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specialeddy

Clutch Perch

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specialeddy
Why is it so difficult to find a sportbike clutch perch? Not lever but the PERCH... I cannot find a sportbike clutch PERCH; been googling for hours and I always end up with results for dirt bike perches... Some sites "select my bike" dont even give the option of fz07 when it comes to clutch perches... revzilla of course has the fz07 option but no clutch perches, just levers. Amazon screams "THIS DOES NOT FIT YOUR VEHICLE" for every perch I found.
 
Why do I want a new clutch perch? Because I like to switch out handle bars and the stock clutch perch has a horrible clamp method. I (you) have to loosen the clamp then pry it open with a flat head then slide/drag it off of the bar... and that sliding/dragging scratches the handle bar... the prying with flathead also distorts the perch clamp.
I need a clamping system that is just like the master cylinder perch... meaning the perch clamp is 2 separate pieces, you can remove the perch by unbolting and separating the 2 pieces allowing the perch to immediately come off the bar - no sliding, no dragging, no scratches.
 
I did find a possible "vintage" clutch perch but it has no way to accept the electrical wiring attached to the stock fz07 clutch perch... and the perch is being marketed as a "vintage" cafe racer clutch perch and that's probably why  it has no signs of a way to accept the electrical wiring from the fz07s stock clutch perch...
 
Any clutch perch ideas? I have been to revzilla, been to motorcycle superstore and been on amazon for hours... unless i missed something I came up empty.
 

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YZEtc
That's called a "split perch" design.
Ad writers used to make a big deal about that 40 years ago when they started to gain popularity.
 
You can get something used on roadrace bikes like this, but it probably has no built-in switch for the clutch lever/starter motor lockout:
 
http://www.gravesport.com/Active-Clutch-Perch-Kit-Lever-Ratio-32-34mm.html
 
Edit:
There's a switch shown in one of those product description pics, so it might have a starter motor cutout switch.
Would be nice for that price.
 
 
Or, you can use a dirt bike perch and lever from a dirt bike that comes with electric starting, like from a 2015 Yamaha WR250F.
 
 
But, what about a mount for your left-hand side mirror?
 
Myself, I'd do what I've done for years and get a clutch lever, perch, and electrical switch from a Yamaha  dual-purpose bike (like an XT225) that has those features:
 
Split perch.
Starter motor lock-out switch.
Left-hand mirror mount.
 
This method works, and is much cheaper while still using good-quality parts.
Not as much exotica, though.
 
In fact, I may do this to my FZ07 before springtime comes around.
Using the XT225 perch lets you use a Yamaha clutch lever with the part number
3FY-83912-02-00, and the shape of that lever is very good, good enough that Yamaha factory motocross riders preferred it back in the day (like Damon Bradshaw).
 
 
 
 

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CarGuy7a
Most of the reason you can't find a perch is most sportbike perches now are proprietary to the bike. Most of them now days have the mounts on them for the clutch switch where as aftermarket ones do not so manufacturers would have to spend alot of time and money designing a specific perch for every bike out there. More money and time than it's worth. But there are ways around it. I installed an RSC clutch on mine that has it's own perch. You have to figure something out for that pesky clutch switch though. Either leave it unplugged or use a normally open dirtbike kill switch so you can press the button in and start the bike in gear.
 
Realistically though any perch for standard 7/8ths bars should fit.
 

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CarGuy7a
Just found this guy. Looks like it accepts a few clutch switches i wonder if ours would fit? Pricy tho http://www.constructorsrg.com/levers/supersport_folding.html#
Nope. Just cross referenced the part numbers.
*accepts Honda switch part# 35335-MCJ-750, Yamaha switch part# 4XV-82917-01-00, Suzuki switch part# 57560 0500.
 
FZ-07 uses clutch switch part # 3YX-82917-01-00.
 
The switch CRG lists will work is for the R1 but is looks almost identical in the exploded views. If the switch housing itself is the same size between the 2 bikes then it may work. The only way to tell would be to hold the R1 and FZ-07 switch side by side. If they are the same then it would definitely work.
 
That clutch setup looks pretty pricey though.
 

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booboobusfz07
Odds are the switches operate on the same principle tho in wich case if the fz doesn't fit 5 min wire job an the r1 switch will work.
 
Pretty much seems when it comes to actually upgrading the clutch perch you have 2 options. Cheap an no switch w no lever adjustment ie rsc perch or hella pricey and does everything.

