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tony04

First oil change issue!!

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tony04
So I just reached my 600 mile mark and just changed out the filter and oil. I let the old oil drain very well before closing it all back up. I added the recommended 2.6L of new oil. Ran the bike for a few minutes to circulate. After shutting the bike off and waiting about 5 minutes, the oil level in the sight glass is completely full and over the top of the window. Am I missing a step? I'm stumped on why it is over filled!!

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bmwpowere36m3
Is the bike on the side stand? If so it needs to be straight up…. helps to have a helper hold it. By yourself, carefully, hold it up while kneeling and look down at the window. The level should drop somewhat, unless its truly over-filled.
 
Besides that, I assume you replaced the filter and let it drain?

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tony04
It is vertical. That's why I'm so confused

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bmwpowere36m3
Tip it slighty to the right, does the level come down?
 
The oil level could be below the sight glass and you just think its full.
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tony04
Yes when I tip it over to the right I can see the level come down into the sight glass..

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bmwpowere36m3
I would drain some oil then…

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bigdaddybane
As bmwpowere36m3 said, just drain some oil and check it again.

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tony04
Thx guys. Just stumped why after adding the correct amount that it is reading high..

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bmwpowere36m3
The fill amounts are approximations... I always fill just short of the recommendations and pour the last bit while I look at the sight glass. Typically I'll pour in 2 quarts from the get go and start pouring the third quart slowly while looking at the sight glass. I'll fill it to the top of the sight glass while on the side stand (replaced the filter).
 
Start the engine, let the oil circulate for 10-20 seconds and shut down. Hold bike upright on stands and do the final oil level checks. Pour in a little oil, check window, pour a little check, etc...
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tony04
Thanks man. I'll be sure to do that on the next change

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rick
if you drain some oil, loosen the filter instead of trying to hold the drain bolt in place. You might have to let it stop dripping, tighten the filter, fire it up to refill the filter and repeat until the level is correct.
 
Overfilling seems easy to do as there's not much oil needed to go from full to overfilled.

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dony
 My first oil change the same thing happened to me, on the next change I let the bike warm up until the oil was hot then drained it with the bike on the rear stand only so the front was lower than the back. After refilling and checking with the bike on the ground and vertical the level was exactly where it should be. I am sure the first time I did not completely drain all the oil out. I think the key is to make sure the oil is warm and lifting the rear of the bike definitely helps.

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norcal616
The oil level is checked with bike running...it's always gonna be full in the window when off if properly filled

2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition...2015 fj-09- 120whp- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich Race Kit- tuned by 2WDW
 

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mjh937
The oil level is checked with bike running...it's always gonna be full in the window when off if properly filled
The owners manual says to run the engine, turn it off, wait a few minutes and then check the oil. The engine should be off when you check it. 

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jerryv
 
That's definitely incorrect.  The idea is to run the bike to circulate the oil, fill the filter and let it settle to get rid of air pockets.  Then check it a after giving it a few minutes to settle.
 

The oil level is checked with bike running...it's always gonna be full in the window when off if properly filled
 

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norcal616
I dunno what to say...I add pretty close to what the book says...but I'm not adding oil as it's running...I also do not change my filter every change...yes I let it run for less than maybe 7secs to check oil level and add more if needed, filter change requires a tad more after each change which is a given...as long as I have owned this bike run its running its oil level is pretty close to top notch on sight glass...I will admit oil changes are like ones choice in religion...

2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition...2015 fj-09- 120whp- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich Race Kit- tuned by 2WDW
 

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Guest ChicagoAJ
I dunno what to say...I add pretty close to what the book says...but I'm not adding oil as it's running...I also do not change my filter every change...yes I let it run for less than maybe 7secs to check oil level and add more if needed, filter change requires a tad more after each change which is a given...as long as I have owned this bike run its running its oil level is pretty close to top notch on sight glass...I will admit oil changes are like ones choice in religion...
Then you're using too much oil... Oil has better places to be than in the sight glass when the bike is running. Read the manual, you check the bike's oil level after it's just recently been turned off so you know oil is everywhere that needs lubrication as well as the sight glass so you don't get bogus readings.  
As far as not changing the filter, it's just cheap insurance to put a fresh filter on after every oil change. To each their own, I guess. 

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bmwpowere36m3
The oil level will read a little lower when the engine is running… I know of no manufacturer or person for that matter that checks with the engine running. Regardless, a little over/under won't hurt anything. And "little" is a judgement call, best to keep the oil level between the two marks on the side glass.
 
