How to: FZ-07 throttle body sync

[RobMoore]

Just got mine done thanks to all the info in this thread. The screw needed at least 1/4 turn, and I think it was far more than that. I think I'll check it again tomorrow just to be sure it's right. I bet I can do it in fifteen minutes now: 
[video src=http://youtu.be/n_Y-z9FLPBY]
 
Thanks a million for all the help!
 
Edit:  Did it one more time just to double check and see how quickly it could really be done.  Got it down to about ten minutes:
 
[video src=http://youtu.be/zy4wAhhjBjU]

 

 
 
That's awesome that you could do it without having to take the whole bike apart. That's what has been keeping me from doing this. I was waiting until I get a fuel controller so I could only have to strip it down once.
 
I may just go find some hose and that 90 degree screw driver and give this a shot.

[ornery]

You know what they say about "the right tool for the job." Been wanting one of those offset power drivers for years, so I was happy to buy that. Two other tools I'll use in the future, are my reading glasses and a good light focused in there. That'll knock it down to 7 or 8 minutes.
 
Somebody in this thread said they got it done with a jeweler's screwdriver, but I sure couldn't get my mits in there like that!

[bmwpowere36m3]

Did the TB sync over the weekend, bike has ~1.5k miles on it and it really wasn’t necessary (more on that later).
 
I used my homemade manometer (1/4" ID clear vinyl tubing), but the vacuum ports/nipples on the FZ-07 are ~1/8” in diameter. Using a combination of plastic barb-fittings (reducing) and tees, I reduced the manometer's tubing from 1/4" to 1/8" ID silicone vacuum hose. On the right cylinder you remove the vacuum cap and the manometer hose hooks up directly to the nipple/port. On the left cylinder you remove the vacuum hose (leads to MAP sensor), install a plastic vacuum tee so as to keep the MAP sensor connected while the manometer is hooked up.
 
My manometer is filled with 2-stroke oil (specifically Super-Tech TCW3) about 15” up. I used 2-stroke oil in the off-chance it got sucked into the engine (wouldn’t cause any problems). I calculated the [strong]manometer’s sensitivity should be ~1.635 mmHg per inch[/strong] (difference in manometer oil height). I verified this with a digital manometer. The factory spec for vacuum difference is [strong]10 mmHg (max)[/strong] and that [strong]equates to ~6” difference on my manometer[/strong].
 
Took the bike for a spin to warm up, put it on a rear stand, hooked up the manometer and started it. Manometer read about a 2” difference at idle and the same when the throttle was held steady at 2, 3 and 4k RPM. As the bike idled and the coolant temp crept up, the manometer reading would fluctuate a little. Sometimes one side would read a little higher, then the other and so on. Within 5 minutes of idling the coolant temp got up to around 230F, so I shut it off and I let it cool. I figured the fluctuations were due to changing/rising temp, so I grabbed a big fan and put it in front of the bike to give it some airflow.
 
Once the bike cooled a bit, I rechecked the sync. Now the coolant temps were rising much slower. When the coolant temp was around 173F (where it usually is when I’m riding) I adjusted the air screw maybe a 1/32 of turn… I mean a c-hair. Manometer reading was ~1” and stayed consistent with the throttle opened as well. I let the bike cool off again and checked it one more time, stayed the same.
 
Lessons learned:
 
[ul type=disc][*]“Oil” filled manometers are very sensitive, can drive you crazy to get it absolutely even and in my opinion isn’t need. Within 1-2” difference is VERY good.[*]Perform TB sync with the engine fully warmed up and do it quickly[*]Very small adjustments of TB screw make a noticeable difference[*]Motion Pro pilot screw tool (90* flat-head screwdriver) worked well
[/ul]
In my case the bike doesn’t run any better, but I figured as much given how good it was to start. It also aligns with my past expierence, where I did it on a 26 yr old bike with 7k miles (sat in a barn) and it wasn’t far out either. However it good to check periodically… just in case.

[ornery]

I couldn't get it to work when using a Tee on the left side. Not sure where the end goes, but the computer (or something) seemed to try and adjust it while connected.

