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Ohlins InstallHelp


rweakley

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So I need a little help with my install.  On the instructions, it says to not remove the oil lock (sleeve?) or the top out spring.  I ended up just tipping over the fork to get the damper rod out, and the spring came with.  I don’t think that’s a big deal, it just slid back in.  They say to reference the service manual to ensure the oil lock is in the correct position if you remove it.  I didn’t remove it, but I could hear something moving around below the inner stanchion if I turn it upside down.  I’m guessing this is the sleeve/oil lock they are talking about.  I looked in with a mag light, and it isn’t like flipping around or anything and settles on the bottom when I have it upright.  So my questions:

 

1. As I insert the cartridge, how do I ensure that this item is in the correct position?

2.  Unrelated, but how do I measure 110 mm of oil?

 

Thanks for any help.

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Yoru welcome

 

Motion pro fork oil guage for measuring

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The other part I dunno but you could use
 

 

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“Laws that forbid the carrying of arms disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes.” --Thomas Jefferson quoting Cesare Beccaria

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Well I got one of those syringe kits.  Also got hold of a service manual.   I think I'm good as far as the way it's situated.  I did see in the manual, however, to be careful not to bottom out the inner stanchion due to damage to the oil stopper (official name of the part).  Oops...I bottomed them out a few times.  The thing about tackling a new project like this is you never know what you don't know.  Or maybe it's just me.  I did a few google searches hoping for a walkthrough on this install, but very little info.  And I'm decently mechanically inclined, but not all that knowledgeable with suspension.

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By bottoming it out you don't want to smack it hard, it is plastic and can break. Once you install cartridge it will fit inside of it and keep it centered. And once you fill it with oil you don't have to worry about it, you can't hit it hard. 

Just compress forks fully, make sure stopper is seated inside tube, put cartridge in while fork is compressed and install bolt. 

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25 minutes ago, twf said:

By bottoming it out you don't want to smack it hard, it is plastic and can break. Once you install cartridge it will fit inside of it and keep it centered. And once you fill it with oil you don't have to worry about it, you can't hit it hard. 

Just compress forks fully, make sure stopper is seated inside tube, put cartridge in while fork is compressed and install bolt. 

Thanks.  I wasn’t like slamming it home, but it did drop down on it a couple times while I was figuring things out.  It’s really hard to get a visual down in there, even with a really good light source.  I really don’t want to take the seals off right now.  Like I said I wasn’t terribly rough with it, so I’m guessing it’s ok.  And I’ve been pretty ginger since reading that.  I hope to have the forks done by this weekend, then I can work on the rear.  But gotta go out to the desert and train for a while first.

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10 hours ago, rweakley said:

The thing about tackling a new project like this is you never know what you don't know.

Actually its called pre-research.  Experimenting is you can grind off the mistake and start over ;)

 

“Laws that forbid the carrying of arms disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes.” --Thomas Jefferson quoting Cesare Beccaria

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I know Ohlins says 110mm fluid height on the box. I wouldn't go any less than 130 and actually would start with more like 150mm. Make sure you're measuring with the spring out, but the spring GUIDE in. Unless you have my Compression mods, run a 8-10cSt@40 oil in the C leg if you plan to use it on the street. The 'Reb' leg the Ohlins 19cSt@40 oil is fine.

 

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11 hours ago, r1limited said:

Actually its called pre-research.  Experimenting is you can grind off the mistake and start over ;)

 

I won’t necessarily disagree with this, but it still holds true that you don’t know what you don’t know.  I had access to the Ohlins instructions, but not the service manual.  The Ohlins manual didn’t mention anything about the sleeve being breakable.  I didn’t know that there was a fragile part in it until I went to the dealership for oil and they showed me the service manual.  I never would have thought to search Google for something like that.  And honestly there were very few references to oil lock sleeve in general, which is why I came here.

 

I have numerous times reasearched immensely a project and at some point along the way, thought, “damn that would’ve been nice to know.”  But if you don’t know what to look for, it’s hard to research something.

42 minutes ago, pattonme said:

I know Ohlins says 110mm fluid height on the box. I wouldn't go any less than 130 and actually would start with more like 150mm. Make sure you're measuring with the spring out, but the spring GUIDE in. Unless you have my Compression mods, run a 8-10cSt@40 oil in the C leg if you plan to use it on the street. The 'Reb' leg the Ohlins 19cSt@40 oil is fine.

 

Sooooo, I don’t have this mod, and I don’t really know what you’re talking about.  I got a 5 weight oil.  Are you saying I should’ve gotten an 8-10 and a 19???  Or is this a different type of measurement?  The manual said Ohlins part 01309-xx.  So we looked that up at the dealership, and settled on a 5 weight since they don’t sell Ohlins.  This is my first go round, so I’m not all that savvy.  Learning on the go.

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11 minutes ago, rweakley said:

Sooooo, I don’t have this mod, and I don’t really know what you’re talking about.  I got a 5 weight oil.  Are you saying I should’ve gotten an 8-10 and a 19???  Or is this a different type of measurement?  The manual said Ohlins part 01309-xx.  So we looked that up at the dealership, and settled on a 5 weight since they don’t sell Ohlins.  This is my first go round, so I’m not all that savvy.  Learning on the go.

whose oil exactly? The '#W' notation means very little with respect to viscosity.

cSt@40 is an industry standard and scientific measurement. Ohlins 01309 (aka R&T43) is a 19cSt@40 a little bit heavy for cartridges but no biggie in the rebound direction.

