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ircsmith

err on dash

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ircsmith
Hello all.  I picked up a wreaked FZ for track use so I dont know all the history.  the first problem I need to tap into the vast knowledge of the FZ07 forum is with an error code.  the ignition switch is gone so I wired up a toggle.  when the bike is powered on the dash goes through its check cycle and then err displays in the upper left corner.  the fuel pump does not cycle and the bike will not turn over. 
 
so what is err?  no reference in the manual.  also the US FZ has no ignition anti theft correct? 
 
all ideas are welcome. 
 
 

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pantheraleo
Does it give a code #?
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O judgment! Thou art fled to brutish beasts,
And men have lost their reason. Bear with me.
My heart is in the coffin there with Caesar,
And I must pause...till it come back to me.

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rick
ERR is actually a fault code. It means "Multi-function meter: signals cannot be transmitted between the ECU and the multi-function meter" . this comes from p 8-71 of the service manual
 
The 1st three things in the trouble shooting are connections to the instrument panel and between the panel and the ECU.
 
The last 2 get pricey as [HASH]4 says to replace the instrument panel and [HASH]5 says to replace the ECU.
 
The ignition switch is gone - was it broken? Did the gauges take a hit in the crash?
 
Check where the harness plugs into the panel and then take a good look at all the plugs/wires between it and the ECU.
 
And are you sure you've made the proper jumpered connections bypassing the switch? There's one position that's the parking/emergency position. That wire might not suppose to be powered to ground in the run circuit and the ecu sees it as a problem - as in a short.
 

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ircsmith
thanks Rick.  the ignition was just removed (and now I cant find it!) the cluster did not take a hit that I can see.  to power the bike I found the two circuits (main and lights) I tried it without power to the light and with but no change.  I will check all the connections but my suspicion is the ECU.  had it flashed and that is the only thing changed, other than the removal of the ignition, since the problem started.  need to find a local ecu to try I guess.  thanks again

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rick
then look there closely and make sure those plugs are seated properly. But, it's probably not a coincidence.

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ircsmith
ok so the latest is.  I sent the ECU back and I was told it was put into a working bike with no problem.  all the wires in the harness from the ECU to the dash have continuity.  I pickup a dash from ebay but I am still just getting the err code.  at a loss here.  the only thing I did not witness was the ECU working in another bike.  dont know where else to go.  I think I need to swap the ECU just for my own peace of mind.  most likely not the problem but it would at least get that little voice in the back of my head gone. 
 
I believe I put the key in the metal recycling bin.  stupid.  that is the only other part I would like to try. 
 

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rick
Assuming the ECU is OK - and they are pretty stable these days - and you've tested another dash and it's also OK, then it would seem the next logical place to look would be in that ugly kink in the bundle of wires going to the dash. It's one of the few visibly tacky spots on the FZ7, imo. If you don't want to open that jacket to have a look at the wires inside, you should check continuity for all of the wires in that bundle from connector to wherever they go. it'll be a pita for sure to figure out where each wire terminates, but it might be necessary to diagnose what's going on.
 
 

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rick
you might even just try moving those harnesses about with the key on (oops, wires connected) . Maybe you can temporarily clear that code - if that happens, you'll have a ballpark where the problem is.

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norcal616
If you are over in Europe Im gonna take a guess and say you need the key has it has a " chip" in it...without the key it might not start...

2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition...2015 fj-09- 120whp- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich Race Kit- tuned by 2WDW
 

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rick
If you are over in Europe Im gonna take a guess and say you need the key has it has a " chip" in it...without the key it might not start...
He asked in the 1st post if the US spec FZ has an immobilizer 
But yeah, if it's got a chip and the switch has a reader, git out the checkbook. 
 
Still have to wonder if there's not something in the switch that's needed. I keep reading about guys soldering in a 100 ohm resistor somewhere to bypass the switch. One guy even wired up the kill switch to turn on the ignition  - wanted it that way for the track. 
 
Can the ignition switch be separated from the lock? My Aprilia's can - 2 screws from underneath and the switch will just come off the bottom of the key lock . If that's the case, might not hurt to rejoin the cut wires and manually turn the switch. 

