stev74 Posted October 22, 2017 Author Share Posted October 22, 2017 lol. You can demount the tach. The bike works great without it too. You will safe some weight and gain a bit reaction time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemer Posted October 22, 2017 Share Posted October 22, 2017 On 10/20/2017 at 7:33 AM, stev74 said: Good idea., thx Beemer! The handlebar could be the antenna. I will try that because the length (or width) from the handlebar is nearly perfect. If you put a antenna inside the handlebar this would block the signal completely. Its like a shielded cable...but the handlebar itself could be the antenna. *excited* Will let you know how it works. Any time I can affect someones endogenous opioid neuropeptides it's a good day. 😀 Please, let me know how it works. (Fingers crossed.) Beemer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faffi Posted October 22, 2017 Share Posted October 22, 2017 In case you need some technical tips 😁 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregjet Posted October 22, 2017 Share Posted October 22, 2017 Ballasted antenna? Loop antenna in the back seat? Use a cable for you ear speakers as an antenna ( or co located in the wire set). Around the radiator . Loop on the front mudguard? BTW what was the source of your FM noise. Was it the Power supply. Did you rf dampen it ( cap/inductor) initially? Beemer.The handlebar would act as a faraday cage and no signal will get through. Go forth and modify my son...go forth and modify... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stev74 Posted October 23, 2017 Author Share Posted October 23, 2017 The source of the FM noise was the step down converter. It was placed too close to the FM Receiver IC. On the new PCBs I moved them more far away and also added some Ferrite Beads. Its gone now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemer Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 16 hours ago, gregjet said: Ballasted antenna? Loop antenna in the back seat? Use a cable for you ear speakers as an antenna ( or co located in the wire set). Around the radiator . Loop on the front mudguard? BTW what was the source of your FM noise. Was it the Power supply. Did you rf dampen it ( cap/inductor) initially? Beemer.The handlebar would act as a faraday cage and no signal will get through. That's what I thought also, thx! Beemer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregjet Posted October 24, 2017 Share Posted October 24, 2017 Had another thought about the aeriel. What a a sharkfin antenna on the front over the headlight. It would even mount on the front of a air dirverter or a screen and be about as far away from engine interference as it could be. Even right back on the rear. http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Universal-Shark-Fin-Aerial/355291 Pretty much goes with the bike sytling as well. Heaps of different shapes to choose from as well Go forth and modify my son...go forth and modify... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Global Moderator sorkyah Posted October 24, 2017 Global Moderator Share Posted October 24, 2017 On 10/19/2017 at 3:07 AM, stev74 said: thanks a lot sorkah for that tip. Maybe I will try it one more time with the epoxacast 690. The problem with the pointers are that it is so thin that it is bending when its more warm. In room temperature it was good. I tried a bunch of them an all had the same problem. I tried also an epoxy resin but from another manufacturer....and it was the same. Yes maybe an oven would help a lot. Never tried it with an oven. The problem is, even if its working...its getting too complicated for a simple pointer what costs normally 3$. ...and I would need so much time for just 2 small pointers. Unfortunately I couldn't find a ponter for 3$ what fits perfect. But till now the best soltion is, buying a 3$ pointer and modify it till it fits. This project is really much more complicated than expected. So many small problems. Another thing you could try... (i know you have the molds made already) make the pointers more of a triangular or oval cross section the triangular would be preferred... because physics ATGATT... ATTATT, two acronyms I live by. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stev74 Posted October 25, 2017 Author Share Posted October 25, 2017 "make the pointers more of a triangular or oval cross section" I'm afraid my english is too bad for such a sophisticated sentence. lol What do you mean? Like the BMW?. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stev74 Posted November 24, 2017 Author Share Posted November 24, 2017 short update: At the moment I'm working on some final case parts of the cockpit. Some detailwork but I think it looks not bad. Isn't it? This red one will be for the MotoCage of my wife I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowGroove Posted November 24, 2017 Share Posted November 24, 2017 Sharp! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phanomenal07 Posted November 24, 2017 Share Posted November 24, 2017 4 hours ago, stev74 said: short update: At the moment I'm working on some final case parts of the cockpit. Some detailwork but I think it looks not bad. Isn't it? This red one will be for the MotoCage of my wife I think. Wow that looks awesome. Are you selling these? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grip it & Rip it Posted November 24, 2017 Share Posted November 24, 2017 Sweet!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sansnombre Posted November 24, 2017 Share Posted November 24, 2017 For a "home project" this is phenomenal. Outstanding work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Global Moderator sorkyah Posted November 25, 2017 Global Moderator Share Posted November 25, 2017 On 10/25/2017 at 8:45 AM, stev74 said: "make the pointers more of a triangular or oval cross section" I'm afraid my english is too bad for such a sophisticated sentence. lol What do you mean? Like the BMW?. Not the overall shape, Imagine staring at the needle from the tip looking towards the mount hole. cutting the needle length in half between the mount point and the needle tip. That would be the cross section. If you made that cross section triangular in shape it would be more stable due to the physics of a triangle as well as the thicker bottom supporting the weight ATGATT... ATTATT, two acronyms I live by. