atxjax Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 I want to replace my stock chain as there is alot of chatter with the stock chain. Thinking of getting a Gold DID X-ring chain. From what I understand it is a 525 with 108 links is what I need? Clip on masterlink OK? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rider Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 That's a good brand to go with and you're correct on the size. There's some debate on masterlinks, but IMO a clip on masterlink is fine, just make sure you get everything pressed on correctly (a chain press is super good to have and pretty cheap). A riveted masterlink is probably more secure, but I've run both and have only had one failure (a clip-on that I'm almost sure wasn't put on correctly as it came apart on the 1st ride). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1limited Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 Go with a 520 conversion kit, you save weight as the stock is over kill. IMO “Laws that forbid the carrying of arms disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes.” --Thomas Jefferson quoting Cesare Beccaria Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atxjax Posted January 25, 2018 Author Share Posted January 25, 2018 53 minutes ago, r1limited said: Go with a 520 conversion kit, you save weight as the stock is over kill. IMO Just dont really wanna spend money on the sprockets. I should be able to do this 525 chain and just use a clip style link. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shinyribs Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 Nothing wrong with a clip style link at all. If you're going to a race track they'll demand a river link or a safety wired clip link. People say high horsepower bikes need a rivet link, but the forces that would push a clip off have nothing to do with how much power is applied to the chain. Sounds like you already are, but don't buy a "FZ07" chain, because you'll probably over pay. Just order the size you need. If you have a chain breaker you can sometimes buy a chain a little longer than what you need and save money due to the longer length being more common. Just have to look around and see what's up. However, you can sometimes find some complete chain/sprocket kits on eBay way cheaper than the individual parts would cost. Just a heads up. I replaced my stock chain with a DID xring for the exact same reason. These bikes already have DID xring chains, but not their top level chain ( forget the model numbers). Anyway, my new chain is just as rattly as the original chain. I'm no engineer, but I think there may just be some dynamic with these bikes that causes that rattle. Maybe the 270° firing pulses cause an unusual harmonic? Something in the geometry of the final drive? I dunno, but replacing my chain helped nothing. I stock the stock chain on the shelf and will reinstall it when my new chain wears out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atxjax Posted January 25, 2018 Author Share Posted January 25, 2018 49 minutes ago, shinyribs said: Nothing wrong with a clip style link at all. If you're going to a race track they'll demand a river link or a safety wired clip link. People say high horsepower bikes need a rivet link, but the forces that would push a clip off have nothing to do with how much power is applied to the chain. Sounds like you already are, but don't buy a "FZ07" chain, because you'll probably over pay. Just order the size you need. If you have a chain breaker you can sometimes buy a chain a little longer than what you need and save money due to the longer length being more common. Just have to look around and see what's up. However, you can sometimes find some complete chain/sprocket kits on eBay way cheaper than the individual parts would cost. Just a heads up. I replaced my stock chain with a DID xring for the exact same reason. These bikes already have DID xring chains, but not their top level chain ( forget the model numbers). Anyway, my new chain is just as rattly as the original chain. I'm no engineer, but I think there may just be some dynamic with these bikes that causes that rattle. Maybe the 270° firing pulses cause an unusual harmonic? Something in the geometry of the final drive? I dunno, but replacing my chain helped nothing. I stock the stock chain on the shelf and will reinstall it when my new chain wears out. Thanks for your input. I was wondering what that chatter is all about. I thought maybe the cheap chain would be it. Maybe the rear cushes being too soft I don't know. Might as well change it out. A gold chain looks a lot prettier than the stock one. Maybe do a standard O-Ring chain since the o-rings cushion a bit more? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shinyribs Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 I don't think there will be any difference in chatter between x ring, o ring or even an unsealed chain. I believe it's the outer rollers bouncing/chattering, not the pins where the o/x rings live. Jmo. If budget allows I would use an x ring. I've experimented with unsealed/non-oring vs oring on a bike in the past and the difference was massive. An unsealed chain frees up a TON of rolling resistance. If I didn't live on a gravel road I wouldn't run a sealed chain at all. But if I am going to go sealed, I'll use an xring if possible. Just my two cents on the topic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atxjax Posted January 25, 2018 Author Share Posted January 25, 2018 Any opinion on the RK chains? