Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
shinyribs

Oil consumption?

Recommended Posts

shinyribs

Just curious what kind of oil consumption other people saw when their bike was new/breaking in. 

 

I'm only at 1270 miles and the bike used half a quart of oil over the past 1,000 miles. I expect some oil usage as the rings seat, but at this rate you'd starve the engine of oil between changes. 

 

Since I'm sure it will be asked, I'm using conventional Rotella oil and I broke the engine in by using the bike how I ride- I didn't baby it, but I didn't wrong it's neck either. Spirited riding in the twisties, first oil change at 100 miles and another at 200 miles. No greasy tail pipe or air box. No sign of oil smoke on accel or decel. 

 

Thoughts? Am I just paranoid?

 

This thing is currently using more oil than my old KLR 650 lol. I didn't think that was possible....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
mjh937

I have never needed to add oil between changes.  I did a similar break in as you, changed the oil at 600 miles and then switched to synthetic at 2,000 miles.  I change it at 4,000 Mike intervals now.  It seems like your consumption is excessive.  

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
rick

t

2 hours ago, shinyribs said:

 

 

I'm only at 1270 miles and the bike used half a quart of oil over the past 1,000 miles. I expect some oil usage as the rings seat, but at this rate you'd starve the engine of oil between changes. 

 

 

The rotella's are quality oils, but you should consider going back to a std. "motorcycle" specific oil for your next change. Can't recall anyone talking about oil consumption with this motor and there are some guys who have cranked up some serious miles.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Cruizin

Rotella t6 is used by bikers all over the world with great results. It has all the properties of a motorcycle oil and I put it in every engine that I own. Go on any bike forum on the net and do a search for Rotella. It's great oil, and cheap when you buy at Walmart. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
shinyribs

Thanks guys, for the input.

 

Rick, I'm curious why you say to use a motorcycle specific oil. Not being argumentative or defensive at all, honestly just curious of your reasoning/experience in case you know something I don't ( which is highly likely!). 

 

I did pick up a gallon of Honda GN4 today. That's the only motorcycle specific oil I've ever bought. I use it in my xr400 since it's air cooled and gets thrashed in tight single track/enduro/ harescrambles. I've never tried Rotella's T6 as I can get GN4 local for $18/gallon, so just slightly more expensive than conventional Rotella. I've had great luck with GN4 so far.

 

When I got home I immediately drained the Rotella ( odo now at 1376) and it was horribly watery. It really looked beat. Popped on a new Yamaha filler ( for sake of laziness and not wanting to cross through town in rush hour to save $5 ) and put in the GN4. I'll see how this goes, but I can say that with an already hot engine that the new oil did not make any difference in quietening down what I think are very noisy valves. 

 

Worth mentioning, I talked to the service manager while I was picking up oil and mentioned my noisy valves. He offered to take a listen and pretty much said " yeah, they're noisy. Seems typical for these bikes. We've yet to measure one yet to see if they're out of spec or not, but they've all been noisy like that". I graciously offered up my bike to be a guinea pig to be measured, but he politely refused to waive the $250+ valve inspection/adjustment fee they charge for the sake of science.....it was worth a shot! We talked a little more and I mentioned some of my older Honda's. He told me it "wasn't fair to compare the engine noise on this Yamaha to my Honda's because... well, it's not a Honda." I thought that was an interesting comment...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
blackout

I have not noticed any oil consumption over the 9,300 miles on my bike.  I change the oil every 2,000 miles and have never needed to add any oil in between changes.  I use Motul 10w-40.  What weight are you using?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
r1limited

NOt all oils are the same well duh.  That said Motor cycle specific in todays world is really wet clutch bikes, some additives will cause the clutch to slip and doesn not protect the clutch and other components.  This aint the 70s were you can toss a 30 or 40 wt in the bike.  I have no oil loss at all I run AMSOIL metric 10-40 always have always will.  Oil loss could be there is to much and your blowing it out the blow hole or something else is not right and its blow by (Rings)  Pull the plugs get a good read on them.  Personally I wont use Rottella, just because it sounds like something you buy for the garden to spray on bugs

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
norcal616

How do you know it's a half quart less oil? 

