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I really hate this bike sometimes.


azuryn

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How tight did they need to make some of these screws. Almost all of the allen screws that hold the gas tank in place are just too tight. So now after removing 1 the others are stripped and even broke my screw extractor. All I wanted to do is swap the air filter, and now I have to deal with all this crap. 
 
I love this bike but damn it always finds a way to frustrate me to no end.

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I've found that when I go at the body bolts with an allen wrench and they're stubborn, a t25 torx bit does the job. I've never had difficulty removing a bolt with that. It does tend to scar the head a little though.

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I've found that when I go at the body bolts with an allen wrench and they're stubborn, a t25 torx bit does the job. I've never had difficulty removing a bolt with that. It does tend to scar the head a little though.
I wish it were that simple, I had some torx bits on hand and they too stripped the bolt. Even tried cutting a slot and trying to extract with a screw driver but the material is so damn flimsy that it just deforms. Think my only option left is to drill them out.
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Post title is a litle harsh, but then again so is giving us soft metal bolts torqued so tightly. That needs to be corrected asap if it already hasn't, and even if it has, it doesn't help the people stripping bolts on their bikes.
 

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Guest 2wheeler
How tight did they need to make some of these screws. Almost all of the allen screws that hold the gas tank in place are just too tight. So now after removing 1 the others are stripped and even broke my screw extractor. All I wanted to do is swap the air filter, and now I have to deal with all this crap.  
I love this bike but damn it always finds a way to frustrate me to no end.
I, as well as others, have had the exact same problem. I tried all the tricks I had available to get those f...ing bolts out, and only managed to  get 3 of them. I ended up taking my bike to a mechanic neighbor, and between his pneumatic chisel and a hammered-on oversize torx socket, the final bolt came loose. I was complaining a lot on the forum as you are now. 
I have wondered about it ever since, and I think it may be a mix of the factory over tightening the bolts and the weight of the gas tank on the bolts.
 
... in one of the rare times I will ever quote Bill Clinton, "I feel your pain"
 
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I think it varies depending who put your bike together. I know a lot is done by machines these days, but I'm pretty sure the gas tank and fairings and other things are put on by an actual person. Some people will tighten bolts more than others. On my bike, first time I came to take all the fairings off to lift the gas tank, I noticed all the fairing bolts were actually loose. So far no problem with any other bolts and after finding those so loose I checked everything else and all's good. Sorry to hear so many have trouble with bolts. :/

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any manufacturer that is not using electronically controlled wrenches or studiously calibrated torque wrenches is being derelict. I expect some engineer mistyped the spec in the BoM or is clueless about the proper torque values as they relate to size of fastener. Similar problem with axle torque and chain slackness. You'd think with all the Japanese Kaizen principles someone on the line would have hit the big ol' RED button and demanded an explanation of an engineer why they were spec'ing a value that was insane.
 
What I've seen of Yam bikes though, they suffer from stupid spec mistakes more often than the other guys. I'm guessing someone long ago published an internal spec sheet that everyone just blindly follows without questioning.
 

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Look up something called an "easy out". I used that when I stripped the fuel tank bolts, with great success.
I did use one, it broke it. 
screw-extractor.jpg
 
Did you use this one?  I find it difficult to believe that the Yamaha allen bolt made of cheese is going to break one of these things.  I've put an excess of 150+ft-lbs through one with a breaker bar extended by a pipe to try and get a seized axle nut out.  It did not break.  
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I did use one, it broke it. 
screw-extractor.jpg 
Did you use this one?  I find it difficult to believe that the Yamaha allen bolt made of cheese is going to break one of these things.  I've put an excess of 150+ft-lbs through one with a breaker bar extended by a pipe to try and get a seized axle nut out.  It did not break.  
 
Jeez, no way in hell did he break that. Not on that bolt, no way
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I think it was a different one, similar tip. I think part of the issue was that only the tip could get in there so it didn't get the full surface area to help apply the force, those button head bolt just didn't offer much to grab on to. I ended up having to drill out the core of the bolt then peel away the thread that was left inside. After a few hours of frustration it is finally over. Replaced those Allen head bolts with a more easy to work with hex head. (For reference they were M6 type bolts). Used a Dremel to adapt the stock air filter cover to give the DNA filter all the air it needs and put everything back together minus a push pin that rolled off my workbench into the great abyss. Uploaded the proper fuel map to my fuel controller and can finally hear that beautiful intake, can even hear it through an un-baffled Akra TI.
 
