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pgeldz

UPDATE!!! Motul 300V Factory Line oil review...

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pgeldz
UPDATE:
 
So, When I first changed to Motul 300v Factory Line 15w50, the temps here were regularly in the triple digits during the time I ride (mid morning/early to late evening).
 
It isn't really that hot anymore, only sometimes right in the middle of the day when I'm ususally not riding.
 
Now, during the times I actually ride, it's getting quite cooler.  It was 76F when I left for work Friday morning.
 
With that said, I figured I'd change back to 10w40.  I got the same Motul 300v Factory Line in a 10w40 and changed my oil today with new filter, ect.
 
The reason I'm updating this thread is because of the temperature difference.
 
With the stock YamaLube non-synthetic oil, I was seeing temps of 183F when the outside air temp on the bike read 90F going 70mph.  In stop and go traffic, it would go as high as 220F.
 
With the Motul 300v Factory Line 15w50, I was seeing temps of 180F when the outside air temp on the bike read 100F going 70mph.  In stop and go trafic, it would go as high as 215F
 
Today with the Motul 300v Factory Line 10w40, I was seeing temps of 178F when the outside air temp on the bike read 106F!!! (going 70 mph)  In stop and go traffic, it never got past 196F, but outside air temp read 102F, not 106F at that point.
 
In addition, the 10w40 seems to "free" up the motor a little more, and throttle response is even more crisp than when changing to the 15w50 the first time.
 
I'd say out of a scale of 1-5 (5 being the best), throttle response with YamaLube non-synthetic was a 2, the Motul 15w50 would be a 4, and the Motul 10w40 would be a 5.
 
The transmission feels the same as with the Motul 15w50, smooth as silk.
 
Just wanted to keep everyone up to speed on my latest findings.  Motul 300v Factory Line 10w40 is now my oil of choice I think from here on out :)
 
 
- Paulie
 
 
 
Hey everyone...
 
Just thought I'd pass my experience along with some new oil I tried - Motul 300v Factory Line 15w50.
 
I told myself I'd change to a full synthetic at 1,500 miles.  I turned 1,500 over the weekend so it was time to make good on my word :)
 
Up to this point I've been using Yamalube 10w40 non synthetic with no issue.  When it was time to make the switch, I did a bunch of research (I'm fanatical about bikes and cars in general).
 
The ones that kept coming up that I could get locally were:
 
Shell Rotella T6 5W40
 
Amsoil Motorcycle oil 10W40
 
Motul 300v Factory Line 15w50
 
I decided on the Motul because in my research I've found it's a thin 15w50 after its' get broken in, and since I live in a super hot climate I thought that'd be ideal since most people recommend a 20W50 (which I think is too thick for a new bike with 1,500 miles, regardless of climate conditions).
 
 
This stuff is like no other.  It's almost a fluorescent green color, and smells like bannas - I kid you not.  They advertise up o a 1.3 HP gain just by using this oil alone, and lower temps. I've seen the HP gains proven on the dyno, but usually with the thinner viscosities. Even so, this particular 15w50 is pretty thin compared to some other brands after it's broken in as I mentioned.  I broke this oil in here in Las Vegas over the weekend where the air temp on my bike at 70mph read 106 degrees, and ran it hard. Put over 100 miles on it this way trying to break it in.
 
 
 
I can tell you the bike loves it. It ran anywhere from 2-6 degrees cooler at highway speeds, and felt like it had more response on the top end. Best of all though was the shifting. It's SO MUCH SMOOTHER! A lot of the notchiness is gone, and the mechanical "clunk" of changing gears is deeply muted to a much more dampened positive "thunk" sound.
 
 
Think I'll run it until it starts getting colder, and then change to the same stuff but in a 10W40 wt.
 
 
So far so good though.
 
:)
 
- Pauile
 
 
 
 

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olderthandirt
A change from regular oil to ANY brand of full synthetic oil will make a bike run cooler and shift smoother. So really...this doesn't have a thing to do with the brand of oil.
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Guru
Thanks for the review. I haven't considered going full synthetic yet, but I might just do it after your write up. The shift clunk bothers me.
I never heard of breaking in oil.

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manuel
Cool! I have Motul in my Passat, my BMW (engine, transmission and differentials) and it will for sure go into my FZ-07 at some point...staying with Yamalube for this season only.
 
One of the best synthetics out there, and in my case I have very good, long history with it. I trust it.
 
 

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pgeldz
A change from regular oil to ANY brand of full synthetic oil will make a bike run cooler and shift smoother. So really...this doesn't have a thing to do with the brand of oil.
 
 
Probably true, especially when using the same viscosity.
 
What I didn't expect were these kind of results going to a thicker viscosity.
 
THAT, is not typical...

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fechner
1.3 HP gain by using different oil? ....Something sounds fishy.
 
Edit: Reading through literature, 1.3% HP Gain... more reasonable, still skeptical though.
 

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cassecou
A change from regular oil to ANY brand of full synthetic oil will make a bike run cooler and shift smoother. So really...this doesn't have a thing to do with the brand of oil.
Probably true, especially when using the same viscosity.
 
What I didn't expect were these kind of results going to a thicker viscosity.
 
THAT, is not typical...
Thanks for the heads up pgeldz, but the thickness will only be noticeable in the winter, when thinner will stay thinner through colder temperatures and thicker might just stay, well, thicker. In summer, thinner or thicker, they will still stay thin. Still, keep on testing, and let us know what you think.
 

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pgeldz
Probably true, especially when using the same viscosity. 
What I didn't expect were these kind of results going to a thicker viscosity.
 