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stev74 Posted November 25, 2017 Author Share Posted November 25, 2017 Thank you very much guys!!! 13 hours ago, phanomenal07 said: Wow that looks awesome. Are you selling these? We will see. I'm not entirely sure if its possible. There are several possibilities in my mind right now. First I'll offer it to some small motorcycle manufactures and custom bike workshops. If this will fail I could make a few pieces for some freaks I guess. Right now every part is handmade and needs too much time for making lots of them. But anyway I learned so much with this project. I guess in some years, when 3d printers are faster and more accurate (and a bit cheaper), this would all be a lot easier. 53 minutes ago, sorkyah said: Not the overall shape, Imagine staring at the needle from the tip looking towards the mount hole. cutting the needle length in half between the mount point and the needle tip. That would be the cross section. If you made that cross section triangular in shape it would be more stable due to the physics of a triangle as well as the thicker bottom supporting the weight Ah I understand. It was related to the casting and the bending caused by heat. Maybe it would work with the resin you told me. I found another solution. I use now a pointer from a ford mustang I think....not so expensive but very good quality. I cut the needle, sand and polish it and make my own needle-cap. Before I used a needle from an Audi A8...was very good quality too but the Mustang needle I like even more. Its a good idea with ths triangular shape but keep in mind you have to balance it. So if you add weight to the needle you maybe need a bigger cap to house the counterweight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Global Moderator sorkyah Posted November 25, 2017 Global Moderator Share Posted November 25, 2017 9 hours ago, stev74 said: Thank you very much guys!!! We will see. I'm not entirely sure if its possible. There are several possibilities in my mind right now. First I'll offer it to some small motorcycle manufactures and custom bike workshops. If this will fail I could make a few pieces for some freaks I guess. Right now every part is handmade and needs too much time for making lots of them. But anyway I learned so much with this project. I guess in some years, when 3d printers are faster and more accurate (and a bit cheaper), this would all be a lot easier. Ah I understand. It was related to the casting and the bending caused by heat. Maybe it would work with the resin you told me. I found another solution. I use now a pointer from a ford mustang I think....not so expensive but very good quality. I cut the needle, sand and polish it and make my own needle-cap. Before I used a needle from an Audi A8...was very good quality too but the Mustang needle I like even more. Its a good idea with ths triangular shape but keep in mind you have to balance it. So if you add weight to the needle you maybe need a bigger cap to house the counterweight. Sweet Again if you want to sell off a kit... i have a 3d printer and would even go so far as molding/casting the housing/lenses to show off the awesomeness inside And for 3d printer kits the TEVO line is pretty inexpensive and a good starter ATGATT... ATTATT, two acronyms I live by. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stev74 Posted November 25, 2017 Author Share Posted November 25, 2017 ah yes making a kit could be an option too. I already have a 3d-printer (Zortrax M200). Without it this project would be completely impossible. What I wanted to say is that it would be cool if you could print "production like" parts what you can use without post-machining. ...in some years maybe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Global Moderator sorkyah Posted November 26, 2017 Global Moderator Share Posted November 26, 2017 Depending on the printer... Some of the formlabs Resin printers have insane resolution... 10 microns(±4) but cost is horrid... Zortrax makes a damned good printer but the proprietary filament is a bitch It all comes down to print time that you're willing to accept, and how much money you have ATGATT... ATTATT, two acronyms I live by. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stev74 Posted November 26, 2017 Author Share Posted November 26, 2017 From my experience you always have to sand afterwards, even the formlabs parts. I use sometimes SLA printed parts for making the "masterform" what I then mold/cast. (3dhubs is a cool tool for that) For making a prototype its awesome but for producing something its not working. Not to mention that the case of the cockpit for example woudln't even fit into a formlabs 2 printer. And even if it would...it would print forever. I saw some time ago that HP is selling a new 3d printer technique what is much faster. I think they cost about 100.000 or more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faffi Posted November 26, 2017 Share Posted November 26, 2017 I think the best thing would be to vacuum form it for limited mass production. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stev74 Posted November 26, 2017 Author Share Posted November 26, 2017 28 minutes ago, faffi said: I think the best thing would be to vacuum form it for limited mass production. I'm afraid this is not working for a cockpit case. The outside shape is not the same like the inside shape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faffi Posted November 26, 2017 Share Posted November 26, 2017 Ah! Thank you for clarifying. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Global Moderator sorkyah Posted November 26, 2017 Global Moderator Share Posted November 26, 2017 4 hours ago, stev74 said: I'm afraid this is not working for a cockpit case. The outside shape is not the same like the inside shape. What about vaccum forming the outside and then 3d printing the interior support structure ATGATT... ATTATT, two acronyms I live by. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stev74 Posted November 27, 2017 Author Share Posted November 27, 2017 16 hours ago, sorkyah said: What about vaccum forming the outside and then 3d printing the interior support structure Interesting idea. But then you have one working-step more and you still have the slow 3d printing for the inside? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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