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Second Service (4000 mile / 6000 mile service) DIY?


dburpee

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Either I cannot google for shet right now or there just aren't that many resources for doing the second service yourself. My (U.S.) manual says to do my second service at 4k miles so I am going to do it at 4k - I don't care what your tea-drinking or your maple-leafing manual says.  :P
 
That being said does anyone have any resources of what they did for the 4k service? The manual covers quite a lot of stuff which to me seems unnecessary for still a relatively new bike - but most of it is just "check, replace if necessary." How many of you guys did your second service themselves? What all did you do for it? Oil and filter is obvious... Lube all cables? Throttle body sync? Manual says to get it done but the dealer likes to charge up the ass for that and I don't have the tool for it. 
 
Thanks

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I just made sure the clutch cable was adjusted to spec, did oil/filter change, checked chain slack, doubled checked the triple tree for loose bolts and away i went... TB sych is not needed unless the bike is running/idling funny... Some will disagree with me about the TB sych, but to me thats a mind game your playing with your self thinking you need always be setting/checking your TB sych...spark plugs can be changed out 15k miles, them spark plugs are looooonnngggg like a glow plug ?... The cable lube tool can be purchased online, very common tool in the dirt bike world, cost less than $10... http://www.motosport.com/product?psreferrer=https%253A%252F%252Fwww.google.com%252F&pssource=true&segment=badger&key=MOTION-PRO-CABLE-LUBER&cc=us&adpos=1o1&creative=93575775025&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&product_id=MP-TOOL-075&gclid=CLzSyvimudICFcm1wAodsFcC5A
Little trick, use that keyboard air can to blow the crud out then hit with your prefered lube
 
I actually went thru majority of important bolts and nuts when i first got my bike and torqued them myself, that oil pan bolt was put on by Thor -_-

2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition...2015 fj-09- 120whp- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich Race Kit- tuned by 2WDW
 

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ducttapewd40

Agreed that the 4k service is mostly a thorough inspection. Most everything on there are things I'm going to notice just while washing it or normal riding. And I'm sorry but inspecting spark plugs at 4k and replacing at 8k is just ridiculous overkill. Modern spark plugs can easily last 100k miles and while I won't run them that long, maybe 20k, replacing at 8k isn't worth the time it takes to get to them.
 
I'm about 100 miles from my 4k and it's just going to be an oil change, good inspection, lube as necessary, clean and adjust chain, and maybe a throttle body sync.
 
How much do they charge for a throttle body sync at the shop anyway? It's a fairly easy thing to do and the tool can be bought for $90.00

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ducttapewd40
I just made sure the clutch cable was adjusted to spec, did oil/filter change, checked chain slack, doubled checked the triple tree for loose bolts and away i went... TB sych is not needed unless the bike is running/idling funny... Some will disagree with me about the TB sych, but to me thats a mind game your playing with your self thinking you need always be setting/checking your TB sych...spark plugs can be changed out 15k miles, them spark plugs are looooonnngggg like a glow plug ?... The cable lube tool can be purchased online, very common tool in the dirt bike world, cost less than $10...  
I actually went thru majority of important bolts and nuts when i first got my bike and torqued them myself, that oil pan bolt was put on by Thor -_-
Nice.  Someone else who agrees with me on throttle body syncs.  I've always been happy with checking my bikes once a few thousand miles after purchasing and then as necessary if I think they've gone out of sync (which to be honest, I haven't) or I'm in there anyway.  Never had to make a dramatic adjustment or even noticed an improvement afterwards.
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Added the cable luber to my post...
 
Not to drag the topic off track with the TB synch... To me a TB sych is far more important on a motor with more than 1 carburetor, on modern fuel injected bikes such as the FZ-07 and the sensors needed to run and the fuel tables can compensate for quite a bit...

2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition...2015 fj-09- 120whp- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich Race Kit- tuned by 2WDW
 

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I do all the services. I make sure to video oil changes and mileage for warranty purposes. IMO throttle body sync is a waste of time unless you are having issues. I did mine but never did the wife's and both bikes run identical.