THAT, is not typical...
Thanks for the heads up pgeldz, but the thickness will only be noticeable in the winter, when thinner will stay thinner through colder temperatures and thicker might just stay, well, thicker. In summer, thinner or thicker, they will still stay thin. Still, keep on testing, and let us know what you think.

 
 
That really only depends on the shear strength of the oil. Some oils shear down to thinner viscosities faster than others. Assuming a 40w will stay a 40w, and a 50w will stay a 50w, you should notice a difference at warm operatimg temperature, even in the summer.
 
Normally, with the thicker viscosities, the bike will run slighter hotter, and rev up slower than with thinner oil.
 
My thing with the Motul 300v 15w 50 was that I found it to be the opposite for a thicker oil, although the Motul 300v is sorta known to act like a thinner oil than its label suggests :)

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planetwister
Your review describes all syn. Oil Lol I personally use Amsoil

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Guru
Thanks for the update. Very useful information.
This thread made me switch to Shell Rotella T6 5W40, mainly because I couldn't find Motul here. I think the bike likes it and I know I do. The shifts are smoother. I do not notice any difference in temperature compared to the non synthetic Yamalube.
 

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fechner
Interesting findings Paulie! I will consider switching to Motul after I run out of my yamalube. I noticed since I had my first oil change the temps are running higher. With the break in oil I never saw temps above 210F. Now I will see temps around 225F when sitting in traffic. I'd prefer running cooler.

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pgeldz
Your review describes all syn. Oil Lol I personally use Amsoil
I'm sure most synthetic oil will make a bike run slightly cooler and help the transmission shift smoother, but not all.  Depends on the chemical make up and additives of the oil. 
And you don't usually see comparisons of just how much cooler the bike will actually run, which is why I updated this post.
 
I thought it was interesting the bike ran cooler with thicker viscosity Motul as compared to the OEM non-synthetic.  I mean, you expect it to run cooler with syn, but I thought the thicker viscosity would cancel out any temp difference and be a draw.  It didn't...it still ran cooler.
 
Then when I used the Motul in the OEM weight of 10w40 it ran ever cooler, in hotter conditions.  Didn't expect that either.
 
Funny you mentioned Amsoil...I actually have some here in the garage :)
 
- Paulie
 
 
 
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manuel
Lower running temperatures are a welcome side effect of using synthetic oils. Generally they are better than standards mineral oils at minimizing the internal friction, hence the lower temps
The characteristics that I appreciate the most are: better oxidation stability, shear resistance provided by the ester base (and, in this case, the Motul-specific additives) and improved cold flow performance.
 

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booboobusfz07
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/
 
Motul has some of the best antiwear characteristics according to this guy's study. Ranks 4 outve 150 different oils.
Just wish it wasn't so expensive lol not so down for a 50$ oil change

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booboobusfz07
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/
 
Motul has some of the best antiwear characteristics according to this guy's study. Ranks 4 outve 150 different oils.
Just wish it wasn't so expensive lol not so down for a 50$ oil change

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Beemer
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/ 
Motul has some of the best antiwear characteristics according to this guy's study. Ranks 4 outve 150 different oils.
Just wish it wasn't so expensive lol not so down for a 50$ oil change
Should I take some Visine 10w 40 before reading all that?! 
 
 
 
 

Beemer

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booboobusfz07
Lol I only skimmed it. But going down to actual rankings its pretty cool.
The motul is like 4 and Mobil 1 4t is like 40 something.

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Beemer
Are all these synthetics safe for our bikes? I'm looking at the listed [HASH]11 and more affordable Mobile 1 5W-30, 5 qt. at Walmart for $23.88.

Beemer

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bmwpowere36m3
As long as its non-EC… you'll be fine.  Now 5W-30 seems a little thin, but would probably work just fine.
 
api-circle.jpg
 

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booboobusfz07
The oils in that list are predominantly car oils.
Your best bet is to use a dedicated 4t oil. Although ALOT of people have good results with rotella
If all you want is affordable use some valvoline synthetic. 35$ for 6 quarts cheapest I've found for a synthetic 4t
Also rotella is a good option. Their conventional sells around 12-15$ 5qt while the t6 full synthetic is around 20-25$ 5qt

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bmwpowere36m3
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/ 
Motul has some of the best antiwear characteristics according to this guy's study. Ranks 4 outve 150 different oils.
Just wish it wasn't so expensive lol not so down for a 50$ oil change
 
 
Don't read too much into that list... It doesn't tell the whole oil lubrication story. He only tests the relative film strength of various oils or boundary lubrication.
 
Not too much is mentioned about VI improvers and oil viscosity loss due to shear. That said Motul 300V is amazing oil and $$$.

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Cruizin
Redline, Lucas Oil, Motul, they are all great oils. But again, back in the day we didn't have motorcycle specific oils and somehow, I got mega miles out of my bikes. Running the old SAE 30 weight car oil.
 
Oil manufacturers love internet forums though... Bastards should give me commission.
 
But they won't like this next statement. You can use all the most expensive oil in the world that you can find.
 
But they wont protect your engine as well as using cheap oil and changing it and the filter 1000 miles sooner than the manual suggests.
 
Go watch some factory race teams and alot of em are using Castrol Semi Synthetic oil.
 
Yep, semi synthetic works great and is cheap.
 
The Shell Rotella has also been tested over time on internet forums all over the world and with great long lasting results.
 
Then, there are guys like my Neighbor who run the cheapest oil they can find, often car oil, and change their oil every 2,500 miles and have engines last 140,000 miles or more.
 
I use Rotella, change it and my filters every 2500 miles and my engines last. I even suspect that I could still use car oil like I did in the old days.
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thomascrown
 
I run motul 7100, and I'm generally bouncing back and forth between 169 and 174 when cruising. Sustained high speed will get me to 178.

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