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The MT-07 Forum

Not happy with stock clutch feel


r1limited

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Have two 2016's  Not very happy with clutch feel, I am assuming it has a lot to do with the decel bog crap from the stock ECO flash.
 
Looking to see if anyone has had similar opinions and if it all changed when ECO was flashed?
 
I have not really dove into the setup as yet, as I have 200 miles on one, a few good heat cycles, oil and filter change and a butt hurt 2006 R1 50th feeling left out.  The other has 1 heat cycle and about 50 miles.
 
Just curious of peoples experience on the clutch
 
 
 

“Laws that forbid the carrying of arms disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes.” --Thomas Jefferson quoting Cesare Beccaria

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Not sure why changing the ECU's mapping will have any effect on a cable operated, manual clutch. The throttle is a bit abrupt off-idle and this thing has a huge amount of engine braking - both of those can be changed with a reflash.
 
I find the clutch engagement to be pretty short. Combine that with no slipper ability and that huge engine braking, you really do need to match revs carefully while downshifting - especially from 3rd to 2nd where you can light up the rear tire w/o trying (don't ask how I know - my other bike has a slipper and I forget)
 
There are aftermarket slipper clutches for the FZ - they are expensive, but a nice slipper clutch will smooth out a less than perfect rev match.
 
Lube.grease the pivot on the hand lever and maybe even the cable. Then give yourself some more miles before judging - the clucth isn't gonna change.

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Compared to my Daytona the fz07 clutch requires a lot of force to pull and a really short friction zone. That's just the nature of the beast. Fueling should have no effect on clutch feel for the fizz.

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Compared to my Daytona the fz07 clutch requires a lot of force to pull and a really short friction zone. That's just the nature of the beast. Fueling should have no effect on clutch feel for the fizz.
I agree with the short friction zone, but effort to pull the lever? You'd not be happy stuck in traffic with my Aprilia's clutch. The FZ's is butter soft by comparison. 
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Compared to my Daytona the fz07 clutch requires a lot of force to pull and a really short friction zone. That's just the nature of the beast. Fueling should have no effect on clutch feel for the fizz.
I agree with the short friction zone, but effort to pull the lever? You'd not be happy stuck in traffic with my Aprilia's clutch. The FZ's is butter soft by comparison. 
It could have just been my bike. I remember the test bike I rode being much easier to pull the clutch in. Also, the Daytona clutch is super smooth and light.
 
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Triumph and Yamaha - the only thing they share about the clutch is that there is one.
 
Make sure the cable has been routed so it doesn't have any serious bends. Lube the pivot bolt for the lever and spray some drylube like Dupont Teflon stuff down the cable and see if that helps. It shouldn't be all that hard to pull.

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I've not noticed anything strange about the clutch. Engages at the same point every time and can slip it for smooth take off no problem.
 
But I will say shifting became a lot smoother after I had the ECU flashed. I assume the engine and trans just mesh better with the smoother running engine.

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You can extend arm down by engine where cable hooks to. I just welded one few days ago for customer.
This would definitely lighten the pull, however, I  think his and others clutching/shifting issues do stem from the more than usual engine braking. I feel my shifting will be smoother once the ecu is flashed to add some fuel to the decel fuel cut. 
I wouldn't mind an easier pull though so was wondering by how much did you extend the arm, I may just have to give this a try...Mark
 
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About 10mm with 2 holes. He wanted this because of engine braking, said he had more control like that. I did not ride that bike so I don't know how much difference it makes.

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About 10mm with 2 holes. He wanted this because of engine braking, said he had more control like that. I did not ride that bike so I don't know how much difference it makes.
Thanks, I see a way to make a reversible mod just to try it out, if I get around to it I'll report back..Mark 
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  • 1 month later...

Appreciate the feedback ECU decel bog IMO is the driving force behind my dislike of the clutch feel. Engine braking is fine love that alot as it is a god way to stuff the ass outside. Suspension dont like it but that wont be an issue after this winter tear down. looking forward to building out a GNC bike.
 

