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My Naked FZ-07 Track Build


howlinhoss

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Looks good. I'll try not to fondle your bike too much at the track. 
Any reason why you went with the linkage as opposed to lengthening the shock?
No particular reason except that I purchased the link at the end of the summer to use with the stock shock. Just recently purchased the KTech.
Makes sense.  I was curious if there was a specific issue you were trying to resolve with the K-Tech.  It looks like quite a few of the 07's on here went with K-Tech.

Yams and Ham!

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Small update. Got my Chinese rear seat cowl on. Snapped right into place, no issues. Quality seems pretty good for the price. I can't wait till it's nice out so I can have more work room in my basement and I can get some better shots of the bike.
 
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No updates as I am waiting for my shock to arrive. Once I get it I will slap it on and try to get more photos.
 
In the meantime I am picking up this little beast on Saturday. It is a 2006 TTR 125 set up for mini moto. Gonna do some mini moto racing this year.
 
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Bought my daughter the big wheel version quite a few years ago, probably will keep forever, nice little engine, congrats! Looks like yours has a taller seat, that would be nice.

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There is still a 19" on the front. Stock 100 rules don't allow for a smaller front otherwise I would rock a 16" or 17" for better turn in. The Service Pavilion sets these up really nice.

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Ah, I should have looked closer, so stock rims too, well that keeps costs down. I'll have to look up Service Pavillion to see what that's about.

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The revised K-tech spring is in. So a quick note on why this order took so long.
 
In late Nov K-tech started shipping Race-spec shocks for street duty because of lack of inventory. I didn't know at the time that there even was a race spec option, but on the PO I had put for race use, so winning? But there is an IMO most unwelcome feature - race spec shocks come with a 140N/mm spring as the default instead of the street's 115. Now going up in rate for race use is not a bad idea but 20+N/mm worth!?!?!? 5N/mm sure, no problem...
 
I have a copy of the build sheets and there is a valving change between the units but I haven't calculated the curves. I'll create a thread for that some day.

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The revised K-tech spring is in. So a quick note on why this order took so long. 
In late Nov K-tech started shipping Race-spec shocks for street duty because of lack of inventory. I didn't know at the time that there even was a race spec option, but on the PO I had put for race use, so winning? But there is an IMO most unwelcome feature - race spec shocks come with a 140N/mm spring as the default instead of the street's 120. Now going up in rate for race use is not a bad idea but 20N/mm worth!?!?!? 5N/mm sure, no problem...
 
I have a copy of the build sheets and there is a valving change between the units but I haven't calculated the curves. I'll create a thread for that some day.
Thanks for the update. So does KTech only provide a 120N/mm and 140N/mm spring? Is the 120N/mm spring suitable for a 170 lb fully geared rider on the track?
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You can get any rate you want that they carry. I'm not sure they have a 125 off the top of my head. Definitely have 130. Stock is 115 for up to ~175lb rider suited up on the street. So running a 120 is fine for track at least as a starting point.

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You can get any rate you want that they carry. I'm not sure they have a 125 off the top of my head. Definitely have 130. Stock is 115 for up to ~175lb rider suited up on the street. So running a 120 is fine for track at least as a starting point.
So,  My ktech probably isnt set for my weight, 225, if i want to take it on the track?

ATGATT... ATTATT, two acronyms I live by.
 

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what spring do you have @sorkyah ?
One that came with it was a 46-140-130 And that is a mistype, im 235 not 225

ATGATT... ATTATT, two acronyms I live by.
 

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what spring do you have @sorkyah ?
One that came with it was a 46-140-130 And that is a mistype, im 235 not 225
Have you set your rear sag?  If you can get the sag between 1" to 1.5" then your spring rate might be fine.  If you can not, then your spring rate is way off.  The lesser sag is for racing and more sag for street. 
My Nitron R3 came with a 675 lb/in spring. (118 N/mm)  I was not able to get enough sag for street riding.  Only 1.125", I wanted closer to 1.5".  So, I got a 625 lb/in spring to try.  (109.5 N/mm)  That allowed 1.375" of sag.  The Nitron springs are 6" long and the shock body would not allow me to remove anymore preload from the spring.  A shorter spring would have helped as well, but the next size down was a full 1" shorter.
 
Anyways, my main point of posting is for you to check your sag.  That is the first step in setting the suspension.  If that is off, then it needs to be addressed.
 
Edit: I weigh 180 pounds with gear.
 
Edit again with a video I found....
 

