motocr Posted July 20, 2016 Author Share Posted July 20, 2016 Keep in mind that when you are rolling along and off the gas, the chain will be tight on the bottom run as the wheel pulls the chain backwards. The slack then moves to the top run. W/o that guard, the chain would dig into the swinger. I hear a noise that sounds a bit like a vibration right around 3k in the 1st 3 gears when I accelerate slowly. I've learned from my Rotax that noises that sound like something is about to blow up will sound exactly the same 30k miles from now. Sometimes ya just have to ignore them. As to why your chain has eaten into that guard, dunno. A too tight chain would not cause this. Maybe one that's way too loose would. The guard on mine can be moved, but maybe not quite so much as yours. Can't tell from the video, but is yours fixed to the swinger at the front? It should be. It is fixed at both locations, after relubing the chain and riding around it is rubbing alot less I guess it sorted itself out its just the bottom little bit now so it seems to be sorting itself out. However in the video where I am accelerating on and off it was to show the noise I am hearing that is only under acceleration it sounds almost like a electric razor/something winding up, I can not figure out what it is but it does not seem to be typical chain noise and I also hear creaking, which could just be from the frame flexing a bit when turning, I may wind up talking to the dealer on saturday and seeing what they say about it. I know the bike is quiet but these noises only started happening around the time the chain started rubbing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmwpowere36m3 Posted July 20, 2016 Share Posted July 20, 2016 I don't think your that experienced to be making those kinds of judgments... that high-pitched sound (like a electric razor) is "normal" chain noise. When you put the camera/mic right next to it, its going to stand out. When my dirt bike chain gets loose and grimy I hear that same sound at lower speeds (less wind noise). On the FZ-07 I only hear that noise when I'm next to something solid (barrier, wall, vehicles, etc.). I can even still hear it once in a while with my aftermarket exhaust. Members have swapped chains/sprockets for aftermarket and things have quieted down... Usually OE chains are good and last... but the OE stuff is "noisy" on this bike. Your so stuck on rubbing, I don't see anything rubbing... just a dirty slider with accumulated dirt/lube. The chain will lay on the upper slider when your not sitting on the bike and not under power, period. Doesn't mean, its always rubbing it while riding (at least it shouldn't). I don't know what so hard about setting chain tension.. bike on side stand, measure down from the rib on rear of the slider (underside of swingarm) down to the middle of the chain side plate, while very lightly pulling the chain down... should be 2-2.25" (approx.). Adjust as necessary and make sure you have the same # of marks on both sides of the swingarm. Properly adjusted, bike on side stand, you should be able to push the chain up lightly and touch that same rib you measured from. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted July 20, 2016 Share Posted July 20, 2016 HAve no idea what would be causing this "creaking" noise you are hearing, but it cannot be the frame - unless it's cracked somehow or the motor mounts are loose - neither of which is likely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kawinight Posted August 2, 2016 Share Posted August 2, 2016 I was adjusting and cleaning my chain yesterday and noticed the same. The upper chain guide was being rubbed through by the chain. The center "raised" part of the guide is supposed to be centered on he chain but it's not. The left links are rubbing/riding on the center "raised" portion causing the chain to eat through the guide instead of riding on it center to center. I'll take another look tomorrow. I was doing some research on the issue and happened upon your thread. Let me know if you come up with a fix etc... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huntb Posted August 2, 2016 Share Posted August 2, 2016 Your chain looks loose. When you pull down on it measure from the swingarm (rib on bottom rear) to the CENTER of the chain. Should be 2-2.2 inches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kawinight Posted August 2, 2016 Share Posted August 2, 2016 Your chain looks loose. When you pull down on it measure from the swingarm (rib on bottom rear) to the CENTER of the chain. Should be 2-2.2 inches. He already did Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jiggier Posted August 30, 2016 Share Posted August 30, 2016 I was adjusting and cleaning my chain yesterday and noticed the same. The upper chain guide was being rubbed through by the chain. The center "raised" part of the guide is supposed to be centered on he chain but it's not. The left links are rubbing/riding on the center "raised" portion causing the chain to eat through the guide instead of riding on it center to center. I'll take another look tomorrow. I was doing some research on the issue and happened upon your thread. Let me know if you come up with a fix etc... Do we have the same issue? See my thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted August 30, 2016 Share Posted August 30, 2016 Just out of curiosity, do you guys still have the OE shock and what preload setting are you using? