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V8titanpwr

"How to" Changing your oil.

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Guru
Great write-up again! Thank you sir.
 
I changed the oil last week. It's a simply job but I forgot to take pictures, sorry.

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olderthandirt
You DO NOT want to fill that oil up to the top line. There is still some old oil in the top end of the motor that takes all night to drain down to the oil pan. If you fill it with new oil up to the top line on the sight glass....the next morning you can check the oil and it will be way ABOVE the line. TOO MUCH OIL.
 
Instead....install new oil filter first, and then fill it with fresh oil to the bottom line on the sight glass. Start the bike up and let it run for a minute. This will pump oil into the empty oil filer. Wait 10 minutes...check oil level. Fill up to the BOTTOM line. Then check oil again the next day...and adjust as necessary.
 
 
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V8titanpwr
I've never had a problem with over filling but that's some really great advice for anyone who is new to this and still unsure, thanks olderthandirt.
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Keep the rubber side down and the shiny side up.

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hobbs
I'll add that a strap wrench makes it a lil easier. The reservoir isn't in the way while using it.
 
Also, and this is just me, I'm sure some will testify to it being a waste.. but I pour 1/4 of a bottle of fresh oil in after the old oil is drained. I had a bit more fouled oil come out that way. It's not 100% of it, but any extra is good and I hate having a 1/4 bottle of oil sitting in my shop. I forget it, then have several bottles floating around.
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nmucat
Great write up for the newbies.

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cassecou
That's exactly how to do it. Thanks for the refresher.
On a plus note, oil filter and drain plug can just be hand tight. The heat from the oil and the engine will make everything expand, so, everything will become tighter.

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pgeldz
I agree with olderthandirt on this one.
 
Also, per the manual, the oil filter gets torqued to 12 ft-lbs, and the oil drain bolt is torqued to 31 ft-lbs.
 
:)
 
- Paulie
 
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Guest unknown
I thought I replied to this but I guess not. Make sure to clean off the area where the oil filter mounts. It can get some road grime and grit on it that may mess with the new filters' seal. I did 2 weeks ago and ran into this issue.

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girkmonster
Make sure that you know your tools. For example, if you are inclined to use a torque wrench to tignten the drain plug (factory recommended, but I will never do so again), make sure you know the rating for your wrench. They are not accurate near the lower end of their ratings.
 
You can crack your pan by trying to properly torque the plug using a wrench that is rated too high.  Don't ask how I know this.

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Cruizin
When I drain my oil, I let it drip for about 15 minutes, and tilt my bike from side to side, careful not to drop it.
 
Then, I click my starter button on and off really quick. I don't let the engine run of course, just cycle it and shut off right away really fast. I do this twice only. This get's almost all the old oil out.
 
Then I hand tighten the drain bolt and filter.
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rmdet
Changed oil and filter tonight during commercial breaks of "Walking Dead" x_x. As others noted, it is a very quick & easy job.
 
Rubber strap wrench worked great for removal. Used the K&N 303 filter. Slightly longer than the OEM but clearance is not an issue. 10-40 used & added about 2.6 quarts. Unfortunately, it is JUST a bit over the high level mark (checked again after a quick 15 min ride). I will probably start with 2.4-2.5 quarts next time - easier to add than remove.
 
 
 
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fzyurkoc
This is great advice! This will be my first bike oil change! So is every 3k miles too much?
 

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effzee07
I do not think you can really change your oil too much. Im still old fashioned. Cars nowadays say you can go like 5-7k between oil changes....not me. I still stick with 3, and on my bikes I do it when "i feel the need"...usually well under 3k. Same with my mowers.

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jerryv
Changing oil on our FZ's ie EZ. Helped my son change the oil on his 2011 R6.  OMG what a pain in the arse.  Entire fairing has to be removed and naturally some gorilla overtightened one of the allen head bolts on the fairing.  Stripped out the allen head.  Tried using one of those "as seen on TV" kits the drill out the bolt, then you flip the bit an reverse out the bolt.  No dice, too damned tight.  Had to dremmel a slot in the head of the bolt and use a BIG screw driver, which eventually worked.  Then you need to remove the shift linkage to get at the filter, which is so recessed you can't get a strap wrench on it.  Have one of those filter wrenches that goes over the top of the filter; of course that did not bite and kept slipping.  Added a layer of tape to provide more friction.  Ended up being a 3 hour oil change. lol.  Reminds me why I like to ride NAKED.
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none
Just did mine, it was so easy I was triple checking myself to make sure I did not forget something!
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potatochips
When I drain my oil, I let it drip for about 15 minutes, and tilt my bike from side to side, careful not to drop it. 
Then, I click my starter button on and off really quick. I don't let the engine run of course, just cycle it and shut off right away really fast. I do this twice only. This get's almost all the old oil out.
 
Then I hand tighten the drain bolt and filter.
Hand tighten the drain bolt???
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No Hater
When I drain my oil, I let it drip for about 15 minutes, and tilt my bike from side to side, careful not to drop it. 
Then, I click my starter button on and off really quick. I don't let the engine run of course, just cycle it and shut off right away really fast. I do this twice only. This get's almost all the old oil out.
 
Then I hand tighten the drain bolt and filter.
Hand tighten the drain bolt???
I too like to live dangerously but, not sure if Im that bold.  

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Goose1072
I use one of these when changing the oil on my bike Ratio Rite Measuring Cup
The cup goes to 500cc and on the side of the oil pan you will see 2300 stamped.
So I put in 2400cc, a 100 because of the new filter and have always made it to the middle of the glass which I think is perfect.
I also use Maxima Premium Engine Oil
 

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cassecou
Hand tighten the drain bolt???
I too like to live dangerously but, not sure if Im that bold.
By hand tight, we mean tight by hand using a wrench, but not too tight, snug will do. No need for a specific torque wrench, which is the ultimate. This can be applied to most situations. In doubt, tight it snug, and 99% of the time, it will be perfect. 

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rowdy
Then I hand tighten the drain bolt and filter.
Hand tighten the drain bolt?  I'm pretty sure the torque specs on the drain bolt are way higher than my human hands and fingers can do. 
[edit]  Never mind, I saw you meant with a wrench. :)
 

Why can't left turners see us?

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No Hater
I too like to live dangerously but, not sure if Im that bold.
By hand tight, we mean tight by hand using a wrench, but not too tight, snug will do. No need for a specific torque wrench, which is the ultimate. This can be applied to most situations. In doubt, tight it snug, and 99% of the time, it will be perfect.
Copy....I do the same. 
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motomeek
Thanks for the How To!
 
I followed this last week when I did the oil change (my first one ever!). It was so easy... A few days later, I did my CBR250R's (for the first time), and that was a pain. DAMN those fairings!! Like really, you have to hide the oil filter behind the lower cowl that has a bolt connected to the fairing on top, that I'd have to remove in order to make it more accessible?
 
I just wedge my two little hands through an opening by removing one bolt off the lower cowl to finagle the thing. I needed an extra set of hands to get the filter back on.
 
BTW, is it normal for oil filter wrenches to "SQUEEZE" the filter when trying to remove it? The poor thing was all dented when I got it off.

Instagram: @meekmade | You don't need to flat foot a bike to ride it.

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