Project FZ Supertwin

[cyow5]

On 11/17/2017 at 5:31 PM, blackout said:

I decided to just use two left hand stock air box velocity stacks to build my cold air intake.  My filter setup for this box will be a little unique, but should work just fine.  With the stock length stacks there is no room for a good filter inside the box, so an open filter will be installed up front in the fairing.  Well that is the current plan anyways.

That looks like you'll lower the torque curve more than you want; what are your thoughts? 

[blackout]

20 minutes ago, cyow5 said:

That looks like you'll lower the torque curve more than you want; what are your thoughts? 

The torque curve should be the same as stock since they are the stock length.  But yes, I would like the stacks a little shorter, but have yet to find any that will fit easy.  So far, this is the easiest route to build a cold air intake box.

Edited November 27, 2017 by blackout

[cyow5]

 

Can you just cut out the boxed section and re-adhere the two remaining pieces? Looks like it should take well to a silicone epoxy or something like that. I mean, how hard can it be? haha

[blackout]

22 minutes ago, cyow5 said:

 

Can you just cut out the boxed section and re-adhere the two remaining pieces? Looks like it should take well to a silicone epoxy or something like that. I mean, how hard can it be? haha

I have thought of cutting and splicing it like you show, but by using thin wall tubing to reconnect the two pieces.

 

What does need to be remembered when designing the air box is that anything that falls apart in the air box can be sucked into the engine.  For that reason, I would be hesitant to using a glue as a small chunk could be injested. 

Edited November 27, 2017 by blackout

[blackout]

This photo shows the plumb used to check that the fairing is centered.

[mossrider]

Dude! You're Killin all of us eyeball engineers with your scientific methodology. Holy MOG!

 

Square? Level? Plumb? Actual measurements? Ey-yie-yie, love it but you're making me feel like the inadequate hack that I am, lol.

 

☺

[blackout]

11 minutes ago, mossrider said:

Dude! You're Killin all of us eyeball engineers with your scientific methodology. Holy MOG!

 

Square? Level? Plumb? Actual measurements? Ey-yie-yie, love it but you're making me feel like the inadequate hack that I am, lol.

 

LOL!   I tried eye-balling the lower fairing, but could not get a good view of the rear, so came up with this idea.  But the front is pretty easy to eye-ball.

[sorkyah]

Eyeballing is for the weeeak

 

Taking 2 hours to measure and perfect everything vs the 15 mins of eyeballing it.....

Feels like a damned chimichanga

[Nevets]

On 11/26/2017 at 6:37 PM, blackout said:

The lower fairing is mounted.  I shimmed a length of steel square tubing under the tires to help align the fairing side to side and measure ground clearance.  Ground clearance is 5.375" in the front and 5.5" in the rear.

 

 

I'm sure you know this, but just in case you forgot. In this picture, you have the steel touching both tires to check ground clearance, but the rear suspension is loaded with the weight of the bike, while the front suspension is fully extended because of the head tree stand you're using.

 

If you don't account for this, your beautiful level ground clearance will be all askew once you take the bike off the stands.

 

I'm hoping you already thought of this.

[blackout]

5 hours ago, Nevets said:

I'm sure you know this, but just in case you forgot. In this picture, you have the steel touching both tires to check ground clearance, but the rear suspension is loaded with the weight of the bike, while the front suspension is fully extended because of the head tree stand you're using.

 

If you don't account for this, your beautiful level ground clearance will be all askew once you take the bike off the stands.

 

I'm hoping you already thought of this.

Yup, the rear should be at full droop.  I pulled up on the tail and the suspension is at full droop.  There is hardly any rear sag with no rider plus the few parts pulled from the bike.

[sansnombre]

Interesting.

 

If you have access to 3D modeling software and a printer, you actually could easily create a nicely shaped velocity stack that attaches over the end of a cutdown section of these lengths. Basically, mid-way between the ribs nearer the carbs, cut them circumferentially, then you have a length of pipe where the wall thickness is uniform. You could design your stacks to go on the outside of these lengths while aligning the internal walls, and attach with something appropriate. You also could have them externally connected, attached on the outside of the stack so they are more stable - could also have another length go to a stable location that allows the entire kit to bolt up.

