Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
gleemthecube

How many accessories can I power?

Recommended Posts

gleemthecube
I ride all year long. From Jersey 30 miles into Manhattan. Right now I ride a KLR650 with heated grips and heated gloves. I just bought a 2016 FZ-07 and want to add Koso heated grips, a Gerbing 12v dual temp controller for jacket and gloves, and a 12v socket with usb to power my phone. Possibly even led driving lights as well. Does anyone know the alternator output and the stock power draw of the 2016? Has anyone run a setup like this? Should I install a powerblock since there will be many wires running to the battery? Suggestions?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Ralph
About 400 W at 5000rpm   the lights will use about 70W then you have the ecu and fuel pump, can't see them using a lot
so I would think you will be ok I ran a heated jacket last winter with a gps no problems, the tickover
is a bit low so I would keep a eye on things if you do a lot of town work and the battery is quite small
so make sure they are off when the engine is not running.
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Beemer
Don't quote me on it but I'm pretty sure I read somewhere that it can power up to 55 watts extra in accessories. Can anyone confirm that?
Edit: I just found this in the manual. it says, "The accessory connected to the auxiliary DC connector should not be used with the engine turned off and the load must never exceed 24 W (2 A), otherwise the fuse may blow or the battery may discharge."
 
I hope that helps.

Beemer

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
AlbatrossCafe
This probably doesn't help much, but in terms of power mods, I have LED signals front and back and a wiring/relay setup that lets me use 2 H4 bulbs for headlight power (while keeping the stock H4 connector there to control the lo/hi switch - so three H4 connectors total). Those all worked fine.
 
However, next I added LED underglow lights to my FZ and with those turned on, idling is rough. If I'm not paying attention it may just cut while idling at a stoplight. I assumed it was because of too much draw and the battery was discharging.
 
However, I think those LED underglows just draw on the battery all the time because it has problems after sitting for a while if I don't disconnect them. SO I actually have no idea of anything at this point.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Ralph
I have one of those cheap'o multi cig lighter and usb connectors
under the screen and stick a batter tester in one of the connectors,
it has 3 led's good ok and bad so can tell at a glance if it's not
keeping the charge up, it's never even shown any sign of loosing charge.
 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
rick
The big problem is not so much running the charge system out of output to the point that you starve the stuff necessary to keep the bike running - add the dash, injectors, ignition coils, relays, temp sensors, IAC stepper motor, and the cooling fan if ya get stuck in traffic - even if it's cold out - it's the need to replace the energy used to spin the starter after it sucks 1000 watts for those couple of seconds it's running.
 
So, if you power enough heated gear and stuff (that 5V phone charger likely adds another 12-15W if it's output is a 1 amp while used) that only a minimal amount of charge voltage is left over to replenish the battery and you A) don't ride very far/long and B) you do not put your battery on a charger, eventually, your battery will get weaker and weaker with every start-up, even if the charge system is working perfectly.
 
Tha hub is nice, but a bit overkill, imo. As you will be powering the gloves from the jacket sleeves, you will only need one fused pigtail to power your jacket. Gonna guess the jacket/glove combo will draw 100 watts so you'll need to fuse it at 10A as close the battery as possible. The grips will be at least another 30 watts or so.
 
This is a nice link from Powerlet. Note how a VStrom needs a whopping 285 watts just to keep running (the LED tail light will help for us). http://www.powerlet.com/learningCenter/excessCapacity with 400 watts of charge available, I think you'll be OK, but after a long ride with everything on, you might want to do a quick voltage check at the battery when you get home. If it's not 12.7 or 12.8 after the bike sits a bit, you might need to live w/o the grips when the jacket and gloves are bathing you in warm.. Personally, i think heated gloves will be better when it's really cold anyway. You can save the grips for a cool morning/day when you get stuck with only summer weight gloves.
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
gleemthecube
Excellent info Rick. Even if it's over kill, at least I have the peace of mind knowing I can always hook up different stuff to the bike later down the line extremely quickly and easily. Now that I know there will be enough power I can stop worrying and just cruise.
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
rick
Short of hooking up an ammeter with the ability to show a negative delta in charging current, you can hook up a small volt monitor to keep tabs on what's going on. I have one of these on both my bikes http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/8115/i/kuryakyn-led-battery-gauge
 
There are even some combined 5V charger/voltmeters now (waterproof is important) http://www.lightinthebox.com/12v-24v-waterproof-motorcycle-car-dual-usb-charger-with-led-digital-voltmeter-handbar-mount_p4766761.html?currency=USD&litb_from=bing_shopping&utm_source=bingshopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=bingshopping
 
At a traffic light, and idling, when the cooling fans on my Aprilia ( there are 2 radiators on that bike) kick on, the charge voltage will drop into the 12s. At 4k it's in the low 14s no matter what's running or what I have powered to keep me warm. If it were to drop into the 12s at 4k, I would choose to be cold over getting home.
 
