bmwpowere36m3 Posted October 30, 2015 Share Posted October 30, 2015 Yes, right TB when sitting on the bike facing forward. How far out was it? Mine wasn't much, so I didn't notice a difference… actually never have on any motorcycle, as they always been relatively close to being good regardless of mileage/condition. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yamahaha Posted October 30, 2015 Share Posted October 30, 2015 Yes, right TB when sitting on the bike facing forward. How far out was it? Mine wasn't much, so I didn't notice a difference… actually never have on any motorcycle, as they always been relatively close to being good regardless of mileage/condition.Mine was about 1/8 of a turn I think. Its been a few months since I did it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted October 30, 2015 Share Posted October 30, 2015 Yes, right TB when sitting on the bike facing forward. How far out was it? Mine wasn't much, so I didn't notice a difference… actually never have on any motorcycle, as they always been relatively close to being good regardless of mileage/condition.If you would find them way out of sync that would require more than 1/8-1/4 turn, I'd look for an air leak somewhere. And with the idle now controlled by the ECU, idle might be a bit less smooth if they are not perfect, but yeah, doing this is more for piece of mind than actual results. I'll likely not touch mine again for a long time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scordiaboy515 Posted November 29, 2015 Share Posted November 29, 2015 Great tip, I whipped this up for about $8.00...had the rest of the stuff laying around my shop... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ChicagoAJ Posted April 27, 2016 Share Posted April 27, 2016 Question: I'm going to build my manometer sometime in the very near future when it warms up a bit. I know I'll need ~12 feet of 1/4" tubing, ~2 feet of 1/8 tubing on each end, either auto trans fluid or two stroke oil, and a place to mount everything. But... I saw a video on YouTube and it didn't look like a T fitting was used on the left throttle body in line with the vacuum hose originally on the throttle body. Is that ok to do? Or can it be done without that T fitting? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmwpowere36m3 Posted April 27, 2016 Share Posted April 27, 2016 I did it with a tee... I believe the map sensor is connected to that line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ChicagoAJ Posted April 27, 2016 Share Posted April 27, 2016 Where did everyone get their 1/8 ID tubing from? Every hardware store around me only has 3/16... And I don't want to buy 100 feet online (even though it is only 6 bucks). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ChicagoAJ Posted May 13, 2016 Share Posted May 13, 2016 Finally got around to doing this today, wow was it easy. All I had to do was take off the right plastic so my flexible screwdriver could reach the pilot adjustment screw. However, my bike was showing that the throttle bodies were dead even on my manometer. So I went ahead and put it out of sync just to sync it since I was already in there. Very easy to do. If anyone in the Chicagoland area ever needs this done and doesn't want to take it to a shop; I can do it in my garage and run whoever shows up through the process. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gomeybear Posted May 24, 2016 Share Posted May 24, 2016 Can somebody explain how the t fitting is oriented on the left hand side throttle body? Not to sure what this entails can someone elaborate how to set this up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ChicagoAJ Posted May 30, 2016 Share Posted May 30, 2016 Can somebody explain how the t fitting is oriented on the left hand side throttle body? Not to sure what this entails can someone elaborate how to set this up? Go ahead and check out my DIY Manometer thread for an explanation. http://fz07.org/thread/5358/diy-manometer?page=1&scrollTo=81372 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gomeybear Posted May 31, 2016 Share Posted May 31, 2016 THanks for the help ChicagoAJ. Where did you get most of the supplies to get make the manometer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ChicagoAJ Posted May 31, 2016 Share Posted May 31, 2016 THanks for the help ChicagoAJ. Where did you get most of the supplies to get make the manometer?Mostly eBay, all the hardware and auto stores in my area were out of everything in the sizes that I needed. The only things I was able to get in stores were zip ties (Harbor Freight), cheap trans fluids for 1970s or prior trucks (Wal-Mart), and the metal shelving bracket I used to mount everything I got at Menards. I got food grade tubing off eBay because I know that stuff is a little more flexible than the cheap PVC tubing at most hardware stores, better quality too. You don't need super great materials, but you might as well make it right so it doesn't leak. Some people just jam the smaller tubing into the bigger tubing - but I didn't trust that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tunny Posted October 13, 2016 Share Posted October 13, 2016 This is a very useful post - thank you, V8titanpwr! I synced my throttle bodies yesterday using an FZ07 manual, but the photos and comments in this post were very helpful to have on hand. In fact, I don't think having the manual is at all necessary to do the sync if you have this post. The only comment I have is that the manual calls for the existing hose connected to the brass vacuum port on throttle body [HASH]1 to be tied into the manometer testing rig with a tee fitting during the sync (one branch of the tee to the existing hose, one branch of the tee to the [HASH]1 throttle body brass vacuum port using a short piece of vacuum hose, and one branch of the tee to the manometer). I used a pair of hemostats to get at the brass vacuum ports on the throttle bodies they worked just fine. I also used a Motion Pro Syncpro instead of making a manometer and was well satisfied with it (but I think the home made manometer is good too). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stangaddict Posted January 12, 2017 Share Posted January 12, 2017 I used this how-to to sync my TBs and it was very helpful. Thank you, OP and ChicagoAJ for the pics and time you took to detail all of this out! I am not sure if it was covered by others as I didn't read all 10 pages, but I had trouble syncing my TBs at idle AND under throttle. I'm curious as to how many of you addressed that. I chose to sync under throttle and let idle go out of sync. My thinking is I'm more concerned with engine performance when I'm moving than I am when I'm stopped. How did any of you fair? