Cruizin Posted September 29, 2017 Share Posted September 29, 2017 BUMP Yamaha MT-10 ForumYamaha Tracer 900 Forum Yamaha Ténéré 700 Forum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1limited Posted September 29, 2017 Share Posted September 29, 2017 (edited) There should always be slight movement on the feel of the throttle before it engages. Always Swing the bars to full lock right and left ensure this slack is there I have seen far to many people get this wrong and on a bump or anything that may cause you to accidentally twist that throttle you are going to get hurt or worse it is to tight they make a right or left and the throttle opens up. It is there for a reason, Throttle play is to feel I like a slight 3/16 or so in play before engagement, believe me this is important NEVER NOT HAVE PLAY, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER Edited September 29, 2017 by r1limited 2 “Laws that forbid the carrying of arms disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes.” --Thomas Jefferson quoting Cesare Beccaria Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firstyammerha Posted November 4, 2017 Share Posted November 4, 2017 I just did the R6 throttle swap today and from the seat it is much quicker than the stock throttle. I saw this thread a week or so ago and I should have reviewed it before jumping in to the swap. Would have saved some time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cyow5 Posted November 13, 2017 Share Posted November 13, 2017 To answer a question that was asked a couple times here, this is the technically correct amount of slack. The idea of 5mm being "okay" is a bit mind boggling but as R1 said, there is a reason to have some slack, too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1limited Posted November 13, 2017 Share Posted November 13, 2017 7 minutes ago, cyow5 said: To answer a question that was asked a couple times here, this is the technically correct amount of slack. The idea of 5mm being "okay" is a bit mind boggling but as R1 said, there is a reason to have some slack, too. I am right again! Imagne that 😇 Ever have the stupid moment when you may lean back or adjust your self only to have the bike freakin excelerate on you and you suddenly lunge forward and your nads (Or whatever girly stuff) is now in the back of your throat? Well I havn't but if I did I can tell you it is because of miss adjusted throttle cables and little to no slack. I will just say it, people that say never put slack are stupid, plain stupid “Laws that forbid the carrying of arms disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes.” --Thomas Jefferson quoting Cesare Beccaria Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phanomenal07 Posted December 26, 2017 Share Posted December 26, 2017 On 11/10/2015 at 5:02 PM, norcal616 said: as far as the r6 throttle tube mod you will have to reset both cables as the r6 throttle tube has a bigger "cam" to allow the " quick turn"... Both cables? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member norcal616 Posted December 26, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted December 26, 2017 2 hours ago, phanomenal07 said: Both cables? yup... one is to pull the throttle bodies open and the other pulls the throttle bodies back closed... I took the R6 tube off, great for quick accel but requires way more on point control when slowing down compared to stock tube... I got better throttle manipulation with stock tube as it requires a bit more wrist movement than the R6 tube... 2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition...2015 fj-09- 120whp- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich Race Kit- tuned by 2WDW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stickshift Posted December 27, 2017 Share Posted December 27, 2017 2 hours ago, norcal616 said: ... I got better throttle manipulation with stock tube as it requires a bit more wrist movement than the R6 tube... Stock is also better for wheelie control... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topazsparrow Posted December 27, 2017 Share Posted December 27, 2017 35 minutes ago, stickshift said: Stock is also better for wheelie control... The r6 tube is fine once you get used to it if you're not hamfisting the throttle to begin with. I'm glad i put the R6 tube on though. once I put my heated grips on, it was basically back to stock feeling. I can't imaging what a stock tube would feel like, you'd have a hard time getting to half throttle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phanomenal07 Posted December 27, 2017 Share Posted December 27, 2017 11 hours ago, norcal616 said: yup... one is to pull the throttle bodies open and the other pulls the throttle bodies back closed... I took the R6 tube off, great for quick accel but requires way more on point control when slowing down compared to stock tube... I got better throttle manipulation with stock tube as it requires a bit more wrist movement than the R6 tube... Every video I seen of so eone installing the r6 tube they only adjust one cable by the handlebar. Where is the other cable at? