Guest Ralph Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 6C - 42F here today the ice as melted on the canal so went for it positively tropical after the last few weeks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ralph Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 Mine does not have that little silver dashpot. So that's very interesting that they'd have 2 set-ups. You'd think that we'd be more noise restrictive here in the states. I think yours are more restricted on ours they only breath through the snorkel at certain revs most of the time they breath through the flap at the back which is much bigger, on yours unless I am wrong they only breath through the snorkel, which is more restricted. Bike now feel smoother not that it ever felt rough only takes about a hour maybe two get some T pieces and a bit of fish tank air pipe so you can T in without cutting the org pipe work, take the plastic off leave the tank hardest part is getting a screw driver on the adjuster I bent a old screw driver but you can get the right 90 deg screwdriver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 I have a screw driver meant for this operation. It's has a flex shaft inside a tube to it can bend. I'm gonna give this a go w/o touching the tank. Pretty sure I saw someone say it's doable. I have a box filled with Ts and Ys and bits of hose collected over the years. I like to hook my gauges to one source before doing this to make sure they are even to begin with. Motion Pro's new vac gauges come with a nice manifold and adjusters to calibrate the 4 tubes. My set of gauges date back to the early 70s. One of these days I'll break down and buy new. I kinda assumed it breathed only thru that back snorkel. But as I've not had the tank off, have no idea for sure. Will have a looks at the online parts lists, maybe there's a decent drawing. Only way to know for sure if there's a power difference will be find a dyno run from your side of the pond. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ralph Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 Be interesting Rick how far out yours are before you touch them, seeing as yours doesn't stall. Mine was well in speck but getting it just right was worth the effort. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dannyfz07 Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 Not sure if this has been asked but what is MC oil? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ralph Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 Motor Cycle oil, at a guess, bike engines have the gears and clutch running in the engine oil so MC oil is formulated to take this into account, I have always used semi synthetic car oil but some wont agree with this but don't use any oil marked " Energy Conserving" the clutch wont like it. Have a look on the forum for a oil thread there's bound to be one it's like running in no one agrees with anyone about anything but some people are very knowledgeable and it will be worth a read. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 Be interesting Rick how far out yours are before you touch them, seeing as yours doesn't stall. Mine was well in speck but getting it just right was worth the effort. Actually, mine never stalled in the 1st 400 or so miles. But in the last 300 miles, even with me paying closer attention to my clutch work, it died on me a quite few times. There was one time where it coughed for a second just as I was letting out the clutch, but I pulled the lever just in time so it didn't die that time. I also noticed on my last ride of the season that my temp gauge was fluctuating quite a bit, sorta erratically, up and down over a 10F range - that was happening far too quickly for it to be just from the actual temps in the can changing. I pulled the connector on the sensor gave it a spritz with contact cleaner (own an Italian bike and this becomes the answer to almost everything) and that seemed to have fixed it - though I haven't actually ridden the bike since. I can't help but think on that LTFT learning to compensate for a wonky sensor or whatever causing the FI to run lean here and there.. So, if yours has responded so well with just a fine tuning, I'm actually hoping mine is out quite a bit at this point ( It's a bit over 700 miles so maybe reasonably "broken in", but hardly settled in) and getting both cylinders in sync will bring it back to those 1st 400 stall-less (s)miles. we're running 20+F below normal right now at both ends of the day and it looks like that's gonna be similar for at least another week. Maybe the covers can come off the 2 wheel toys before March is over. Sheesh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ralph Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 With mine it was just as you gave the throttle the slightest touch as the revs picked up it was like a little roughness as though the engine was not spinning fast enough and was on the point of kicking back I could sometimes force it to do it anyway I was out yesterday and tried a few times to force it to stall but nothing so maybe it's cured, according to the Yamaha tech pulling in the clutch retards the timing by about 5% so clutch adjustment could have some bearing on it, though I cant find any ref to it in the book. