Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
ccmtbikerri

Vibration between 5k rpm and 6k

Recommended Posts

ccmtbikerri
I have had a vibration at . 5k originally it was at 4,000 to 4500. Changed exhaust to m4 slip on and power commander 5 . Had frame sliders checked torque on bolts , ok checked some plastic for fit and looseness . And torque on engine bolts and frame . Has anybody ever seen this before . 2015 with 3500 miles . Dealer hasn't seen this yet either.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ralph
Mines smooth at any revs, how about the chain?
or can you feel it with the bike stopped.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
rick
I find mine to be at its buzziest right at 5k. Doesn't get any worse as it climbs higher and usually my mind is somewhere else when on the gas. Sorta consider this a normal downside of a vertical twin. As a parallel twin, would be far worse w/o the counter balancer inside or that 270 degree crank.
 
If you could find a way to quell the vibes in the bars, you might start to feel it in the footpegs or the seat/tank or somewhere else. You'll also find this sorta thing bothers some people more/less than others - even different gloves can change your perception. I had a BMW K-bike years ago that put my hands and feet to sleep it vibrated so much. A buddy of mine had the exact same bike and thought it was smooth as silk.
 
Changing bars made my FZ's bzzz a tad worse, but did not change the RPM zone where it started.
 
 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
norcal616
 
You might be feeling exhaust resonance or the generic fueling of the PCV is not as smooth as it could be
 
 
 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ccmtbikerri
That is kind of where my mind was heading . So thank you. I also realize the tank has a lot of plastic on it so I have some thin sticky foam strips that I can put in between that dealers use for similar problems on cars. Any other ideas are appreciated. Thank you .

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
rick
I seem to remember someone mentioning that the Renthal bars are filled with urethane(?)
 
The bars I put on mine are Emgo "Euro" bars and they are noticeably lighter in weight (thinner steel?) than the OE bars. I'm tempted to try filling the tube with this stuff. It self-levels and sets up to a fairly dense rubber. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Sikaflex-10-fl-oz-Crack-Sealant-427706/203249445
 
Doing this to the OE bars might be a bit trickier due to the threaded plug inside that takes the bar end weights, but the Emgos are just a hollow tube.
 
Oh, speaking of bar end weights - did you check those for tight?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ravenlord
Mine is about the same. I didn't really notice it last year, just this year when I took it out of storage. It hasn't been getting any worse so I've been ignoring it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Beemer
Throw some grip puppies on and see if that helps. If not, at least you will have a softer/better grip for cheap.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
avanti
I notice you didn't say exactly how you are experiencing this "vibration." Most seem to assume through the handle-bars since that is common, but you noted the plastic gas tank a couple times. If you could describe how the sensation manifests for you it might be helpful in understanding what is going on. The fact that it changed when you varied your exhaust suggests resonance of something, potentially less significant than typical, engine-harmonics based, handle-bar buzz.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
elmo
I seem to remember someone mentioning that the Renthal bars are filled with urethane(?)  
The bars I put on mine are Emgo "Euro" bars and they are noticeably lighter in weight (thinner steel?) than the OE bars. I'm tempted to try filling the tube with this stuff. It self-levels and sets up to a fairly dense rubber. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Sikaflex-10-fl-oz-Crack-Sealant-427706/203249445
 
Doing this to the OE bars might be a bit trickier due to the threaded plug inside that takes the bar end weights, but the Emgos are just a hollow tube.
 
Oh, speaking of bar end weights - did you check those for tight?
Used caution with the sikaflex self-leveling product, its used in horizontal concrete cracks or control joints to 3/4-1" max deep, and requires air exposer to cure. Placing inside handlebar would not allow it to cure and could be very messy.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
rick
I seem to remember someone mentioning that the Renthal bars are filled with urethane(?)  
The bars I put on mine are Emgo "Euro" bars and they are noticeably lighter in weight (thinner steel?) than the OE bars. I'm tempted to try filling the tube with this stuff. It self-levels and sets up to a fairly dense rubber. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Sikaflex-10-fl-oz-Crack-Sealant-427706/203249445
 
Doing this to the OE bars might be a bit trickier due to the threaded plug inside that takes the bar end weights, but the Emgos are just a hollow tube.
 
Oh, speaking of bar end weights - did you check those for tight?
Used caution with the sikaflex self-leveling product, its used in horizontal concrete cracks or control joints to 3/4-1" max deep, and requires air exposer to cure. Placing inside handlebar would not allow it to cure and could be very messy.
Thanks, good to know. Sorta wondered about that. At an inch deep, it takes about a week to fully cure/set-up - experienced that myself - have over 80 ft. of driveway, so gone thru a few tubes. Would have been a winter experiment anyway with the bar in the basement - not on the bike.  
OK, what about a 2-part rubber, epdm, roofing product that needs a hardener mixed in to cure? They totally cure in about a day, but I've no idea what they'd do trapped in a long, hollow. Might even get hot, so might have to do small sections at a time to allow for some expansion and heat dissipation. 
 
BTW, (and this is really off-topic) I used that same sikaflex stuff to fill in the hollow of my Seat Concepts foam. I hated the shape of that seat. Took  a full tube of the stuff to flatten out that dished-in zone and then added some softer foam over top as that cured rubber makes for a pretty firm perch for the rump. Not perfect, but way better 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
norcal616
put BBs in the bars-

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ralph
Not had to on a modern bike but have filled reale vibrating bikes bars with lead.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
rick
Not had to on a modern bike but have filled reale vibrating bikes bars with lead.
Something on the order of an old 650 Bonneville or perhaps a BSA 441 Victor?  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
markstertt
Not had to on a modern bike but have filled reale vibrating bikes bars with lead.
Something on the order of an old 650 Bonneville or perhaps a BSA 441 Victor?  
Hey! Careful there Rick...I just went out and checked my Bonnie and it isn't vibrating at all, just as smooth as if it wasn't even running...oh, wait a minute. 
In the good old days, some folks filled their bars with lead bird shot topped off with a cap of silicone sealant...reversible, then came the 'Bar Snake' which got lubed up and pulled into the bar from one end, I still have one in the box...never tried it.
 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  


×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.