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 The question you need to answer for yourself - is the chain staying in adjustment? If it is, I would suggest a different lube (maybe even just try gear oil instead of sticky spray-on lubes), but save yer money as the chain is not done yet. You really need to look carefully at both sprockets - (especially the front as it will wear faster than the rear) before deciding to forego sprockets. If the teeth are showing wear - no longer symmetric from front to back, you will kill a new chain way faster than need be. That 525 Gold X-Ring is what I have on my Aprilia - it's gone over 10k miles and is now finally in need of its 1st adjustment. That bike is 130 lbs heavier and makes 50% more power so that chain has worked a bit harder. it'll last a long time off the wee FZ. You will need a tool to use the riveted master link - but those tools make popping the old chain apart a snap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shinyribs Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 1 hour ago, atxjax said: Any opinion on the RK chains? I gave a buddy an RK chain for Christmas one time. He put it on a 750 Hondamatic. About a 520lb bike with 45 hp and tq. It's at 35k miles and counting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1limited Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 1 hour ago, rick said: The question you need to answer for yourself - is the chain staying in adjustment? If it is, I would suggest a different lube (maybe even just try gear oil instead of sticky spray-on lubes), but save yer money as the chain is not done yet. You really need to look carefully at both sprockets - (especially the front as it will wear faster than the rear) before deciding to forego sprockets. If the teeth are showing wear - no longer symmetric from front to back, you will kill a new chain way faster than need be. That 525 Gold X-Ring is what I have on my Aprilia - it's gone over 10k miles and is now finally in need of its 1st adjustment. That bike is 130 lbs heavier and makes 50% more power so that chain has worked a bit harder. it'll last a long time off the wee FZ. You will need a tool to use the riveted master link - but those tools make popping the old chain apart a snap. ^^This^^ Only will add all chains are not the same, chain tinsel strength is key, you need to understand what your are looking for what rating and how to keep it clean, lubed and adjusted for long term use. The chain along with your rear tire is a marriage in maintenance NEVER ABUSE IT. RK, Diamond, DID all of the prime makers are the go to chains as long as it is rated at your application aka Bike. Stock sprockets are shet, kaakaa, donky fodder, monkey doodoo etc etc etc. Maintained they will survive a season or to of hard riding, maintained they will last a while longer for the average rider. NOT MAINTAINED any chain will self destruct in time. As an example I have a Vortex steel sprocket on my R1 with a vortex steel counter running a RK GB520SO rating at 8,500 pounds per feet tensile strength. I keep it meticulously clean and lubed (I use strickly AMSOIL HD) I did the 520 conversion some 5 plus years and the chain is showing no signs of stress. Sprockets are equal in maintenance and no bends, warps or cracks. Moral of the story, if your chain is making noise out side of normal chances are what Rick stated above is the truth “Laws that forbid the carrying of arms disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes.” --Thomas Jefferson quoting Cesare Beccaria Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member DewMan Posted January 26, 2018 Premium Member Share Posted January 26, 2018 I've never had or seen issues with either DID or RK chains. Both are reputable brands. Unless your sprockets are practically new and show zero wear, especially the front sprocket, I'd be hard pressed to not replace them along with the chain to prevent the "worn" sprockets from prematurely wearing out the new chain. In the long run changing them out as a set would most likely be cheaper. 520 vs 525? You can't really go wrong with either if you're buying a quality brand. You'll save a little weight if you go with a 520 chain but you'll definitely need matching sprockets if you change from the factory 525. Best of luck in whichever way you decide to go. DewMan Just shut up and ride. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atxjax Posted January 31, 2018 Author Share Posted January 31, 2018 Picked up a RK chain locally from someone on Craigslist for $75 still in the box new. Then I got a cheaper chain tool on Amazon for $20. I'm in for less than $100 plus my time. I will grind down the rivets on a link and push them out with the tool as to not stress the tool too much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattybags Posted March 21, 2018 Share Posted March 21, 2018 So for the sprockets..... OEM sprockets are 43T in the rear and 16 in the front? What are the best brands for sprockets? JT? Ultralite? My internet sleuthing leads me to believe that X-ring chains are more efficient at transferring power to the wheel... and they last longer.... is this true? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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