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rick
Looks like that switch part number fits a nice long list of Yamahas, but does not include the FZ9 or 7

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CarGuy7a
Actually my RSC lever does have adjustable reach. It's not on the fly adjustable though. I just left mine all the way out which is still very comfortable.

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specialeddy
That's called a "split perch" design. Ad writers used to make a big deal about that 40 years ago when they started to gain popularity.
 
You can get something used on roadrace bikes like this, but it probably has no built-in switch for the clutch lever/starter motor lockout:
 
http://www.gravesport.com/Active-Clutch-Perch-Kit-Lever-Ratio-32-34mm.html
 
Edit:
There's a switch shown in one of those product description pics, so it might have a starter motor cutout switch.
Would be nice for that price.
 
 
Or, you can use a dirt bike perch and lever from a dirt bike that comes with electric starting, like from a 2015 Yamaha WR250F.
 
 
But, what about a mount for your left-hand side mirror?
 
Myself, I'd do what I've done for years and get a clutch lever, perch, and electrical switch from a Yamaha  dual-purpose bike (like an XT225) that has those features:
 
Split perch.
Starter motor lock-out switch.
Left-hand mirror mount.
 
This method works, and is much cheaper while still using good-quality parts.
Not as much exotica, though.
 
In fact, I may do this to my FZ07 before springtime comes around.
Using the XT225 perch lets you use a Yamaha clutch lever with the part number
3FY-83912-02-00, and the shape of that lever is very good, good enough that Yamaha factory motocross riders preferred it back in the day (like Damon Bradshaw).
 
 
 

 
VERY HELPFUL.. i was wondering what the wires were doing connected to the clutch pwrch.. now i know... $275 is pretty expensive more than the master cylinder. But if it has the harness for the starter or motor i would buy it. Dont really see any specs other it saying it recommended for a 600cc plus bike...
 
so the dual purpose has a split perch? That accepts the clutch harness? So in theory i could basically head over to yamaha parts site and order a split perch from a 2016 a dual purpose bike...?
 
very helpful info.
As far as mirrors... bar end since like the 2nd day owning the fz07... brought it home and took off the fender.. mirrors... and the ridiculous orange lights on the front.
 
Also i was in contact with an ebay seller who had perch sets for cheap... he says his are universal but clutch switch thing may need to be rewired... he says his perch has 2 wires.. i counted 3 wires on the fz... he says different bikes have different number or switch wires... some have 2.. 3.. 4... he says it can be rewired but i am not sure i want to play around with that though.

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specialeddy
Also... what exactly is the starter motor lock out switch job? Sounds important. I Dont want to screw up the clutch system. I am really considering getting a late model dual purpose bike split perch that has the clutch switch... i would like to know the job of the switch so i can know if its operating correctly after the mod.
 
Edit:
I went over yamahaparts monster...
Found a diagram on a wr250... seems it has split perch and "switch"... diagram is just calling it a switch.
 
Wonder if i could swap out the fz07 perch with this wr250 perch..?
http://www.yamahapartsmonster.com/oemparts/a/yam/5626485a87a86602c84a3348/handle-switch-lever

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booboobusfz07
Also... what exactly is the starter motor lock out switch job? Sounds important. I Dont want to screw up the clutch system. I am really considering getting a late model dual purpose bike split perch that has the clutch switch... i would like to know the job of the switch so i can know if its operating correctly after the mod. 
Edit:
I went over yamahaparts monster...
Found a diagram on a wr250... seems it has split perch and "switch"... diagram is just calling it a switch.
 
Wonder if i could swap out the fz07 perch with this wr250 perch..?
http://www.yamahapartsmonster.com/oemparts/a/yam/5626485a87a86602c84a3348/handle-switch-lever
 
 
 
Clutch lockout prevents start-up in gear with clutch out. Common "safety" feature in new bikes. And on our bikes if you disable it it will affect fuelling, different fuel mode with clutch in. An only way to disable is to trick bike clutch is always in.
Wonder if an ecu flash could disable it.

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YZEtc
Wonder if i could swap out the fz07 perch with this wr250 perch..? http://www.yamahapartsmonster.com/oemparts/a/yam/5626485a87a86602c84a3348/handle-switch-lever
Yes, you could. Be aware that you buy all of those parts shown and put it together.
You will also need another part shown in that parts catalogue under the Steering Handle Cable diagram:
1C3-26342-50-00
It's a rubber boot (that looks like a knob) that fits over the cable slack adjuster and serves two functions:
1) It acts as a knob you turn when adjusting the clutch cable slack.
2) It works with part [HASH]8 in the link you posted and keeps that knob from turning when you don't want it to.
 