[ornery]

(Insert Ralph's Avatar) Aug 16, 2015 11:40:43 GMT -4 Ralph said: Mine worked no problem with a T on the left, the line goes to the intake air pressure sensor.

This in reply to Ralph's post in this thread.  I want to keep this info together. 
I reconnected everything with a proper 1/8" Tee on the left.  It started and idled poorly.  I revved it and it stalled.  Reconnected with Tee removed.  Wouldn't start.  Reconnected with manometer removed.  Wouldn't start.  Turned key off, then on, then restarted, and it idled fine.
 
So, I hooked it back up with Tee installed, and it idled fine.  Manometer was off, so I adjusted it.  Turned it off, disconnected Tee, started and the manometer was off.  Reconnected Tee, started and manometer read OK.  Swapped out Tee one more time, started and manometer was off.   Reconnected Tee, started and it was OK.  Buttoned it up and that's where it is right now.  I shot video of the ordeal, but it will take forever to upload, and I don't think it's needed.
 
Bottom line is, having that pressure sensor connected does effect the balance, so have it in the loop when doing the sync.
 
Thanks Ralph!
 
Edit:  Here's the agonizing video:
 
[video src=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NskAiQ915yY]
 

[RobMoore]

I see a few people using 1/8 hosing at the end of their 1/4" tube for the homemade manometer. What would be wrong with just using 1/8" for the whole length of tubing?

[ornery]

Personally, I'm using tranny fluid, which is too thick for an 1/8" ID tube. Dyed alcohol or similar fluid would be more suitable for that tiny hose. But, the thicker fluid has a buffering affect. I suspect a thin fluid in a small tube would be jumping around too much, but I could be wrong. Wouldn't hurt to try it.

[RobMoore]

Tips for others from the job I just did.
 
Use the 1/4" inside tubing as stated with the 1/8" inside 1/4" outside diameter tubing to connect to the vacuum nipples and slip the thinner tubing inside the larger tubing.
 
Don't buy 8' of the 1/4", buy 12'. I had to lean my manometer against the front wheel because i didn't have much spare line. You should only need two feet of the 1/8" hose.
 
Don't use Stabil as a fluid or any similar viscosity. It is too thin and jumps up the line in bubbles. It was very difficult to get any kind of reading with half the fluid getting sucked up the line.
 
Use something as thick or slightly thicker than engine oil. I didn't have tranny fluid so I used engine oil.
 
Get the motion pro carb adjustment tool or similar 90 degree screw driver. I didn't have to take off a single body panel to do the job.
 
Get a set of long narrow needle nose pliers, preferably angle headed. Standard needle nose pliers can do the job, but it's a PITA on the right side, and if you drop the cap putting it back on you might lose it on the engine somewhere. Plenty of space for it to hide.
 
When you remove and reinstall the factory vacuum tube on the left side, use the thicker protective tubing that's wrapped around it to clamp onto so you don't damage the actual hose.
 
 
The job is super easy with the small list of tools and your homemade manometer.
 
Shopping list for ACE/Lowes/True-Value
 
1. 12' of 1/4" inside diameter hosing (probably 3/8" outside, but irrelevant)
2. Two 2' sections of 1/8" inside x 1/4" outside diameter hosing
3. Long thin angle head needle nose pliers or surgical style clamps shown in the previous video.
4. 1/8" inside diameter T vacuum fitting (for connecting left manometer hose in between factory vacuum hose and the throttle body nipple)
5. Transmission fluid
6. 90 degree screwdriver (call ahead to see if they have it. I ordered the motion pro tool)
7. 3' of 1"x4"
 

[eraser8]

Hi,
 
First, thanks a lot for this good procedure. Just got a question for you. There is an adjustment screw on both side. You said that you don't move the left side and you made adjustment on the right side. Is there some rules about that? why you don't change the left side instead? I know on carburators, there is always 1 MAIN carb that is your BASE carb and you adjust the other one. Is it the same with throttle bodies?
 