“Laws that forbid the carrying of arms disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes.” --Thomas Jefferson quoting Cesare Beccaria

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Combine the abrupt nature of this clutch with revs that drop like a stone when you close the throttle, I'm thinking a slipper clutch might make us all happier
 
- and poorer.

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Yeah, I often find it hard to make a real smooth clutch lever release through each gear. It's hard to be precise. If I rev. the gears out a little longer it's somewhat better but I cant seem to find the right technique to be smooth all the time and it bugs the crap out of me. I've owned other bikes and have ridden other bikes where this was not an issue. I attribute this to the fuel cut. I really like my FZ, but this issue has prevented me from really meshing with my machine.

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Have it remapped and just have that fuel cut softened. That would be ~ $300 or so vs. a slipper clutch which is up around a $grand
 
It's a crazy swap fro me when I go from back and forth between the FZ and my RST1000. The revs stay up and float a bit after the Aprilia is warmed up and it has a slipper clutch. I can be a tad lazy with downshifts on that bike and still be far smoother. I've locked up the back wheel of the FZ into a solid skid gong from 3rd to 2nd w/o being sharp with matching revs. Got my attention in a big, big way.

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I agree on the clutch, the shifting itself I find clunky, even missing some shifts occasionally, bike has 400 kilometers and one oil change so far.
A lot of the feel I also agree is due to the ECU engine braking issue. Yesterday I rode with a friend who has a Honda CBR 150cc, yes they make them here in Asia. Anyway, I let him take the lead and paced myself with him. He was riding slowly for the most part. I found the MT 07 really unpleasant to ride at low speeds between the clunky shift and engine braking. At higher speeds its not so bad. Hoping for smoothness over time. and eventual reflash.

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Ive riden 3 07's and none have had excessive engine braking,
but something seems to be upsetting other riders, could it
be that the engine is stalling when the clutch is lifted
between changes? now that could make the tyre chirp a bit
when the clutch was let out in the next gear and it had
to spin the engine back up from dead, it would make sense
that any reflash or adjustment made to stop the engine stalling
as you pick up the revs from tickover would help as if
the engine is stalling or not picking up when you blip
the throttle between down changes it will be just like
bump starting a dead engine. Mine did this a couple of
times on the way home from a recall to fit a new battery lead
but as not done it since, it got better as miles mounted
now over 10,000 and a slight adjustment to richen the tickover
fuel mix as cured it altogether.
 
After All if the engine is not responding to the throttle when
you try to match the revs on a down shift your not likely
to get a smooth change.

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Ive riden 3 07's and none have had excessive engine braking, but something seems to be upsetting other riders, could it
be that the engine is stalling when the clutch is lifted
between changes? now that could make the tyre chirp a bit
when the clutch was let out in the next gear and it had
to spin the engine back up from dead, it would make sense
that any reflash or adjustment made to stop the engine stalling
as you pick up the revs from tickover would help as if
the engine is stalling or not picking up when you blip
the throttle between down changes it will be just like
bump starting a dead engine. Mine did this a couple of
times on the way home from a recall to fit a new battery lead
but as not done it since, it got better as miles mounted
now over 10,000 and a slight adjustment to richen the tickover
fuel mix as cured it altogether.
 
After All if the engine is not responding to the throttle when
you try to match the revs on a down shift your not likely
to get a smooth change.
In my case the engine is not stalling, I find the engine breaking not obnoxious in itself, just that the sudden on throttle to off throttle that does indeed stop all fuel flow suddenly, makes the throttle behave digitally, on or off. At lower speeds its just herky jerky annoying, even if you are not shifting. It is not about rev matching, as when I do that it can be smooth. Aside from that it is a heavy shifter, as compared to many other of the 20 or so bikes I have owned over the years. Granted this is indeed my first FI bike, been purposely riding carb bikes because I know how to tune them. :) But as I said it only has  400 kilometers on it, I really like it in every way, and I'm getting more and more accustomed to it.
 