 
 

Craig Mapstone
Upstate New York

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One that came with it was a 46-140-130 And that is a mistype, im 235 not 225
 
My chart says 130 is on the money.
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My Nitron R3 came with a 675 lb/in spring. (118 N/mm)  I was not able to get enough sag for street riding.  Only 1.125", I wanted closer to 1.5".  So, I got a 625 lb/in spring to try.  (109.5 N/mm)  That allowed 1.375" of sag.  The Nitron springs are 6" long
 
What is the sag with no rider on-board? That's also an important number. So how much preload on the 625 spring to get that 35mm of sag? That Nitron uses 6" springs is actually very helpful. It means you can run any standard Eibach coil-over spring.
 
 
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More excited to have received my KTech shock than watching the Superbowl. It's so beautiful. Can't wait to get it installed this week.
 
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My Nitron R3 came with a 675 lb/in spring. (118 N/mm)  I was not able to get enough sag for street riding.  Only 1.125", I wanted closer to 1.5".  So, I got a 625 lb/in spring to try.  (109.5 N/mm)  That allowed 1.375" of sag.  The Nitron springs are 6" long
What is the sag with no rider on-board? That's also an important number. So how much preload on the 625 spring to get that 35mm of sag? That Nitron uses 6" springs is actually very helpful. It means you can run any standard Eibach coil-over spring. 

I don't remember the sag with no rider.  I did not know it was important so paid little attention to it.  I also do not remember the preload amount.  I'll have to take these measurements again.  I ran out of room to remove preload with the 675 lb/in spring, so I needed either a softer spring or shorter spring.  I went with the softer spring. 
The Nitron uses 2.25" I.D. springs which is a common spring size in the states, so that is good as well.

Craig Mapstone
Upstate New York

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Made some progress tonight. Here are some updates and pictures to follow.
 
K-Tech shock is installed. This is no paired with my AP Moto ride height link I previously purchased. No major issues with the install except I had to add some washers to the mounting point for my SC Project exhaust. This gave me more clearance so the swing arm would not rub the exhaust. Additionally, I did not like the bend of the provided compression reservoir mount so I bent it inwards to avoid damage during a crash.
 
After getting the shock installed, I mounted/aligned the rear wheel, chain slack set, and most importantly I installed a new Gilles rear axle nut to replace stock. The Gilles rear axle nut is really nice, but if I were to buy again I would go with ProBolt due to cost.
 
When I sat on the bike to test everything out, I immediately noticed the ride height change. I am more on my toes instead of flat footing at 5'7".
 
The shock, link, Woodcraft clip ons, AP Moto Rearset plates and aftermarket rearsets give my FZ a really nice aggressive stance which is what I was shooting for. I cannot wait to test it out at the track!

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Made some progress tonight. Here are some updates and pictures to follow. 
K-Tech shock is installed. This is no paired with my AP Moto ride height link I previously purchased. No major issues with the install except I had to add some washers to the mounting point for my SC Project exhaust. This gave me more clearance so the swing arm would not rub the exhaust. Additionally, I did not like the bend of the provided compression reservoir mount so I bent it inwards to avoid damage during a crash.
 
After getting the shock installed, I mounted/aligned the rear wheel, chain slack set, and most importantly I installed a new Gilles rear axle nut to replace stock. The Gilles rear axle nut is really nice, but if I were to buy again I would go with ProBolt due to cost.
 
When I sat on the bike to test everything out, I immediately noticed the ride height change. I am more on my toes instead of flat footing at 5'7".
 
The shock, link, Woodcraft clip ons, AP Moto Rearset plates and aftermarket rearsets give my FZ a really nice aggressive stance which is what I was shooting for. I cannot wait to test it out at the track
 
You have the link installed?
What are you doing for chain slack setting? I plan on getting the link as i already have the ktech shock and have had to run it a bit over the loose side of spec to keep it from overtightening while riding

ATGATT... ATTATT, two acronyms I live by.
 

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Made some progress tonight. Here are some updates and pictures to follow. 
K-Tech shock is installed. This is no paired with my AP Moto ride height link I previously purchased. No major issues with the install except I had to add some washers to the mounting point for my SC Project exhaust. This gave me more clearance so the swing arm would not rub the exhaust. Additionally, I did not like the bend of the provided compression reservoir mount so I bent it inwards to avoid damage during a crash.
 