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yamahaha Posted January 12, 2017 Share Posted January 12, 2017 Yes, its tricky getting them synced. Its supposed to be done at idle. Frankly, I think its a waste of time unless you are experiencing issues. I did my bike and never did the wifes. Both bikes run exactly the same. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markstertt Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 I've decided to make a manometer after reading this post but was wondering if it's necessary to make it 4 ft. tall, I have access to 6 ft. acrylic tubing and would like to cut one in half and make a 3 footer and put the oil level at about half or about 1.5'. Any thoughts on a shorter version would be appreciated...Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbone Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 I've decided to make a manometer after reading this post but was wondering if it's necessary to make it 4 ft. tall, I have access to 6 ft. acrylic tubing and would like to cut one in half and make a 3 footer and put the oil level at about half or about 1.5'. Any thoughts on a shorter version would be appreciated...MarkI was wondering something similar. I was more or less wondering about using less oil in the tubes. I feel like it would still have the same result, but I'm not a mechanic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekfz Posted March 30, 2017 Share Posted March 30, 2017 Checked mine today 1200 miles for the first time. Surprisingly didn't need any adjustment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ogri Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 Hi, Last month, I have got a quote from local bike shop for replacing spark plugs and for syncing of throttle bodies. They asked me the price for this kind of job is $220. I am not a hardcore person to manually create an oil tubing "tool" to "adjust" vacuum pressure. I just bought the right tool for the right job. "Vacuum Carburetor Synchronizer for 2 Cylinder Bike" costs about $31 on amazon.com, OEM spark plugs $20 for pair at the dealership. Rent all tools and a lift for one hour at "Garage-YourSelf" - $25 per hour. I spent 1.5h because of non rush chatting with nice "garage" owner and, good music and owners cat playing around. I didn't have those 20 nice photos from internet, just couple text pages from yamaha service manual. So, job done with pleasure and I spent only $88 (plus tool I will keep for next bikes). Bike definitely became smoother. The same level of vibrations has moved towards more higer speeds (10-20mph higher) then it was before. I am not sure about pictures I saw here in the forum, I do not notice any "T" connectors on first TBody. Vacuum sensor should be connected to the vacuum line and ECU all the time, or this adjusting is worth nothing. Our engine has two throttle bodies and only one vacuum sensor on a left (factory adjuted body) and ECU has program only for one body and thinks that second body has absolutely the same settings as first one. If you doing your adjusting with disconnected sensor I am not sure that you are adjusting. I am attaching high-resolution pictures from the service manual: T-Connector I mentioned above: ---8<--- cut from service manual ---8<--- ---8<--- end of cut ---8<--- 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skiddum Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 Awesome thanks for this. This is gonna help me a ton. Especially since I got my bike and it only had 500 miles on it so not even broke in yet. So once I hit 2k I know what to do abs it'll save me big time 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimme Posted May 8, 2017 Share Posted May 8, 2017 I just did this today and it was super easy. Using forceps and flexible precision screw driver from Harbor Freight i didn't have to remove any body pieces at all. slipping the hoses on and off took less then a minute. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteinpa Posted August 9, 2017 Share Posted August 9, 2017 I just did this for the first time at 5k miles. I used my carb styx I've had since the 80's. Can't get them anymore the mercury is a controlled substance. I did it without removing any body panels and was very fast. I thought the idle sounded fine and it ran fine, wasn't expecting anything. It wasn't off much but when I rode it there was a big change. Much smoother, less vibration. smoother cruising at highway speed. Light throttle coming off closed throttle much smoother. So don't put it off, you can't hear it at idle, just do it. Got new red 2015 FZ-07 on 7/22/16! Black 2006 Honda ST1300 53K miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartofperformance Posted December 27, 2017 Share Posted December 27, 2017 Dear all, Would like to ask for advice, can this Manometer be used for syncing our FZ07?https://shopee.com.my/LCD-Digital-Manometer-Differential-Air-Pressure-Meter-Gauge-2Psi-±13.79Kpa-i.19042390.341448369 Very much appreciated cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zephyr Posted February 16, 2018 Share Posted February 16, 2018 On 12/26/2017 at 8:59 PM, heartofperformance said: Dear all, Would like to ask for advice, can this Manometer be used for syncing our FZ07?https://shopee.com.my/LCD-Digital-Manometer-Differential-Air-Pressure-Meter-Gauge-2Psi-±13.79Kpa-i.19042390.341448369 Very much appreciated cheers! Late response.... It should work fine, but you'll want to play around a bit to get familiar with operation. It should measure pressure differential between the two "nipples". Not sure how accurate it will be, so I would shoot for as close to 0.0 kPa as possible. I used a similar (albeit more expensive - work write-off) unit to do mine. Make sure that the tubing is equal lengths for both sides and that the tubing is secure (I used zip ties). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartofperformance Posted February 23, 2018 Share Posted February 23, 2018 On 2/16/2018 at 5:25 PM, Zephyr said: Late response.... It should work fine, but you'll want to play around a bit to get familiar with operation. It should measure pressure differential between the two "nipples". Not sure how accurate it will be, so I would shoot for as close to 0.0 kPa as possible. I used a similar (albeit more expensive - work write-off) unit to do mine. Make sure that the tubing is equal lengths for both sides and that the tubing is secure (I used zip ties). It is alright sir, I appreciate your response so very much! Very succinct answers really helped on my initial question! Have a good day sir, I will report back on my progress later on if I managed to actually pull it on my own. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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