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atxjax

Left side engine cover replace ( pics and How-To to follow )

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atxjax
Hi all,
 
 
Looking for info on how to replace the left side engine cover. Mine has a couple of rash spots on it where the PO dropped it and I have a new cover to install. Is it just a matter of draining old ( waituntil next oil change ) 2utj287.jpgunbolting, removing the old gasket, clean up and reinstall with new gasket? 
 
Anyone have access to torque values?
 
 
Thanks in advance.

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rick
Dunno for sure, but it's possible the stator coils are bolted to the inside of that cover.

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mjh937
It looks like there is a bearing attached where that circular bump is above the oil filler. It also looks like the stator is attached to the cover. The manual is not overly clear but it seems to be a bigger job than I would have expected.

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jmacas87
Hi all, 
 
Looking for info on how to replace the left side engine cover. Mine has a couple of rash spots on it where the PO dropped it and I have a new cover to install. Is it just a matter of draining old ( waituntil next oil change ) 2utj287.jpgunbolting, removing the old gasket, clean up and reinstall with new gasket? 
 
Anyone have access to torque values?
 
 
Thanks in advance.
here we go. there is a bearing back there. just gotta make sure it lines up. shouldn't be hard. cover_bolts.jpg
 

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atxjax
So best off just to get a new bearing instead of trying to remove the old one.
 
is the generator / stator bolted to the inside of the cover also?
 
 
EDIT..........
 
Answering my own question here. It looks like this inside and the stator is a wet stator. So Green is where the stator is attached. Blue is where the wires come out for the stator and Yellow is where the bearing goes. I'll save this for the second oil change.1scneg.jpg
 
 
 
 
 
 

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rick
Yep, pretty std. affair these days. The stator is bolted to the case, so be very careful with the harness and note its orientation.The bearing will supply support for the starter gear that drives the flywheel ( that's also the permanent magnet for the the alternator) thru the sprag clutch.
 
 
Screen_Shot_2017_06_19_at_6_28_50_PM.png
 

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rick
a couple more picts from the manual - I believe that Yamaha three-bond is basically RTV silicone
 
hopefully that "A" dimension will be obvious with the cover and new bearing in hand
Screen_Shot_2017_06_19_at_6_40_08_PM.png
 
free photo hosting websites
 
Screen_Shot_2017_06_19_at_6_40_48_PM.png
 

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atxjax
Thanks for the service manual pages Rick. Doesnt seem to bad but Im a bit confused. So does the tiny [HASH]13 bearing get fitted to the cover as well?
 
or does one of the shafts I pointed out with the red and green lines  fit to the cover indicated by the red arrow? Below.
 
 
1zvvbs9.png
 
ap92qq.jpg

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rick
Thanks for the service manual pages Rick. Doesnt seem to bad but Im a bit confused. So does the tiny [HASH]13 bearing get fitted to the cover as well?
Here's another page. That looks to be a roller bearing. Looks like it's in the motor and supports something called a "torque limiter" #12 Have no idea what that does - yeah it limits torque, lol.  
There are 2 dowel locators #9. Those things are usually pressed into place and don't fall out, but --
 
BTW, that big permanent rotor magnet is gonna try to hold onto the poles of the stator inside the cover. Once the gasket is broken free - that might take some plastic mallet taps - it might take a bit of a tug to pull the cover away from the motor.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Screen_Shot_2017_06_19_at_9_29_15_PM.png
 
good image hosting
 

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r1limited
This is not rocket science.
 
lean bike to right side, or drain the oil
Disconnect Stator wiring
Pull Case
Take out stator
Attach to new case
(If you do not have or never have put a bearing in a case have it done professionally)
Put case back on with new gasket
Easy peazy

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rick
Not rocket science - true that.
 
But there are details in the picts that you'd not know w/o those picts and details - for instance - only the bottom 2 case bolts get thread locker. And I'll bet there are guys who've done this swap and wished they'd used thread locker on the 3 stator bolts.
 
Asking questions never hurt no one. I have an older brother @70 who continues to enjoy getting in my face when I take a bit of a shortcut on something to tell me "there's never time to do things right, but always time to do it over"
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atxjax
I appreciate evryones input on this. I can certainly handle constructive criticism. I think I see whats going on now. So gear [HASH]12 shaft goes into the bearing [HASH]8. Then the shaft I marked with the green line goes into the other little hole in the cover.
 
I just gotta be carefulwith a couple of things.
 
When pulling cover off make sure the starter gears dont fall out and get damaged on the floor
 
and like you said use locktite on the 3 stator bolts , the stator wiring holder clamp and those two outside bolts.
1zvvbs9.png
 

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r1limited
Not rocket science - true that.  
But there are details in the picts that you'd not know w/o those picts and details - for instance - only the bottom 2 case bolts get thread locker. And I'll bet there are guys who've done this swap and wished they'd used thread locker on the 3 stator bolts.
 
Asking questions never hurt no one. I have an older brother @70 who continues to enjoy getting in my face when I take a bit of a shortcut on something to tell me "there's never time to do things right, but always time to do it over"
I get it and I understand, tus the comment on a service manual.  What my statement is is simple, people make more of something than what it is.  Back yard mechanics, forum know it alls etc etc blah blah blah all have a opinion.  It is my experiance that owning a service manual is the first tool to buy for any motorcycle from there it depends on what you want to do and how confident you are.  Asking questions, getting clarity and direction is always welcomed as well as the outcome of smart ass answers or humer answers and r diliberate answers such as this is not rocket science. 
The manual is a guide, it is not a step by step or buy a clymers :)   Anyhoot, mistakes are made, and many are fubar, but that is part of learning.  Rebuilt my Astro, new piston in hand, dropped it and it shattered, yea that taught me not to drop a 100$ piston.  I buttoned up my TR3, started to bump start it when I looked at the rpm gauge, CIR Clips stitting right there, yea that would had hurt.  So it is called measure twice cut once :)
 
@atxjax
You will be fine, you started by asking the right questions.  My only concern would be on the new bearing.  If you have never dropped a bering in this should be done by a pro.  If it is just a drop out and drop in (I do not now) you should be good to go, but chances are it is a press fit as this is part of the starter system.
 
There are easy ways of doing it like freeze the bearing a few days, use a butain toruch to heat the circumfrance case where the bearing for a few minutes then if done rigth the bearing will drop right in.  I do not recommend this, I do it,
 

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atxjax
 
@atxjax
You will be fine, you started by asking the right questions.  My only concern would be on the new bearing.  If you have never dropped a bering in this should be done by a pro.  If it is just a drop out and drop in (I do not now) you should be good to go, but chances are it is a press fit as this is part of the starter system.
 
There are easy ways of doing it like freeze the bearing a few days, use a butain toruch to heat the circumfrance case where the bearing for a few minutes then if done rigth the bearing will drop right in.  I do not recommend this, I do it,

I've done this once on a 93 FZR600 that I owned since 1997. This was a long time ago. I remember having to freeze the bearing and heat the mount with a butane torch a bit. It dropped about 3/4 of the way in and the rest I tapped in with a wooden dowel and a malet.
 
This bike is much different than the FZR which is why I want to be super duper careful. 
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rick
yer ready - have at it.
 
 

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