 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
avanti
You mean the Manual doesn't give any guidance as to how much one can power, or examples of what can be powered. I'm not where my Manual is to look, but that's totally and purely goofy if it doesn't!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
rick
I've owned a service manual for dang near every vehicle I've ever owned. Not once have I seen a spec saying how much extra wattage was available to power accessories.
 
Yamaha gives us an accessory plug on a 2A max circuit. That suggests they are restricting accessories to 28 watts, assuming 14Volts. Beyond that, we're on our own.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
avanti
rick, that's strange, since EVERY vehicle I own states the max amps and/or watts in the Owner's Manual (I looked this pm), so the Service Manual is probably unnecessary.
 
Yes, you are correct in that on page 4-23 of the '15 07 US Owner's Manual it says of the built-in accessory outlet, "...the load must never exceed 24 W (2 A), otherwise the fuse may blow or the battery may discharge." Seems clear enough to me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
rick
Ah, max wattage - yeah, it's in the shop manual somewhere. I was thinking extra beyond what's necessary to keep the thing running. .
 
The 2 BMW twins I owned had alternators that produced a whopping 280 watts, iirc - or was that 260? Granted, those bikes didn't have a fuel pump, injectors or an ecu, but they only barely had enough juice to keep what was an enormous 28 Ah battery charged. Would not have even given though to using heated gear on either my R90 or R100RS.
 
At 400 watts, this bike is a bit limited, but it could be far worse. i think that 24 watts is pretty conservative. If yer running heated gear and heated grips, short hop trips with multiple hits of the starter motor are probably ill advised - especially if you don't routinely plug the battery in at home. But if you ride far enough to give the charge system time to replenish what the starter sucks away from the battery, I'm thinking 50 or maybe 60 watts is doable.
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
forcefed86
Im using led headlight, tail light, fast charger usb as well as heated gloves.
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
rick
Im using led headlight, tail light, fast charger usb as well as heated gloves.
W/o looking it up, gonna guess that an LED headlight draws less wattage than the OE incandescent light. We all have LED tail lights. Your 5V USB @ 2A output is only drawing 10W and it's only doing that when yer phone is plugged in.  
everything that produces heat (starter motors, incandescent lamps, the electronics that power LEDs and need heat sinks to dissipate that heat, and last, but not least, heated gear) will have significant wattage use. . 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
justblade
I was curious about this topic as well as I was thinking of putting on Oxford sports heated grips and female cigarette lighter and plugging the Samsung fast charger to it. So I an charge my phone and maybe a iPod or something. Would getting a lithium battery help with this?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
rick
Don't see how having a Li battery is gonna change anything. You draw more wattage than the charge system can put back in, eventually any battery will get run down. The phone charger is not really gonna draw much current, so not an issue. There should be enough alternator wattage output on the charge system to run those grips OK, w/o running the battery down.
 
Keep in mind, this things accessories on draw power when used. Personally, I prefer an SAE plug for the bike just cause they are smaller. Both of my bikes have BMW style plugs that I use for my float chargers as well as my heated gear. I use SAE connectors from my GPS and use an adapter to go from cig socket (for the GPS's plug) to SAE
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
justblade
Thanks I wasn't sure about that. I'm thinking about SAE route as well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
rick
For those things that come with a male cig plug, you'll need a version of https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-8-Cigarette-Disconnect/dp/B0041CDPQO
 
I hate those cig plugs for the bike. The spring loaded pin is always pushing them apart. That won't happen with either an SAE or one of these BMW style plugs https://www.amazon.com/Cllena-Motorcycle-Powerlet-European-Cigarette/dp/B01J7E5CLQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1489147726&sr=1-2&keywords=BMW+style+plug
 
I have some Powerlet stuff on both bikes. For the basic plugs, they are a bit pricey, imo. But for one stop adapter shopping, they can't be beat https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=Powerlet
 
 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
justblade
The powerlet looks top notch quality though. Worth the price it's seems.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  


×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.