Hopefully others get luckier with their manufacturer torque specs, mine was damn near fused on. Was able to bend the head of the bolts with just a Flathead screw driver and a slot cut out on the bolt. Cheese is right or I have somehow acquired super powers.
 
Well it's over, thanks to all those that offered their advice. Hopefully this can be a good reference for similar situations.

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Yup same here...I stripped the head of one of the tank bolts and then after getting fed up, bashed the next size torx head into it, came out "fine" after that. Perhaps the bashing did the trick.
Oil pan bolt was also ridiculously over torqued. I thought I'd cracked the pan when it finally let loose. (I swore a lot that day)
I've had more than a few bolts and screws inconsistently torqued and strip on this thing.
 
Apparently Godzeerah was working the line that day, or perhaps some disgruntled jackazz'z who had a running bet as to who could intentionally cause the most problems for owners? Chinese sweatshop kids? I dunno. I dunno! Annoying as f though. >:(

Crush your enemies. See them driven before you. Hear the lamentations of their women.          Fuss Life.

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So have you guys replaced all of your bolts as you have removed them for service ? If so, do you have a spec for what you have replaced them with? Just thinking that with my ECU out and one half of the plastics off, then I might go ahead and replace while things are open.

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So have you guys replaced all of your bolts as you have removed them for service ? If so, do you have a spec for what you have replaced them with? Just thinking that with my ECU out and one half of the plastics off, then I might go ahead and replace while things are open.
If it wasn't an issue when you did opened it up I really don't think it would be an issue now. I just got really unlucky.
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So have you guys replaced all of your bolts as you have removed them for service ? If so, do you have a spec for what you have replaced them with? Just thinking that with my ECU out and one half of the plastics off, then I might go ahead and replace while things are open.
If it wasn't an issue when you did opened it up I really don't think it would be an issue now. I just got really unlucky.
I felt that the bolts were a bit soft when I changed the headlight and added the center stand.  I figured that if I needed to remove the bolts more than just a few times, then I would almost certainly be in the same boat.
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I havn't stripped any boltheads yet but I find them prone to crosstread more than usual, that goes for those that is treaded in the frame.

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most of these bolts, hand tight is plenty!
http://www.cncexpo.com/MetricBoltTorque.aspx
 
If you're paranoid about vibration-induced loosening use a dab of Purple (light) loc-tite. Completely unnecessary IMO.
It might be a good idea to buy yourself a matching tap and run it thru before putting things back together.

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any manufacturer that is not using electronically controlled wrenches or studiously calibrated torque wrenches is being derelict. I expect some engineer mistyped the spec in the BoM or is clueless about the proper torque values as they relate to size of fastener. Similar problem with axle torque and chain slackness. You'd think with all the Japanese Kaizen principles someone on the line would have hit the big ol' RED button and demanded an explanation of an engineer why they were spec'ing a value that was insane. 
What I've seen of Yam bikes though, they suffer from stupid spec mistakes more often than the other guys. I'm guessing someone long ago published an internal spec sheet that everyone just blindly follows without questioning.

I've seen that spec sheet and it said, "Make sure to tighten everything real tight, we don't want anything coming off easily." ;) 

Beemer

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No doubt Yamaha over did the torque on most everything on these bikes. I've managed to get everything apart without too much drama so far. Good six point sockets and high quality allen wrenches/sockets are a must.
The oil drain plug and rear axle were nuts. Not deal breakers by any means.

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impact allen keys, and a small battery powered 3/8 impact are god sent. It's not the best thing for tightening them down, but rather for removing them without damage. Probably the best 150$ I've ever spent for a tool.
 

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Just removed the front sprocket cover. Red locktite on the 3 allen screws. Felt like I was stripping out the holes as I removed them.

Got new red 2015 FZ-07 on 7/22/16!
Black 2006 Honda ST1300 53K miles.

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