  • Confused 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Beemer

Wow, a quart?! I didn't burn any during break in or the last 21,000 miles. Never had a bike that burned that much oil either. Just doesn't sound right to me. If it were mine I would use that warranty and have it inspected. GL!

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
shinyribs
4 hours ago, blackout said:

I have not noticed any oil consumption over the 9,300 miles on my bike.  I change the oil every 2,000 miles and have never needed to add any oil in between changes.  I use Motul 10w-40.  What weight are you using?

It was 15w40 conventional Rotella. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
shinyribs
3 hours ago, norcal616 said:

How do you know it's a half quart less oil? 

I wash the bikes every Saturday morning. They get a chain clean/lube and general once over at the same time. I saw the oil was low on the FZ and it took right at half a quart to refill it. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Beemer
8 hours ago, shinyribs said:

I wash the bikes every Saturday morning. They get a chain clean/lube and general once over at the same time. I saw the oil was low on the FZ and it took right at half a quart to refill it. 

I didn't notice in the thread any mention of checking the bike for leaks. I had a messed up oil cap at one time and lost a little oil from that but then again I caught it quick. No leaks underneath, anywhere??? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
r1limited

My buddy one day was filling his Oil injector on his brand new RD.  He poured like 3 quarts in and was asking me how much does this damn thing take.  I said Look at your feet.

 

  • Haha 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
shinyribs
2 hours ago, Beemer said:

I didn't notice in the thread any mention of checking the bike for leaks. I had a messed up oil cap at one time and lost a little oil from that but then again I caught it quick. No leaks underneath, anywhere??? 

No, sir. Dry as a chip! 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
rick

Like a few others that have posted, I'm thinking 1/2 qt of oil in 1000 miles is way too much for this bike. My old R90 BMW used about  that in 3000 miles and those boxer motors were prone to some oil getting past ring end gaps.  If it's not leaking out, it's getting burned. The switch to a motorcycle oil is likely not gonna help, but was just a suggestion.

 

I don't know how the crankcase breather is set up for this bike, but there is likely some plumbing that routes oil vapors into the intake set-up somewhere, maybe the airbox. Not had mine open yet so don't know if any oil accumulates in there. It might be worth a look to see if you have a puddle of oil somewhere due to a faulty breather system. If so, you'll also have some oil burned. Yer not seeing it cause the converter is dealing with it.

 

If that's no evidence of oil anywhere besides the crankcase, then I would have a look at the plugs. They should be darn clean at 1300 miles. Oily or black would be bad.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
norcal616

The stock airbox has a rubber drain cap on kickstand side...totally forgotten about it as I run a different airbox 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
shinyribs

I called the dealership just to give them a heads up on what I was seeing, and so that it would be documented Incase things get worse. I haven't had a chance to look at the plugs yet, but I really want to. I'll gonna to try to make that happen tonight. 

 

I talked to the service manager for a while and he agreed that it was major consumption. Long story short: he's thinking I've inadvertently prolonged the break-in due to changing the oil twice before the 600 miles initial maintenance recommendation. He said to keep b conventional oil in the bike ( was planning to anyway) for at least another 1000-1500 miles and see if it gets better, worse, or no change. If it doesn't self heal, he'll talk to Yamaha. 

 

This is discouraging, but I'm optimistic. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
rick

I think that biz about the oil change is a lot of BS, Maybe that was true 20 or 50 years ago, but keep in mind that many vehicles - bikes and cars - come with full synthetics from mile 0. BMW cars use full synths and have a 1st service at 10k miles. Even Subarus now come with their own branded (and crazy expensive) synth oil.   KTM specifies Motorex synths in their bikes.