Finally, is there some specific vacuum values that should be set? Or simply set them equally is the important?
 
Thanks for all informations.
 
 

[bmwpowere36m3]

Left TB is the reference, they're values in the tech manual, just set them equal.

[rick]

FI is really a different ball game than carbetators. The biggest difference is that the throttle plates are completely closed in their bores with FI and all the air that enters themotor at idle passe thru an idle air control valve ( aka IAC) for which Yamaha has its own groovy name,
 
What yer adjusting is not a mixture screw, it's an air screw that serves to balance out any variances between the 2 throttle bodies. Don't know how Yamaha goes about making this so that the left side is used as a reference. On my Aprilia, one or the other TB is left closed. It's not always the same from bike to bike so, you basically have to find out which.
 
If you try to have both open, you will still be able to balance the TBs, but you will also have too much air at idle. Depending on just how much you open the one that should be closed, the ECU might see this (thru the O2 sensor) as an air leak or maybe a fault with the IAC valve that sits right between the 2 TBs and put the FI into some form of limp home mode. it'll run, but you won't be happy.
 
And nope, there's no specific vac value, though I suspect that right TB screw probably should have to be open more than 1 or maybe 1.5 turns from fully closed.
 
Keep in mind, this is only to adjust idle vac. Once the throttle plates are opened, the IAC does not do much as the air entering the motor can now get past the throttle plates.
 
At least we're controlling the throttle plates instead of the computer telling stepper motors to open and close those plates - as it sees fit
 
 

[wlaukaitis]

I mentioned this a few months ago and was torn apart by a user. WTF?

[eraser8]

FI is really a different ball game than carbetators. The biggest difference is that the throttle plates are completely closed in their bores with FI and all the air that enters themotor at idle passe thru an idle air control valve ( aka IAC) for which Yamaha has its own groovy name,  
What yer adjusting is not a mixture screw, it's an air screw that serves to balance out any variances between the 2 throttle bodies. Don't know how Yamaha goes about making this so that the left side is used as a reference. On my Aprilia, one or the other TB is left closed. It's not always the same from bike to bike so, you basically have to find out which.
 
If you try to have both open, you will still be able to balance the TBs, but you will also have too much air at idle. Depending on just how much you open the one that should be closed, the ECU might see this (thru the O2 sensor) as an air leak or maybe a fault with the IAC valve that sits right between the 2 TBs and put the FI into some form of limp home mode. it'll run, but you won't be happy.
 
And nope, there's no specific vac value, though I suspect that right TB screw probably should have to be open more than 1 or maybe 1.5 turns from fully closed.
 
Keep in mind, this is only to adjust idle vac. Once the throttle plates are opened, the IAC does not do much as the air entering the motor can now get past the throttle plates.
 
At least we're controlling the throttle plates instead of the computer telling stepper motors to open and close those plates - as it sees fit
 

Thanks for all informations. So, in brief, I never touch the left screw, just syncing with the right screw. right? And  how I know if there is too much or not enought air at idle? I guest to measure that, I need a real vacuum gauge? But there is no value to set it so...??
 
Thanks again for all that thread!
 

[avanti]

eraser8, you are NOT balancing the two sides independently, just setting them at the same vacuum reading (using whatever measurement instrument you choose) by adjusting the right side only via its screw, to match the reading of the left side.
 
...and, wlaukaitis, sorry about the response you got from whomever... there simply ARE all kinds.
 

[jerryv]

Good shopping list..... thanks!!
 

Tips for others from the job I just did.  
 
The job is super easy with the small list of tools and your homemade manometer.
 
