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wesp0tt

Aftermarket lever fitment on 2016s

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wesp0tt
Any 2016 owners with aftermarket levers, specifically the front brake lever?
I initially bought some cheaper Ride It levers that were like the ebay Pazzo clones, but struggled with the front brake lever fitment. It fit too snug and did not fully reset after it was pulled. This caused the front brake to rub and the brake light to stay on sometimes. Since this is extremely dangerous, I removed it immediately.
 
So, I returned the Ride It levers and shelled out for some CRG RC2 levers. But, the front brake lever has the same fitment issue! It is too snug going in and when fully assembled and bolted down, it does not fully reset. This causes the same issue as before and the front brakes rub without pulling the lever.
 
I am at a loss. I am wondering if the 2016 model has a slightly different master cylinder. The stock lever goes back on in seconds without any struggle. I thought 2014 through 2016 were pretty much identical except for colors. Am I missing something? Is there some other adjustment that I need to do?

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Guest ChicagoAJ
I have a 2016 and cheap eBay levers. Paid under $21 dollars for them, they've worked perfectly for 6 months now. Do you have any damage around your master cylinder? Have you dropped your bike?

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dburpee
I have the 2016 model with the CRG levers and had no fitment issues, I am betting on some error in installation. You have to reuse the little washer thing from the old levers, maybe you forgot that?
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wesp0tt
Stock bike, no drops. The new lever is just too tight in the master cylinder. Like I said, the stock lever goes back in extremely easy so I doubt it is an error on my part.
 
On the brake side, there is no washer thing to reuse. That is on the clutch side only, as far as I can tell.
 
Is there a part number on the master cylinder? Maybe we can compare.

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Guest 2wheeler
2016, and I added the ones from Mad Hornets - no problems
 

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huntb
The brake light switch is not the same as the master cylinder plunger. Maybe you could post a picture...

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pattonme
and find a pair of calipers and take some thickness and diameter measurements
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bannerfans_1095431.jpg

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Beemer
Did the dimensions change in the 16' model? My US 260's went in easy on my 15' but I had to make a clutch cable adjustment next to the engine after putting the small adjustment lever on [HASH]6. When the clutch lever was fully out the clutch wasn't engaging 100%. That's all I had to do and it's been fine for over a year.

Beemer

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wesp0tt
Exact same levers that I bought. Here is a video of the install:
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TrvE1acFxyY&feature=youtu.be
 
 
What I do in the video:
* Test stock lever
* Remove stock lever
* Grease CRG lever
* Install CRG lever
* Test CRG lever
* Loosen bolt (a lot!)
* Test CRG lever
* Remove CRG lever
* Install stock lever
* Test stock lever
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dburpee
Shit man no clue what to tell you. Only thing I can think of is I know that until I got the bolt screwed in pretty much all the way there was some force from the hydraulic actuator that was causing some binding. Once I got everything tightened up it was fine. Might want to triple check that you have the bolt aligned properly but looking at your install it should be fine.
 
Nice rex btw.

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ddog
The more inexpensive levers have a pretty terrible threshold for error in machining their levers. I got a set from mad hornets that deflected about 35 degrees each direction off center and were hardly useable. If those levers can be off by that much I'm sure they could screw up just as badly in the opposite direction. A measuring caliper would definitely shed light on the issue.

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Guest ChicagoAJ
When installing my aftermarket Chinese lever, the little bolt/nipple that comes out of the master cylinder didn't want to go into the machined hole for it. The lever went on and installed fine but had the same symptoms as yours, the brake lever was sticky. I'm not trying to insult your mechanical abilities, but are you sure that little arm coming out of the master cylinder is lining up correctly and mating with the CRG lever?
 
I had to install from the other side when doing my brake lever because that little arm coming out of the master cylinder was such a pain. So to see you just put the lever in there seems off to me. The lever will go on that easy if that little arm isn't lined up. It will appear to work, but be a bit sticky like in your video. 
 
Again, no offense to your mechanical abilities. Just trying to trouble shoot.
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KamelReds
Had an issue with the MZS levers I bought at first, it didn't seem like the plunger for the the master cylinder was almost too long for it.
 