 

Most of the bits and break-in spooge that contaminates the oil at break-in is done by 100 miles. These motors come with regular old Yamalube from the factory - there's nothing special about it. I doubt there's any vehicle these days that's filled with some special "break-in oil" from the factory.

 

Most of us (me included) tend to be too dang gentle with breaking in a motor. I've not opened up a lot of motors, but every cylinder I've seen, both mine and others, still had honing hatch marks after loads of miles. Once the rings have a nice polish, those fine scratches are there forever and rob a bit of performance with every stroke.

 

Sounds like you were none too gentle with yours. Whether you could have been a bit more gentle and caused some issue - impossible to know.  I doubt it though. 

 

The air box in my Aprilia will get a nice puddle of oil in it after a year of running hard (lots of throttle slamming shut at high revs) and that box is well above the motor. Pull that drain plug out of the air box - with luck, oil will pour out. If that's the case, then you'll just need to find out why so much is there. That'll be far easier to fix than a ring job.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
shinyribs

Rick, I agree with everything you just said 100%. 

 

 

Funny you mention the oil change internal on some BMW's. I was talking about this the other day with a buddy who is a certified mechanic, and he mentioned BMW's super long oil change interval. He also mentioned that the model in question held about 9qts of oil and that BMW listed acceptable oil consumption as 1-1.5 qts per 1000 miles. lol. No wonder people are starving those turbos of oil...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
rick

If that bmw motor is direct injected, well, they are notorious for oil wash-down and dilution by the raw gas getting shot directly into the cylinders (as opposed to an intake manifold where it gets turned into a vapor 1st)  Audis and VWs were notorious oil consumers for that reason.

 

Lots of BMWs are also leased. BMW made oil changes free on leases a while back cause people would just blow them off - the car wasn't ever gonna belong to them, why care. . They likely made the sump large to get thru those 10k miles.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
mjh937

I know many guys on the forum have done early oil changes with no problems.  I suspect something else is going on, but as long as you keep a close eye on the oil level there is no harm in running it for a while to see what happens.  

 

I would make some notes with the date and time your talked to the service manager, just in case.  I do tend to be a bit paranoid though (which does not mean they are not out to get me...)

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
norcal616

If nothing is dripping, no obvious signs of oil buring, no oil in airbox..it's either your chasing your own mind or the oil lvl looked low when it was on the kick stand rather then held upright to check oil lvl...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
r1limited
2 minutes ago, norcal616 said:

If nothing is dripping, no obvious signs of oil buring, no oil in airbox..it's either your chasing your own mind or the oil lvl looked low when it was on the kick stand rather then held upright to check oil lvl...

I awlays checkl my oil when it is on its side I fill it up till the little glas thingy thing is filled

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
shinyribs
5 hours ago, norcal616 said:

If nothing is dripping, no obvious signs of oil buring, no oil in airbox..it's either your chasing your own mind or the oil lvl looked low when it was on the kick stand rather then held upright to check oil lvl...

The bike was propped up on paddock stands, so it was level and standing up straight. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
r1limited

Sorry but you do not loose 1/2 quart for no reason.  if you see absolutly no oil leaks blow by or oil dripping from crancase hoses, then only two things are plausible

1: Your burning oil and have blown or  cracked a ring or based on what you stated on how you run / break in a motor "blown, cracked or a non seated rings

2: you are mistaken on the amount of oil you placed in it the last oil change.

 

Since there is only one dry area on the maotr being the stator side (Left) I would pull the straight screw plug off that case tilt it over to see if oil is in that case.  If it is you blew a crank seal

 

personally I would change that rotella crap to Amsoil metric 10-40  Just for one oil cycle and replace the filter with a OEM yamaha

I would also pull both plugs and take a very close read on them, if you are blowing oil through the rings you will see it in the plugs

Edited by r1limited

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  


×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.