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groobie85

Dosent Shift into neutral when warm...

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groobie85
I just notice that after going on a 30-1.30 min ride. When I go to park and shift into neutral I can't ...even with the softest touch. The only way I can get it into neutral is to turn off the bike in either 1st or 2nd then turn on and shift it.
 
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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bugeyes
Try an oil change.
 

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ddog
Have you changed the oil recently? What oil are you running? Have you messed with your clutch at all recently? Swapped bars or adjusted the cable or lever position? Does shifting otherwise feel normal?

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jmacas87
+1 check clutch slack. next up is oil.

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CarGuy7a
First off. Why are you parking with it in Neutral? I can see if you are clicking it in N to walk it back into a parking spot but not leaving it parked in N. Should always leave it in 1st while it's parked, at least I do.
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r1limited
I just notice that after going on a 30-1.30 min ride. When I go to park and shift into neutral I can't ...even with the softest touch. The only way I can get it into neutral is to turn off the bike in either 1st or 2nd then turn on and shift it.  
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I am not sure of your riding habits or if you a clutch abuser, so I will state it this way.  [ol type=decimal][*]How many miles on the bike
[*]How many miles since your last oil change (DO NOT USE OIL WITH FRICTION INHIBITORS)
[*]When was the last time you adjusted the clutch cable?
[*]Are you the original owner
[/ol]
There can be several reasons why, clutch cable is out of adjustment, oil ((Though this is a nessasesity your complaint is very distinct and suspicious of other than a over due oil change))  Could be a bent shift fork (Worse Case) clutch itself is in need of repacment (With Springs) or it can be something as simple as oil change and clutch cable adjustment.
 
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“Laws that forbid the carrying of arms disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes.” --Thomas Jefferson quoting Cesare Beccaria

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groobie85
Gotcha. Thanks.
 
Bike has 9800 miles on it. Change the oil at 9550 to mobile 1 synthetic and k&n filter. I have never adjusted the clutch cable. I'm the second owner and have had the bike about 2 months.

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r1limited
Gotcha. Thanks.  
Bike has 9800 miles on it. Change the oil at 9550 to mobile 1 synthetic and k&n filter. I have never adjusted the clutch cable. I'm the second owner and have had the bike about 2 months.
9800 is a few miles, did the original owner do maintenance? Personally, if it were me, I would pull the clutch apart and measure all the plates or just plain do a clutch job on it.  I would replace that clutch cable to start, they stretch and it is a low cost maintenance item to do.... 

“Laws that forbid the carrying of arms disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes.” --Thomas Jefferson quoting Cesare Beccaria

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rick
Have a look at the shift linkage and make sure the clamp (aluminum) on the splined gearbox shaft (steel) is tight - and staying that way after the bike is hot.
 
Before opening up cases, have a read in the owners manual and make sure the free-play on the cable is to spec.
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groobie85
Ok. I'll start by checking the shift linkage and making sure the free play is up to spec, then I'll move on to cable replacement and clutch job if needed.
 
R1limited I've done a clutch job on my jeep before it this something I could do myself or is it too time consuming , tetious and involved?
 
Thanks again

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rick
Guess it's possible that the PO wore out the clutch in less than 10k miles, but the clutch would misbehave - it would chatter if it got overheated (maybe warped) badly or slip if the friction material was worn out.
 
If you've done a car clutch as in (pull the axle/s, pull the gearbox (or in some cases the motor and leave the gearbox) and then have a centering arbor to reinstall the new clutch, getting a clutch apart on a bike like this is a walk in the park. You'll just need to remove the lever, the case cover, and then unbolt the bolts (4?) that have springs behind them putting pressure on the pack. Unlike the car's clutch with one friction disk sandwiched between the flywheel and pressure plate, there will be a pack of steels and friction disks, something like 8 or 9 each. Just say attention to order.
 