My preference, get the oil level somewhere between the lines during the oil change and after a good ride, shut the bike down, let it sit for a minute or two and recheck. The oil level should have risen a little, but still be between the marks. YMMV

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sorkyah
The oil level will read a little lower when the engine is running… I know of no manufacturer or person for that matter that checks with the engine running. Regardless, a little over/under won't hurt anything. And "little" is a judgement call, best to keep the oil level between the two marks on the side glass. 
My preference, get the oil level somewhere between the lines during the oil change and after a good ride, shut the bike down, let it sit for a minute or two and recheck. The oil level should have risen a little, but still be between the marks. YMMV
Chrsysler transmissions are checked at op temp and while in neutral... oil... no so much
start up, run for a min shut off, go find a rag/paper towel, check level
 
thats my personal oil change verification checklist at work
i do the same with my bike
Except replace find rag with grab a 3" thick chunk of wood and place under sidestand foot to put bike level
 
***i dont recommend this as it makes the bike very unstable, i usually have my bike up against the wall when i check my oil level so if it falls to the right, the wall should stop it from going all the way over***

ATGATT... ATTATT, two acronyms I live by.
 

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bmwpowere36m3
The oil level will read a little lower when the engine is running… I know of no manufacturer or person for that matter that checks with the engine running. Regardless, a little over/under won't hurt anything. And "little" is a judgement call, best to keep the oil level between the two marks on the side glass. 
My preference, get the oil level somewhere between the lines during the oil change and after a good ride, shut the bike down, let it sit for a minute or two and recheck. The oil level should have risen a little, but still be between the marks. YMMV
Chrsysler transmissions are checked at op temp and while in neutral... oil... no so much start up, run for a min shut off, go find a rag/paper towel, check level
 
thats my personal oil change verification checklist at work
i do the same with my bike
Except replace find rag with grab a 3" thick chunk of wood and place under sidestand foot to put bike level
 
***i dont recommend this as it makes the bike very unstable, i usually have my bike up against the wall when i check my oil level so if it falls to the right, the wall should stop it from going all the way over***
Sure, I wasn't going to bring it up, Mercedes transmissions (auto) are checked with the car level, in park and the engine running.  On the newer cars they don't provide a dipstick (just a plug over the tube).  You need a "special" dipstick to check the level (though they can be purchased online).  On the newest its all done via sensors and you need scan tools to reset things like engine oil, transmission, service intervals, brake pad wear, etc...  Really trying to make it difficult for the independent shop, no less "Joe" to work on them.... but that's not really applicable.
 

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Beemer
When I got my bike new the window was filled just the same as yours before I ever got into the manual to see how much oil it takes or question the oil level. I rode it like that until my first oil change with no problems. I just did an oil change and the manual says 2.75 quarts with a new filter and I only put 2.50 so that I could add to it in increments to get it fully filled without going over but the oil filled the window. I didn't put any more in after that and it's running fine.

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rick
Yamaha seems to claim oil capacity with the same error as they claim fuel capacity. Unless every gas pump I've used is wrong, there's no way that tank will hold 3.7 gallons - it's more like 3.3
 
I do plenty enough measuring at work - I just fill until the level is at or near the upper marks - motor off and bike level.

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Guest ChicagoAJ
Yamaha seems to claim oil capacity with the same error as they claim fuel capacity. Unless every gas pump I've used is wrong, there's no way that tank will hold 3.7 gallons - it's more like 3.3  
I do plenty enough measuring at work - I just fill until the level is at or near the upper marks - motor off and bike level.
Have you ever filled it from actually out of gas empty? I've put in over 3.4xx gallons and that was something like 70 miles on f-trip. Could still hear a very small bit of fuel sloshing around when I rocked it side to side. I fill very high as well. Usually until it overflows a bit. 

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rick
I only fill until it reaches the metal part - which is where manual tells ya to stop. I'd prefer not having fuel just spill out the overflow
 
I will go well out of my way to never run a fuel pump dry - it shortens their life as the fuel both lubricates and helps keep the pump cool - so i've not done this experiment and haven't had to drain the tank. But when my gauge starts to flash, I've never been able to put more than 2.6 gallons back in. If the "reserve" is truly 0.7 gallons, that would bring the tank capacity to 3.3, maybe 3.4 gallons. Again, the specs say 3.7 gallons - maybe that includes the fuel line, lol. Certainly not in thefilter as there is none. I've also read others saying the same thing on other forums, so I'm not the only one.

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Guest ChicagoAJ
I always do at least 30 miles on the f-trip and rarely put in more than 3 gallons. I might try to run it dry someday, but for now 3.4xx was my biggest fill up. From empty empty, 3.7 gallons is probably possible.

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