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emmerich

Anyone have an RSC lever installed?

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emmerich
I bought an RSC lever a few months back and just recently went to install it.  The problem I'm having is the clutch does not fully disengage now with the new clutch lever/perch.  I tried adjusting at both ends and still cannot get it to disengage enough to let me push the bike in gear with the clutch pulled.
 
I've seen at least one member here say they installed the lever and was wondering how they got the setup to work.  They do make a "spacer" that pushes the lever about 1/4" further from the bar and I'm wondering if that's needed on our bikes to allow a longer pull and therefore full disengagement.  Although on the site is says this is not needed and only for those that want the engagement point further away.
 
Here's their site for anyone who's wondering:  http://www.righteousstuntmetal.com/international/levers.html

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emmerich
Update:  In case anyone runs into this issue later on down the line and finds this thread;  you do in fact need the spacer to disengage the clutch fully.  I reached out to Josh at RSC and he was able to reply and get it sorted.  As it turns out the FZ07 and FZ09 are the first production bikes to his knowledge that require the spacer to operate properly.
 
The weather is really nice here in the midwest for a few days so I'll have to swap the stock perch system back on in the meantime.  At least I wasn't lazy and removed the perch by sliding it off after removing the grip/controls rather than just destroying the clamp. 8)

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booboobusfz07
Now if only the lever was compatible with the clutch switch allowing in gear starts.

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CarGuy7a
I used the full length lever on mine and I did not need the spacer. I just adjusted my clutch lever free play according to the manual and everything came out fine. The clutch switch on the other hand was another issue. You either want to run the plug, unplugged all the time (which will only allow the bike to start with the trans in Neutral) or you need to install a normally open button that you can press while the clutch is pulled in and start the bike in gear. NEVER jump the clutch switch wires or the ECU will run in the Neutral idle map and it will run like crap while riding the bike.
 
If you have their shorty lever, then that may be the reason you needed the spacer.
 

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cybmx
I had the regular length RSC, no issues. Switched to Impatek now though, like the looks a little better
 

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Beemer
Don't have them, won't have them, they sound like a pain in the arse. I paid less for these (adjustable + free shipping) and they work great/no issues with them for the last 2 + years.
 
https://www.amazon.com/US-260-Motorcycle-Clutch-Levers-2016-Blue/dp/B00SWTLOCO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488028089&sr=8-1&keywords=US-260+Short+Motorcycle+Brake+and+Clutch+Levers+for+YAMAHA+MT-07%2CFZ-07+2014+2015+2016-Blue
 
 

Beemer

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skiddum
I like these. Much easier to install and such and you able to adjust the reach on it 490ffd3fafabbc1644e216d2fec97fdf.jpg
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cybmx
Don't have them, won't have them, they sound like a pain in the arse. I paid less for these (adjustable + free shipping) and they work great/no issues with them for the last 2 + years. 
https://www.amazon.com/US-260-Motorcycle-Clutch-Levers-2016-Blue/dp/B00SWTLOCO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488028089&sr=8-1&keywords=US-260+Short+Motorcycle+Brake+and+Clutch+Levers+for+YAMAHA+MT-07%2CFZ-07+2014+2015+2016-Blue
 

 
 
You guys are totally missing the point of having the rsc. That lever reduces the clutch effort by increasing travel a little. Therefore, you can easily pull the clutch with one finger, and for some people, the longer travel will make the clutch feel easier to engage too.

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skiddum
If you adjust the settings right it should be easy to pull anyway. The one I got has the adjustments to make it so it's an easy pull. I've got mine set close to my grips cause I've got small hands. But it's super easy
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skiddum
But I do like the lifetime warranty even crash

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booboobusfz07
Don't have them, won't have them, they sound like a pain in the arse. I paid less for these (adjustable + free shipping) and they work great/no issues with them for the last 2 + years. 
https://www.amazon.com/US-260-Motorcycle-Clutch-Levers-2016-Blue/dp/B00SWTLOCO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488028089&sr=8-1&keywords=US-260+Short+Motorcycle+Brake+and+Clutch+Levers+for+YAMAHA+MT-07%2CFZ-07+2014+2015+2016-Blue
 

You guys are totally missing the point of having the rsc. That lever reduces the clutch effort by increasing travel a little. Therefore, you can easily pull the clutch with one finger, and for some people, the longer travel will make the clutch feel easier to engage too.
 
 
Also changes the fulcrum point changing the leverage against the cable.

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skiddum
From what I've seen though this is more for stunt people. I like the racing stuff. But I'm getting a higdonion cage for the front cause his new sole offers a very nice skid plate/belly pan. But his is more adding onto the frame. That way if something gets hurt is the sub frame not the actual bike itself. That way if it is destroyed you can just swap it out and spare the bike

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CarGuy7a
From what I've seen though this is more for stunt people. I like the racing stuff. But I'm getting a higdonion cage for the front cause his new sole offers a very nice skid plate/belly pan. But his is more adding onto the frame. That way if something gets hurt is the sub frame not the actual bike itself. That way if it is destroyed you can just swap it out and spare the bike
The shorty RSC lever definitely is a stunt oriented setup where they do alot of clutch up wheelies. The full length lever like the one I have is a 2 finger lever setup which I prefer for street riding. It allows you to keep a firm grip on the left side better than using all 4's to pull the clutch in. Also with the added easier pull of the clutch I can use the clutch all day without fatigue. I think their XL length lever is closer to stock length which I was not a fan of. 
I should also add for the OP that I had to do some adjusting down on the engine side of the clutch cable as well so I could get the adjuster nut on the perch right in the center of it's overall travel. After I did that I just set the clutch up normally and everything worked fine.
 