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jiggier Posted August 30, 2016 Share Posted August 30, 2016 Just out of curiosity, do you guys still have the OE shock and what preload setting are you using? I still have OE shock and haven't changed preload yet. Does it have and impact on chain noise/durability/etc?I am 95 kg (or 210 lbs) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted August 30, 2016 Share Posted August 30, 2016 Well, that's kinda backwards from what I was thinking - A lot of guys have been cranking up preload w/o consideration to sag to compensate for the lack of quality damping from the shock. Doing that stiffens things up, but also would lower the back sprocket in respect to the front and maybe put the chain closer to that guard. At 210 lbs, you probably should have more preload cranked in than the OE 3rd position to compensate for your weight. You really should do some sag measurements. It really is backwards from what I was thinking. If you set the chain slack on the sidestand and then compress the suspension too much cause you don't have enough preload, the chain will get tighter as the suspension gets compressed. hmm - no good answers to this issue, but it might still be related - need more data Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
etorty Posted September 2, 2016 Share Posted September 2, 2016 Today I had the same bad suprise: the rubber guide is worn in the rear part. But the central part is bent in the outside direction. It seems that the part near the axle of the swingarm is pushing in the rear direction, causing the bending. The chain slack is ok, and I check this every time I lube the chain. I've changed the OE mono (with the excellent Bitubo XXF11) at the start of this season, and my 07 is a little higher than stock due to the preload of the new mono. I'm wondering how much the augmented height of my 07 can contribute to this problem. www.MT-Series.it Yamaha Official MT-Series Club Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
etorty Posted September 2, 2016 Share Posted September 2, 2016 I remember that a user had worn out even the swing arm, due to the unexpected worn of the rubber guide. But I can' find the relevant thread... Please, can someone find this for me? I've used the "search" function, but no luck. www.MT-Series.it Yamaha Official MT-Series Club Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ChicagoAJ Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 Mine started eating into the chain guide very recently. I noticed a fair bit more than normal chain noise/chatter - especially in turns. After looking at everything I can see that the chain guide is almost eaten through to the swingarm and there's a spot where it looks like the chain actually hit the swingarm since the powder coat is now gone in that area. Maybe a centimeter long line, nothing crazy (see picture at bottom for what mine looks like, not my picture) I checked the slack and I was about 2.25-2.3 inches with light pressure applied to the top of the lower run of the chain, it was sitting just slightly over 2 inches of slack with no pressure at all - my bad. I'm only at 3,700 miles on the ODO and the only other time I adjusted the chain was around 150 miles or so when it was REALLY loose, maybe 3 inches of slack. I check the chain every 500 miles when I clean and lube it so it randomly stretched somewhere in there pretty quickly, I was normally around 2.1 inches of slack for at least 3,000 miles. However, I have been getting more and more into wheelies lately so I'm sure all that hammering on the throttle has not been very kind to the chain. I went ahead and ordered a new chain guide for $9.01, kind of silly to not change it for that price. It's a pretty easy install, it only fastens to the underside of the swingarm with 2 snap fittings and 1 on the top side. Then just pull it backwards and it's off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteinpa Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 You do mean easy like with the bike assembled right??? Not like the pic. Got new red 2015 FZ-07 on 7/22/16! Black 2006 Honda ST1300 53K miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ChicagoAJ Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 You do mean easy like with the bike assembled right??? Not like the pic.Hahaha, correct. You can do it with the bike on the side stand and no tools (I'm pretty sure). You can pull the top and bottom push-style clips out of their position on the swingarm and once you get the 2 clips on the bottom undone and the one clip on the top out, all you do is pull the top part and bottom part of the guide backwards towards the sprocket and it releases from the left side of the swingarm and just pulls off completely. So 24 is the chain guide/slider. The 3 red arrows point to the clips that are just press fit into the swingarm. Once you get all those undone, just pull the whole part backwards and it'll pop out (looks like once it releases it'll have to come out forward by the side-stand. The guide/slider only cost 9 bucks. That's what it looks like in the fiche pages at least. I'll include a picture below: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteinpa Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 Looks like this bike is a candidate for a urethane (think skate board wheels) chain slider. A couple of after market companies make them for various dirt bikes. Got new red 2015 FZ-07 on 7/22/16! Black 2006 Honda ST1300 53K miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ChicagoAJ Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 Looks like this bike is a candidate for a urethane (think skate board wheels) chain slider. A couple of after market companies make them for various dirt bikes. If you find one for our bikes, let me know! I was thinking about trying to rig up my own thing, but it's just too much work. 9 bucks to replace it isn't that bad, especially when I let the chain get too loose and chew up mine. My mistake, but wheelies are just too much fun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
