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optytrex

bolt access?

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optytrex
Anyone have any mods/ideas to make the seat bolts more accessible? they're kind of a pain to get to...
I doubt through holes are a good idea and I can't imagine thinning out or removing that foam would work either but I guess there may be quick release bolts or something like that?
 

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rick
ball-end, T handle hex keys

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Beemer
Nothing to make it more accessible, sorry, but this should help to lift the seat corner easier. The foam in my seat seems to bend easier after bending it over and over to get at those screws so many times so there's that to keep in mind. You can always use a long handle screw driver to lift and hold up the back corner of the seat with one hand and use a T-handled hex like what rick said or just a regular hex with the other hand. Some things just take a little more muscle/finesse than others. You'll be alright with it later, I'm sure.

Beemer

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glockpointer
shoulda seem me prying on the front seat while turning the seat release, forgot it was for back seat

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azuryn
You could always get the one piece seats and they just come off with the pillion release. I find the slotted screw drivers with the adapter to a 3/8 socket then your key makes this part really easy. All you have to do is lift the seat corners out of the way. (Totally forgot the name of the screw drivers, but hopefully that description is good enough.)

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sorkyah
i swapped the bolts out for a wider head torx bolt
My torx bits are longer tham my allen wrenches so i just went with that
Aligning it is atill kind of a pain though
 
@azuryn is referring to the corbin seats i believe

ATGATT... ATTATT, two acronyms I live by.
 

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pegasus46

After spending hours (it seemed like) re-attaching the damn thing I welded a flat round disk to the top of a bolt, screwed it in, added velco to the seat and the bolt...yahoo, stays in place perfect, takes 2-3 seconds to take off or put back on.

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markstertt
On ‎11‎/‎10‎/‎2016 at 1:08 PM, optytrex said:

Anyone have any mods/ideas to make the seat bolts more accessible? they're kind of a pain to get to...
I doubt through holes are a good idea and I can't imagine thinning out or removing that foam would work either but I guess there may be quick release bolts or something like that?
 

Go to my post of April 21, 2017 for an idea that works very well for me and is easy and secure.

 

Yep, got sucked in to an old post, oh well, I'll leave it for grins...

Edited by markstertt
noticed old post date

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robbo10
On 13/02/2018 at 8:02 AM, pegasus46 said:

After spending hours (it seemed like) re-attaching the damn thing I welded a flat round disk to the top of a bolt, screwed it in, added velco to the seat and the bolt...yahoo, stays in place perfect, takes 2-3 seconds to take off or put back on.

Velcro will be the solution next time mine comes off.


Just do it! 

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Zephyr

Don't have a pic, but I removed the bolts.  I replaced with cotter pin bolts and rubberized washers.  I was using hitch pins to secure, but the bolts kept moving when putting the seat on, so I just jb welded a washer on the seat side so that the pins can't move and forgo the hitch pins as the angle of the seat holes provides a secure pressure fit.  Perfect setup as I can easily access the battery to connect a charger or portable air pump.

 

*Main reason for mod was stripping the bolts on both sides more than once, but so glad I was "pushed" to make the mod.

Edited by Zephyr

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markstertt
3 hours ago, Zephyr said:

Don't have a pic, but I removed the bolts.  I replaced with cotter pin bolts and rubberized washers.  I was using hitch pins to secure, but the bolts kept moving when putting the seat on, so I just jb welded a washer on the seat side so that the pins can't move and forgo the hitch pins as the angle of the seat holes provides a secure pressure fit.  Perfect setup as I can easily access the battery to connect a charger or portable air pump.

 

*Main reason for mod was stripping the bolts on both sides more than once, but so glad I was "pushed" to make the mod.

I ran the bolts down all the way, installed a lock nut run up against the Yam welded in nut from below....no movement, but whatever works and you're right, it makes accessing the battery etc. so much less hassle.

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optytrex
On 2/13/2018 at 11:09 PM, markstertt said:

Go to my post of April 21, 2017 for an idea that works very well for me and is easy and secure.

 

Sorry I've been searching and searching on and off for a while now but can't seem to find a way to filter the search function to find this. Could you point me in the right direction?

For now, I've just kind of dealt with it and had to use ball-end, T handle hex keys like rick says. That's really worked out alright I guess...

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robbo10
1 hour ago, optytrex said:

Sorry I've been searching and searching on and off for a while now but can't seem to find a way to filter the search function to find this. Could you point me in the right direction?

For now, I've just kind of dealt with it and had to use ball-end, T handle hex keys like rick says. That's really worked out alright I guess...

This? 

 


Just do it! 

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markstertt
18 hours ago, optytrex said:

Sorry I've been searching and searching on and off for a while now but can't seem to find a way to filter the search function to find this. Could you point me in the right direction?

For now, I've just kind of dealt with it and had to use ball-end, T handle hex keys like rick says. That's really worked out alright I guess...

The only thing I forgot to show was the lock nut I added to the bottom of the stud to keep it from rotating once I clocked it to the angle I wanted...just run up and jammed against factory weld nut. The nut is in the picture with the bolts and pins but not shown in it's position on the bottom of the bolt.

Edited by markstertt
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optytrex
6 hours ago, markstertt said:

The only thing I forgot to show was the lock nut I added to the bottom of the stud to keep it from rotating once I clocked it to the angle I wanted...just run up and jammed against factory weld nut. The nut is in the picture with the bolts and pins but not shown in it's position on the bottom of the bolt.

Dude, this is awesome...I'm going to do this, maybe add some locktite to the threads and call it a day

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markstertt
9 hours ago, optytrex said:

Dude, this is awesome...I'm going to do this, maybe add some locktite to the threads and call it a day

I'm sorry I don't think I explained the mod very well, I bottomed out the bolts, tight, into the factory nut which exposed the bolt threads below the nut...I then installed a locknut on these threads from below and ran the lock nut up tight against the bottom of the factory welded in nut, a jam nut in other words...so no Loctite necessary. Even without bottoming out the bolt, the locknut from below will prevent the bolt from turning and would allow you to turn the bolt to align the pin hole if necessary or raise & lower it's position in relation to the seat pan washer/spacer, then tighten up the jam nut. Of course installing the lock nut does require the side plastic pcs. to be removed (if I remember correctly).

 

Once the bolts are installed, take the seat rubber bushing and shiny steel washer/spacer out of the plastic seat pan and slide them down over the bolts and with a fine felt marker, mark the spot where you want to drill the hole, remove the bolts, drill the holes (then use a larger drill bit to chamfer the inlet of the hole for easier hitch pin insert) and then radius off the top of the bolts just above the drilled holes to make seat removal/install easier. The taller the bolt above the hole, the harder it is for the seat to be popped off because the bolt is vertical and the rear of the seat wants to follow an arc on removal...pivoting on the seats front attach mount...even without the hitch pins your seat would never be able to fall off over these modded bolts.

 

Reinstall the bolts, tighten them down and then install jam nut from below. If you find the pin hole was drilled to low and you can't insert the hitch pin easily, you have 2 options:

1. remove the shiny steel washer spacer and file or grind the bottom of the steel spacer a few thousandths of an inch to lower the washer in regards to the pin hole or

2. loosen the lock nut and turn the bolt 180* and see if that raises the hole enough for easy pin insert, if so, run up the jam nut while holding the bolt, if not enough, then turn the bolt another 180* etc.

 

Good luck...Mark

 

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