The compression valving in the NIX-22 is much too heavy for street use and triply so if you use their kit oil.

Here's a handy oil chart. https://www.dropbox.com/s/rigjw2juyyvi7jn/Fork oil weights.html

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7 minutes ago, djfz07 said:

Following this as I have an Ohlins install coming up shortly!

yeah but yours has been modified for street use. Personally I would toss the bottom-out cone (white plastic bit) but that does require splitting the forks.

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1 hour ago, pattonme said:

whose oil exactly? The '#W' notation means very little with respect to viscosity.

cSt@40 is an industry standard and scientific measurement. Ohlins 01309 (aka R&T43) is a 19cSt@40 a little bit heavy for cartridges but no biggie in the rebound direction.

The compression valving in the NIX-22 is much too heavy for street use and triply so if you use their kit oil.

Here's a handy oil chart. https://www.dropbox.com/s/rigjw2juyyvi7jn/Fork oil weights.html

It’s Maxima, and it doesn’t list the standard to which you’re referring.   I can take it back; it’s unopened.  Are you talking about the bottom out cone for both of us or just djfz?  What’s the mod you do?  Is this cartridge made just for the track?  I was under the impression I could dial it in how I want it (which the factory is supposed to help with because they ask weight and riding style when ordering).

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6 hours ago, rweakley said:

It’s Maxima, and it doesn’t list the standard to which you’re referring.   I can take it back; it’s unopened.  Are you talking about the bottom out cone for both of us or just djfz?  What’s the mod you do?  Is this cartridge made just for the track?  I was under the impression I could dial it in how I want it (which the factory is supposed to help with because they ask weight and riding style when ordering).

The Maxima (i'm guessing 85/150?) will work for the rebound. Try it in the comp leg too if you like. If it's too stiff go buy another quart of something a lot thinner then drain and re-fill.

The factory doesn't tailor diddly squat. Every NIX-22 kit is identical except which springs they throw in the box.

The needle is only affecting the slow bleed circuit which isn't in the picture when hitting actual bumps.

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On 2/2/2018 at 1:31 AM, pattonme said:

The Maxima (i'm guessing 85/150?) will work for the rebound. Try it in the comp leg too if you like. If it's too stiff go buy another quart of something a lot thinner then drain and re-fill.

The factory doesn't tailor diddly squat. Every NIX-22 kit is identical except which springs they throw in the box.

The needle is only affecting the slow bleed circuit which isn't in the picture when hitting actual bumps.

I talked to STG a few times because this thing was on backorder for so long. They explained to me that Ohlins Sweden ships to Ohlins America.  When they get it, it gets adjusted based on the riding style and weight I entered when purchasing.  You're saying I was lied to?

 

I'll have to check on the 85/150 part.

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58 minutes ago, twf said:

You didn't but it is same thing. They are different labels but specs for flow are same. cst@40 is 15.9 for both.

Ok, then I got the same thing. But not the same thing.  Anyways, I've got them back together with the exception of the top cap being tightened.  I didn't have a 36mm socket in my inventory.  So once I pick one of those up, I'll get the top caps tightened down and ride it for a bit.  If I don't like the way it feels, I'll change the oil around with the specs @pattonme suggested.  I guess you have to take the forks back out for that.  Oh well, now that I've done it once, it won't be nearly as daunting a task.

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Just tighten it by hand. Smooth jaw pliers come handy if you want little tighter.

You can pump/drain most of the oil without taking cartridge out. If you refreshing forks than you not only have to take them out but should take cartridge totally apart.

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23 hours ago, rweakley said:

I talked to STG a few times because this thing was on backorder for so long. They explained to me that Ohlins Sweden ships to Ohlins America.  When they get it, it gets adjusted based on the riding style and weight I entered when purchasing.  You're saying I was lied to?

yes, sorta. Riding style + weight leads to spring selection. Nobody in the chain takes the cartridge apart and adjusts shims except your installer, if you pay him extra to do so. 

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On 2/3/2018 at 4:51 PM, twf said:

Just tighten it by hand. Smooth jaw pliers come handy if you want little tighter.

You can pump/drain most of the oil without taking cartridge out. If you refreshing forks than you not only have to take them out but should take cartridge totally apart.

I used a low power impact wrench briefly.  I tried just tightening by hand with the $11 impact socket I bought, but when I tried adjusting the preload back and forth, it started loosening the top cap.  Unfortunately, I can't get the socket on the cap while the fork is installed on bike, it's too big.

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On 2/4/2018 at 7:40 AM, pattonme said:

yes, sorta. Riding style + weight leads to spring selection. Nobody in the chain takes the cartridge apart and adjusts shims except your installer, if you pay him extra to do so. 

Well you're right about it not coming adjusted, but the install required the adjustors to be backed all the way out.  They did offer a suggested setting for the adjustments though.  8 and 10 clicks for rebound and compression respectively.  I'll have to adjust the preload based on sag.  Then I'll adjust by feel and see about changing the oil if need be.  Can you tell me about the mod you offer?  I'm not all that familiar with suspensions.

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From my understanding, the modification that pattonme does is to help with the stiff high speed compression.  This is what helps with actual bumps you'll encounter on the street and it is something that isn't externally adjustable via the screws on the fork caps.  With the Ohlins kit (and every FZ07cartridge kit that I know of) you get preload, rebound, and LOW speed adjusters.  The compression fork needs to be internally modified (flipping the valve, redoing the shim stack) to adjust its high speed bump behavior.

 

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