Also, you would need to cut and splice the WR250F switch onto the wires on your handlebar because the switch from the FZ07 and the switch from that WR250F are not the same part and use a different plug connector.
Easy, since your FZ07 and that WR250F use a two-wire switch.
 
Also, if you really are considering this, I actually own one of these 2016 WR250Fs, myself.
I changed to a different clutch perch/lever assembly soon after I bought the bike, and the original is sitting here doing nothing.
It's complete, minus the switch, which you would need to buy.
If interested, send me a PM.
I'll sell it cheap.
 
 
 
 
 

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specialeddy
I have all winter to experiment... so I will use The Yztec suggestion of buying wr250f clutch perch and switch and rewiring the switch... its not that expensive buying all the OEM clutch perch parts amazingly...
If i do the mod correctly bike will not start with clutch out in gear, right?
If I get the mod wiring wrong bike WILL start in gear??? I have it completely lifted off ground, front and back, no ground contact for tires
 

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CarGuy7a
I have all winter to experiment... so I will use The Yztec suggestion of buying wr250f clutch perch and switch and rewiring the switch... its not that expensive buying all the OEM clutch perch parts amazingly... If i do the mod correctly bike will not start with clutch out in gear, right?
If I get the mod wiring wrong bike WILL start in gear??? I have it completely lifted off ground, front and back, no ground contact for tires

With the clutch pulled in to the bar, your switch should be making contact completing the electrical circuit in order for the bike to start in gear with kickstand up and clutch pulled in. When the clutch is engaged (lever away from bars) the switch should be open making no contact. It really doesn't matter which wire goes where on the switch, the switch is only there to complete or disconnect the circuit. Really all you need to test your setup before even starting the bike is a multi meter with a continuity function. The switch should only have continuity when the lever is pulled to the bars. If it does then your setup is good.
 
Like said before the FZ-07 has different fuel maps that change according to what that clutch switch is doing along with the gear position switch (which I found out first hand when I fitted my RSC setup). There is a Neutral map and (what I call) a riding map. The problem I had was I just jumped the clutch switch wires with a piece of wire tricking the ECU into thinking the clutch was pulled to the bars all the time so the bike would start in gear no matter if the clutch was pulled in or not (this is where common sense comes in and you always pull the clutch in before starting the bike especially in gear). But what this caused when I did that was the bike would always run in that neutral map and it ran like crap while riding. This was apparent that there was 2 different maps when I added a normally open switch in place of the clutch switch (so I could press the button with clutch pulled in, then hit the starter). With the clutch pulled in, bike in gear, clutch switch continuity open (as it would be while riding) it would idle higher while the bike was stopped. As soon as I shifted the bike into neutral or pressed the button on that switch, the idle would drop a couple hundred RPM. So what happens is when you go to take off from a stop and let the clutch out, the clutch switch tells the ECU to wake up the fuel and timing into a riding map.
 
You won't have to go through what I did though if you're going to use a setup with an actual clutch switch.
 

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specialeddy
I have all winter to experiment... so I will use The Yztec suggestion of buying wr250f clutch perch and switch and rewiring the switch... its not that expensive buying all the OEM clutch perch parts amazingly... If i do the mod correctly bike will not start with clutch out in gear, right?
If I get the mod wiring wrong bike WILL start in gear??? I have it completely lifted off ground, front and back, no ground contact for tires

With the clutch pulled in to the bar, your switch should be making contact completing the electrical circuit in order for the bike to start in gear with kickstand up and clutch pulled in. When the clutch is engaged (lever away from bars) the switch should be open making no contact. It really doesn't matter which wire goes where on the switch, the switch is only there to complete or disconnect the circuit. Really all you need to test your setup before even starting the bike is a multi meter with a continuity function. The switch should only have continuity when the lever is pulled to the bars. If it does then your setup is good. 
Like said before the FZ-07 has different fuel maps that change according to what that clutch switch is doing along with the gear position switch (which I found out first hand when I fitted my RSC setup). There is a Neutral map and (what I call) a riding map. The problem I had was I just jumped the clutch switch wires with a piece of wire tricking the ECU into thinking the clutch was pulled to the bars all the time so the bike would start in gear no matter if the clutch was pulled in or not (this is where common sense comes in and you always pull the clutch in before starting the bike especially in gear). But what this caused when I did that was the bike would always run in that neutral map and it ran like crap while riding. This was apparent that there was 2 different maps when I added a normally open switch in place of the clutch switch (so I could press the button with clutch pulled in, then hit the starter). With the clutch pulled in, bike in gear, clutch switch continuity open (as it would be while riding) it would idle higher while the bike was stopped. As soon as I shifted the bike into neutral or pressed the button on that switch, the idle would drop a couple hundred RPM. So what happens is when you go to take off from a stop and let the clutch out, the clutch switch tells the ECU to wake up the fuel and timing into a riding map.
 
