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California evap bypass


superfishal

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Anyone in cali bypass that ugly evap canister that doesn't do anything? Supposedly it can cause hard starts and vapor lock if you fill your tank to the brim.  I'm thinking it wouldn't be hard to do.  Only need to buy  a vacuum line plug. 

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no problem, just have to extend the fuel tank vent line to make up for the missing canister. I had trouble getting the rubber canister boot out in one pc., it wraps around the starter motor so I just cut it and pulled it out..I left the tip over valve in the tank vent line just to the right and above TPS, I figure it may save my bike from a fire in case of a tip over. You already figured out to cap off the vacuum line port to manifold after removing the hose from canister. You are right about possible hard starts with flooding due to full tank, sitting in the sun and venting raw fuel into the canister, appears to have been a common issue with the FZ-09 and was resolved with canister removal.

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I deleted it a while back, when replacing the neutral switch. Makes life easier in terms of maintenance in that region.
Looks better also, but then I like to see the basic engine shape, not just a compilation of plastic and bits, also why I removed the radiator overflow bottle and cover from the front of  the engine, horn replaced also but getting off topic I know. 
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I deleted it a while back, when replacing the neutral switch. Makes life easier in terms of maintenance in that region.
Looks better also, but then I like to see the basic engine shape, not just a compilation of plastic and bits, also why I removed the radiator overflow bottle and cover from the front of  the engine, horn replaced also but getting off topic I know.
Since we are off topic where did you relocate the coolant bottle to?   Any chance you could post a picture, or maybe even post a how-to in the tech tips section?
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I tossed it in my extra parts bin, I'm running Evans waterless coolant, no water, no expansion (or very little, 7%), no pressure, however, I did fab up a small plastic test tube like bottle with the original bottles cap and hoses (shortened) and velcroed it into the inside of the radiators rt. hand plastic side piece, in the back section out of sight. I actually ran without the mini bottle through the summer in temps up to 98*F with no venting but this mini just made me feel better, still no overflow to see.
 
I tried to post pix yesterday of my modified CF rear hugger and spent a couple hours and got no where, the only reason I got a computer originally was to bid on vintage m/c parts on ebay, now with youtube and forums I'm hooked. My daughter will be home for Christmas, I'll have her help me so I can share.

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Uh... anyone want to post a how-to with pics on this?! I'm curious.

Instagram: @meekmade | You don't need to flat foot a bike to ride it.

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Well, if your patient, I can in a couple of weeks, I haven't heard of anyone else bothering to do it. I've been running Evans ccolant for years in my DRZ440 and never lost any coolant so removed it's tank also, however, since I had to buy a bag of 5 of these plastic test tube thingies I'll probably put one on it also just inside the shroud where it's safe but visible.
 
I bought tubes with a larger diameter and thicker flange than the -07's coolant tanks opening then chucked it up in a lathe and turned it down to Yamaha dimensions so the stock tank cap snaps right on, then shortened the stock tanks inner tubing to just stop short of the mini tanks bottom. You don't really need to do this with the Evans coolant, it has a much higher boiling point then water based coolants and runs at no pressure basically, much easier on hoses, gaskets, pump seals and is non corrosive, life time.

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