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Dosent Shift into neutral when warm...


groobie85

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Isn't there less protection also for the gears in most low-friction car oils? Regardless, the cost of oil is very low compared to fuel and depreciation, so I stick with decent quality oils. There are pretty massive differences in oil quality and you can have ten times as much wear with the wrong oil as with the best oil for the application.

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One of the things that happens when you use a car oil in bike with a unit transmission is that the oil is not designed to deal with the shear forces created by the gears. And yeah, it's also not designed to deal with the pressures created by the gear faces. That all just wears out the oils faster. Oil that's been damaged by heat and shear will not lubricate well. Want to actually know what shape the oil is in when you dump it, send it off for analysis. Want to actually see the wear that wrong oil causes, use a magnetic drain plug. Think you'll be shocked to see how much metal spooge the filter misses.
 
Diesel truck oils are pretty tough and nothing like energy efficient car oils with tons of friction modifiers that can - with a heavy/powerful enough bike can cause a wet clutch to slip or chatter (chattering overheats and ruins a clutch). The FZ is neither of those so unless yer doing hot launches, car oil probably is not gonna be an issue for the clutch. There are versions of Mobil 1 meant for cars that do not have modifiers, those oils will also be fine.
 
I guess as long as yer willing to swap out oil very frequently so yer not depending on worn out, beaten up oil, car oils will mostly work. Would I do it, well, all my toys get fed vehicle specific Amsoil.
 
 

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A man with a tuned ZX-10R destroyed his camshafts within minutes when running Mobil 1 during a dyno run. He replaced the cams and followers and changed to Motul 300V and had no further issues. I have also put up a link somewhere on this forum that show what poor oils can lead to.

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Oil recommendations are there for two reasons, 1 to conform to EPA or whatever agency is control the gullible worming crap and regulation strangleholds on OEMs and 2 the OEMS actually engineer there motors to run specific oil types for reasons of material, tolerance measurements (aka ability to keep oil in strict tight areas such as cams lubricated under heat and cold conditions). To advise and or or use inferior blends or not recommended is like .... well running a chain with no slack and as tight as &^$E)#& in a ^&*(@#&@# :) I have seen one to many gernad'd engines due to wrong oil types.

“Laws that forbid the carrying of arms disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes.” --Thomas Jefferson quoting Cesare Beccaria

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One of my motos won't go into neutral when hot unless I slowly rev the engine to around 2000 revs then snick it into neutral. This is part of that particular model's character, nothing can be done about it. I suggest you try this.
 
My 07's gearbox is mostly well behaved, but certainly not the most elegant shifting I've owned.
 
I think what you're experiencing is a tolerance-related issue. Whether this is an actual problem to you or not depends on how you perceive mechanical attributes/character. I would simply look for ways around it.

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A man with a tuned ZX-10R destroyed his camshafts within minutes when running Mobil 1 during a dyno run. He replaced the cams and followers and changed to Motul 300V and had no further issues. I have also put up a link somewhere on this forum that show what poor oils can lead to.
The big kawasaki motors have a history of cam pitting from poor metallurgy or lubrication or both.  
Have a buddy who had a 2002 ZRX1200 for over 10 years. Every time he adjusted valves he'd closely inspect every square mm of cam face. It really didn't take a huge number of miles before his cams started looking a bit ugly and worn funny - and that was all with proper, vis, full synthetic bike oils. 
 
 
 
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A man with a tuned ZX-10R destroyed his camshafts within minutes when running Mobil 1 during a dyno run. He replaced the cams and followers and changed to Motul 300V and had no further issues. I have also put up a link somewhere on this forum that show what poor oils can lead to.
The big kawasaki motors have a history of cam pitting from poor metallurgy or lubrication or both.  
Have a buddy who had a 2002 ZRX1200 for over 10 years. Every time he adjusted valves he'd closely inspect every square mm of cam face. It really didn't take a huge number of miles before his cams started looking a bit ugly and worn funny - and that was all with proper, vis, full synthetic bike oils. 
 
 
 
I'm sure that modern high rev engines, only aggravate the situation...
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The Zrex wasn't exactly a high revving motor - redline wasn't more than 9.5k. When Guzzi switched to a 4 valve head, there were all manner of worn out cams and followers. A design change followed a couple years later, but if you didn't use the specified 10w60 oil you were on your own.
 
 

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Another thought on the shift issue. A week ago I was cleaning my FZ and noticed that a sideways tap on the shift lever resulted in a metallic clink sorta sound. I removed the pivot bolt to the lever and found it not dry, but not very well lubed either. Also wanted to lube the ball joints - they usually have a lock pin that can allow the joint to come apart - not these. I pressed some grease into those as best as possible and filled the pivot hole with a nice wheel bearing grease w/molly.
 
The result was a much, much nicer feel on the lever. It used to have a cheap-ish metallic feel to it. Shift quality still doesn't quite match my Rotax gearbox, but it's much better - including finding neutral.

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