Shopping list for ACE/Lowes/True-Value
 
1. 12' of 1/4" inside diameter hosing (probably 3/8" outside, but irrelevant)
2. Two 2' sections of 1/8" inside x 1/4" outside diameter hosing
3. Long thin angle head needle nose pliers or surgical style clamps shown in the previous video.
4. 1/8" inside diameter T vacuum fitting (for connecting left manometer hose in between factory vacuum hose and the throttle body nipple)
5. Transmission fluid
6. 90 degree screwdriver (call ahead to see if they have it. I ordered the motion pro tool)
7. 3' of 1"x4"

 

[rick]

eraser8, you are NOT balancing the two sides independently, just setting them at the same vacuum reading (using whatever measurement instrument you choose) by adjusting the right side only via its screw, to match the reading of the left side. 
 

yup, exactly, balance the right TB vac so it's equal to the left.  
The over all idle mixture (and everywhere else) is controlled by the map programmed into the ecu. At idle (and maybe up to some low rev just above) it runs closed loop - meaning the ecu reads the O2 sensor for mixture info and adjusts fueling appropriately (hopefully).
 
Its all very black box - when it works properly, it's wonderful. When it doesn't, it pretty much can be a real pita. 
 
 

[yamahaha]

I see a few people using 1/8 hosing at the end of their 1/4" tube for the homemade manometer. What would be wrong with just using 1/8" for the whole length of tubing?

I used around 16' 1/8" hose and two stroke oil. It works fine but it was a b*tch getting the oil to settle in the middle of the hose. 

[eraser8]

yup, exactly, balance the right TB vac so it's equal to the left.  
The over all idle mixture (and everywhere else) is controlled by the map programmed into the ecu. At idle (and maybe up to some low rev just above) it runs closed loop - meaning the ecu reads the O2 sensor for mixture info and adjusts fueling appropriately (hopefully).
 
Its all very black box - when it works properly, it's wonderful. When it doesn't, it pretty much can be a real pita. 
 
 

Thanks,
 
I will not bother with the right vaccum number . Simply equalize the left with the right will be fine. Thanks for all informations.
 
Maybe I have another question if you want. I have not problem of doing a home made manometer since it's really chead and it do the job, but does anyone already tried both (home made VS real manometer like Motion pro) and that could tell us if the real tool can give a better result than the DIY?
 
Thanks
 
 

[pantheraleo]

yup, exactly, balance the right TB vac so it's equal to the left.  
The over all idle mixture (and everywhere else) is controlled by the map programmed into the ecu. At idle (and maybe up to some low rev just above) it runs closed loop - meaning the ecu reads the O2 sensor for mixture info and adjusts fueling appropriately (hopefully).
 
Its all very black box - when it works properly, it's wonderful. When it doesn't, it pretty much can be a real pita. 
 
 

Thanks, 
I will not bother with the right vaccum number . Simply equalize the left with the right will be fine. Thanks for all informations.
 
Maybe I have another question if you want. I have not problem of doing a home made manometer since it's really chead and it do the job, but does anyone already tried both (home made VS real manometer like Motion pro) and that could tell us if the real tool can give a better result than the DIY?
 
Thanks
 

I just did mine over the weekend as part of my 12k service. It was way off, but about 1/4 turn tuned it right in.
 
I do have access to a sweet 'real' manometer. I didn't bother to bring it home for the job, because I thought my electronic air data could do the job. As it turns out, the pressures were out of the range of the device, so I ended up making a 1/4" clear tube one like everyone does.
 
I don't see how it would make any difference, honestly...but I could do a comparison since hooking up the tubes is the hard part. What makes you think it would?

[eraser8]

I just did mine over the weekend as part of my 12k service. It was way off, but about 1/4 turn tuned it right in.  
I do have access to a sweet 'real' manometer. I didn't bother to bring it home for the job, because I thought my electronic air data could do the job. As it turns out, the pressures were out of the range of the device, so I ended up making a 1/4" clear tube one like everyone does.
 
I don't see how it would make any difference, honestly...but I could do a comparison since hooking up the tubes is the hard part. What makes you think it would?

Hi, thanks for your reply. I'm asking that about the precision of the tool. Does the true manometer can be more precise than the DIY 1/4 tube with transmission oil? Maybe the kind of oil you put it it can make a difference in the precision?
 
