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qjohnson

What oil will you use?

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qjohnson

I saw the oil filter thread and didn't want to turn that into an oil type thread so I'm starting a new one.
 
What brand of oil and what weight will you be using? Synthetic, semi-synthetic, or Dino oil?
 
Also please give your thoughts as to what type of oil to stay away from and what oil has had the best results in your motorcycles.
 
I'll start off with saying I've used mobile 1 full synthetic 10w-40 in my Yamaha wr250x and it was a vast improvement over Dino oil of the same weight. I may carry over that knowledge to the fz-07 when the first oil change arrives. After the 40 or so mile regular oil change and break in period of course lol

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Cruizin

Brand of oil is not really important at all and Synthetic is fine to use during break in. And Non synthetic is fine to use for the life of the bike.
 
Frequency of oil and filter change trumps brand or type of oil any day. With that said, the Ester based oils seem to be very good. Redline, Motul and others are Ester based, and priced like it.
 
 
I use Castrol Power RS 10/40 in my bikes and it is a great Synthetic oil. Auto Zone has it on sale for $7.99 a quart in store until Aug 24th so I bought a case yesterday. Most other places charge $13.00 a quart.
 
Remember, not that long ago there wasn't any Motorcycle specific oil. We used to put regular Car Dino oil in our bikes. Back in the early 80's I was running Valvoline SAE 30 Car oil in a hot aircooled BMW with 130,000 miles on it and I beat the piss out of that bike. I sold it to a guy who rode it up to 200,000 miles and then rebuilt it.
 
I simply changed/still change the oil and filter every 2,500 miles. It only takes 20 minutes to change the oil and filter and I cannot imagine why anyone would pay a dealer to do it for them, it is so damn easy.
 
 
Find a low priced Motorcycle oil Synthetic or Part synthetic. Order some crush washers for the oil drain bolt and buy some KN-204 Filters online.
 
Many race teams use part synthetic oils.
 

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qjohnson

Sweet! I'll definitely be getting some crush washers and filters soon. I like to change my oil really early at 1000 miles. Mostly because I go balls to the wall every time I ride haha. But also just to feel good about having good oil in the case. I personally would never go above 2000 miles on an oil change but that's my own opinion. I like clean oil in my toys:) 

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rotaryfz07

Motul 300V for me !

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Guru

Im a Yamalube guy.

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Cruizin
Im a Yamalube guy.
 
You mean Citgo? Citgo makes Yamalube. It is mixed and poured into Yamaha containers at 39th and Cicero in Chicago. That oil comes from the same huge Vat that pours Citgo, Mystic and many other offbrand motor oils. As in, it's the same oil, just repackaged into different brand's orders every few hours. Yamalube is the same as about 20 other brands of oil.
 
Yamaha and other bike companies set a list of standards for their oil, and then it goes out to the lowest bidding oil company who then uses the oil that comes closest to their set of standards, which really aren't that high. Because, the standards really don't have to be set that high.
 
 
And while on the subject, ANTIFREEZE. While there are over 20 brands of antifreeze out there, there are only TWO COMPANIES IN NORTH AMERICA WHO MAKES ETHYLENE GLYCOL ANTI FREEZE. It is repackaged into different brands and resold as well.
 
 
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Guru

Oh no! Here we go again. I am on a snowmobile board and this has been a topic too (a very heated one!) 
I know Yamaha doesn't actually make oil. Nor do a lot of (or most) other small 'brands'.
But there is a lot of misinformation and confusement.
 
I quote:

Yamalube is manufactured by Nippon Oil Corporation - One of the largest (6th largest I believe) producers in the world. NOC is a Japanese company, but the Yamalube you buy in North America was likely produced in Childersburg, Alabama. Yamalube is not a 're-branded' CITGO, or any other 'bulk oil'. Rather, its refinement, and specific additive packages, are dictated by Yamaha oil engineers (along with the ones that design these engines), and must meet some pretty stringent performance requirements. Probably one of the more significant being that Yamaha oils are required to meet their performance specifications at regular oil change intervals for the unit they are specified for. This is a pretty important one in an engine buzzing 8-11k.
It is true that people that use Yamalube pay a premium and you can get the same quality for less money. That is not my point. I am not using Yamalube because I think it's better then 'regular' brands, but it's simply not true that the oil is inferior.  I personally use it because it is convenient. I have easy access.
 
Most important is that the oil I use for specific engines (that have no separate gearbox, wet clutch ect..) is designed for it's specific purpose. I am convinced that regular car engine oil is not what you should be using in a motorcycle engine. That's why car engine and two different types of oil, One for the engine and a different one for the (manual) transmission.  It's the chemical formula and additives that makes the difference. 
 
Furthermore, and this is important: I read somewhere that Yamaha chooses specific dinosaurs for its oil. It only uses T-Rex's. I don't believe that to be true.  ;)
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qjohnson

I've heard they only use T-Rex's also ;) lol.

