R6-FZ07 Posted February 2, 2018 Share Posted February 2, 2018 Finally got the front suspension done what a difference. But cost a little more as I planned the guy that sold me the bike didn't tell me he crashed or hit something hard (why would he) there was a kink on the inner fork tubes. I had to replace them. But she rides better now. Springs and gold valves only. No rebound adjustment. In other news. So I bleed the brakes and the bleeder valve (1 front and the rear) you really have to tighten it hard for it not to leak. I replaced the bleeder valve but still leaks. any thread sealer I can use on them? For the next time I bleed them. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1limited Posted February 2, 2018 Share Posted February 2, 2018 I always use a tad bit of teflon tape. “Laws that forbid the carrying of arms disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes.” --Thomas Jefferson quoting Cesare Beccaria Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted February 2, 2018 Share Posted February 2, 2018 Hmm, those bleeder valves don't seal at the threads. They seal at the bottom of the valve - it's tapered and seats into a taper at the bottom of the hole. Using teflon tape on the threads a can help with bleeding to prevent air getting past the threads when the valve is loose. But something is wrong if you really have to crank down on the valve to get it to seal. That you replaced the valve suggests there's either crud (dirt or maybe a some machining spooge) at the bottom of the hole or it was not cut properly. Can see that taper here https://www.amazon.com/Russell-639570-Speed-Bleeder/dp/B000CPCOB6/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000CPCOB6&pd_rd_r=Q0WTKQ91S7KQNGTQHBVQ&pd_rd_w=5P6SR&pd_rd_wg=pJZph&psc=1&refRID=Q0WTKQ91S7KQNGTQHBVQ&dpID=41c596i4-hL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail I would suggest pulling the valve, and having a close look inside the hole to its bottom. If yer lucky, there's just something stuck down there that a small pick will remove. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thrasherg Posted February 2, 2018 Share Posted February 2, 2018 I also suspect you have something (dirt or foreign material) in the bottom that is preventing the the bleed valve from sealing completely, the bad news is that if you have really done the bleed valve up tight, you probably forced the debris into the soft aluminium surface of the fork and wont be able to now pick it out, you will probably need to get a tapered drill and try to recut the seating face? I hope I am wrong, but as stated, the bleed bolts should need very little force to seal up the brake system. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R6-FZ07 Posted February 2, 2018 Author Share Posted February 2, 2018 3 hours ago, rick said: Hmm, those bleeder valves don't seal at the threads. They seal at the bottom of the valve - it's tapered and seats into a taper at the bottom of the hole. Using teflon tape on the threads a can help with bleeding to prevent air getting past the threads when the valve is loose. But something is wrong if you really have to crank down on the valve to get it to seal. That you replaced the valve suggests there's either crud (dirt or maybe a some machining spooge) at the bottom of the hole or it was not cut properly. Can see that taper here https://www.amazon.com/Russell-639570-Speed-Bleeder/dp/B000CPCOB6/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000CPCOB6&pd_rd_r=Q0WTKQ91S7KQNGTQHBVQ&pd_rd_w=5P6SR&pd_rd_wg=pJZph&psc=1&refRID=Q0WTKQ91S7KQNGTQHBVQ&dpID=41c596i4-hL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail I would suggest pulling the valve, and having a close look inside the hole to its bottom. If yer lucky, there's just something stuck down there that a small pick will remove. Ok. I'll have a look. Would those speed bleeder you on the link work for the FZ07? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R6-FZ07 Posted February 2, 2018 Author Share Posted February 2, 2018 16 minutes ago, Thrasherg said: I also suspect you have something (dirt or foreign material) in the bottom that is preventing the the bleed valve from sealing completely, the bad news is that if you have really done the bleed valve up tight, you probably forced the debris into the soft aluminium surface of the fork and wont be able to now pick it out, you will probably need to get a tapered drill and try to recut the seating face? I hope I am wrong, but as stated, the bleed bolts should need very little force to seal up the brake system. Gary I hope your wrong too...haha. But it was a little tight when I tried to open them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thrasherg Posted February 2, 2018 Share Posted February 2, 2018 3 minutes ago, R6-FZ07 said: I hope your wrong too...haha. But it was a little tight when I tried to open them. It is often tight to open as a lot of companies put a light thread lock on the bleed bolts to prevent them vibrating loose and to help seal the gap between the bleed valve and the fork when first bleeding the brake system. