motor prematurely wearing it out or down?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, r1limited said:

Not SHEET too, I argued with Shorai on this premise

So warming up the battery means extra load on the electric start motor prematurely wearing it out or down?

No, any load will do...headlight, brake light or what ever you can turn on with a decent draw.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
17 minutes ago, r1limited said:

Not my experiance with the shoria

I never tried shorai because my bro had a couple and even with the charger he went through a few so I went cheap Deltran, after 3 years in the drz I think it's getting near it's end however, will see soon.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am beginning to find my Shorais are dying. Been using them for years ( not heavy usage). Looks like I may have overcharged them though so probably as much my fault. Getting an aftermarket quality LFP charger for my still OK ones. About to toss 3 of them. That hurts , they weren't cheap.

My girlfriends SB seems to have performed pretty well though. And the one in my 07 seems to be behaving itself better than the other bikes so the charging circuit may be better suited.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, gregjet said:

I am beginning to find my Shorais are dying. Been using them for years ( not heavy usage). Looks like I may have overcharged them though so probably as much my fault. Getting an aftermarket quality LFP charger for my still OK ones. About to toss 3 of them. That hurts , they weren't cheap.

My girlfriends SB seems to have performed pretty well though. And the one in my 07 seems to be behaving itself better than the other bikes so the charging circuit may be better suited.

Judging by the size of the OE battery in the FZ and how well the starter spins up on it, I'd say the battery isn't challenged much in this bike. A Li battery might be a good match in that respect.

 

If it's cold out and ya gotta 1st warm up the battery by drawing some current thru it, may as well power up a vest or gloves instead of just wasting it in lumens.  

 

Li batteries and that Aprilia of mine are not a happy match, especially when cold - pistons are too big and the wiring is way too small. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

Just remembered something in my dealing with Shorai on the R1 in colder weather.  It seems the stators produce a specific range of voltage and expects a spcific amount of voltage from the battery 12.5v Minimal.  If either are lower than the result is slow start until you cranked the damn thing long enough to warm up.  I was not going to chance tossing in a new stator on the suggestion of Shorai when my stator tested fine and fire right up with a standar acid or gell battery.  That is when I tossed the Shorai got a bikemaster gell and boom fires right up and I cans use a battery tenderizor.  I have had many customers with R1, Gixer, Kumandsuckme ningers with zero issues running Shorai's.  I can believe that a stator that is not producing wouold be a problem but.....

Edited by r1limited

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, r1limited said:

Just remembered something in my dealing with Shorai on the R1 in colder weather.  It seems the stators produce a specific range of voltage and expects a spcific amount of voltage from the battery 12.5v Minimal.  If either are lower than the result is slow start until you cranked the damn thing long enough to warm up.  I was not going to chance tossing in a new stator on the suggestion of Shorai when my stator tested fine and fire right up with a standar acid or gell battery.  That is when I tossed the Shorai got a bikemaster gell and boom fires right up and I cans use a battery tenderizor.  I have had many customers with R1, Gixer, Kumandsuckme ningers with zero issues running Shorai's.  I can believe that a stator that is not producing wouold be a problem but.....

Most like it is your regulator. Stator produces AC current.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
52 minutes ago, twf said:

Most like it is your regulator. Stator produces AC current.

AC current is kinda redundant 

 

But yeah, the AC voltage is also pretty high - up around 60VAC per winding( 3 of em) at 4k RPM. That's rectified to DC  and then regulated - hopefully to somewhere 14-14.4-ish VDC to keep the AGM batteries happy. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
30 minutes ago, rick said:

AC current is kinda redundant 

 

But yeah, the AC voltage is also pretty high - up around 60VAC per winding( 3 of em) at 4k RPM. That's rectified to DC  and then regulated - hopefully to somewhere 14-14.4-ish VDC to keep the AGM batteries happy. 

So where do you draw the line? Hot water heater, tuna fish sandwich...hmmm, there's got to be more but can't think.

 

You mentioned small wires on the Aprillia. Just by eliminating a couple of pugs on the DRZ and wiring direct from regulator to battery, I picked up 1/2 a volt...not bad and not my idea...saw it on thumpertalk years ago.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
19 hours ago, markstertt said:

So where do you draw the line? Hot water heater, tuna fish sandwich...hmmm, there's got to be more but can't think.

 

You mentioned small wires on the Aprillia. Just by eliminating a couple of pugs on the DRZ and wiring direct from regulator to battery, I picked up 1/2 a volt...not bad and not my idea...saw it on thumpertalk years ago.

"Hot water heater", lol.

 

The OE regulator on that silly bike had a higher output at idle than at 4k by about 0.2V and neither was really high enough to keep the battery happy. One smart person on the forum decided to run 14g wires from the regulator, straight to the battery via a fuse and voila, voltage jumped from the low 13s up to 13.9 at 4k. Aftermarket regulator/rectifiers (or ones off of a CBR600 etc) will hold a nice 14.2-.4V w/o the extra wires.  

 

There are 2, 30A main fuses near the battery and 5, 15A ones up at the instrument panel with a solid 0.5-1V loss between here and there - sooo many connectors. Some are just impossible to reach w/o unplugging large sections of the loom. There are relays controlling relays (heh, heh, relay relays) and all manner of interconnected circuits that make diagnosing an issue great fun. The tip-over sensor and side stand switch control a relay that then controls the injector relay and ignition. Sheesh. 

 

From the looks of it, the loom was hung on and into the V of the Rotax before it was shoe-horned into that beautiful polished alloy frame.

 

Even with some quirks, it's been the most reliable motorcycle I've ever owned in near 50 years of riding. Time will tell if the FZ makes the grade - I'm thinking yep.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)
31 minutes ago, rick said:

"Hot water heater", lol.

 

The OE regulator on that silly bike had a higher output at idle than at 4k by about 0.2V and neither was really high enough to keep the battery happy. One smart person on the forum decided to run 14g wires from the regulator, straight to the battery via a fuse and voila, voltage jumped from the low 13s up to 13.9 at 4k. Aftermarket regulator/rectifiers (or ones off of a CBR600 etc) will hold a nice 14.2-.4V w/o the extra wires.  

 

There are 2, 30A main fuses near the battery and 5, 15A ones up at the instrument panel with a solid 0.5-1V loss between here and there - sooo many connectors. Some are just impossible to reach w/o unplugging large sections of the loom. There are relays controlling relays (heh, heh, relay relays) and all manner of interconnected circuits that make diagnosing an issue great fun. The tip-over sensor and side stand switch control a relay that then controls the injector relay and ignition. Sheesh. 

 

From the looks of it, the loom was hung on and into the V of the Rotax before it was shoe-horned into that beautiful polished alloy frame.

 

Even with some quirks, it's been the most reliable motorcycle I've ever owned in near 50 years of riding. Time will tell if the FZ makes the grade - I'm thinking yep.  

Once when I was making a hot dog cooker for a cub scout badge, I put the too ends together abd BOOM blinded for like 5 minutes as my mom beat the shet out of me for blowing the fuses in the house.

 

Recommend not to do that


Got to love the 60s man, Hey nothign is going to happen man

 

Edited by r1limited

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.