Start with the simple/easy stuff
 
 

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jbone
Just out of curiousity , does anyone know of any good "how-to" Youtube videos of clutch replacements that use the same process as the FZ? Preferably Yamaha models.

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norcal616
Im hoping the proper oil was used during the oil change...

2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition...2015 fj-09- 120whp- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich Race Kit- tuned by 2WDW
 

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ralph
Befor you start ripping it to bits make sure the cable is adjusted correctly,
all the 07,s I have ridden have needed the clutch pulled right in and not
have excessive free play to fully disengage, as it got aftermarket levers
if so are they limiting the movement, are they adjusted to close to the bar,
is the oil level to high but on the 07 it would likely have to be quite a
bit to high to effect the clutch.

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Beemer
My bike does the same thing at times, it seems to be finicky like a cat. With mine it does it most when it's hot and I'm at a light. When I get home and put it in the garage I always put it in neutral but that's when it behaves and goes in easy. I can only guess that hot, thin oil and maybe the expansion of metal affects it. I've passed it off to just being a characteristic of this bike. A lot of bikes I've ridden in the past had quirks with going into neutral as well. Some bikes are like stubborn mules and need a good kickin' to move.

Beemer

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r1limited
Ok. I'll start by checking the shift linkage and making sure the free play is up to spec, then I'll move on to cable replacement and clutch job if needed. 
R1limited I've done a clutch job on my jeep before it this something I could do myself or is it too time consuming , tetious and involved?
 
Thanks again
Buy a service manual, you will never regret it.  The clutch replacement should consist of [ul type=disc][*]Drain Coolant (Unfortunately) unless anyone knows the case cover cane be pulled without remove of the pump
[*]Pull Cover
[*]Replace Clutch[*]Reverse the above[/ul]
Tools needed[ul type=disc][*]Clutch tool[/ul]
Time Needed[ul type=disc][*]As long as it takes :) Its all the fun par of ownership IMO[/ul]
Someone mentioned Oil and the right stuff, That was a good response.  If the wrong oil was used (With Friction Inhibitors) this may be part of the answer?  I would ask you warm or cold, if you are at a stand still and put it in gear is the bike trying to creep forward at idle and if you blip the throttle? 
 
 
 

“Laws that forbid the carrying of arms disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes.” --Thomas Jefferson quoting Cesare Beccaria

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faffi
My Virago was like that. I solved it by shifting into neutral before coming to a full stop - worked like a charm. It's not uncommon for bikes to act like this, it's been commented on in magazine bike tests for many decades.
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rick
Ok. I'll start by checking the shift linkage and making sure the free play is up to spec, then I'll move on to cable replacement and clutch job if needed. 
R1limited I've done a clutch job on my jeep before it this something I could do myself or is it too time consuming , tetious and involved?
 
Thanks again
Buy a service manual, you will never regret it.  The clutch replacement should consist of [ul type=disc][*]Drain Coolant (Unfortunately) unless anyone knows the case cover cane be pulled without remove of the pump
[*]Pull Cover
[*]Replace Clutch[*]Reverse the above[/ul]
Tools needed[ul type=disc][*]Clutch tool[/ul]
Time Needed[ul type=disc][*]As long as it takes :) Its all the fun par of ownership IMO[/ul]
Someone mentioned Oil and the right stuff, That was a good response.  If the wrong oil was used (With Friction Inhibitors) this may be part of the answer?  I would ask you warm or cold, if you are at a stand still and put it in gear is the bike trying to creep forward at idle and if you blip the throttle? 
 
 

Actually, if it's a clutch drag issue, oil with loads of friction modifiers will help, not make it worse. That said, I'm a firm believer in full synthetic, motorcycle specific oil and an oil change to a different brand/type might just help w/o doing anything else   
He'll only need one of those clutch tools that looks like a big pair of vice grips with long bent arms if the basket or inner drum are showing wear(again, only 10k miles) and need to be replaced. Otherwise, just swapping out disks shouldn't require more than std. sockets. 
 
