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Project FZ Supertwin

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blackout

 

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I started my winter project a little early this year.  

 

My head fairing is off and I will be installing 2017 R6 upper and lower race fairings from Hot Bodies Racing.  Tank and tail will remain mostly stock.  The main reason for leaving the tail stock is for the integrated tail light that looks so good and is needed for street duty.  While the bike will be tracked more next year, it will also need to be street legal.  

 

I plan to design and fabricate a cold air intake system utilizing the R6 front air intake hole.  Most likely a new air box will be fabricated.

 

A new fairing stay will be fabricated and I will move the instrument pod onto the stay this time.

 

This will be a slow moving thread as I will post as I progress.  You guys may witness some failures along the way, but that's part of the fun!  lol  The body work should arrive in 3 weeks.

 

Here is a link to last winter's mods....  

 

  

Edited by blackout
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stickshift

Sounds good, though I would question the work involved in designing a custom intake & airbox when you could just go down the proven route of a hordpower intake.

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blackout
13 minutes ago, stickshift said:

Sounds good, though I would question the work involved in designing a custom intake & airbox when you could just go down the proven route of a hordpower intake.

Very true.  But we have long winters here. :)

 

What I do is hard to explain, but I always need winter projects or my head will explode. lol

 

Many years ago, I built a custom Shelby Cobra replica from the ground up, even though I had a perfectly good FFR Cobra already in my garage.  Custom frame, suspension, spindles, brake setup,...   Raced it for 8 years.  

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blackout

I'm lucky to have access to a small milling machine at work.  I machined a new steering head saddle for the fairing stay.  My first design was not strong enough, it fatigue failed after 4,000 miles.  This one will be better.

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Cruizin

Im looking forward to your build. This will be a good thread.

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blackout

This should provide a strong attachment point for the fairing stay.

1014171657.jpg

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blackout

A side view.  The rear collar is a standard 1.9375" aluminum collar from McMaster-Carr.  The front I made from 1 inch thick 6061 bar.

1014171658.jpg

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blackout

A little more progress on the stay.

1017170913.jpg

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blackout

I have the steering damper angled down to give more room for the throttle cables.  The cables move around a bit from lock to lock.

1017170914.jpg

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blackout

Body work came in earlier than expected.  Decided to size up the lower fairing first.  Kickstand clearance looks good.  Cutouts for the R6 engine will be filled in and the width looks pretty good so far.  The R6 engine is only 1.375" wider than the FZ07 engine.

1017172037.jpg

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stickshift

Looking great, good work.

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blackout

Front view.  I need to cut clearance where the shifter is to lift the fairing higher and fill in the R6 engine cutout on this side too.  Filling the cutouts should be easy with fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin.  I use epoxy resin because it is compatible with polyester resin as well as epoxy resin, so no need to worry about what Hotbodies used.

 

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Edited by blackout

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blackout

I raised the lower fairing as much as possible.  The only part that I cut is shown in the pictures below.  This was clearance for the brake pedal.  It looks like I'll have about 5.5" of ground clearance.  That sounds about right.

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blackout

Kickstand fits perfect.  Nothing to mod there.  I have 4 mounting points figured out and will reinforce those areas with carbon fiber cloth.  I ended up using none of the R6 locations, so those will get filled in.

1021172050-1.jpg

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blackout

I cut the R6 attachment nub and sanded flat with a dremel.  Once sanded, clean with a fiberglass solvent and tape the outside. 

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blackout

Added epoxy resin onto the taped hole.  I added small pieces of carbon fiber to fill the hole.  Then one piece of cloth on top.  Add more resin on top till saturated.  The epoxy dries in 12 hours or so and then the tape removes easily on the outside surface.

1025171213-1.jpg

1025171214-1.jpg

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markstertt

You may know this already but if not, get yourself a roll of peel ply and make it your final cover over cloth patches and wet it out. When the resin has cured the peel ply easily peels off leaving the cut edges of glass nice and layed down and the surface smooth.

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blackout
On 10/31/2017 at 3:53 PM, markstertt said:

You may know this already but if not, get yourself a roll of peel ply and make it your final cover over cloth patches and wet it out. When the resin has cured the peel ply easily peels off leaving the cut edges of glass nice and layed down and the surface smooth.

I did not know.  Thanks!  I will look into that.

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blackout

It's time to start thinking about a cold air intake box.  The current plan is to use velocity stacks from a 2009 gsxr 600.  They come in two lengths to try.

1105171918.jpg

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blackout

Mounting points are reinforced with carbon fiber.  The R6 side case clearance holes are sheeted over with carbon fiber.  I still need to sand edges smooth.

 

Gsxr 600 air box velocity stacks will be here Monday.  If they fit I will be stoked.  I found a K and N filter that should work good for the cold air box.  It's off a Kawasaki 750 twin from the late 70's.  Over twice the surface area of the FZ07 filter.

1109172010.jpg

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blackout

GSXR 600 air box velocity stacks are a NO GO.  The ebay seller measured them at 46 mm, but they are 49mm inside diameter.  Oh well, back to the drawing board.  

1113172002-1.jpg

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blackout

I decided to just use two left hand stock air box velocity stacks to build my cold air intake.  My filter setup for this box will be a little unique, but should work just fine.  With the stock length stacks there is no room for a good filter inside the box, so an open filter will be installed up front in the fairing.  Well that is the current plan anyways.

1117171726.jpg

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markstertt
On ‎11‎/‎1‎/‎2017 at 2:14 PM, blackout said:

I did not know.  Thanks!  I will look into that.

Sorry I didn't get back to this, I get my peel ply from Aircraft Spruce in SoCal but with internet it's probably not the only place. The material comes in different widths rolls but cuts with scissors (like 2" or 3", just guessing), you'll never have those sharp pointy ends sticking up, makes for clean layups, patches and easier sanding, finishing. A roll seems to last forever too.

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blackout

The lower fairing is mounted.  I shimmed a length of steel square tubing under the tires to help align the fairing side to side and measure ground clearance.  Ground clearance is 5.375" in the front and 5.5" in the rear.

 

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Edited by blackout
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blackout

Close ups of how the front is attached and the left attachment point for the rear.

 

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Edited by blackout
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