Thanks
 

[pantheraleo]

I just did mine over the weekend as part of my 12k service. It was way off, but about 1/4 turn tuned it right in.  
I do have access to a sweet 'real' manometer. I didn't bother to bring it home for the job, because I thought my electronic air data could do the job. As it turns out, the pressures were out of the range of the device, so I ended up making a 1/4" clear tube one like everyone does.
 
I don't see how it would make any difference, honestly...but I could do a comparison since hooking up the tubes is the hard part. What makes you think it would?

Hi, thanks for your reply. I'm asking that about the precision of the tool. Does the true manometer can be more precise than the DIY 1/4 tube with transmission oil? Maybe the kind of oil you put it it can make a difference in the precision? 
Thanks

Maybe, I am willing to try with this Manometer to see. We use a red dyed manometer oil for this sort of thing. I noted that the dye is notably thinner than the Transmission Fluid I used this weekend.
 

[eraser8]

Hi alls,
 
Finally, I buyed the PDF format of service manual. All numbers are in the manual and following that, I will buy a vacuum gauge set to be sure that they are set to the right vacuum value. Yes, this means that if the LEFT one as a wrong value, I will reajust it to be in the spec.
 
Despite this, I think the DIY manometer can be a good, cheap solution to synchronize them. I'm just too picky, so, I will go for a vacuum gauge.
 
Thanks a lot for all informations.

[bmwpowere36m3]

I just did mine over the weekend as part of my 12k service. It was way off, but about 1/4 turn tuned it right in.  
I do have access to a sweet 'real' manometer. I didn't bother to bring it home for the job, because I thought my electronic air data could do the job. As it turns out, the pressures were out of the range of the device, so I ended up making a 1/4" clear tube one like everyone does.
 
I don't see how it would make any difference, honestly...but I could do a comparison since hooking up the tubes is the hard part. What makes you think it would?

Hi, thanks for your reply. I'm asking that about the precision of the tool. Does the true manometer can be more precise than the DIY 1/4 tube with transmission oil? Maybe the kind of oil you put it it can make a difference in the precision? 
Thanks

A manometer is as precise as the fluid (i.e., density) you choose.  The "lighter" the fluid, the greater the difference it'll show.  For MC carb/TB syncing any "oil" manometer is probably overkill.  Motion Pro sells a manometer, Carb Tune (or something along those lines) that used to use mercury (heavy fluid) and a very small scale.  My manometer filled with 2-stroke oil is ~15x as precise.
 
Also consider the maximum acceptable vacuum difference, 10 mmHG (IIRC).  That would equate to ~ 6" on my manometer… easy to see and adjust.  I got it to within 1-1.5" and called it good enough as the reading would shift as the engine temp crept up (I warmed the bike up first and eventually put a large house exhaust fan in front of it to stabilize the temps a bit) and after a rev or two.
 
 
 

[eraser8]

Yes, like I said, maybe the U-tube DIY tool will handle the job really good with ATF oil or maybe 2-stroke oil. With the carburator synchronizer gauge I bought, I will be able to set the right amount of mmhg in addition of setting them equally. It just a step further than the DIY tool. Does I really need it? I will see it next spring! But for 60$ for a twin gauge kit, I think it will worth the buy to keep my peace of mind.
 
 
 

[yamahaha]

I'm confused. Sitting on the bike I thought we were supposed to adjust the RIGHT throttle body. Can someone with a service manual please verify which one to adjust using "sitting on the bike" orientation?
 
I adjusted my right side. Only difference I noticed was a slight decrease in idle rpm. Otherwise, no difference.
 
Throttle body sync is overrated. If the bike idles smoothly and does not stutter/fart/miss at low rpms then its fine. At rpms over 2000 sync is moot. I hav'nt touched the wife's bike and it runs perfectly.
 
If you complain about a low speed miss, stalling under 2000 rpms, or hard starting a shop might check the sync. Go into the shop and ask for them do check the sync although you have no issues will, most likely, result in a sync charge with no sync done. Easy money.
 
I only checked sync on mine because I thought it started poorly but it seems they all turn over a bit before starting.
 
It's still a fun, fine tuning activity but one should not stress over it.