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Advice for newbie?


Sangwich

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I recently got a new Raven FZ-07 and rode it for the first time Wednesday. I've taken the MSF course and realized this bike is nowhere as forgiving as a 250... (not to be expected). However, I rode it around an empty parking lot and pretty much I'm always rocking back n forth on the bike... The I've yet to get a smooth launch from the clutch (always get thrown back) and shifting is uncomfortable... Anyone have tips because compared to a 250 this bike feels like its either on/off to me.....

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If you're talking about jerkiness from a stopped position then here's a quick tip for now:
To get a smooth launch off the clutch, try learning to move from a stopped position without using the throttle. Put the bike in first gear and just gradually let go of the clutch. It'll even help you avoid some stalling in the future.
Then you can add throttle later and you'll be smoother.

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I've learned that method in MSF course and it works on this bike. However, The jerking coming from up-shifting. I roll off throttle,Clutch+gear up, then release clutch... bike lunges forward then engine breaks causing rocking...

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Rev matching...

2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition...2015 fj-09- 120whp- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich Race Kit- tuned by 2WDW
 

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Sounds like you may be shifting too early, or not getting back on the throttle quick enough. By that I don't mean gun it, but you'll need to practice to get the motions down and do everything in one smooth, quick, fluid action. At low rpms it won't happen as smoothly as higher rpms and gears until you learn the bike.
 
It helps to position your toe beneath the shifter and apply a little pressure in anticipation.
 
Also helps to adjust the clutch lever and get a feel for when engagement/disengagement occurs. You won't need to pull the clutch all the way in, it's excess lever movement.
 
The above post is super useful to a new rider [sarcasm] ... although it is correct, just stick to the parking lot until you get better acquainted with it.

Everything went braap.

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If you are feeling engine braking while you are shifting up then you are not giving it enough throttle. You do not have to accelerate fast, but as you release the clutch you want to move the throttle back to about the same position it was before you rolled off for the shift. I find the quicker I do everything during the shift the smoother. Practice will make perfect and before long you will forget it was ever a problem.

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...I'm ashamed to come here and say this... I Dropped the bike In an empty parking lot. I'm ok just alittle sore, bike needed $123 worth of parts (just minor cosmetic damage on left side). Was shifting from 1st to 2nd and front wheel lifted and pulled clutch + locked front brake :(. Got dragged about 5-10 feet. First time I Went down...
 
 
Edit: No pics, I had friend take bike to shop right away. Will have it back middle of next week.

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Don't be. All of us were beginners at one time. Glad to hear your'e ok and minor damage only to your bike. Shouldn't be much different in shifting for any size bike. Get on a smaller bike, like a TTR 125 dirt bike where you have full command of the bike because of its light weight and height where you will be able to put your feet down at any time, and just practice rowing thru the gears.

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This is easy ... roll off the throttle and clutch in at the same time and then gear up. Next, release the clutch lever smoothly but quickly without giving it any gas (don't pop it the clutch lever) . Right when the lever is completely out slowly roll on the throttle. Don't crack it and let off suddenly or it will buck. With practice you will get better at it. Good luck!

Beemer

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yamahappy74

Yeah, this is all about practice. Still, I'll admit that the engine braking on the FZ can be tricky, even for an experienced rider. You're simply not used to it. Practice, practice, practice, until you've got the transition down to a smooth motion. Off throttle, clutch, shift up, clutch release and throttle on at the same pace. Too much throttle and it will bring the front up. Not enough and the engine braking will toss you forward. I would even recommend starting in 2nd just to get used to that because first is so much more abrupt. Once you get it down, the do it from 1st until you're used to it.

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I learned and grew up on dirt bikes and transitioned to street without a problem. Also learned how to drive cagers with manual transmission at a very young age. Have you driven a manual transmission cager? Sounds like a stupid question, but it is very relevant. You basically release the clutch and apply gas the same way. Otherwise, you'll be stalling the car, rock back and forth like you describe, or launch off if you apply too much gas like what happened to you.

