magdfarid Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 I got the rear axle nut stuck on my Yamaha FZ07. In this video I share with you how I solved this problem. Ride safe. 6 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregjet Posted September 24, 2017 Share Posted September 24, 2017 Very well done Video. Thanks. Good addition to the How to's 1 1 Go forth and modify my son...go forth and modify... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magdfarid Posted September 25, 2017 Author Share Posted September 25, 2017 3 hours ago, gregjet said: Very well done Video. Thanks. Good addition to the How to's Thanks, my pleasure 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member blackout Posted October 14, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted October 14, 2017 Nice video! 1 Craig Mapstone Upstate New York Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member fzar Posted April 6, 2018 Premium Member Share Posted April 6, 2018 Thanks for sharing, good stuff. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member fzar Posted April 7, 2018 Premium Member Share Posted April 7, 2018 So the question I have to ask is: How does somebody go about doing this without damaging the adjustment cap on the right side of the bike? Is it a try and hope you get lucky or is there a way around getting caught up in this debacle?. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted April 7, 2018 Share Posted April 7, 2018 (edited) only thing I can suggest is to make sure the threads outside the nut are clean before you put a wrench on it and maybe lubricate the threads and maybe behind the nut with a bit of penetrating oil to cut down as much friction as possible. You'll want to wipe those parts dry before reassembling as any lube will result in you making the nut too tight. On the plus side, those side plates are pretty cheap if it goes wrong. I've had mine off a couple times w/o damage - it's not an absolute.. Edited April 7, 2018 by rick 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member fzar Posted April 8, 2018 Premium Member Share Posted April 8, 2018 On 4/7/2018 at 10:56 AM, rick said: only thing I can suggest is to make sure the threads outside the nut are clean before you put a wrench on it and maybe lubricate the threads and maybe behind the nut with a bit of penetrating oil to cut down as much friction as possible. You'll want to wipe those parts dry before reassembling as any lube will result in you making the nut too tight. On the plus side, those side plates are pretty cheap if it goes wrong. I've had mine off a couple times w/o damage - it's not an absolute.. Thanks rick, I have r&g rear stand bobbins covering the axle nut. I'll be sure to give it a good looking at and take the necessary precautions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
00RAH Posted November 27, 2020 Share Posted November 27, 2020 gotta say i failed with this axle nut too, i got a nylon locking nut size m18x1.5 (not m18!!) from a local fastener shop the past few months its holding up well. i torqued it to 80nm and put tick marks to see if it spins. its alot cheaper than towing and replacement parts. (can this thread be sticky admins?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoombaDeluxe Posted February 4, 2021 Share Posted February 4, 2021 (edited) On 11/26/2020 at 4:39 PM, 00RAH said: gotta say i failed with this axle nut too, i got a nylon locking nut size m18x1.5 (not m18!!) from a local fastener shop the past few months its holding up well. i torqued it to 80nm and put tick marks to see if it spins. its alot cheaper than towing and replacement parts. (can this thread be sticky admins?) Wait, so the m18 size is correct? Your parenthesis got me confused lol Edited February 4, 2021 by GoombaDeluxe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triple Jim Posted February 4, 2021 Share Posted February 4, 2021 That Gilles titanium nut is 90 bucks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member blackout Posted February 4, 2021 Premium Member Share Posted February 4, 2021 10 hours ago, GoombaDeluxe said: Wait, so the m18 size is correct? Your parenthesis got me confused lol 18mm - 1.5mm pitch is correct for the axle. 18mm nuts are also available in a 2.5mm course pitch, but you don't want that. 1 Craig Mapstone Upstate New York Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klx678 Posted February 4, 2021 Share Posted February 4, 2021 I bought a nyloc nut from Fastenal, M18-1.5 cost a couple bucks, maybe five, I forget. It may have been stainless, again I forget. Key thing if you get stainless - put some anti-sieze on the threads to avoid having the nut sieze to the axle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triple Jim Posted February 4, 2021 Share Posted February 4, 2021 36 minutes ago, klx678 said: Key thing if you get stainless - put some anti-sieze on the threads to avoid having the nut sieze to the axle. Is the axle stainless? The seizing problem happens with stainless on stainless. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member cornerslider Posted February 4, 2021 Premium Member Share Posted February 4, 2021 1 hour ago, Triple Jim said: Is the axle stainless? The seizing problem happens with stainless on stainless. No, it's not stainless.... Anti-seize is a good practice on anything that gets moved frequently (like the rear axle). I was part of a "Group Buy" on this site, and got the Gille's titanium lock nut for like $65? I didn't want to spend the money, but after buying a new axle for $64, and the Gilles lock nut- I'm DONE. No more worries about my axle seizing up. I'll admit even $65 is way to much to spend on a "nut", but it really does solve a well known problem on the FZ/MT-07. 3 ""W.O.T. until you see god, then brake" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triple Jim Posted February 4, 2021 Share Posted February 4, 2021 (edited) I like anti-seize compounds OK, and use them when needed, but I've also had problems with them. For example, with Never-Seez you need to reduce bolt torques about 20% because it's so slippery. I learned this when I was 18 and kept stripping the head bolt threads on a BB Chevy in a boat. I had to Helicoil half of them before I learned! I don't mean to say you're wrong to use it on the axle nut, but I would just use a little oil there. Edited February 4, 2021 by Triple Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klx678 Posted February 5, 2021 Share Posted February 5, 2021 3 hours ago, Triple Jim said: Is the axle stainless? The seizing problem happens with stainless on stainless. If you look it up you will find stainless can seize on steel and even aluminum. Aluminum can have a galvanic reaction causing the problem. Some steels are too similar in hardness which can also cause seizing. So rather than take the risk, it makes sense to put on a dab of anti-seize paste. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triple Jim Posted February 5, 2021 Share Posted February 5, 2021 (edited) Cool. As I said, you're not wrong to use it, I just wouldn't. A little condescending with the "look it up" part though. Apparently we're both in our 60s, so we both have a fairly long life's worth of experiences with this stuff. You use anti-seize on your axle nut and I won't, and I bet neither one of us ever has a problem with it. Edited February 5, 2021 by Triple Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now