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blackout

Custom Clip-on Adapter

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blackout
 
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Just finished this up.  I needed a better handle bar position for tracking my bike.  This has a few benefits over the standard Woodcraft adapter.  One being the bar sweep is adjustable.  Height is adjustable over 3/4 of an inch instead of either real high or real low.  Also, there are holes for easy access to my compression and rebound adjusters.  Thanks for viewing.
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sorkyah
Whats your overall change on these vs stock?

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blackout
Whats your overall change on these vs stock?
Well, I went to drag bars at about 2,000 miles.  So not sure the difference from stock.  I'm at 8,300 miles now.  I'd say my clip-on setup, at it's highest height, is at the same height as the drag bars, but forward an inch or so.  It's hard to measure obviously.  But more importantly, the new bars are swept down unlike the drag bars, and this makes it so much more comfortable moving your body off the bike in a corner.

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gregjet
Beautiful work.
Did you get rid of the rubber triple clamp bushes?
Are the original heavy bar mounts under the cross plate? Cant't see from the photos.

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blackout
Beautiful work. Did you get rid of the rubber triple clamp bushes?
Are the original heavy bar mounts under the cross plate? Cant't see from the photos.
 
 
The original bar mounts are not used. The cross plate bolts directly to the top triple, but I am still using the rubber bushings. Mine feel real stiff still, so figured I would keep using them.

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gregjet
If the plate is contacting the triple clamp it will be pretty much negating the rubber flex.
If not, you obviously have superior machining skills ( sooo much better than mine and my floppy lathe) and turning a pair should be dead easy for you. You will be surprised at the difference. You don't realize how much flop they have until you get rid of it. ESPECIALLY on the track. Remember when you are hanging off them pretty much your whole weight plus cornering force is on them.
If you want I will post a pic of the protos with dimensions that I originally posted ( no comments on the total lack of machining skill exhibited) as the pictures originally posted have gone the way of all photobucket. The originals were turned from 25mm rod so the hat brim step is too small, but the other dimensions are right. The later ones , of which there isn't any pics, were turned from 30mm and sit better.

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blackout
If the plate is contacting the triple clamp it will be pretty much negating the rubber flex. If not, you obviously have superior machining skills ( sooo much better than mine and my floppy lathe) and turning a pair should be dead easy for you. You will be surprised at the difference. You don't realize how much flop they have until you get rid of it. ESPECIALLY on the track. Remember when you are hanging off them pretty much your whole weight plus cornering force is on them.
If you want I will post a pic of the protos with dimensions that I originally posted ( no comments on the total lack of machining skill exhibited) as the pictures originally posted have gone the way of all photobucket. The originals were turned from 25mm rod so the hat brim step is too small, but the other dimensions are right. The later ones , of which there isn't any pics, were turned from 30mm and sit better.
 
 
I'll make them solid over the winter. And my machining skills are not that good at all. I try to keep my weight off the bars in the turns, but that's only because I keep hearing the coaches say that. I'm still learning the art.

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gregjet
The inside bar and outside footpeg get the load ( and not much seat) in a full lean turn ON THE TRACK. If you are riding like that on the road though you will get into trouble sooner or later. Racers complain of arm pump for a reason.
Have you watched the Keith Code "Twist of the Wrist" videos. Well worth a look , especially the second one.
Keeping the weight off the bars in a leaned corner is physically impossible. The vectors just won't add up.
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shinyribs
Very nice surface finish. Clever idea, too! What are the actually clipons you are using, or did you make those, too?
 
I see you already have done what I want to do with my clocks- raised them and hid them behind a screen. Is that screen home made or store bought? Any pics of that from the side/front?
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blackout
I have seen keith code's video, but have been following Lee Parks book Total Control more closely.

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blackout
Very nice surface finish. Clever idea, too! What are the actually clipons you are using, or did you make those, too?
 
 
The clipons are 38mm Woodcraft.

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shinyribs
Very nice surface finish. Clever idea, too! What are the actually clipons you are using, or did you make those, too?
The clipons are 38mm Woodcraft.
 
 
Ah, I see the emblem now.
 
I snuck an exit up above about your windscreen/clocks.

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blackout
Very nice surface finish. Clever idea, too! What are the actually clipons you are using, or did you make those, too? 
I see you already have done what I want to do with my clocks- raised them and hid them behind a screen. Is that screen home made or store bought? Any pics of that from the side/front?
 
 
My head fearing was voted ugliest mod on Facebook a few months ago. Lol
 
But, the heading fairing is home made from carbon fiber. There are pictures on a build thread over on the pictures and video section. It provides the wind protection that I wanted, allows me to move the clock foward, and gives me room for a front mount Ohlins damper.

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fzar
Great work, as far as I can tell from the pictures. I'm looking at a similar set-up myself, with moving the cluster to the same position ,why its where it is stock is beyond me its a total distraction when I have to look down. Your woodcraft clip-ons are what I'm looking at for a more body mass over the front. Where would I get my hands on them, and what mounts did you use to get the cluster below the ignition key?
 

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