Premium Member fzonly1 Posted August 23, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted August 23, 2016 Man, I wish I had read this before attempting to replace my chain and sprockets. Now I have to grind like you did. Crapola. Same here. Did you end up grinding? If I can get someone to help hold back up I was thinking a couple zaps with a grown up impact might do the trick without all the cutting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howlinhoss Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 What nuts can we replace oem with to avoid this issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Global Moderator jeffkisthename Posted August 23, 2016 Global Moderator Share Posted August 23, 2016 Man, I wish I had read this before attempting to replace my chain and sprockets. Now I have to grind like you did. Crapola. Same here. Did you end up grinding? If I can get someone to help hold back up I was thinking a couple zaps with a grown up impact might do the trick without all the cutting. I ended up grinding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member fzonly1 Posted August 23, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted August 23, 2016 What nuts can we replace oem with to avoid this issue. I'd also like to find another option for this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member pgeldz Posted August 23, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted August 23, 2016 Wow, I had no idea about this thread. Same thing happened to me a while ago here. The metal tabs on the Axle nut are definitely the problem..they put too much pressure on the threads. We are not the only ones with this issue. Andy of AP MotoArts said the same thing about the OEM axle nuts... My issue came at the worst time (more on that in my own thread), but the end result was I grinded the two tabs on the right side of the axle and got it out that way. Instead of using a stock axle nut, I got the Gilles Tooling Titanium one from work. It has a pretty trick locking mechanism. There is a small set screw on the face of the nut. You thread the axle nut on like normal, and torque to spec. Then you tighten the set screw and this little plastic piece tightens against the threads and locks the nut in place. Boom! No more issue, ever. You can check it out here: Gilles Tooling Titanium Axle Nut Remember, we give discounts to forum members, so if you're interested, PM the BellissiMoto account - Paulie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robborboy Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 This sounds like a terrible design. I've had axel nuts on some bikes off several dozen times a year with no issue. Will definitely go ahead and try out that Grilles nut to try to prevent any down time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomascrown Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 Just an fyi for those who encounter this issue in the future, it is far easier to grind two reliefs on opposite ends of the nut and just crack it open like a pistachio, than to try and cut the hardened steel of the axle itself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member fzonly1 Posted August 24, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted August 24, 2016 Just an fyi for those who encounter this issue in the future, it is far easier to grind two reliefs on opposite ends of the nut and just crack it open like a pistachio, than to try and cut the hardened steel of the axle itself. I like the way ya think! I'm going to take your advice for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member fzonly1 Posted August 24, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted August 24, 2016 Ready now.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member pgeldz Posted August 24, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted August 24, 2016 Just an fyi for those who encounter this issue in the future, it is far easier to grind two reliefs on opposite ends of the nut and just crack it open like a pistachio, than to try and cut the hardened steel of the axle itself. I started off that way, but found it was taking too much time. It seemed like my cutting wheels went through the tabs on the axle a little faster... But that's just my experience. YMMV - Paulie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member fzonly1 Posted August 27, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted August 27, 2016 Spilt my first beer. Drank one and a half... 30 min, one and a half cutting disk later and that nasty lock nut is toast. Too bad my parts won't be here till the 8th. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member fzonly1 Posted August 27, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted August 27, 2016 Dremel 4000 came thru like a champ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member fzonly1 Posted August 27, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted August 27, 2016 Just an fyi for those who encounter this issue in the future, it is far easier to grind two reliefs on opposite ends of the nut and just crack it open like a pistachio, than to try and cut the hardened steel of the axle itself. I cut the nut down to the washer on top, and about half way back on the bottom. Stuck a flat head screwdriver on top and cracked it in half. I couldn't believe how easy it was with that Dremel. There was almost no heat at all. It got warm at most. The Pistachio method definitely works fast! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteinpa Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 This should NOT be happening. If the axle nut is to be used only once it would be printed all over in the manual. I think 76 Ft-lbs is way too high. I had this happen on my XR650L once and after buying a new nut and axle I started lubing the threads and using less torque. Been lubing those threads on all axles ever since. To put a precise torque number on it I'm not sure, but once the swingarm is squeezed tight on the spacers and wheel hub it should be fine. The adjusters hold the axle tight against the pull of the chain. Got new red 2015 FZ-07 on 7/22/16! Black 2006 Honda ST1300 53K miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dentalprodigy Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 This should NOT be happening. If the axle nut is to be used only once it would be printed all over in the manual. I think 76 Ft-lbs is way too high. I had this happen on my XR650L once and after buying a new nut and axle I started lubing the threads and using less torque. Been lubing those threads on all axles ever since. To put a precise torque number on it I'm not sure, but once the swingarm is squeezed tight on the spacers and wheel hub it should be fine. The adjusters hold the axle tight against the pull of the chain. What should I torque it to from now onwards?? 