liami Posted June 5, 2016 Share Posted June 5, 2016 Is it just me or the screws on this bike pretty damn hard to put in? I keep stripping them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azuryn Posted June 5, 2016 Share Posted June 5, 2016 Which screws? I just use a torque wrench and everything is peachy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ornery Posted June 5, 2016 Share Posted June 5, 2016 Are you stripping the sockets in the Button-Head Socket Cap Screws? Some have "Locktite" on the threads, so are tight on removal, but should spin back in easy enough. If you're trying to use SAE hex keys instead of metric, or worn out metric hex keys, that would explain it. “The real cycle you're working on is a cycle called yourself.” — Robert M. Pirsig (Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance: An Inquiry Into Values) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liami Posted June 6, 2016 Author Share Posted June 6, 2016 No, the actual threads. I had a hell of a time getting the front fairing bolts (bolts you just pointed out) to line up, as well as the screw for the middle tank protector thing, and I also badly stripped the threads along with bending the mount for the aluminum frame cover on the left side of the bike. I also had some trouble with the screws under the seat that hold the fairings on. Never stripped the socket areas, it's mostly the threads on the part itself, not even on the screws... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simbadc650 Posted June 6, 2016 Share Posted June 6, 2016 some can be super beochy to get loose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ornery Posted June 6, 2016 Share Posted June 6, 2016 You'll need to buy some replacement Nut Springs 90183-050A6-00, and work on your mechanical finesse. “The real cycle you're working on is a cycle called yourself.” — Robert M. Pirsig (Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance: An Inquiry Into Values) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duenan Posted June 6, 2016 Share Posted June 6, 2016 Hmm, I don't know what to tell you. I've been removing parts off and on for just about 2 years and still haven't stripped the threads. Well, the only one I consider a pain is the rightside (throttle) seat bolt. But I blame the angle on that one. Engaging with people that have personality disorders on a message board is like arguing with a rock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattcase09 Posted June 6, 2016 Share Posted June 6, 2016 I had similar issues. The ones that go into those little clips on the tank plastics and the seat bolts were the worst for me. I started using ball head hex drivers. That really helps when there is flex causing you to cross-thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liami Posted June 6, 2016 Author Share Posted June 6, 2016 I've been working on multiple bikes for three years now and this is the only one whose bolts gave me any issues...maybe my specific bike has alignment issues in the frame? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ralph Posted June 6, 2016 Share Posted June 6, 2016 I've been working on multiple bikes for three years now and this is the only one whose bolts gave me any issues...maybe my specific bike has alignment issues in the frame?Don't know about the frame but something seems off I have had mine off a few times with no problems except the 2 that hold the front seat and they are fine once you get used to holding the cushioning away till you get them in and lined up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemer Posted June 6, 2016 Share Posted June 6, 2016 Why am I getting visions of the the ape in the gorilla glue commercial. I've noticed how some of the screws are a little hard to line up but I always start my screws with finger power so that I don't cross thread. Finesse at first. No problems with mine. Beemer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmwpowere36m3 Posted June 6, 2016 Share Posted June 6, 2016 Sounds like your ham-fisted... but I'll concede the two bolts under the seat are problematic (due to their angle). Those two bolts were stripped on my brand-new FZ-07 (assuming the dealer during PPI). There's been quite a few member you've also stripped them. Anyway, didn't want the hassle of the dealer doing it under warranty. I bought a new bracket and two bolts for ~$25 and did it myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Jeckler Posted June 6, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted June 6, 2016 My metric tap set has come in handy a couple times for those damn seats bolts. And like @duenan, it's the right side bolt that's worse. - Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liami Posted June 6, 2016 Author Share Posted June 6, 2016 I'm reverse, I never have any problems with the seat bolts... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
azuryn Posted June 6, 2016 Share Posted June 6, 2016 Maybe the culprit was an assembler in the factory that was just too beefy for his own good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liami Posted June 6, 2016 Author Share Posted June 6, 2016 One of the black bolts that hold the black air vent onto the bike gave me a hell of a time releasing it, so maybe it was one of the factory assemblers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member jake Posted June 7, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted June 7, 2016 Aluminum and steel are a bad combo it causes corrosion, clean your bolts/screws, bolt holes and put anti seize on them 2015 FZ-07 2003 2014 GSXR 1000 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liami Posted June 7, 2016 Author Share Posted June 7, 2016 Which area are you talking about? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member avanti Posted June 7, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted June 7, 2016 Huh?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liami Posted June 10, 2016 Author Share Posted June 10, 2016 For the aluminum and steel combo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member avanti Posted June 12, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted June 12, 2016 As I've said on other threads here, if you can put the short allen wrench "leg" in the fastener and tap the other END of the wrench with a hammer the "shock" can often break the thing loose when simply pushing or pulling on the wrench will ruin or break the fastener. Some ol' factory automotive shop manuals instruct to disassemble engines (for example) to always use an impact wrench to avoid damage. If you need you can put a small diameter pipe (steel) over the long end of the allen wrench and strike it. I've found it almost never takes more than one or two sharp "raps" with the hammer. To the point of the 07, I had to use this technique to easily remove the botton-heads that retain the exhaust heat shielding to paint it. Otherwise, mine didn't want to move! Sometimes an old "trick" can... do the trick. All the best!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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