You won't have to go through what I did though if you're going to use a setup with an actual clutch switch.

 
 
Thank! Very helpful information. I have been asking about a perch even on other sportbike forums... and a lot of guys suggested disabling the switch.. i think i even saw a sportbike parts site mention disabling the the switch but NONE of them addressed the potentional problems caused by a disabled switch... you are the first to mention the mapping and rough idle due to ecu thinking the switch activated or not activated... i have definitely learned something from you... i will NOT be disabling my fz07 switch just to avoid some scratches on my bars caused by the stock perch... i will try to rewire the switch... but worse case scenario if it all fails i will revert back to stock perch... as i rather have few nicks on handle bars rather than ecu errors... rough idles... rough ride etc.
Thank u very much for your knowledge

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CarGuy7a
Well there is the option of just unplugging the switch and not jumping it and it will run absolutely fine. The only downside will be that you can only start the bike with the trans in Neutral. Not good if you stall the bike in traffic with an SUV barreling down behind you doing 50mph which is why I added that button in place of the switch, while also letting the bike run in the ECU mapping it should be in.
 
It's not necessarily a rough idle. Just the difference in ECU mapping is noticed clearly with the setup I have. When I had the switch wires jumped, it constantly ran in the neutral idle map which idled absolutely fine but when you rode the bike and got the rpm's up past idle, it ran with a noticeable lack of power. With riding map enabled (clutch switch open at idle which in stock form it never is, it's usually closed when clutch is pulled in) I could tell the fueling and timing is in a different state by the increased idle. Which is stock form it's not noticed because you are already moving on the bike when that change in mapping happens. It happens as soon as you engage the clutch to move the bike.

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dreadykrueger
Since the clutch switch is connected to and controlled by the ECU, I wonder if an ECU flash could allow you to install a new clutch lever but at the same time run with a riding map engaged and be able to start the bike in gear with the clutch pulled in like you normally could.

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YZEtc
You mean to be able to start the bike in gear without pulling the clutch lever in?

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dreadykrueger
No I mean start it in gear with the clutch pulled in. As I understand it, once you install an easy pull clutch like RSC you have to either rewire the oem clutch switch or leave it unplugged. Problem with leaving it unplugged is you can only start it in neutral. I thought a flash could make the easy pull clutch function like the factory clutch, but without having to rewire anything

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YZEtc
[div]Too risky.
Allowing the bike to start in gear without needing a functioning clutch lever switch means operator error can cause damage to bike, body, and property.[/div]

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CarGuy7a
[div]Too risky. Allowing the bike to start in gear without needing a functioning clutch lever switch means operator error can cause damage to bike, body, and property.[/div]
I agree. I don't think any ECU reflash supplier would consider a work around for the clutch switch as it would be too much of a liability issue. 
On the old carbureted bikes and ATV's it didn't matter if you jumped the clutch switch wires because there's no ECU. I did that mod on my 400EX and it made no difference in the way it ran. Gotta love the newer technology. :-[
 

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dreadykrueger
I think maybe I wasn't clear and there is a misunderstanding here. I'm not saying I want to be able to start the bike in gear without having to pull in the clutch lever. I agree with you that it would be too risky and prone to destruction by operator error. I'm just wondering if it's possible to make an RSC clutch lever work without having to a) unplug the clutch switch or b) jump the clutch switch wires. Meaning, if the bike is in neutral, I can start it with no worries. If the bike is in gear, the clutch lever MUST be pulled in in order to start the bike.  How would that be done?

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cybmx
I think maybe I wasn't clear and there is a misunderstanding here. I'm not saying I want to be able to start the bike in gear without having to pull in the clutch lever. I agree with you that it would be too risky and prone to destruction by operator error. I'm just wondering if it's possible to make an RSC clutch lever work without having to a) unplug the clutch switch or b) jump the clutch switch wires. Meaning, if the bike is in neutral, I can start it with no worries. If the bike is in gear, the clutch lever MUST be pulled in in order to start the bike.  How would that be done?
 
 
Well, that exactly what that switch is for...

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