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Which Exhaust for Max Performace?


bill3753

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As the title states, which aftermarket exhaust will perform best. I don't care about ascetics, sound, or anything else. Simply, which when combined with a ECU Flash and hi flow air filter will produce the most horsepower and torque?
 
I've seen the dyno charts from 2 Wheel DynoWorks in a thread on this forum. It appears the Akrapovic Ti shows best in that thread, but I'm sure they're not on the same bike, same day, same atmospheric conditions. Same day, same bike, same mods, which will make the most?
 
For reference, here is the best data I've found so far:
 
http://fz07.org/thread/2625/fz-07-flash-dyno-charts

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Guest 2wheeler

... and if you want the baffle in, think about the Yoshi
 
Yoshi is well built, much cheaper, and has one of the highest HP ratings other then the Akra Ti with the baffle out. Be aware, that 2WDW has said that to get those HP [HASH]s, you need to run premium gas with the Akra.
 

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Any aftermarket exhaust with ECU reflash and a Hordpower Airbox will make impressive numbers but just using an aftermarket exhaust and ECU reflash and then having a dyno tuner tune it to your general locale will be the answer you are looking for...your not gonna feel the 1hp one brand offers over the next brand...my vote is for Leo Vince...

2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition...2015 fj-09- 120whp- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich Race Kit- tuned by 2WDW
 

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The strongest setup out of the box is hord intake, yoshimura exhaust, and hord pcv tune. Nothing else comes close.
Yet.....  I hear there is at least one major player out there working on an option for the Hord intake that will give at least the same results as well as rain protection. 
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The strongest setup out of the box is hord intake, yoshimura exhaust, and hord pcv tune. Nothing else comes close.
I disagree.  Look at these dyno charts here 

:) 
From 8,500 - 10,000 rpm, the combo you mentioned does have better gains, but from 4,000-8,000 rpm, where most people spend most of their time, the other combo has better gains and spread of power overall for the area under the curve.
 
You can't look at the numbers either, as there are too many variances...different dyno's, different weather conditions, and different engine spec (I believe the Hordpower chart was on a mild superbike motor build).
 
The take away from looking at these two dyno charts is GAINS FROM STOCK AIRBOX AND FILTER, which both charts show.
 
One chart clearly shows the gains from stock airbox are between 5,200 - 6,000rpm, and again at 6,200 - 10,000rpm, with the significant difference coming in at 8,500 - 10,000rpm
 
The other chart shows better gains just about everywhere over the other combo, starting at 4,000 rpm, but drops off at 9,000rpm.
 
So based on that, I'd have to disagree with you that, "The strongest setup out of the box is hord intake, yoshimura exhaust, and hord pcv tune, and that nothing else comes close.", because the charts show the other combo actually has better gains everywhere, except from 8,500 - 10,000 rpm.
 
:)
 
- Paulie
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Who's ECU flash, who's filter?
The top graph was the HordPower Airbox, and his PCV tune. 
The bottom graph was the DNA Filter and DNA Cover, with a PCV tune.
 
I've since swapped out the DNA filter for the MWR filter, and the MWR filter made a little more HP everywhere, which is what the thread I linked to with the dyno charts was all about.
 
:)
 
- Paulie
 
 
 
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Invalid comparison. Waaaaaay too much different stuff going on in those charts to compare. But it is true I biased my airbox more toward top end power, because midrange power is not something this bike lacks.
 
As to exhausts, my testing has shown no clear winners. The Yosh seems to be a very good bang for the buck, and the Arrow "long" system does pretty well too. It's hard to go wrong, just because none of them really seem to offer big gains. There is some exhaust mystery yet to be unlocked.

J.D. Hord
 

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Invalid comparison. Waaaaaay too much different stuff going on in those charts to compare. But it is true I biased my airbox more toward top end power, because midrange power is not something this bike lacks.  
As to exhausts, my testing has shown no clear winners. The Yosh seems to be a very good bang for the buck, and the Arrow "long" system does pretty well too. It's hard to go wrong, just because none of them really seem to offer big gains. There is some exhaust mystery yet to be unlocked.
I agree the comparison has a lot going on...but for what I was trying to show, I still think it's a fair comparison... 
I was just trying to show gains from stock airbox to a different solution, and as far as I know these are the best charts that isolate the gains from stock when changing airbox, or filter and cover...all else things being equal, respectively.
 
Don't get me wrong, I LOVE your solution, and for what I do (mostly track), it's probably a better solution.  But for someone to say that "Nothing else comes close" is a little misleading.
 
:)
 
As to the question the OP originally asked...I agree with @hordboy in that there isn't really a definitive answer as of yet as to which exhaust is the best...
 
- Paulie
 
 
 
 
 
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No, I am not saying mine is best. Here is a bit better info on my airbox. Bone stock bike + airbox, no tuning. 2nd chart adds tuning. 3rd party test.
 
 
fzairboxstockexh.jpg
 
fzairboxstockwtune.jpg
 
 

J.D. Hord
 

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Who's ECU flash, who's filter?
The top graph was the HordPower Airbox, and his PCV tune. 
The bottom graph was the DNA Filter and DNA Cover, with a PCV tune.
 
I've since swapped out the DNA filter for the MWR filter, and the MWR filter made a little more HP everywhere, which is what the thread I linked to with the dyno charts was all about.
 