 

I did some analysis a while back on stacks on this bike, and there was a gain to be had via larger bells and appropriately designed velocity stacks. I would have done it to my bike, but the airbox makes that proposition nearly impossible, at least very difficult. But yours are wide open, so the benefits can be had quite easily.

 

Give it some thought.

[blackout]

3 hours ago, sansnombre said:

Interesting.

 

If you have access to 3D modeling software and a printer, you actually could easily create a nicely shaped velocity stack that attaches over the end of a cutdown section of these lengths. Basically, mid-way between the ribs nearer the carbs, cut them circumferentially, then you have a length of pipe where the wall thickness is uniform. You could design your stacks to go on the outside of these lengths while aligning the internal walls, and attach with something appropriate. You also could have them externally connected, attached on the outside of the stack so they are more stable - could also have another length go to a stable location that allows the entire kit to bolt up.

 

I did some analysis a while back on stacks on this bike, and there was a gain to be had via larger bells and appropriately designed velocity stacks. I would have done it to my bike, but the airbox makes that proposition nearly impossible, at least very difficult. But yours are wide open, so the benefits can be had quite easily.

 

Give it some thought.

Good input, thanks.

 

My son has access to 3D modeling software and a printer through his high school.  But I might mold some stacks to clamp on from carbon fiber.  What ever I decide to do, it won't affect the general air box design so I have time to think about it.

 

What sucks the most is I'm stuck inside with a bad cold and not working on the bike this weekend.

[blackout]

When first fitting the upper fairing, the rectifier was clearly too high, so I made this bracket to lower it 1.25"  I'll soon see if that does the trick or not.  It's 1/4" aluminum cut with hand tools.  The lower holes are threaded.

 

Edited December 11, 2017 by blackout

[blackout]

A cool paper weight or a mold for some carbon fiber velocity stacks.

[DewMan]

2 hours ago, blackout said:

A cool paper weight or a mold for some carbon fiber velocity stacks.

MMMMMMM Peanut M&Ms 😍

[blackout]

So far, so good.

[blackout]

I cut and sanded the extra carbon off.  There are some air pockets that never filled with epoxy during the mold process.  I'll need to fix these so the inside is nice and smooth.

[manu421]

Beautiful job! Nice to see carbon being used at home!

[bornagainbiker]

9 hours ago, blackout said:

I cut and sanded the extra carbon off.  There are some air pockets that never filled with epoxy during the mold process.  I'll need to fix these so the inside is nice and smooth.

Your dedication to detail is impressive. 

[gregjet]

Rather than wrap, lay the inside layers parallel to the long axis then wrap. Then wrap the outside. It doesn't lift the carbon as much when you put tension on it.

OR make a fibreglass mould over the outside and press it over the carbon when you cast the actual workpiece. Carbon is notorious for airbubbles in moulds as it is so hard to wet properly and doesn't carry much resin. I suspect you probably know this, but for those watching at home it may be of use to know.

BTW if you decide to make another here is an article they may help you design the next mould. http://www.profblairandassociates.com/pdfs/RET_Bellmouth_Sept.pdf.   

It lends itself to this sort of manufacture very nicely.

[blackout]

Front fairing stay is done for the most part.  Need to work on how to attach the rear part of the upper fairing now.  The side fairings are still off.  They will attach to the upper and lower fairings directly, not the frame.  The side fairings will need to be lengthened since the upper fairing is higher than on the R6 to clear the higher handle bars that I am running.

[mossrider]

Just now, blackout said:

Front fairing stay is done for the most part.  Need to work on how to attach the rear part of the upper fairing now.  The side fairings are still off.  They will attach to the upper and lower fairings directly, not the frame.  The side fairings will need to be lengthened since the upper fairing is higher than on the R6 to clear the higher handle bars that I am running.

Cut those 'ears' of the upper and let er buck! Love that half nekid look.

[blackout]

I started lengthening the right fairing side.  Foam was a quick way to mold the correct shape.  A coat of mold release wax kept the epoxy resin from adhearing to the foam.  I still need to use some epoxy filler to smooth the surface.

[blackout]

I decided to maximize the ground clearance, so I needed to cut a clearance hole for the water pump.  I'll glass a bubble over the clearance hole.  Ground clearance is now 5.75" at full droop.  So around 4.5" with rider on board.

[shinyribs]

Awesome project, man. I've seen the thread pop up a few times but never sat and really looked at it. All caught up now. 

 

Keep building!