603nytroxtx Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 Hey all! I just got back in from the garage after finally finding a great solution to the problem I've been having with my bike. You may or may not know about this issue but there is a good amount of people that have had an issue with the starter switch getting stuck in the "start" position after they start their bike. The problem with this is that if you're not looking for it you most likely wouldn't notice that the switch didn't go all the way back to the "run" position. [span] [/span]I first noticed this problem about a year after I owned the bike when the check engine light stayed on after I started the bike a few times here and there. I looked online and noticed there were quite a few forums including this one that had threads about people with the same issue. I couldn't believe it but the only "solution" that everyone was giving was to "take it to the dealer and get it warrantied" which I couldn't do or to just lube it up with WD-40. I was dumbfounded that nobody had even attempted to find out what the problem was inside of the switch like it was some type of Pandora's box. I lubed mine up with WD-40 and kept on with life and didn't notice any other issues as I always made sure that after I started the bike that the switch was in the correct "run" position. [span] [/span]Well my half a** fix came back to bite me in the ass this past winter when I went to start the bike up and left it running while I ran to the grocery store. I came back to a dead bike. No electrical. NOTHING. Couldn't get anything with the key turn. I gave up and did some research only to find that I had no idea what was wrong. Next morning I went out and luckily I could get the bike to turn on and the fuel pump to go but when I tried to start it all I heard was a single "pop" noise come from under the seat every time I hit the starter. I had an error come up on the dash as well that gave me the options of only about 3,497 problems it could possibly be and all being electrical based. Anyway long story short I the starter relay on the bike because of the switch getting stuck in the "start" position. $35 later I am back up and running. [span] [/span]Fast forward to this past Father's day. Riding back home in the dark and hit what I can only imagine was a 2 lb bumble bee dead center of my shield. Pulled over, turned the bike off, and proceeded to clean. I was in a rush to get home and when I started my bike back up I forgot to check the starter position. As I'm driving along I notice that every time I pull the clutch to change gears my headlight dims and as soon as I'm back in gear it's fine again. I also notice that at the same time the headlight is dimming the check engine light pops on and goes off when back in gear. Pulled up to a stoplight and put it into neutral only to have to have the check engine light stay on for good. A lightbulb immediately went off and I have the switch a ever so light tap and it went back into the "run" position and everything was back to normal. I was f*****g pissed when I got home and said I have to fix this problem once and for all. Sorry for such a long story (I'm venting my frustrations). Here is what you need to fix it!!! Two long phillips head bolts on the bottom of the switch assembly gets it to crack open. One more small phillips screw holds the half moon protector shield over the moving parts. Let me say this right now. This is a VERY EASY FIX. Anyone can do it. Once you have the shield off you can pull the skinny half moon piece attached to the wires out of the switch housing. This has a spring in it that is supposed to bring the switch back to the "run" position but as we now know that doesn't exactly work as it's supposed to. The very simple problem with this setup is that the spring is simply not strong enough for what it's being asked to do. It's actually a very well designed switch with the contacts and detents to hold the switch in "kill" or "run". -Clean all surfaces on the housing and moving parts of debris (this will help the action slide smoother once it's all back together) -Take the spring out -SWEAR PROFUSELY AT THE SPRING THAT TRIED TO KILL YOUR BIKE -Keep the stock spring just in case -Replace the spring with any thicker gauge spring of your choice!!! The measurements for the STOCK spring are as follows [span] [/span]3/16" Diameter [span] [/span].025" Thick metal [span] [/span]5/8" Long -I bought these from Amazon for $4.99 6 pack of 3/16"x.028"x1". These ones are very strong and do the job well. You might be able to get away with something in the .026" or .027" range but I wanted to be sure it never happens to me again. -Cut one of your new fancy RUGGED bike saving springs to 5/8". Depending on what guage spring you get will depend on how long you can make it. If the metal is too thick it may not be able to compress down to the minimum size required to place the spring into it's home. Also you can continue to cut the spring shorter to make the tension to start the bike less and less. Just be careful that you don't cut it shorter than the minimum required length for it to return to the "run" position detent. So I know there are no pictures to go along with this which most people find very helpful. Three reasons for that: 1. It's honestly a very simple procedure that you should be able to follow my write up sufficiently. 