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 Yeah, that pretty much describes my experience. Just as you touch the throttle it just quits like someone reached over and flipped the kill switch. Don't ask how I know about that sorta prank. lol. Hmm, interesting - a 5% timing retard with the clutch lever pulled? I'd guess the only way the ECU knows this is thru the safety interlock switch. That will be an on/off sorta thing and not really affected by adjustment. Just depends on how far back the lever has to be pulled to activate that little switch. Is this some sort of an any-knock/ping feature? Or maybe they were trying to quell accidental wheelies. Can't say i've ever heard of this. Oh, btw, here's that dyno run http://www.cycleworld.com/2015/02/06/2015-yamaha-fz-07-naked-motorcycle-dyno-run-video-and-performance-chart/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dannyfz07 Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 Motor Cycle oil, at a guess, bike engines have the gears and clutch running in the engine oil so MC oil is formulated to take this into account, I have always used semi synthetic car oil but some wont agree with this but don't use any oil marked " Energy Conserving" the clutch wont like it. Have a look on the forum for a oil thread there's bound to be one it's like running in no one agrees with anyone about anything but some people are very knowledgeable and it will be worth a read. I figured that but wasn't sure aha thanks though! I've seen guys use ATF as it's easy to see. I think I'll stick with MC oil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 Motor Cycle oil, at a guess, bike engines have the gears and clutch running in the engine oil so MC oil is formulated to take this into account, I have always used semi synthetic car oil but some wont agree with this but don't use any oil marked " Energy Conserving" the clutch wont like it. Have a look on the forum for a oil thread there's bound to be one it's like running in no one agrees with anyone about anything but some people are very knowledgeable and it will be worth a read. I figured that but wasn't sure aha thanks though! I've seen guys use ATF as it's easy to see. I think I'll stick with MC oil Using ATF in place of motor oil in any internal combustion motor whether car, motorcycle, lawnmower, you name it, is just a disaster waiting to happen. You could consider using ATF in the front forks instead of fork fluid designed for such an application. But you'd have a dead motor pretty darn quick if put in a crankcase. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member fz07fanboy Posted April 22, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted April 22, 2015 A huge thanks for this detailed writeup. Followed every instruction and was able to accomplish everything. Did the sync first. Then installed DNA filter and EJK controller. Everything worked out great. Now just need to take it for a ride. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ralph Posted April 22, 2015 Share Posted April 22, 2015 I have used ATF in engines that have a separate oil for the clutch i.e. in the clutch bit and in front forks but never use it in the engine it's self, the MT/FZ uses the same oil for engine clutch and gearbox so don't use ATF. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member avanti Posted May 4, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted May 4, 2015 I want a woman-o-meter!!! (btw, I looked at the dwyer site and... which the heck manometer do I order??? They carry a gazillion and none of the specs mean anything to me--duh. THANKS!!!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ralph Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 I want a woman-o-meter!! To difficult to understand. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anips Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 [span style=font-size:10pt]Thanks for the how-to. I just did my sync and have another warning: watch out for the exhaust! I was kneeling down trying to adjust the screw and my knee touched the exhaust and now i'm gonna have some battle scars lol [/span] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregjet Posted May 10, 2015 Share Posted May 10, 2015 NOT REALLY A THROTLE SYNC POST BUT HAD TO REPLY RE OILS ATF works very well in wet clutchews. In fact many automatic designs have internal clutch plates. We all used ATF in out 2 stroke wet clutch cases as the oil of choice. It does not however have much in the way of antioxidants in it and if used in a crankcase will break down even faster than proper oil. ATF is useable in forks but the viscosity is measured differently from fork oil. Lightest ATF is about 30wt fork oil from the last reading. Most Fork oils have other properties which make them a better choice than ATF. Again , ATF has low antioxidant properties and breaks down in forks pretty quickly. Not sure why it doesn't break down quickly in auto boxes as well but it doesn't seem to. Go forth and modify my son...go forth and modify... