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superboots

Fuel injection system - Adjust synchronization

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superboots
Going to attempt to measure and adjust the sync on a buddies FZ-07 this weekend, I've got a Carbtune Pro and I'm going to try it on my FZ-09 first (I've got the service manual for the 09). If anyone can post a picture or explain where the adjustment screw is and where to attach the vacuum tubes for the Carbtune please enlighten me!
 
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hippiebikerchick
Welcome superboots!

Illegitimi non carborundum

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superboots
thanks hippiebikerchick, hope I posted this in the correct thread/ am allowed to post even though I don't own an 07.

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Guest unknown
I'm assuming you are talking about the throttle body sync?
 
There is a good DIY here
 

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mjh937
Let us know how it goes.

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superboots
I'm assuming you are talking about the throttle body sync? 
There is a good DIY here

Wow, thank you! I was just googling variations on "fuel injection system adjust synchronization" because that's how it's worded in the owners manual. I really appreciate the link, that's going to make this weekend a whole lot easier! 

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Guest unknown
No worries, that's what we are here for :) Let us know how it goes
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Guru
Hi @superboots. Everybody is welcome here, even if you don't own a FZ-07 (yet ;))
 
Let us know how everything works out. 
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hippiebikerchick
thanks hippiebikerchick, hope I posted this in the correct thread/ am allowed to post even though I don't own an 07.
Sure, you don't have to own an 07 to be a member here! (We'll let anybody in)  :D   
We have a section for other bike discussions here.
 
 
Stick around a while!
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Illegitimi non carborundum

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superboots
I did the sync on my FZ-09 Friday night by myself and it went smoothly, took about 2.5 hours. @wingnutted brought his FZ-07 down later Friday night and we did the sync on his Saturday morning, it went well, took 1.5 or 2 hours. One suggestion I have on the FZ-07 is let the bike warm up with the vacuum line connected to the left cylinders nipple where you would connect the manometer, then once it's warmed up take it off and connect the manometer. We tried to hook it up with the bike cold but it was dying on us with that vacuum line disconnected.
 

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westgl
Yes the bike should be at operating temp before sync'ing
 
I use a fan in front of the radiator, to keep air flowing through the radiator to keep engine temps at a reasonable level, especially when sync'ing a 4cyl. bike, as it takes a little longer than a two cyl. engine.
 
what i do is ty-wrap the throttle, to the brake lever, this is like a poormans, ah persons, cruise control/ throttle lock, you want the tywrap just tight enough to hold the throttle position, but so you can still make adjustments the the throttle position if needed.
 

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pj
Does the throttle have to be open to sync or at idle?

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Guest Ralph
idle and only touch the right hand adjuster the one on the tps side.

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pattonme
> idle
 
Um, no. try 1800-2200 RPM. Idle is entirely too lumpy to be useful.

bannerfans_1095431.jpg

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rick
I'd agree if it had carbs, but with FI, it's a completely different ball game.
 
It really does need to be done with the throttles closed. With the throttle plates opened even a hair, a lot of the air that could only get into the motor at idle thru the IAC (can never remember what Yamaha calls it) , will bypass that valve and the air screw circuits that balance the 2 TBs.
 
My Aprilia is done pretty much exactly the same. One air screw is left closed, while the other is used to balance vac at idle ( dunno if the FZ's left side is closed or ? # turns). In that case, it doesn't matter which is closed and which is adjusted as long as both are not opened. Its throttle plates are also shut tight at idle. There's a stepper motor controlled IAC that lets air into the motor at idle and also helps set fast idle when the thing is cold.
 
I finally got my gauges on mine yesterday after a 40 mile warm-up. With a small enough orifice ( I use syringe needles) in the hoses, the pulses can be damped out and what you see is an averaged vacuum. Makes it far easier than trying to read bouncing gauge needles or columns of liquid.
 
My TBs were balanced from the factory as well as my gauges could read ( just checked them with a small vac pump pulling thru a "Y" connector . Unlike those fork bushings, Yamaha got this right, at least on mine. .
 
We're all a long way away from this, but because the throttle plates are shut at idle, we can all expect some goo to accumulate over time ( 20k miles ?) right where the plates make contact with the TB bores. Lacquer thinner and some cotton swabs will make quick work of that issue. But it can cause the throttle to get a bit sticky or worse, increase idle speed by not allowing the plates to close. That might also make it harder to start when cold.
 
FI is a wonderful thing when all the squirrels are running in unison.

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thomascrown
Should take an hour max once you know what you're doing. The vacuum points are easy to get to on the 07. Carbtune is the best way to do it.

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rick
I own a long pair of forceps that allowed me to pull the right side plug and the left hose w/o removing the tank. Didn't have to touch the screw so, 5 mins to check. But another 20 to find that little rubber bung after I dropped it in that space. Thankfully, the little spring clip is magnetic.
 
Also have an angled, gear driven screw driver design for this if adjustment is needed. Just can't have too many tools ( or flashlights and mirrors to deal with the clumsies!)

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