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted February 2, 2018 Share Posted February 2, 2018 Just the nature of the conical bottom will cause a fair amount of friction, making those valves always harder to open than close - even after 15 years of opening and closing. Not sure I've ever seen loctite on those threads. As you found out, those valves need a sharp bump on the wrench to break free anyway. I use a 6 point socket to break them free and then swap to a small box end wrench to open/close while bleeding. Dunno about the speed bleeders for fit. Just found a pict of the ends inside the hole to show as an example. I'm sure there are versions of the speedbleeders that will fit however - just need to know the thread size. Lots of folk swear by those speed bleeders. Meh, never really found a need myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R6-FZ07 Posted February 2, 2018 Author Share Posted February 2, 2018 21 minutes ago, Thrasherg said: It is often tight to open as a lot of companies put a light thread lock on the bleed bolts to prevent them vibrating loose and to help seal the gap between the bleed valve and the fork when first bleeding the brake system. Gary Would I be able to use this? https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-59214-Temperature-Thread-Sealant/dp/B0002UEOP0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted February 2, 2018 Share Posted February 2, 2018 Gonna assume where it's leaking is up thru the center the valve. Sealing the threads is not gonna help if the valve seat is damaged. Best thing to do is remove that valve and use a cotton swab to try and clean that seat area. Give the swab a spin when it's been bottomed in the hole and then pull out. If yer lucky, so bits of whatever will come out. You might even be able to see a spot on the conical end of the valve where it should seat in the caliper and is not. You can also try another new bleeder - maybe a different brand or an actual Yamaha part. The taper of the bleeder really does need to match the conical shape of the seat, but in this case, you might be better off if the taper bottoms on a new spot in that cone. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R6-FZ07 Posted February 2, 2018 Author Share Posted February 2, 2018 1 hour ago, rick said: Gonna assume where it's leaking is up thru the center the valve. Sealing the threads is not gonna help if the valve seat is damaged. Best thing to do is remove that valve and use a cotton swab to try and clean that seat area. Give the swab a spin when it's been bottomed in the hole and then pull out. If yer lucky, so bits of whatever will come out. You might even be able to see a spot on the conical end of the valve where it should seat in the caliper and is not. You can also try another new bleeder - maybe a different brand or an actual Yamaha part. The taper of the bleeder really does need to match the conical shape of the seat, but in this case, you might be better off if the taper bottoms on a new spot in that cone. . Awesome. I'm going try that out. I did forget to mention that it is leaking from the threads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted February 2, 2018 Share Posted February 2, 2018 Have a look at this pict from amazon - the cone at the bottom is what seals the bleeder. When you unscrew it, fluid can enter that hole on the side and travel up thru the middle of the bleeder. So even if you could stop it from leaking around the threads, it'll then just follow the path of least resistance and start leaking out the center of the bleeder. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076LHNGD9/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B076LHNGD9&pd_rd_wg=8IYL1&pd_rd_r=S95QTA5ADYP34HDT19WC&pd_rd_w=naPoi Hopefully there's just a bit of crud at the bottom of the hole that you can carefully extricate w/o causing any scratches in the seat and that will allow the bleeder to seal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twf Posted February 3, 2018 Share Posted February 3, 2018 It is normal to see little fluid coming out of the threads after bleeding brakes. Just wipe it off couple times and it will be fine. Tightening bleed screw just makes it worse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted February 3, 2018 Share Posted February 3, 2018 I actually roll up a bit of paper towel and poke it down the bleeder to soak up the residual stuck in there. So that's a good question - is it really leaking or just a wee bit of residual fluid from the bleed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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