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmwpowere36m3 Posted May 10, 2015 Share Posted May 10, 2015 NOT REALLY A THROTLE SYNC POST BUT HAD TO REPLY RE OILS ATF works very well in wet clutchews. In fact many automatic designs have internal clutch plates. We all used ATF in out 2 stroke wet clutch cases as the oil of choice. It does not however have much in the way of antioxidants in it and if used in a crankcase will break down even faster than proper oil. ATF is useable in forks but the viscosity is measured differently from fork oil. Lightest ATF is about 30wt fork oil from the last reading. Most Fork oils have other properties which make them a better choice than ATF. Again , ATF has low antioxidant properties and breaks down in forks pretty quickly. Not sure why it doesn't break down quickly in auto boxes as well but it doesn't seem to. ATF works in transmissions and forks... However when the oil is shared between the engine and transmission I would never recommend ATF. Some bikes have seperate oil for the gearbox, then it might be ok, not the FZ-07. ATF works in damper rod forks works too, like the FZ-07. For that matter many other hydraulic fluids as well). I think it's around a 10-15wt fork. I used it in my sport cruiser (Kawi 454). However in cartridge forks, I'd stick to 5wt fork oil. Fork oil isn't expensive and has specific additives, so that's what I typically use (Maxima racing fork and shock fluid). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregjet Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 In them old days we all used ATF in our forks caus that's all we could get. Std. forks were so badly damped that the heavier viscosity actually improved them. This is definitely no longer the case especially with cartridge and all usd forks. Get the right fork oil. As I said all our racing 2 strokes used ATF for the cases but , of course, 2 strokes don't use the engine oil in the crankcases. They DO however have the same oil for clutch and gears and ATF works VERY well. I keep forgetting that a lot of people now simple don't know anything about 2 stroke engines and don't realise that the actual engine is lubricated from the oil in the fuel ( or injected direct into the inlet and crankase to be burnt not from the oil in the engine cases. I miss real 2 strokes... Go forth and modify my son...go forth and modify... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anips Posted May 12, 2015 Share Posted May 12, 2015 I had the Check Engine Light go on the day after I did my throttle body sync as soon as I turned the key to on. Not exactly sure what it was and I think it was Code 14 if I remember correctly. Anyhow, I checked that everything was on correctly and it was, so I went ahead and started it and heard some suction noise for a split second and then the light went away. Anyone have any idea what it could have been? Light hasn't come back on for the past 100 miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmwpowere36m3 Posted May 12, 2015 Share Posted May 12, 2015 I had the Check Engine Light go on the day after I did my throttle body sync as soon as I turned the key to on. Not exactly sure what it was and I think it was Code 14 if I remember correctly. Anyhow, I checked that everything was on correctly and it was, so I went ahead and started it and heard some suction noise for a split second and then the light went away. Anyone have any idea what it could have been? Light hasn't come back on for the past 100 miles. Probably one of the vacuum lines that was disconnected to check the TB-sync. I would double check them and make sure their all fully-seated. You can also spray (sparingly) brake cleaner near hoses/gaskets to check for leaks as well (the idle RPM will increase when you hit a leak). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member fz07fanboy Posted May 12, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted May 12, 2015 It does sound like one a vacuum line. I would check the right throttle body vacuum cap. It either wasn't seated or blew off. Check the left one as well while your at it. A quick glance and you can see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anips Posted May 12, 2015 Share Posted May 12, 2015 It does sound like one a vacuum line. I would check the right throttle body vacuum cap. It either wasn't seated or blew off. Check the left one as well while your at it. A quick glance and you can see.That's what I thought too but I checked and they were both on fine. Perhaps starting the bike sucked the cap in to be nice and tight? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member noltz Posted May 16, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted May 16, 2015 Just did mine, was way off and now it has been corrected, 3 bucks on parts for home made manometer, the vacuum plug for the 2nd throttle body slipped my fingers and fell someone inside the bike, had to ghetto a setup until i can either find the plug or buy a new one lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howlinhoss Posted May 21, 2015 Share Posted May 21, 2015 So I read through all of the posts. Please correct me if I am wrong. We keep the left adjuster as is and adjust the right adjuster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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