2. The parts are all very small and and you wouldn't be able to tell them apart without some significant effort. 3. I'm lazy / I want to start cleaning my guns!!! I would be happy to give more advice or help with pictures if anyone wants it. I don't know how much interest there will be around this but to me $5 and 20 minutes is a pretty cheap insurance so you don't do any number of bad things to your baby (bike). 2015 FZ-07 Graphite *Yoshimura R-77 Carbon Works Finish *2WDW ECU Flash *OES Sliders *GearBrake Flashing Smart Brake Light *Creese Tail Tidy with LED *TST Industries Flushmount front LED *Motionpro R6 throttle tube *Yamaha Fly Screen *X-Grip with Bruudt mount Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markstertt Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 Thanks for the nice write up, next time I get a chance I'll take a look at that switch and spring...looks like good preventative maintenance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ralph Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 Excellent, factual with a touch of humor how could that post fail, in all honesty a really good post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
603nytroxtx Posted June 23, 2016 Author Share Posted June 23, 2016 Thanks @Ralph and @Markster !!! I appreciate the feedback. 2015 FZ-07 Graphite *Yoshimura R-77 Carbon Works Finish *2WDW ECU Flash *OES Sliders *GearBrake Flashing Smart Brake Light *Creese Tail Tidy with LED *TST Industries Flushmount front LED *Motionpro R6 throttle tube *Yamaha Fly Screen *X-Grip with Bruudt mount Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member motomeek Posted June 24, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted June 24, 2016 Thanks for the post. I'm more of a visual learner, so if anyone is planning on doing this, post some pics! I don't have the issue (or so I don't think I do), so it's always nice to know what it looks like I'd need to do in case it ever occurs. Instagram: @meekmade | You don't need to flat foot a bike to ride it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
603nytroxtx Posted June 24, 2016 Author Share Posted June 24, 2016 Thanks for the post. I'm more of a visual learner, so if anyone is planning on doing this, post some pics! I don't have the issue (or so I don't think I do), so it's always nice to know what it looks like I'd need to do in case it ever occurs. Next time I'm doing some work on the bike I will take some pictures and tag you in the post ;-) Also instagram request incoming 2015 FZ-07 Graphite *Yoshimura R-77 Carbon Works Finish *2WDW ECU Flash *OES Sliders *GearBrake Flashing Smart Brake Light *Creese Tail Tidy with LED *TST Industries Flushmount front LED *Motionpro R6 throttle tube *Yamaha Fly Screen *X-Grip with Bruudt mount Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yamahaha Posted June 24, 2016 Share Posted June 24, 2016 Great post OP! I've experienced the sticky switch issue after wet weather riding. I've been using dry Teflon lube for a short term fix but your remedy sounds awesome. Thanks for posting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member motomeek Posted June 24, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted June 24, 2016 Thanks for the post. I'm more of a visual learner, so if anyone is planning on doing this, post some pics! I don't have the issue (or so I don't think I do), so it's always nice to know what it looks like I'd need to do in case it ever occurs. Next time I'm doing some work on the bike I will take some pictures and tag you in the post ;-) Also instagram request incoming I got a few follows yesterday, so hopefully I sent a follow back to you... it was an account set on private, sooo let me know! And if you didn't want a follow back that's cool too.... Instagram: @meekmade | You don't need to flat foot a bike to ride it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philthyphil Posted February 11, 2017 Share Posted February 11, 2017 Hey all! I just got back in from the garage after finally finding a great solution to the problem I've been having with my bike. You may or may not know about this issue but there is a good amount of people that have had an issue with the starter switch getting stuck in the "start" position after they start their bike. The problem with this is that if you're not looking for it you most