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Eastern Kayaker

Most of us have dropped a bike we have owned. One thing you should check is make sure the shift pedal is adjusted properly for you and the boots you are wearing. Your shifting abilities can be impacted if the shift pedal is too low or high for you. 
 
To adjust the shift pedal to fit you properly, there is a rod attached to the shift pedal. The rod has a locking nut at each end. One locknut is RH thread and the other is LH thread, loosen each of these locknuts. You can now rotate the rod counter-clockwise or clockwise to raise or lower the shift pedal to fit you best. After finding the best height for the shift pedal, tighten both locknuts on the rod and your set to ride.
 
 

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@sangwich long as you are OK that is what counts. Everyone has dropped their bike at one point or another. Don't let it get you down for long. Learn and grow from it.
 
Read Proficient Motorcycling: The Ultimate Guide to Riding Well https://www.amazon.com/dp/1620081199/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Ez.gxbBDDDKB0
 
And watch "Twist of the Wrist" volume 2 on YouTube. I think that there's even an abridged version that cuts out much of the fluff.
 
Those things and reminding myself to relax and be smooth has helped the most in riding well. That and time. Ride safe!

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I disagree that shifting a bike is just like doing it with a car. I had a fair bit of trouble in my MSF course trying to do it that way because I'd spent decades trying to preserve my clutch by minimizing slippage. Then my instructors pointed out we're using a wet clutch so there's nothing wrong with using it to modulate the power delivery - in fact they recommend it. No need to slap it in and out of engagement. They even taught us to ride it for much of the duration of some of the low-speed tests.

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I disagree that shifting a bike is just like doing it with a car. I had a fair bit of trouble in my MSF course trying to do it that way because I'd spent decades trying to preserve my clutch by minimizing slippage. Then my instructors pointed out we're using a wet clutch so there's nothing wrong with using it to modulate the power delivery - in fact they recommend it. No need to slap it in and out of engagement. They even taught us to ride it for much of the duration of some of the low-speed tests.
 
My point is that some folks have never driven a manual transmission ever; only automatics. That's why I asked that question. If one is to learn manual shifting on a bike and balance, and learn where all the controls are, that learning curve becomes very steep. I believe the key is to know the relationship of the clutch and gas. My dad taught me on an incline and made sure that I can keep the car from rolling backwards with the clutch and gas only, move forward very slowly a few feet and hold it, then let the vehicle roll down a few feet and hold it again. Ingrained in me in under 1 hour.
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Thanks for the advice guys, I was faced with survival instinct and grabbed too much brake so now I'll know not to do that. As soon as I dropped my bike I wanted nothing to do with riding ever again now every hour that goes by I want to get back on more and more :).

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yamahappy74
I disagree that shifting a bike is just like doing it with a car. I had a fair bit of trouble in my MSF course trying to do it that way because I'd spent decades trying to preserve my clutch by minimizing slippage. Then my instructors pointed out we're using a wet clutch so there's nothing wrong with using it to modulate the power delivery - in fact they recommend it. No need to slap it in and out of engagement. They even taught us to ride it for much of the duration of some of the low-speed tests.
I ride the clutch all the time, even on my GSXR. It's a good way to regulate power delivery in a less twitchy way. 
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  • 3 weeks later...

Well, i got all the parts that NEEDED to be replaced... (left footpeg, left shifter, left tank side scoop) didnt get a new left mirror though. Trying to see if there is anyway to mask the scuff mark. Ideas anyone?
 
 
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  • 1 month later...

Sorry, it's been awhile and I was wondering if you found a way to mask those scuff marks. If not, give me a holler.
 
How's the shifting/braking going now? Better I take it. Ride safe!

Beemer

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I've pretty much replaced everything scratched (new levers, bar end mirrors). Actually have been doing a lot of riding, have a bit over 3500 miles in 4 months now O_O. Looking back at this post I WAS a complete newbie now I can shift fine, learned to rev match, gotten the bike low enough on corners to scrap both footpegs.... And maybe an occasional power wheelie :)

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