After getting the shock installed, I mounted/aligned the rear wheel, chain slack set, and most importantly I installed a new Gilles rear axle nut to replace stock. The Gilles rear axle nut is really nice, but if I were to buy again I would go with ProBolt due to cost.
 
When I sat on the bike to test everything out, I immediately noticed the ride height change. I am more on my toes instead of flat footing at 5'7".
 
The shock, link, Woodcraft clip ons, AP Moto Rearset plates and aftermarket rearsets give my FZ a really nice aggressive stance which is what I was shooting for. I cannot wait to test it out at the track
You have the link installed? What are you doing for chain slack setting? I plan on getting the link as i already have the ktech shock and have had to run it a bit over the loose side of spec to keep it from overtightening while riding
The link is installed. For chain tension I never measure. I always go by feel and have never had an issue. I like my chain on the looser end so it does not affect rear suspension travel. My gauge is almost/barely touching the bottom swing arm chain guard.
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If you get a chance, let us know how much AP's link increased the ride ht., assuming you are starting out with the shock at the stock length of 310mm. I have a spare stock dogbone link I'd like to shorten by cutting and welding to see if there is any validity to the claims of improved geometry etc. I've already experimented with a different ratio alloy bellcrank that I made and it proved out to be beneficial in ride ht. increase and shock compliance but I'm still checking things out.
 
Blackout, I want to thank you for that video by Dave Moss, I went and watched all his videos on suspension, even found a really good one on forks and top out springs on Ustream, well worth an hour and 17 minutes. I learned a lot about bike suspension set up and all on one rainy day.

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When I raised the rear by 20mm I had to go a tad looser then you're describing, a really good way to know for sure is to install the rear wheel and adjust chain tension with the C/S sprocket center, swing arm pivot center and rear axle bolt center all in a straight line, the tightest point in the swing arms arc. This is easy to do before attaching the aft shock clevis and after hooking the shock up you can then push up on the chain and see where it comes to in relation to the swing arm slider. I was a bit off before I did this test and the chain was pretty tight at the tightest point. Now if you add more ride ht. the slack will increase as it should so don't take it back out.

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If you get a chance, let us know how much AP's link increased the ride ht., assuming you are starting out with the shock at the stock length of 310mm. I have a spare stock dogbone link I'd like to shorten by cutting and welding to see if there is any validity to the claims of improved geometry etc. I've already experimented with a different ratio alloy bellcrank that I made and it proved out to be beneficial in ride ht. increase and shock compliance but I'm still checking things out. 
Blackout, I want to thank you for that video by Dave Moss, I went and watched all his videos on suspension, even found a really good one on forks and top out springs on Ustream, well worth an hour and 17 minutes. I learned a lot about bike suspension set up and all on one rainy day.
Not sure how much AP's link increases ride height, but the one I made is adjusted to be 3/16" shorter than stock and it raised the rear, measured at the axle, by 5/8 of an inch. 
 

Craig Mapstone
Upstate New York

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If you get a chance, let us know how much AP's link increased the ride ht., assuming you are starting out with the shock at the stock length of 310mm. I have a spare stock dogbone link I'd like to shorten by cutting and welding to see if there is any validity to the claims of improved geometry etc. I've already experimented with a different ratio alloy bellcrank that I made and it proved out to be beneficial in ride ht. increase and shock compliance but I'm still checking things out. 
Blackout, I want to thank you for that video by Dave Moss, I went and watched all his videos on suspension, even found a really good one on forks and top out springs on Ustream, well worth an hour and 17 minutes. I learned a lot about bike suspension set up and all on one rainy day.
I can definitely let you know the final height after installing the shock and link. I don't have the OEM height though. Will post those up today. Note the new shock length is 325 according to the documentation included so turned in the clevis to its lowest setting. I think it's around 319 now.
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Blackout, thanks, that's what I was looking for and your adjustable link would really be the way to experiment, with it and an adjustable length shock you'd be able to play around quite a bit. I have some large rod ends so was thinking of changing the alloy bellcrank end to a clevis so I could use the threaded rod end for the dog bone link.
 
howlinhoss, I'll be interested to hear what you come up with. I'll have to check but I'm pretty sure the stock shock is 310mm and with my Penske adjusted to 317mm I think I was getting a 3/4" or about 20mm rise measured from center of axle. With your shock at 319mm and the AP link installed you must have a pretty hefty rise on the rear, I'd guess close to 1 1/4" or about 31mm or so. If you add a fork cartridge kit with a longish topout spring, your front will be lower yet so you'll definitely notice a quicker steering bike.

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