likely wouldn't notice that the switch didn't go all the way back to the "run" position. [span] [/span]I first noticed this problem about a year after I owned the bike when the check engine light stayed on after I started the bike a few times here and there. I looked online and noticed there were quite a few forums including this one that had threads about people with the same issue. I couldn't believe it but the only "solution" that everyone was giving was to "take it to the dealer and get it warrantied" which I couldn't do or to just lube it up with WD-40. I was dumbfounded that nobody had even attempted to find out what the problem was inside of the switch like it was some type of Pandora's box. I lubed mine up with WD-40 and kept on with life and didn't notice any other issues as I always made sure that after I started the bike that the switch was in the correct "run" position. [span] [/span]Well my half a** fix came back to bite me in the ass this past winter when I went to start the bike up and left it running while I ran to the grocery store. I came back to a dead bike. No electrical. NOTHING. Couldn't get anything with the key turn. I gave up and did some research only to find that I had no idea what was wrong. Next morning I went out and luckily I could get the bike to turn on and the fuel pump to go but when I tried to start it all I heard was a single "pop" noise come from under the seat every time I hit the starter. I had an error come up on the dash as well that gave me the options of only about 3,497 problems it could possibly be and all being electrical based. Anyway long story short I the starter relay on the bike because of the switch getting stuck in the "start" position. $35 later I am back up and running. [span] [/span]Fast forward to this past Father's day. Riding back home in the dark and hit what I can only imagine was a 2 lb bumble bee dead center of my shield. Pulled over, turned the bike off, and proceeded to clean. I was in a rush to get home and when I started my bike back up I forgot to check the starter position. As I'm driving along I notice that every time I pull the clutch to change gears my headlight dims and as soon as I'm back in gear it's fine again. I also notice that at the same time the headlight is dimming the check engine light pops on and goes off when back in gear. Pulled up to a stoplight and put it into neutral only to have to have the check engine light stay on for good. A lightbulb immediately went off and I have the switch a ever so light tap and it went back into the "run" position and everything was back to normal. I was f*****g pissed when I got home and said I have to fix this problem once and for all. Sorry for such a long story (I'm venting my frustrations). Here is what you need to fix it!!! Two long phillips head bolts on the bottom of the switch assembly gets it to crack open. One more small phillips screw holds the half moon protector shield over the moving parts. Let me say this right now. This is a VERY EASY FIX. Anyone can do it. Once you have the shield off you can pull the skinny half moon piece attached to the wires out of the switch housing. This has a spring in it that is supposed to bring the switch back to the "run" position but as we now know that doesn't exactly work as it's supposed to. The very simple problem with this setup is that the spring is simply not strong enough for what it's being asked to do. It's actually a very well designed switch with the contacts and detents to hold the switch in "kill" or "run". -Clean all surfaces on the housing and moving parts of debris (this will help the action slide smoother once it's all back together) -Take the spring out -SWEAR PROFUSELY AT THE SPRING THAT TRIED TO KILL YOUR BIKE -Keep the stock spring just in case -Replace the spring with any thicker gauge spring of your choice!!! The measurements for the STOCK spring are as follows [span] [/span]3/16" Diameter [span] [/span].025" Thick metal [span] [/span]5/8" Long -I bought these from Amazon for $4.99 6 pack of 3/16"x.028"x1". These ones are very strong and do the job well. You might be able to get away with something in the .026" or .027" range but I wanted to be sure it never happens to me again. -Cut one of your new fancy RUGGED bike saving springs to 5/8". Depending on what guage spring you get will depend on how long you can make it. If the metal is too thick it may not be able to compress down to the minimum size required to place the spring into it's home. Also you can continue to cut the spring shorter to make the tension to start the bike less and less. Just be careful that you don't cut it shorter than the minimum required length for it to return to the "run" position detent. So I know there are no pictures to go along with this which most people find very helpful. Three reasons for that: 1. It's honestly a very simple procedure that you should be able to follow my write up sufficiently. 