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rick
My last idea I can think of is a busted tip over sensor?
That should kick up a Code 30 and then in the diagnostic mode a Code #8. Don't know if that would preventive starter from spinning or just turn off FI and ignition.  
Those tip-over sensors are an issue on my Aprilia. When they die, the starter will still spin, but obviously the motor will not fire. Guys just bypass them as they are no longer available anywhere. It's a simple switch in that bike - it's not so simple on the FZ.

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ircsmith
thanks for the ideas gentlemen. I have printed out the wiring diagram and will retrace the harness. worth another look.

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Guest Ralph
If it is a Euro bike it will have a immobiliser the key as a chip powered and read by the switch.
if so it is not going to start with just a switch bypass.
If there is or was a red flashing led on the dash it as the immobiliser but the flashing stops
after 24 hours.
 
 
Did try fooling mine by wrapping the key in foil to block the signal but it still reads it
do the same to the car key and it wont start.
 
Forget all this just read the org post again and you have a US spec bike no immobiliser.
 
 

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rick
Sometimes a full shopping cart return area at the grocery store will prevent me from using my key's remote to unlock the doors. Might have something to do with the phase of the moon as well, lol.
 
 

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Guest Ralph
You would be surprised what will stop them working it does not help that some fool decided
that a good frequency to use on remote controls here in the UK in right in the most used
shared military and ham radio band the Yam one hasn't given the slightest problem but a
Honda I had was a pain till I found the problem, and a car I had would not start not start
if under the flight path for low flying aircraft with radar, you haven't missed much by
not having these systems. With the shopping cart area look at the cart wheels if one is
different what that does is lock up that wheel if you take it to far off site and the transmitter
at the site is what is likely so powerful in comparison to your key fob and swamping the signal.
 

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ircsmith
I just picked up a harness of ebay for $80. at that price its not worth my time to play with mine yet. if it solves the issue great! I can then strip the original down and find the problem, plus eliminate all the unneeded connectors for the race bike. Then pass on a cheap harness to next person in need.
 
 

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rick
Good luck. I'm. thinking that's gonna do it.

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ircsmith
back from vacation and time to get this bike working!  put in an other wiring harness but  still got the err dash code on both dashes I have.  starting to wonder if the err code is only thrown if the dash and ECU can't communicate.  I have another ECU on the way just to complete the loop.  dont think it will solve the problem but have to be sure. 
 

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ircsmith
got my ECU plugged in this morning. still get the err code on the dash. I have no idea where to go now.

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hordboy
I haven't had hands-on with this issue but from my interpretation of the wiring diagram, you will need a double-pole switch. There are two blue wires that need switched so that the ECU will fire up the fuel pump relay.

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rick
Wonder if there's some component inside the ignition switch that's needed to make the ECU happy. Maybe not so sophisticated as an RF device for security as you don't have an immobilizer, but maybe there's a diode hidden inside that's now not in the circuit with the wires just joined.
 
Maybe you can find a cheap OE switch at a wrecker.

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ircsmith
thanks hordboy. I see two blue wires from the meter to the ecu via the ABS module but those are the only ones I see. I have the diagram for the MT so we may not be looking at the same thing. I need to find the diagram for the FZ. I imagine they are close but I would like to be sure.
 
rick I dont think there could be. only have the three power wires going to the ignition. could be wrong on that. I'm no electrical expert. I know just enough to be dangerous.

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rick
rick I dont think there could be. only have the three power wires going to the ignition. could be wrong on that. I'm no electrical expert. I know just enough to be dangerous.
I feel that way too sometimes. but the one thing you are missing is the real ignition switch, correct? 
I also only have the diagram for the MT and it's not the easiest of reads. My Aprilia has relays on top of relays and still the diagram is easier to follow. 
 
Dunno why you would have ABS? 
 
Almost afraid to ask, but have you checked all of the fuses, and maybe with an ohmmeter instead of just visually? 

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ircsmith
I was thinking the same thing Rick. the only thing that is missing/changed at this point is the missing ignition switch. looking at the wires hordboy mentioned I started to wonder if the ecu is looking for a voltage drop across the ignition to indicated that the bike is not being stolen. I dont have one to measure. so I took the easy way out. Woodcraft has an ignition bypass harness for the FZ and I will have one by friday. will post if it does the trick or not.

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