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yamahazaki

How many of you use manual spec torque on oil drain bolt?

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yamahazaki

31ft lb?

 

I ask because this is the 4th time I have changed the oil, been torquing it to 31ft lb as usual (with a new bolt gasket every time).  After a ride I notice the first time in 3 years oil spots under the fz07.  I feel around and there is oil under the drain bolt.  I figure since I am using an aftermarket mag bolt, I should drain the oil and put the oem bolt back on, but it turns out the oil pan is cracked.

 

I'm just curious if any of you guys use less torque, like 15ft lb on it because now I have to freaking buy a new oil pan and pan gasket for 75-85 something dollars and was thinking of not torquing (the drain bolt) to spec from now on.

 

Who knows, it could have been just one of those things... but still, alot of people were always suspicious of the high torque value on that bolt.

Edited by yamahazaki

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jmacas87

I know a lot of guys including me just snug up the bolt. Then give it a touch extra oomph, like an 1/8 turn or so more. 

Some call it hand tight then a bit more.... Been doing this forever on all of my vehicles. Never lost a bolt or cracked a pan. 

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r1limited

I use torque spec as well as Teflon tape + new crush washer each time.

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detectivedan

i feel that the torque spec for the drain bolt is a little excessive. i usually just german torque it (gootentight)

  • Haha 1

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blackout

I torque by feel and always use a new Yamaha crush washer.  I wish they made a torque wrench with a shorter handle, then you could better feel what you were doing at the same time.  Years ago I broke a head stud because the torque wrench was faulty.

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c0al67

I just tighten it till its snug then give it another 1/8th or so.

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Mr.Puss

IMO the factory torque is far too hard-core. The initial factory torque on mine was absolutely ridiculous, I gave it all I had and when it finally let loose I was sure I cracked the damn pan too, luckily it wasnt.

Its not the bloody space shuttle, although the factory spec oil bolt and its home would be the ONLY pieces of this bike left assembled after the rest of the bike completely disintegrated during reentry.

 

I do the same as what @ c0al67 does, hand snug + a 1/8 or so snug up with the ratchet. I've done it this way on every vehicle Ive ever owned and never had any issues.

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markstertt

Same here, snug it by feel but not close to 31 ft. lbs., but mine is also safety wired. Never leaked and not always had a new washer either. Factory spec seems excessive here and in some other locations.

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norcal616

I dont... gotta remember any type of fluid on the bolt or washer will actually take more force needed to reach the torque spec compared to a dry bolt and washer...

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rick

I'm also using a magnetic drain plug (think it came out of an old BMW gearbox) with crush washers bought from fleebay - no leaks.

 

Drain plugs with crush washers are one of the few places I'll just do by feel. Crush the washer until the wrench stops - done. I've also been know to reuse crush washers as I don't go gorilla on 'em.

 

Radiator drain plugs with crush washers, I'll supplement with a thin layer of anaerobic sealant and just reuse the washer.

 

31 ft-lbs sure sounds like a lot for a drain plug. Are you guys sure it's 31 ft-lbs and not 31 Newton-meters which converts to 22-ish ft-lbs?

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Beemer

I've always just tightened it until it came to a stop and then that extra 1/8 or so extra turn to secure it. Never had one come loose or drip oil.

I'm thinking now there's one assembler (a sadist) at Yamaha that applies the 31 ft.- lbs. onto every screw he can get his hands on just to make us miserable trying to get them off.

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mjh937

The manual says 43Nm.  That seems like too much and a lot more torque then I am using.  I use the snug and about a 1/8 turn method.  So far it has worked well. 

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michigan400

I just clean it up good and make sure it's nice and snug. It's a good size fastener so you would really have to put the beans to it to damage the threads.

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