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skiddum
The problem with that is to many new people don't know how to properly clutch as is. Either ride it to much or don't shift properly and it can really hurt the clutch and engine

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Beemer
Don't have them, won't have them, they sound like a pain in the arse. I paid less for these (adjustable + free shipping) and they work great/no issues with them for the last 2 + years. 
https://www.amazon.com/US-260-Motorcycle-Clutch-Levers-2016-Blue/dp/B00SWTLOCO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488028089&sr=8-1&keywords=US-260+Short+Motorcycle+Brake+and+Clutch+Levers+for+YAMAHA+MT-07%2CFZ-07+2014+2015+2016-Blue
 

You guys are totally missing the point of having the rsc. That lever reduces the clutch effort by increasing travel a little. Therefore, you can easily pull the clutch with one finger, and for some people, the longer travel will make the clutch feel easier to engage too.
I get that so I'm not missing the point. I'm sorry but you just don't understand that my shorties can also be easily operated with one finger and the engagement point is much closer in since they're adjustable, which I prefer. I'm not saying they're not good, just that they're not for me nor the only easily operable clutch levers. 

Beemer

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762mm
You guys are totally missing the point of having the rsc. That lever reduces the clutch effort by increasing travel a little. Therefore, you can easily pull the clutch with one finger, and for some people, the longer travel will make the clutch feel easier to engage too.
I get that so I'm not missing the point. I'm sorry but you just don't understand that my shorties can also be easily operated with one finger and the engagement point is much closer in since they're adjustable, which I prefer. I'm not saying they're not good, just that they're not for me nor the only easily operable clutch levers.
Jake The Gardensnake has one so obv nothing is as good as the RSC
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Beemer
I get that so I'm not missing the point. I'm sorry but you just don't understand that my shorties can also be easily operated with one finger and the engagement point is much closer in since they're adjustable, which I prefer. I'm not saying they're not good, just that they're not for me nor the only easily operable clutch levers.
Jake The Gardensnake has one so obv nothing is as good as the RSC
Obviously, the King has spoken so the discussion is closed and off with my head! lol! x_x  

Beemer

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762mm
Jake The Gardensnake has one so obv nothing is as good as the RSC
Obviously, the King has spoken so the discussion is closed and off with my head! lol! x_x
my china shorties are superb, best 20$ I have spent on the mt07
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spyder84
Just getting through installing an RSC clutch lever. I'll be leaving the clutch switch as is (not jumping the wiring). Still haven't found any concrete answers regarding this being an issue. I know it'll only start in neutral and that the idle is now higher when in gear and clutch lever pulled in. Just want to make sure it doesn't do anything funny with engine mapping or anything. Anyone have any answers?

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cybmx
Just getting through installing an RSC clutch lever. I'll be leaving the clutch switch as is (not jumping the wiring). Still haven't found any concrete answers regarding this being an issue. I know it'll only start in neutral and that the idle is now higher when in gear and clutch lever pulled in. Just want to make sure it doesn't do anything funny with engine mapping or anything. Anyone have any answers?
 
 
I've been riding like that for almost two years now track/street, no problems whatsoever

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CarGuy7a
Just getting through installing an RSC clutch lever. I'll be leaving the clutch switch as is (not jumping the wiring). Still haven't found any concrete answers regarding this being an issue. I know it'll only start in neutral and that the idle is now higher when in gear and clutch lever pulled in. Just want to make sure it doesn't do anything funny with engine mapping or anything. Anyone have any answers?
I've been riding like that for almost two years now track/street, no problems whatsoever
Yes you want to leave the clutch switch wires open/unplugged and not jumped. If you jump the two wires and leave them jumped, the bikes mapping will go into an idle map where the fueling is not correct for riding conditions and it will run poorly. There is a way around this though if you want to still be able to start the bike in gear IE if you stall at a light with it in 1st and need to fire it quickly. Get a normally open switch like a dirtbike kill switch and wire it to your clutch switch wires and mount it on your handle bars where you can reach it quickly. When you push the button it will tell the ECU the clutch is pulled in so you can start the bike in gear. I run a setup like this and I never hit the button unless an emergency engine start is needed. 

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br4nd0n
On 2/25/2017 at 3:34 AM, CarGuy7a said:

I used the full length lever on mine and I did not need the spacer. I just adjusted my clutch lever free play according to the manual and everything came out fine. The clutch switch on the other hand was another issue. You either want to run the plug, unplugged all the time (which will only allow the bike to start with the trans in Neutral) or you need to install a normally open button that you can press while the clutch is pulled in and start the bike in gear. NEVER jump the clutch switch wires or the ECU will run in the Neutral idle map and it will run like crap while riding the bike.
 
If you have their shorty lever, then that may be the reason you needed the spacer.
 

Do you have any pictures or video of this? I really screwed mine up trying to install and now it won't disengage at all...

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bakamoto

Little late on her but I gotta say, Josh is a real cool dude that makes quality levers.  My buddy had one on his sumo and it was crazy how light the pull was. Got mine coming in the mail right now. For anybody in the future who has questions about install I’ll have a video on it soon.

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br4nd0n

I recommend figuring out where clutch currently engages/disengages on the clutch basket side so you have a general idea as to where you should aim for. I didn't and wound up having the bike lurch forward and stall a few times before I got it to where it needed to be, which is obviously not great for it.

Edited by br4nd0n

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NikitaUCLA
On 5/15/2018 at 8:57 AM, bakamoto said:

Little late on her but I gotta say, Josh is a real cool dude that makes quality levers.  My buddy had one on his sumo and it was crazy how light the pull was. Got mine coming in the mail right now. For anybody in the future who has questions about install I’ll have a video on it soon.

Okay. Where's the video?

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