50 lbs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteinpa Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 This should NOT be happening. If the axle nut is to be used only once it would be printed all over in the manual. I think 76 Ft-lbs is way too high. I had this happen on my XR650L once and after buying a new nut and axle I started lubing the threads and using less torque. Been lubing those threads on all axles ever since. To put a precise torque number on it I'm not sure, but once the swingarm is squeezed tight on the spacers and wheel hub it should be fine. The adjusters hold the axle tight against the pull of the chain. 50 might be about right.....still doing research on google. One quote I found "no more than 1/4 turn from tight." Makes sense. What should I torque it to from now onwards?? 50 lbs? Got new red 2015 FZ-07 on 7/22/16! Black 2006 Honda ST1300 53K miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomascrown Posted August 28, 2016 Share Posted August 28, 2016 I started torquing it down to 65. Nominal difference, but hopefully it extends the life a little bit longer. I plan on swapping the nut to the Gilles soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomascrown Posted August 28, 2016 Share Posted August 28, 2016 Just an fyi for those who encounter this issue in the future, it is far easier to grind two reliefs on opposite ends of the nut and just crack it open like a pistachio, than to try and cut the hardened steel of the axle itself. I cut the nut down to the washer on top, and about half way back on the bottom. Stuck a flat head screwdriver on top and cracked it in half. I couldn't believe how easy it was with that Dremel. There was almost no heat at all. It got warm at most. The Pistachio method definitely works fast! Nice. You can use a Dremel 9901 tungsten carbide bit, and prevent collateral damage to the silver axle holder thing since you need less room to operate with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member fzonly1 Posted August 30, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted August 30, 2016 Ordered my axle and other parts I destroyed from yamaha parts house and was very pleased with their service. Tip: Let your parts sit in your cart for a few days and they will offer you 10% off to complete your order. Helped with shipping since I didn't get over the 150 dollar hump. Also I ordered one too many of the same part and they QUICKLY processed refund. Will do business with them again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member hobbs Posted August 30, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted August 30, 2016 I've come to determine that almost, if not all of the torque specs in the service manual are too high. I started to cut 20% off the values after stripping multiple sprocket studs. Most of the values listed just seemed too high, but I figured Yamaha knows best. Nope... no they don't. Everything went braap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ralph Posted August 30, 2016 Share Posted August 30, 2016 Just had mine off for a tyre change, wile I know it's not really a indication of tightening torque I put a torque wrench on it to undo and it went off the scale at 220 lbs and it did not move, after applying a long bar it came undone without problem but it must have been well over spec from the factory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member fzonly1 Posted August 30, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted August 30, 2016 Just had mine off for a tyre change, wile I know it's not really a indication of tightening torque I put a torque wrench on it to undo and it went off the scale at 220 lbs and it did not move, after applying a long bar it came undone without problem but it must have been well over spec from the factory. I'd replace the nut on the next change or adjustment. Just to save yourself the trouble of it hangin up on you. Using the breaker bar is what tore up the right side axle cover. I can't imagine that axle cover holding a whole lot more torque than that 220 before shredding. I ordered 2 more nuts just in case. At 2.50 I can definitely afford to throw them out each tire change and adjustment vs dealing with a stuck nut again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ChicagoAJ Posted August 31, 2016 Share Posted August 31, 2016 Just had mine off for a tyre change, wile I know it's not really a indication of tightening torque I put a torque wrench on it to undo and it went off the scale at 220 lbs and it did not move, after applying a long bar it came undone without problem but it must have been well over spec from the factory. I'd replace the nut on the next change or adjustment. Just to save yourself the trouble of it hangin up on you. Using the breaker bar is what tore up the right side axle cover. I can't imagine that axle cover holding a whole lot more torque than that 220 before shredding. I ordered 2 more nuts just in case. At 2.50 I can definitely afford to throw them out each tire change and adjustment vs dealing with a stuck nut again. If it doesn't come off easy, but does eventually come off, I would definitely agree with you on putting a new one on. I just took mine off for the first time to remove my rear wheel and it came off with barely any extra force once it broke loose. I've only loosened it a few times prior for chain adjustments. I'm going to re-use it though when I put my rear wheel back on, I already have a replacement on hand just in case. I cleaned the threads before loosening every time, I feel like this helps a lot as they're usually full of road debris. I also cleaned the inside of the nut when it was removed and a lot of junk came out. Same goes for the axle threads too, they were pretty nasty when I got everything apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member pgeldz Posted August 31, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted August 31, 2016 Or, you can just get the Gilles Tooling Titanium Axle Nut and be done with it - Paulie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ChicagoAJ Posted August 31, 2016 Share Posted August 31, 2016 Or, you can just get the Gilles Tooling Titanium Axle Nut and be done with it - Paulie I would, but I can't justify $65 on a nut. Especially since I'll likely only use 4-5 axle nuts (if that) total during the lifetime of this bike. That's only like $15 bucks, lol. If it was cheaper I'd totally be on board. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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