 
 
 
 
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level41
Clutch should be just fine, if you're starting fine in first gear.
Doesn't look like a clutch problem.
 
as you mention:
- it works fine until the bike gets hot.
- when it's hot, can't find neutral.
 
Which, to me, means the entire gearbox works just fine (save for finding N). It departs fine, it shifts fine.
If it was a clutch issue, you'd have trouble in other gears as well.
 
I'd deduct it's either:
Rider error, or, something inside the gearbox is broken.
 
I would first try to dance around on the gears, shifting from 1 to N to 2 to N when the engine is hot, to see which gear is easiest to shift into N.
On some bikes, and for some people, it's easier to shift to 1st gear before going into N.
Some prefer to go into 2nd, due to the higher foot precision shifting down.
 
If you can't find a way at all, to shift into N, I'd probably think it's a more serious mechanical issue in the gearbox.

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faffi
It's highly unlikely something is broken, more likely tolerances acting up and little to worry about. It could of course be something wrong going on, but if you google "difficulty finding neutral" you get a lot of hits as it's very common. The gearbox is made so you should make the 1-2 shift without ending up in neutral, and sometimes neutral ends up being a bit too elusive. Most will find that it is easy to hit neutral from 2nd gear when still rolling when a gearbox just pass through neutral into 1st or 2nd, depending from where it is sitting.
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rick
 Most will find that it is easy to hit neutral from 2nd gear when still rolling when a gearbox just pass through neutral into 1st or 2nd, depending from where it is sitting.
That's what I do as habit. And done that way, it usually takes just wee tap on the pedal.
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yamahaha
These are not the smoothest of transmissions. Good oil helps. Really clunky with some oils and old oil.

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r1limited
Clutch should be just fine, if you're starting fine in first gear. Doesn't look like a clutch problem.
 
as you mention:
- it works fine until the bike gets hot.
- when it's hot, can't find neutral.
 
Which, to me, means the entire gearbox works just fine (save for finding N). It departs fine, it shifts fine.
If it was a clutch issue, you'd have trouble in other gears as well.
 
I'd deduct it's either:
Rider error, or, something inside the gearbox is broken.
 
I would first try to dance around on the gears, shifting from 1 to N to 2 to N when the engine is hot, to see which gear is easiest to shift into N.
On some bikes, and for some people, it's easier to shift to 1st gear before going into N.
Some prefer to go into 2nd, due to the higher foot precision shifting down.
 
If you can't find a way at all, to shift into N, I'd probably think it's a more serious mechanical issue in the gearbox.
NEVER PUT FRICTION MODIFIER OIL IN A MOTORCYCLE THAT SAYS NO FRICTION MODIFIERS 
If there is that kind of drag there is something wrong
 

“Laws that forbid the carrying of arms disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes.” --Thomas Jefferson quoting Cesare Beccaria

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level41
I run wet clutches with 10W30 dino car oil for decades, and it runs just fine!
It really depends on how you ride.
I see people swear by sticking with diesel oil, or motorcycle oil, but if your aim is not to race, but to cruise, most dino 10W30 and synthetic 10W40 car oil will run just fine by itself.
 
I've heard all the arguments about zinc this, and additive other that, and slipping clutch arguments, but they've never been issues on any of my bikes, save for when I go at peak HP in 6th gear, for long stretches (like 15-30 min at top speed).
 
If your oil is 10W or higher, you can just run regular car oil; and still get 75-80k miles out of your engine!
If you run 5W or 0W oil, you might damage the clutch indeed, but it usually would not manifest until you're going near to peak performance (peak HP).
0W and 5W oils (like 0W20 to 5W30) are usually too light for the transmission, so I don't use them.
 
I hardly ever race, so your statement of 'never' is not really valid.
I also get 75-80k miles out of my engines, so wear is not an issue with me.

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