I almost shaved a little bit off of the plunger to make them work, but after some messing with I got the brake lever to go in. Make sure that you're hitting the plunger just right when inserting the lever, it can be kind of wonky.
 
Here are my levers.

It's all about keeping that rubber side down.

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danfz07
Had an issue with the MZS levers I bought at first, it didn't seem like the plunger for the the master cylinder was almost too long for it. 
I almost shaved a little bit off of the plunger to make them work, but after some messing with I got the brake lever to go in. Make sure that you're hitting the plunger just right when inserting the lever, it can be kind of wonky.
 
Here are my levers.
 


So what are your thoughts of these??  I have been looking at them pretty heavily.   
Dan
 
 

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rick
Sometimes you have to place the end of the piston (the end you see poking out of the master cyl) into position in the back of the lever before putting the pivot bolt thru. Once in place, you'll have to push the assembly (pin + lever) together in against the return spring and then put the bolt into the pivot. Do that bolt 1st, and it'll not go back together. Seen Brembo levers/masters just like this.
 
Dunno if there's a clip holding it in, - probably - but if not, be careful not to pull the piston out of the master - it can get messy as brake fluid dumps out all over the place.

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KamelReds
Had an issue with the MZS levers I bought at first, it didn't seem like the plunger for the the master cylinder was almost too long for it. 
I almost shaved a little bit off of the plunger to make them work, but after some messing with I got the brake lever to go in. Make sure that you're hitting the plunger just right when inserting the lever, it can be kind of wonky.
 
Here are my levers.
 


So what are your thoughts of these??  I have been looking at them pretty heavily.   
Dan
 

 
So far, so good. They seem well constructed and totally changed the feel of the bike from the stock levers, clutch engagement is much more crisp and I don't feel like I'm having to pull the clutch/brake lever a mile to get it to do something.

It's all about keeping that rubber side down.

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Guest ChicagoAJ
Sometimes you have to place the end of the piston (the end you see poking out of the master cyl) into position in the back of the lever before putting the pivot bolt thru. Once in place, you'll have to push the assembly (pin + lever) together in against the return spring and then put the bolt into the pivot. Do that bolt 1st, and it'll not go back together. Seen Brembo levers/masters just like this.  
Dunno if there's a clip holding it in, - probably - but if not, be careful not to pull the piston out of the master - it can get messy as brake fluid dumps out all over the place.
There's a rubber boot holding the piston in there, I believe. I was messing with it pulling it back and forward when putting my levers on after lubing the cables, I don't think you could pull it out if you wanted to. After looking at the fiche page the piston might screw in and there's also a couple of snap rings it looks like. 

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rick
That little rubber gator helps keep dirt and water out of the piston. They usually have a tube shaped inner bit that presses into the hole. A snap ring to prevent the piston from backing out on its own is likely. Never seen one with threads though. Those pistons usually just slide in and out. The pistons usually have 2 seals. Maybe that's what you are seing as a threaded portion.
 
One thing that's very important when you swap out one of these levers. The actual piston inside the master must have enough travel to back up far enough that when you let go of the lever, fluid can move freely from the line to the reservoir. If the new lever pushes the piston in too far at rest, you run the chance of fluid building pressure in the lines as the pads transfer heat and that causes the fluid to expand. If it can't get back to the reservoir, it's got no where to go except into the calipers - the brakes will lock up on their own and you'll go no where until they cool off. .
 
Sounds crazy, but it can and does happen .

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pattonme
@rick, you were riding my SMR were you? Had my bike come to a halt on the fastest part of the straight-away at Summit Shenny circuit. Waving my arms like mad hoping to God nobody would him me at over 90MPH. Took a dozen tries to get the air out of that line. I used to put a 3mm hex wrench under the seat lip in case it did it again and I needed to quickly relieve pressure.
 

bannerfans_1095431.jpg

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wesp0tt
OP here, and I finally got this resolved.
 
Apparently, the lever I had was at CRG's maximum tolerance for thickness. They sent me a different lever on the opposite end of their tolerance and it fits perfectly.

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botticelli
CRG and ASV both fit with no probs on my 2016
 
good luck with fitment and keep us posted!
 
~Pete

'16 FZ07

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