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member norcal616 Posted December 27, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted December 27, 2017 8 hours ago, phanomenal07 said: Every video I seen of so eone installing the r6 tube they only adjust one cable by the handlebar. Where is the other cable at? on the left side of the throttle bodies... 1 2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition...2015 fj-09- 120whp- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich Race Kit- tuned by 2WDW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phanomenal07 Posted December 27, 2017 Share Posted December 27, 2017 I’m lost lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member norcal616 Posted December 27, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted December 27, 2017 Left side of throttle bodies.. both throttle cables can also be adjusted right here... 2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition...2015 fj-09- 120whp- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich Race Kit- tuned by 2WDW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlbatrossCafe Posted December 27, 2017 Share Posted December 27, 2017 (edited) I used this tutorial a couple years ago. I have an R6 throttle tube and adjust my throttle to have almost no freeplay/slack. Some might call it twitchy but I love it. I have no problems rev-matching or controlling the throttle, but then again I have been riding with it this way for 20k miles and I don't wheelie (intentionally, anyway). Edited December 27, 2017 by AlbatrossCafe Dual headlights or deathhttp://fz07.org/thread/5384/albatrosscafes-galleryhttp://fz07.org/thread/5174/dual-headlight-upgrade-completed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1limited Posted December 28, 2017 Share Posted December 28, 2017 TWIST IT WIDE OPEN AND KEEP IT THERE Works for me “Laws that forbid the carrying of arms disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes.” --Thomas Jefferson quoting Cesare Beccaria Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imherefortheride Posted May 31, 2019 Share Posted May 31, 2019 Replying so I can save this thread. For some reason "follow" doesn't show up when I click the link. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PMT-07 Posted October 31, 2021 Share Posted October 31, 2021 On 9/8/2014 at 1:57 PM, V8titanpwr said: [span]So you have too much slack in your throttle cable that you want to get rid of it. Do you have 5 minutes and a 10mm wrench? perfect, lets begin. Well this doesn't look too good. You will notice that if you have too much slack in your cable that there is a little play on your throttle right before you get a response when you twist the grip. This is the cause right here. You want to start by loosening the upper nut enough so you can pull the cable housing out from the metal bracket. The bottom nut controls how much slack you have and the top just tightens the throttle cable back into the metal bracket. Move the bottom nut down further on the threads, if you move the bottom nut up, it adds more slack, down reduces slack. Once you have the correct amount of slack just go ahead and tighten the top nut and your done. There is also a fine adjustment you can also make on the nuts next to the master cylinder, those two nuts on the upper throttle cable can be adjusted in similar fashion. I think those are 8mm. You should end up looking like this. That simple guys. Ride safe. [/span] Is this top nut supposed to be tight? Seems like i can still spin with my fingers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triple Jim Posted October 31, 2021 Share Posted October 31, 2021 (edited) When making this adjustment, keep in mind that the Yamaha manual specifies 3 to 5 mm of cable slack. In easy to remember terms, don't go less than 1/8" of slack. Of course the locknut needs to be tightened to "snug". Edited October 31, 2021 by Triple Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M. Hausknecht Posted October 31, 2021 Share Posted October 31, 2021 Top nut is supposed to be tight. Bottom nut should be held in place by the steel "fingers"but I put a wrench on it to be sure, and then tighten the upper nut with a wrench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
balkor2 Posted October 18, 2022 Share Posted October 18, 2022 On 9/8/2014 at 1:57 PM, V8titanpwr said: You want to start by loosening the upper nut enough so you can pull the cable housing out from the metal bracket. I attempted this yesterday but it seems that the bottom nut is high enough that it is still being held by thebracket teeth (tooths). How aggressive did you have to get. 2022 Yamaha MT-07 Cyan Storm, 2005 Kawasaki Vulcan 2000 [VN2000A], 1997 Yamaha YZF600R - Thundercat [project] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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