 
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Yes the engine braking with a stock ECU is a bit... excessive. But I've found it to be quite useful when bustling through the lanes of traffic here in LA. After the ecu reflash it has become much more tame and smoother with the shifts. But either situation I never had an issue with downshifts with this gearbox. Took me all of about 2 days to figure it out. I use the blip method of downshifting, blipping the throttle to rev match before I let the clutch out. It was actually quite easy to learn on this bike, especially when you know the engine braking will kick in heavy once you let the clutch go. Have yet to lock up the rear tire even when heavy braking and downshifting simultaneously. It's just a matter of learning the bike until it becomes second nature to know the sounds of your engine. Getting the yoshi full exhaust put on def aided with that big time lol. If you don't have much experience using a clutch, then obviously it will take longer to master. I don't see a need for a slipper clutch on our FZs unless your track racing it. Nowadays I welcome the feel of a strong pull from the motor when you bang the gears up and down. Makes you feel manly when you get it right and the bike barks at you! Haha

'15 Pearl White FZ-07 | Yoshi R77 Exhaust | ECU Reflash | Mad Hornets Shorty Levers | EvoTech Rad Guard | Yamaha Comfort Saddle | TST Industries Integrated Taillight | Motodynamics Fender Eliminator | Yamaha OEM Front LED Signals | Phillips MaxVision 130+ Bulb | OES Front/Rear Axle Sliders | Driven Racing TT Rearsets | Woodcraft 1.5" Clip-Ons | Woodcraft Engine & Water Pump Crash Cover | OEM Motocage Cage | LEDGlow SMD Mini Advanced Lighting Kit | Gilles Tooling Gauge Relocation Kit |

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In my case the engine is not stalling, I find the engine breaking not obnoxious in itself, just that the sudden on throttle to off throttle that does indeed stop all fuel flow suddenly, makes the throttle behave digitally, on or off. At lower speeds its just herky jerky annoying, even if you are not shifting. It is not about rev matching, as when I do that it can be smooth. Aside from that it is a heavy shifter, as compared to many other of the 20 or so bikes I have owned over the years. Granted this is indeed my first FI bike, been purposely riding carb bikes because I know how to tune them. :) But as I said it only has  400 kilometers on it, I really like it in every way, and I'm getting more and more accustomed to it.
 

The gearchange will get better especially after the first 600 mile oil change, it's like a switch on mine admittedly after 10,000 miles but was never bad, I to have had many carbed bikes and would not be upset at having to
go back, but if you are taking the bike back for it's first service I would complain about the throttle response
as the ones I have ridden have not been like that.
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I agree on the clutch, the shifting itself I find clunky, even missing some shifts occasionally, bike has 400 kilometers and one oil change so far. A lot of the feel I also agree is due to the ECU engine braking issue. Yesterday I rode with a friend who has a Honda CBR 150cc, yes they make them here in Asia. Anyway, I let him take the lead and paced myself with him. He was riding slowly for the most part. I found the MT 07 really unpleasant to ride at low speeds between the clunky shift and engine braking. At higher speeds its not so bad. Hoping for smoothness over time. and eventual reflash.
I have to agree with you on the low speed attributes of the FZ.  I have yet to establish the ergos I would like on the bike, this winter will do, Feel it is a combo of the shetty front suspension and them stinking bridgestones.  I hate bridgestones, but I will wear them down until I opt to Q3s.   
Flash? yes that was apparent the first time I rode the bike stock has to go.  I normally will pull the bike apart when i get it home, but the dang thing wheelies so nice.  Far different than me R1 :)
 
I have already gone through a few heat cycles, now running Amsoil which I swear by shifting is not a problem.  I will more than likely do my own mods for the clutch, slipper NOPE, not a slipper guy, I want engine breaking
 

“Laws that forbid the carrying of arms disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes.” --Thomas Jefferson quoting Cesare Beccaria

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  • 3 weeks later...
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Ralph, I think the "perception" of a problem is quite subjective and depends on what the individual rider is used to and/or how long they give themselves to adjust to the 07... or whatever they are riding. Of course, there are objective differences, but that is often over-ridden by perception, bias, expectations, etc. Also, shifting among a number of bikes doesn't help this. I've a bunch of very different cars and I have to readjust moving from one to the other, especially if I've only been driving one quite a bit for a while.

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