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rhb

long distance solution

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rhb

I PM'd you a request, just looking for a reasonable solution to fork upgrades,  but shipping forks may be problematic. so basically need self install option with or without your preferred upgrades. Found some old pricing for various set ups, looking for an update. Check your PMs.
Thanks,
john
 
It pays to read, just saw you had some health issues, hope all is well, no rush...
 

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Mr.Puss
I PM'd you a request, just looking for a reasonable solution to fork upgrades,  but shipping forks may be problematic. so basically need self install option with or without your preferred upgrades. Found some old pricing for various set ups, looking for an update. Check your PMs. Thanks,
john
 
It pays to read, just saw you had some health issues, hope all is well, no rush...

Id love to hear what Matt has say. 
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Crush your enemies. See them driven before you. Hear the lamentations of their women.          Fuss Life.

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pattonme

Started a new day job on Monday. No more blasted 60, 70hr weeks! Well, ok the >40 can go to putting my Forks-by reputation back together... Haven't been active on the forum for just way too long.
 
Yes I can send you my in-house GSXR-based solution as a kit, saves you roughly $100 so about $370 including springs, 300 without. You'll need simple tools to do the install and a bottle of appropriate oil. The next rung is the Matris F15K for right around $540 $590 shipped (CONUS) and all fixes applied. It won't require any permanent changes to the stanchion, unlike my or Andreani option.
 
You get free telephone support in any case. 
 
I've shipped fix-up kits to the UK and close to a dozen fork kits between NZ and AU destinations. Almost tempted to nominate @gregjet as my agent for the southern pacific hemisphere... :)

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rhb

Hey Thanks, I'll have to read up on your custom set up, and prepare some shop gear, but when I move ahead I'll be in touch. BTW I'm 165 lbs naked (like the bike) and just shy of 180 with gear, think I'll keep the OEM springs, any comment?
regards John

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pattonme

my magic decoder ring says OE springs will work. have you measured your current sag values?


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rhb
my magic decoder ring says OE springs will work. have you measured your current sag values?
 
 
Mine too...
Yes with after market preload adjusters Set to minimum preload (which is more than stock) and a 10cc more oil in each fork leg, and rear preload set to 6, I'm getting about 30mm rear and 28 on front rider sag, front is a little stiff need to remove the oil. only getting about 90mm total travel on a normal ride. just that there is no rebound damping, skipping along we go, and at full acceleration in higher gears getting a head shake on uneven road surfaces.
 

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pattonme

you want at least 150mm of oil level and rider sag of 35-40mm front, and IMO 25-30mm for the shock. But I like my bikes a little on the nose.
90mm used travel is not a huge deal - do your best, hardest stop and see how deep into the stroke you can get. That helps in determining where you sand vis-a-vis oil level.


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gregjet

" Almost tempted to nominate gregjet as my agent for the southern pacific hemisphere... :)"
Oh no you don't... I am a retired little old man. I wish no responsibilities upon my self. LOL
 
Usually only 2 main things cause incorrect sufficient travel. Too much oil ( most common), or too stiff or coil binding springs. MAYBE too much compression damping or hydraulic lock , but way less common. You didn't use ATF did you...
 

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Go forth and modify my son...go forth and modify...

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rhb
" Almost tempted to nominate gregjet as my agent for the southern pacific hemisphere... :)" Oh no you don't... I am a retired little old man. I wish no responsibilities upon my self. LOL
 
Usually only 2 main things cause incorrect sufficient travel. Too much oil ( most common), or too stiff or coil binding springs. MAYBE too much compression damping or hydraulic lock , but way less common. You didn't use ATF did you...

The thing about suspension is there are a lot of opinions and a lot of personal preference involved, I realize this. In my case I was trying to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear, as they say, by adding a little oil when I installed pre load caps. I went against my own rule of making one change at a time and evaluating the result, but there I was with the fork caps off and temptation won over intelligent action again :)
Mt goal was to get a rather even sag front ant rear between 30-40 front and rear, 30 being on the stiff side of ok for my kind of street riding.
 
What I was able to accomplish was as written above, more stiff than desired, but ridable, the problem is the front and rear as mentioned by another chap are now "equally bad" which is perfectly true. I should take a little oil out if I were to try to tune this set up further, but It is a waste of time to think I am going to end up with a good front end by doing so, I will wait for a real fork upgrade first. Then tune...
All opinions are welcome as it is often good to  canvass the whole range of solutions before choosing one for personal use.
 
I did not use ATF BTW, but this opens up the whole discussion on fork oil viscosity index vs. "weight" by label which is meaningless, and also mixing of 2 types of suspension fluid which is a no no.
 
@Pattonme using a brake dive test, I have done that previously and got a few more milimeters of travel, but maybe 5, can't remember, the figure of 90 was a normal 80 kilometer ride, fast hard cornering and no deliberate hard front braking to get a real case scenario value.
 

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