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Added the cable luber to my post... 
Not to drag the topic off track with the TB synch... To me a TB sych is far more important on a motor with more than 1 carburetor, on modern fuel injected bikes such as the FZ-07 and the sensors needed to run and the fuel tables can compensate for quite a bit...
Would be true on a triple or 4 cyl. It's much harder to figure out inconsistencies on those type of engines..
If you're racing, you also will want to check it, to keep max performance.
However, for your day to day ride, it won't make a lot of difference, when one cylinder is pulling 5-10% less.
By about 10-12% your idle may be stuck at a high RPM, or the RPM could shoot through the roof on carbureted bikes, but fuel injected bikes keep the bike running the RPM it should.
 
I don't recall fuel tables being affected by TBs being out of sync, unless one of them has a non-working sparkplug (problem).
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I do all the services. I make sure to video oil changes and mileage for warranty purposes. IMO throttle body sync is a waste of time unless you are having issues. I did mine but never did the wife's and both bikes run identical.
Anything specific I should be doing for the 4k service other than what has already been mentioned? Thanks. 
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I just made sure the clutch cable was adjusted to spec, did oil/filter change, checked chain slack, doubled checked the triple tree for loose bolts and away i went... TB sych is not needed unless the bike is running/idling funny... Some will disagree with me about the TB sych, but to me thats a mind game your playing with your self thinking you need always be setting/checking your TB sych...spark plugs can be changed out 15k miles, them spark plugs are looooonnngggg like a glow plug ?... The cable lube tool can be purchased online, very common tool in the dirt bike world, cost less than $10... http://www.motosport.com/product?psreferrer=https%253A%252F%252Fwww.google.com%252F&pssource=true&segment=badger&key=MOTION-PRO-CABLE-LUBER&cc=us&adpos=1o1&creative=93575775025&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&product_id=MP-TOOL-075&gclid=CLzSyvimudICFcm1wAodsFcC5A Little trick, use that keyboard air can to blow the crud out then hit with your prefered lube
 
I actually went thru majority of important bolts and nuts when i first got my bike and torqued them myself, that oil pan bolt was put on by Thor -_-
Thanks for the info!
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So I did the 600 hundred mile service and I'm approaching 3000 miles. Should I change the oil now or wait for the 4000 mile service?
I would just follow the manual's service intervals, wait for 4k. 
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I changed the spark plugs same time as the valve adjustment and they looked fine at 27k. I changed the fork oil, brake fluid, coolant at 30k. Replaced the chain, sprockets, and tires every 15 to 20k. Oil changes every 3k. EBC brake pads, DID chain, LED headlight.

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I changed the spark plugs same time as the valve adjustment and they looked fine at 27k. I changed the fork oil, brake fluid, coolant at 30k. Replaced the chain, sprockets, and tires every 15 to 20k. Oil changes every 3k. EBC brake pads, DID chain, LED headlight.
How much off were the valves at that interval? You did one or more valve adjustments?
You ride the bike hard, or easy, and are located in a hot or colder climate?
 
Just asking to see if I perhaps could skip 16k mile valve check interval.
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It was off by .001 for only one at both 27k and 54k. I commute 80 miles one way. Slow in the morning fast in the evening provided I have enough gas. Northern California weather is usually 35-65 in the winter and 80-105 in the dinner.

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*summer. Oh I also changed the clutch plates at 54k. It was slipping in first just at startup. The mechanic said usually the clutch goes at around 30k but mine are freeway miles.

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Oil, filter, lube, and inspect EVERYthing... myself.

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That's pretty short for a clutch. I'd think it'd be able to do 50k miles the least.
Are you sure you didn't put wrong oil in there?

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That's pretty short for a clutch. I'd think it'd be able to do 50k miles the least. Are you sure you didn't put wrong oil in there?
It did do at least 50k... I changed it at 54k.
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