2. The parts are all very small and and you wouldn't be able to tell them apart without some significant effort. 3. I'm lazy / I want to start cleaning my guns!!! I would be happy to give more advice or help with pictures if anyone wants it. I don't know how much interest there will be around this but to me $5 and 20 minutes is a pretty cheap insurance so you don't do any number of bad things to your baby (bike). Thank you for this post. I just started having the same problem today. It just so happens that I just installed my newly flashed ECU and a new exhaust system today too. My first day out with the new ECU and exhaust and my check engine light came on when I started my bike. I was like, oh hell... something with the ECU or exhaust is messed up. I noticed that as soon as I put the bike in gear and started to let the clutch out that the check engine light would go off, and then come back on as soon as I pulled the clutch back in. I could hear a strange motor noise coming from the engine area. At first I thought it was the clutch. So I shut the bike off. Thats when I noticed that the start/kill switch was still in the start position, rather than the run position. The strange sound that I was hearing was the starter being turned by the engine. Probably not too good for it. The starter that is. And the reason that the check engine light was shutting off when letting the clutch out is because with the bike in gear, and the clutch out, the starter will not engage. So it was disengaging the starter every time I let the clutch out, and making the check engine light shut off. For now I just have to remember to make sure that the start switch is in the run position whenever I start the bike. I will probably end up doing what you did though eventually and replace the spring inside with a heavier spring. Thanks for the guide! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkH Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 @603nytroxtx I did the mod last night thanks to you and I also took some pics for you. One thing I want to say is the old spring is heavily coated in white grease- maybe it is lithium grease? I had some lithium grease on hand so I coated the new spring with it as well. Oh yeah and I used a plier with an inner wire cutter to cut the spring down to size. And one final thing for those who don't know, the control unit is "fixed" in place with a tab that goes into a hole in the handle bar. When putting it back on when you are done, be sure to position that tab back into hole- it will get "stuck" and no longer rotate on handle bar. I visit here at least once a week. Got any questions, ask and I will answer! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3up Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 great job guys, fixing mine in the AM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteinpa Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 CAREFUL JUST SNAPPED MY PIECE....GRRRR. the part the spring mounts to. 60F tomorrow. FRACK! UPDATE: Whole assembly from Partzilla $56 delivered. Plastic is VERY brittle where wires are soldered to the piece with the spring. Breaks right at the spring. I got it to work, just no spring. have to slide it back to run position. I at least get to ride tomorrow. Got new red 2015 FZ-07 on 7/22/16! Black 2006 Honda ST1300 53K miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted February 18, 2017 Share Posted February 18, 2017 Good photos and writeup, but talk about a completely unnecessary problem! The standard rocker switch with contact starter button has worked for what, 50 years? And almost never fails and is made of like 5 trivial parts... I have a McMaster order to place anyway... These look like suitable candidates, trim or chop in half. https://www.mcmaster.com/#9657K57https://www.mcmaster.com/#9657K326https://www.mcmaster.com/#9657K282 Though if you buy direct they're quoting free shipping on a $2.50 purchase?https://www.forneyind.com/products/shop-tools/workshop-tools/springs/wire-compression-springs/compression-spring-10-526--6-pack Or try your local HW store. example:http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=29333366 (probable match)http://www.bigronline.com/misc-hardware/forney-industries-forney-72604-wire-spring-compression-10-526-3-16-inch-by-1-inch-by-028-inch-6-pack-141745.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
versysrider Posted May 30, 2017 Share Posted May 30, 2017 Had this happen on the FZ-09 once in the driveway. Luckily I quickly noticed that the start switch hadn't fully returned. Lubed it up, and the switch on the FZ-07, no problems since. As "pattonme" said totally unnecessary problem. '16 Yamaha FZ-07, '15 Yamaha FZ-09 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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