fechner Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 I have been having shifting issues the gear indicator goes blank when down shifting when I come up to a stop and am down shifting to first the indicator goes blank and it will not let me down shift Check your clutch switch, it's a small 2 plug connector right below your handle bars, I bet it came loose, secure it back in place and your problems will disappear! I bet you can't start the bike in first gear either? More info here: http://fz07.org/thread/355/gear-disappearing-display Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fechner Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 I have been having shifting issues the gear indicator goes blank when down shifting when I come up to a stop and am down shifting to first the indicator goes blank and it will not let me down shift This happened to me twice recently. I think it was my bad coz I didn't step on the shifter hard enough.Killa, check your clutch switch as well - right below the handle bars it's a small connector that backed out. Once I plugged it back in that problem went away. Read more here: http://fz07.org/thread/355/gear-disappearing-display Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member crazycracka501 Posted August 30, 2014 Premium Member Share Posted August 30, 2014 Killa, check your clutch switch as well - right below the handle bars it's a small connector that backed out. Once I plugged it back in that problem went away. Can you provide a pic by chance, I can't seem to find it. Make it stop!....Now make it go faster! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member crazycracka501 Posted August 30, 2014 Premium Member Share Posted August 30, 2014 The only other problem I have with my bike is I can't keep my eyes off of it lol. Make it stop!....Now make it go faster! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YZEtc Posted August 30, 2014 Share Posted August 30, 2014 Actually, break out your Owner's Manual and tape measure and take a slack measurement using the method shown on pages 7-23 and 7-24 before you adjust the chain.You may be surprised to see that it may still be within the specs given in the Owner's Manual, even though it may look too loose.Don't adjust it tighter than recommended.Measure the slack, first. Completely normal to require a chain adjustment within the 600 mile break-in period if it is actually needed. The chain, itself, breaks-in and the many joints of the chain require some tension put on them to accomplish this.On my bike with about 120 miles on it, the chain has a bit more slack than when it had 0 miles on it, but measuring it showed to be within specification. As stated, if you need to keep making frequent adjustments after that, then you have an issue. The No. 1 reason why that would be the case is too little chain slack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fechner Posted August 30, 2014 Share Posted August 30, 2014 Killa, check your clutch switch as well - right below the handle bars it's a small connector that backed out. Once I plugged it back in that problem went away. Can you provide a pic by chance, I can't seem to find it.Look in this thread, I posted a pic there: http://fz07.org/thread/416/starting-engine-1st-solved hope this helps! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member crazycracka501 Posted September 1, 2014 Premium Member Share Posted September 1, 2014 Look in this thread, I posted a pic there: http://fz07.org/thread/416/starting-engine-1st-solved hope this helps! It did really help and it did push in just a little. Thanks man! 1 Make it stop!....Now make it go faster! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajnin Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 Interesting about the chain slack. I had to adjust mine at 200 miles too. I hadn't really checked it closely on deliver, so I figured it was not properly adjusted to begin with. Once I adjusted it, it hasn't changed noticeably after that (900 miles total). My dealer had put a bit too much oil in the crankcase too. I had to remove about a half cup to get the level below the upper line of the sight glass. I'm sure someone has mentioned it, but there is a stall issue with the bike. Mine has stalled or nearly stalled several times. It happens when the bike is hot...not over-heated, just hot, such as riding hard, coming off the freeway, then stopping at a traffic light. What happens is the engine either dies or starts to die as you are waiting at the light with the clutch pulled in 1st. Since the bike is so quiet, it is a little hard to hear this, but if you do and give it some throttle, throttle response is not good, and it will often just die. Other times, you get lucky and can keep it from dying. Having a "no problems" thread is a great idea, cause I have no idea if the stall is common or rare, but I am leaning toward rare at this point. I live in Texas and this is summer, so I am talking about riding in 90+ F muggy weather, if that makes any difference. This stall issue is separate from a rider error stall which is easy with this bike as well, where you might begin to start out before you give the bike some throttle which also causes the bike to stall, at least it does mine. The stall I am talking about would be a fueling or mapping issue with the ECU I think, which is common with new models. The Ninja 300 for example had stalling issues in the 2013 models. Most people never had the stall with that bike. I owned 2 2013 Ninja 300s and both had the stall. Just lucky, I guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aeisan Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 Hotter/more humid air has less O2 in it than cooler/less humid air, that's a fact. I'm sure this has something to do with the stalling issues some people are reporting, as almost all of them are reporting the issues in very hot conditions. Life is good on 2 wheels! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajnin Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 Thanks aeisan. My experience supports this idea. I had the stall the first 2 days of ownership in hot weather, only after the bike was hot. Then I didn't experience it again for nearly 2 months until a couple of days ago. The difference was I hadn't been riding the bike for long periods, and the engine was not getting really hot until I rode it harder 2 days ago. The combination of a hot engine and a hot, muggy day does seem to be a factor. I should know soon. Summer weather is almost over. With the Ninja 300, the stall occurred mostly with a colder engine and mostly when you were going down a hill with the rpms up. Then a clutch pull would drop the rpms quickly which resulted in the bike dying. I am convinced many people did not experience that stall because they either rode around at lower rpms or had no hills to do down near their homes. The point is, if the FZ-07 stall affects mostly bikes in hot muggy weather and you live in a northern climate, you might never experience it. Just a guess though. The stall has been reported in the MT-07 models in England which can certainly be muggy, but I don't know about high ambient temps in that situation. Just a smattering of riders reporting it so far. Heck, I can even live with it. I'm an experienced rider, so I can sense when the bike is starting to misbehave, and deal with it. A new rider experiencing the stall might be a problem though if a traffic light turns green and he isn't able to go. I think someone getting rear-ended is what prompted Kawasaki eventually to recall all the 2013 Ninja 300s and replace the ECUs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cruizin Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 Get an EJK fuel/air controller and then disconnect the O2 sensor and I bet that the stalling issues go away. 1 Yamaha MT-10 ForumYamaha Tracer 900 Forum Yamaha Ténéré 700 Forum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member hippiebikerchick Posted September 2, 2014 Premium Member Share Posted September 2, 2014 This may or may not be a problem; it's something I have noticed. Between 4000 and 5000 rpms I can hear a rapid clicking sound. This is usually in third or fourth gear, but I have heard it in second too. As soon as I shift and the rpms change it stops. Does anyone experience this or know what it could be? Illegitimi non carborundum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ralph Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 Check the chain, all chains stretch early in life so check that first. As for the stalling many riders here in the UK seem to have the same problem, but our weather even in summer cant really be called hot, maybe they don't stall when cold because the ecu richens the mixture and speeds up the tickover till they are warmed up. The tickover is on the slow side and I think they may stop doing it once fully run in, my last Suzy did it 3 or 4 times up to about 2000 miles then never again sold with 19000 on the clock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Global Moderator Guru Posted September 3, 2014 Global Moderator Share Posted September 3, 2014 @ajnin; just so you know, there's a lengthy thread about stalling issues here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benjaaa Posted March 26, 2022 Share Posted March 26, 2022 No one seems to have this issue and I need help I have a buzzing noise when I open the throttle when I pull the clutch in it goes away but when I give it gas it buzzes. This also happens when down shifting . This caused my exhaust to no longer pop or gurgle when shifting and downshifting. Does not feel right please help I have 9.2k miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shinyribs Posted March 26, 2022 Share Posted March 26, 2022 Didn't you start a thread on your buzzing problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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