:)
 
- Paulie
 
 

I like that you have proof of what you say but also state the jury is still out. Thanks for your honesty!+10! That's all I ask of anyone. Well, maybe pics or it didn't happen, lol!  ;)

Beemer

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The top graph was the HordPower Airbox, and his PCV tune. 
The bottom graph was the DNA Filter and DNA Cover, with a PCV tune.
 
I've since swapped out the DNA filter for the MWR filter, and the MWR filter made a little more HP everywhere, which is what the thread I linked to with the dyno charts was all about.
 
:)
 
- Paulie
 
 

I like that you have proof of what you say but also state the jury is still out. Thanks for your honesty!+10! That's all I ask of anyone. Well, maybe pics or it didn't happen, lol!  ;)
 
Both solutions are worthy and viable in my opinion.  There is a reason why Andy of AP MotoArts uses the HordPower Airbox for his FZ-07R's...they work, and work quite well.
 
But when I see a statement that says nothing else comes close, I'd say that's true if we're talking about high rpm gains, but since that wasn't really clarified, it's a little misleading, that's all.
 
:)
 
- Paulie
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The strongest setup out of the box is hord intake, yoshimura exhaust, and hord pcv tune. Nothing else comes close.
I disagree.  Look at these dyno charts here 

:) 
From 8,500 - 10,000 rpm, the combo you mentioned does have better gains, but from 4,000-8,000 rpm, where most people spend most of their time, the other combo has better gains and spread of power overall for the area under the curve.
 
You can't look at the numbers either, as there are too many variances...different dyno's, different weather conditions, and different engine spec (I believe the Hordpower chart was on a mild superbike motor build).
 
The take away from looking at these two dyno charts is GAINS FROM STOCK AIRBOX AND FILTER, which both charts show.
 
One chart clearly shows the gains from stock airbox are between 5,200 - 6,000rpm, and again at 6,200 - 10,000rpm, with the significant difference coming in at 8,500 - 10,000rpm
 
The other chart shows better gains just about everywhere over the other combo, starting at 4,000 rpm, but drops off at 9,000rpm.
 
So based on that, I'd have to disagree with you that, "The strongest setup out of the box is hord intake, yoshimura exhaust, and hord pcv tune, and that nothing else comes close.", because the charts show the other combo actually has better gains everywhere, except from 8,500 - 10,000 rpm.
 
:)
 
- Paulie
You can't really say with absolute certainty that your setup has better gains everywhere under 8k, given the different dynos, and other variables involved.  
 
I have had the Graves exhaust, Chuck Graves tune, and the snorkel removed from the stock airbox.  Been there, done that.  From my butt dyno, the Hord setup is stronger north of 6k.  Substantially stronger.  No aftermarket filter or DNA lid on the stock airbox will make up that difference, given the marginal gains for those items.  That and Hord's tune is absolutely the most comprehensive, cleanest running tune available for the PCV at the moment with fuel maps for every gear.  
 
All that being said, the thread title is with regards to "max performance".  The rear biased FZ07 chassis will wheelie in first gear wide open throttle in the mid-range, so you have to dial back torque with your wrist.  After revving it out, and shifting to 2nd, you will never see the midrange again.  Only the top end.  What little you saw of the mid-range, you neutered with the throttle.  
 
Even in most slow corners at full lean at the apex, you can't use full drive out of the corner with the midrange, you progressively add throttle until the bike is more upright.  At that point, you're back in the top end.
 
What I'm getting at is, with regards to max performance, midrange is irrelevant.  At most, you need midrange to spool the engine back up to the top end when you're caught between gears, but this can be done just as easily with shorter gearing.  You don't need midrange specific engine modifications. Especially when the Hord setup doesn't negatively affect the FZ07's already strong midrange.  
 
The better question is, which exhaust facilitates the use of the most powerful setup.  Not necessarily which exhaust offers the most power.  
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@thomascrown...
 
Let get this thread back on topic, shall we? I'm just gonna leave it at this :)
 

Any aftermarket exhaust with ECU reflash and a Hordpower Airbox will make impressive numbers but just using an aftermarket exhaust and ECU reflash and then having a dyno tuner tune it to your general locale will be the answer you are looking for...your not gonna feel the 1hp one brand offers over the next brand...
 
 
My apologies to the OP for derailing his thread...it was certainly not my intention.
 
:)
 
- Paulie
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Yeap, we all agree on that statement. Just don't get the Graves. It's hot garbage, and has already corroded to hell for me. Expected more from it to be honest.

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Yeap, we all agree on that statement. Just don't get the Graves. It's hot garbage, and has already corroded to hell for me. Expected more from it to be honest.
Really?  That's sad to hear.  Although I haven't seen one for the FZ-07 in person, I was under the impression that Graves made pretty high quality stuff. 
- Paulie
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Yeap, we all agree on that statement. Just don't get the Graves. It's hot garbage, and has already corroded to hell for me. Expected more from it to be honest.
Really?  That's sad to hear.  Although I haven't seen one for the FZ-07 in person, I was under the impression that Graves made pretty high quality stuff. 
- Paulie
The early versions were SS, and I think they had enough of a corrosion issue to where they moved to titanium headers on both the FZ09 and FZ07. You're likely not going to run into the corrosion issue on the titanium pipe, but that titanium is soft as butter, and will pit from debris.  Keep in mind my bike has 35k miles, if you don't ride as much, you may be okay.  
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