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Tight cornering on stock tires


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Hmm....
I don't think I'm lacking in experience.
I merely compared the FZ to my other bikes.
Been riding on 2 wheels for a good 30 years now, but faster than mopeds only in the last 10 years.
 
My honda bikes for instance, wouldn't do that unless I'm like almost laying it down (where the peg, or whatever, starts scraping the ground).
It could very well be that something (like a bolt) isn't tight.
I will research more.

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Are you on the org rear shock, if so the lack of damping on that
starts to make it's self felt long before the rear tyre starts
to let go at least on mine it does.

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There is an effect I used to call the preload blues.
If you have an undersprung bike ( especially the rear) and try to compensate by bumping up the preload when you corner and load the suspension , at first it doesn't move , then blows through a heap of travel when it gets to the preload breakaway. This feels like the tyre is sliding. When you add to that the sloppy rubber mounted footpegs, and if you actually load you inner footpeg during cornering ( as you are supposed to), it will do exactly the same thing. The two added together will make the bike feel like the rear is moving around ( sliding).
First discovered this on a Yamaha SR500 in the 70's. We couldn't figure why it was sliding around when you started throwing it around. Followed the bike on another through the same corners, and the rider said it was sliding, but from behind obviously wasn't. Turned out to be exactly these two causes.
 

Go forth and modify my son...go forth and modify...

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  • 1 month later...

Seems like I found the issue.
The rear tire was slightly out of alignment.
Though the alignment looks ok, the wheel was aiming a bit to the right, causing on tight left turns, the feeling of a low slide, and on a right turn, the feeling as if the rear was creeping up to the center of the turn.
 
I wonder if it has anything to do with the indicator (metal block on the markers).
The one on the right side can only fit in one way, since reversing it, would prevent the rear axle to fit.
But the one on the left can be mounted upside down. It looks pretty symmetric to me, but on the inside it has an 'L' printed.
I've installed it in such a way that the L is not upside down.
 
Anyway, I'll be adjusting the rear wheel in the near future, and report later.

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Out of alignment will make the bike feel aweful. Might be worth a full front rear alignment check. Those of us with this bike that have checked have found the markers not to bad but that doesn't mean they all are. Sometimes you can get an idea from sighting the chain line for an initial indicator ( rotating the tyre helps) but it isn't infallable. Mearuring time.

Go forth and modify my son...go forth and modify...

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  • 1 month later...
firstyammerha

I've noticed this with my spring preload on the lowest setting. I'm on the stock Bridgestones with owners manual air pressures. Seems to occur with more throttle on exiting the turn. I'm on the lowest preload trying to get away from that `front lean and rest' riding position.

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Yup, I'm probably running the left (chain) side of the wheel 1 to 2 mm more to the rear than the right side,  from the marks on the swingarm, and now turning feels natural to me.
 
Front is aligned fine.
Now I can zigzag without the bike feeling funny.

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  • 1 year later...

Tires, tires, tires... 

 

Anyone check to see if your suspension is set properly?  Just bought my bike last Saturday, and with me at 180lbs it feels too tight in back under factory settings. I plan to soften pre-load a notch, and a quarter turn softer on rebound. A back tire that's too high sprung and too fast on rebound will jump, or on a corner feel like it just for a second slid out (because it's jumping then gripping/sliding). Increasing the angle during a corner only sharpens the feel of this as you actually do lose traction on those milliseconds that make your heart skip a beat.  

 

Don't get caught up on SAG. It's mainly calculated for the best track conditions. Tune to what feels best for you. Real world is a bumpy track! 

 

All depends on what your main riding style is. Tune for that.  For me, it's commuting. This bike is constantly busy back there on rural roads and interstate. If I were on a track, the factory setting is ideal. 

 

The front and back tires are too wide for how light and narrow the bike is. At least for me. But I'm coming from a 1986 Yamaha SRX-600 whose curb weight wet is 289#. My back tire is a 120/90/18. My front is a 100/90/18. This bike would stomp the FZ/MT in back road action. The softer suspension with the narrower tires make my old bucket surprise a LOT of people. 

 

Aside from the fact that the center of gravity on the FZ/MT is too high. It's not a track bike. It's fun on the track because it's light and nimble, but it will never get a good, SMOOTH lean over.  

 

Could be an excellent dual purpose bike and maybe there are some people already in that area of thought. Hence the tall wind screens available and hard luggage options. If I bought it for that I'd get dual purpose tires. 80/20 or 70/30 - highway/off-road dual sports, the belly pan, and yes soften the suspension... lol. 

 

These stock tires make this bike slow to lean over the bike.  I hate Bridgestone anyway, so very soon I'll get either a 100 or 110 front (probably the 100), and a 160 back. That, along with all that torque, will make this a very agile bike while also lowering unsprung weight. Every lb makes a difference in handling characteristics. That's the benefit of a lighter aftermarket exhaust. 

 

I can feel these stock tires grip. I can also feel that slipping sensation even on slow turns.  But the tires are fighting a suspension that's too hyper. I wold have liked to try the 2015-2017 model since Yamaha stiffened it up in 2018. 

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  • Premium Member
5 minutes ago, Old Man said:

 I wold have liked to try the 2015-2017 model since Yamaha stiffened it up in 2018.  

I seriously doubt you'd like the 2015-2017 suspension any better.

DewMan
 
Just shut up and ride.

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