etorty Posted September 17, 2016 Share Posted September 17, 2016 Yesterday I've seen a couple of used MT-07 in the show room of my Yamaha dealer. One MT-07 with 10k km had the chain guide more worn than mine. I've changed mine yesterday, at 27k km. Strange thing. I've noticed that the swing arm, on some new bikes (MT-07 and XSR700), is perfectly symmetric where they attaches to the frame. In my bike the space between the swing arm and the frame, on the left side, is 3,5 mm. On the right side is about 1,5 mm. In the new bikes those spaces are about 2 mm on either the two sides. From the Service manual: my bike, left side: the bike of a friend, nearly symmetric: Mh... I'm wondering IF the movement of the swing arm in left or right direction on their axle can aggravate the wear of the chain guide. Your thoughts?? www.MT-Series.it Yamaha Official MT-Series Club Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motocr Posted September 17, 2016 Author Share Posted September 17, 2016 I was adjusting and cleaning my chain yesterday and noticed the same. The upper chain guide was being rubbed through by the chain. The center "raised" part of the guide is supposed to be centered on he chain but it's not. The left links are rubbing/riding on the center "raised" portion causing the chain to eat through the guide instead of riding on it center to center. I'll take another look tomorrow. I was doing some research on the issue and happened upon your thread. Let me know if you come up with a fix etc... Sorry for the super late reply work and classes have kept me busy and ran across a more prevalent problem with my buddies bikes forks bent so after fixing that I can focus on my fz now. I havee literally the exact same problem on the outside of the chain guide mine looks almost torn but that raised portion is rubbing the chain and leaving a visible mark taking the lube off the side. I just got an alignment tool I'm going to check (mines set by the marks and wouldn't be off by alot), gonna see if it's off from that. I'm glad it's not just me noticing this makes me feel a bit better as a noob. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted September 17, 2016 Share Posted September 17, 2016 My gap on that right side is tighter. Think the gap on the left side is quite the same, but also tighter. This is how I check chain slack. that piece of hardboard is 4" long and just a bit over 2,3/16" wide (that translates to 2.19" or so). It's pretty snug in there, but I can turn the wheel backwards - pushing that block forward - and it'll stay put. I just checked and there are no loose (it'll fall out) or tight (t'll bind) spots thankfully. Yeah, it's not where the manual shows to measure, but with it set by this gauge, if you remove it and use a finger to pull the chain down and measure with a ruler from the flat of the rubber bit just behind the raised guide and the middle of the pivot pins ( I believe this is what the manual describes) I have a shade over 2.25". Perfect. I did this with the bike on a rear stand, so it's cheating a bit, but the gauge feels about the same when it's on the side stand, so i think it's OK. I have another gauge for my April's chain that gives me the specified inch for that bike. btw, this is what freshly oiled, w/excess wiped off looks like http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/rashapir/chain_zpsvjgbvxyk.jpg. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ChicagoAJ Posted September 19, 2016 Share Posted September 19, 2016 That seems loose according to manual, @rick . Mine was between 2.25 and 2.3 inches of slack depending on how much I pushed down when measuring, but I still wasn't pushing very hard. My chain guide is pretty much toast on the end nearest the rear sprocket. I'll post a picture when I get my new one in. However, we probably ride our bikes very, very differently. I ride mine very hard - wheelies, drifting to red lights by locking the rear brake, and riding near redline a lot of the time, almost always in the top 1/3 of the tach. I have just a hair under 4,000 miles right now and my chain guide is toast, even have some marks on the swingarm where the chain went through the powdercoating because the guide was so worn down, however, I'm not sure how long was chain was so loose for - so it's definitely my fault. I just tightened my chain up this weekend and now I'm on the tighter side of the proper slack spec according to the manual, at just a hair over 2 inches to mid-link when light pressure is applied to the top of the chain. Holy crap, it's like riding a completely new bike. Shifting is more crisp, the chain doesn't chatter in turns, and on/off throttle isn't as jerky. The chain also sits higher on the guide near the swingarm and doesn't sag down near the end of the chain guide by the rear sprocket. Hopefully it won't stretch so quickly again, but it probably will. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick Posted September 19, 2016 Share Posted September 19, 2016 Hmm. There's a brake on the back wheel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ChicagoAJ Posted September 19, 2016 Share Posted September 19, 2016 Hmm. There's a brake on the back wheel? Nah, it's an extra. Doesn't come stock with one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteinpa Posted September 23, 2016 Share Posted September 23, 2016 17 tooth front sprocket would help. Got new red 2015 FZ-07 on 7/22/16! Black 2006 Honda ST1300 53K miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ChicagoAJ Posted September 26, 2016 Share Posted September 26, 2016 So I put my new chain guide on this weekend and the whole install with no tools and bike on the sidestand took maybe 2-3 minutes. Super easy. Hopefully this one lasts longer than 3,820 miles. I just need to be more diligent with checking my chain slack and wheel alignment... Oops. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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