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Kazicht

I am a huge fan of Redline oil. It's a bit pricey, but after using it on my old Guzzi V-twins, I can't go back to anything else.
 
I'll wait until after the engine loosens up after 1200+ miles to make the switch from Yamalube.

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FZ07 Mods: Akrapovic Ti - Shorai Lithium Battery - Pazzo Levers - OEM Flyscreen
 

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Greenhound386

Repsol in the ZX-6R.
Yamalube 10W50 semi-synthetic in the FZ-07.


2011 ZX-6R
2015 FZ-07

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jrubicon

did first oil change today, yamalube 10w40 is what I did. Unplugged drain and filter sunday afternoon at 560 miles, its now Wednesday and I just pluged it back in and filled it up. I did all 3 quarts. Letting it drain for days really drained it good.


www.youtube.com/infinion3

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Guru

How did the oil look? Dark? Silverish? Any shavings or particles?

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rotaryfz07

Couldn't afford the Motul so I am trying Shell T6

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Greenhound386
Couldn't afford the Motul so I am trying Shell T6
Gotta admit: I didn't see that coming considering your avatar.

2011 ZX-6R
2015 FZ-07

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nmucat

On the topic of oil...what are the service intervals since Yamaha cheaped out and didn't include a manual.

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Guru

Mine came with a manual. So should yours. If not, ask your dealer for one.
 
Here's an owners manual for an MT-07 (download zip file)  The maintenance schedule is on page 6-3 to 6-6
 
The schedule is basically first 600 miles, the regular 6000, 12000, etc..

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scordiaboy515

Yamalube 10-40 AP, I always use a oem filter (5GH-13440-50-00)
 

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rotaryfz07
Couldn't afford the Motul so I am trying Shell T6
Gotta admit: I didn't see that coming considering your avatar.
 
 
Haha honestly I took that pic at the dealer when I bought bike.
 
I am so proud to own a Yamaha after owning a Honda. The Yami feels much nicer. Built better.
 
But I don't think I'll be using yamalube haha

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delbee1

Old thread I know, I wondered if anyone has ever used or have any experience of Bardahl C60 Moto 10w40 oil??
 

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Guest 2wheeler

Well as long as this thread is getting kicked back up, I have a question. I'm going to be due for an oil change shortly. After listening to all the arguments, I've decided to go with semi-synthetic oil. I've narrowed it down to two oils, and I wanted to know if anybody has had any experience with either of them.
 
Silkolene 4T Comp 4
Castrol Actevo Xtra 4T
 
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/25280/i/silkolene-4t-comp-4-oil
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/14169/i/castrol-act-evo-x-tra-4t-engine-oil
 
I've always been a big Silkolene fan, but there is a lot to be said for the tried-and-true Castrol brand. I can buy both of these locally as well.
 
Any thoughts on these or any other semi-synthetics?
 
Thanks
 

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Beemer

Motul 4T 7100 10w40. I don't like having to change oil a lot and the way I see it, an oil filter can catch particles just as well at 6k miles as it can @ 1k so I'm one happy sob! :D  If I feel it's broken down too much and not lubricating well enough, etc. at any point I'll change it then.

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Beemer

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delbee1
Well as long as this thread is getting kicked back up, I have a question. I'm going to be due for an oil change shortly. After listening to all the arguments, I've decided to go with semi-synthetic oil. I've narrowed it down to two oils, and I wanted to know if anybody has had any experience with either of them. 
Silkolene 4T Comp 4
Castrol Actevo Xtra 4T
 
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/25280/i/silkolene-4t-comp-4-oil
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/14169/i/castrol-act-evo-x-tra-4t-engine-oil
 
I've always been a big Silkolene fan, but there is a lot to be said for the tried-and-true Castrol brand. I can buy both of these locally as well.
 
Any thoughts on these or any other semi-synthetics?
 
Thanks

I have ordered some silkolene Pro XP 4T for mine, Fuchs make some great oil and are tried and tested also. The thing that put me off Castrol as its not Ester based. I also always used Fuchs in one of my turbo cars and a few good engine builders will only use their stuff.
I have been looking into oil and a UK company Millers make a Nanodrive oil for cars which is meant to reduce friction, Putoline make a Nano oil for bikes which lead me on to the C60 which I have read is the very best Nano technology and apparently they have a Patent for the use of C60 in oil. C60 Fullerene is the ingredients full name, its meant to dramatically reduce friction therefore extend engine life and increase power and performance.
Heres a couple of links;
http://www.bardahl-ap.com/c60-fullerene.php
http://www.top-oils.co.uk//default.asp?content_id=10
Bardahl C60 10w40
 

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Guest Ralph

A friend ran a race team R6's and was using Yamlube but braking 1 or 2 cranks a year
change to silkolene no more broken cranks and about 1.5 /2 bhp more on the dyno.
 

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delbee1
A friend ran a race team R6's and was using Yamlube but braking 1 or 2 cranks a year change to silkolene no more broken cranks and about 1.5 /2 bhp more on the dyno.

It is definitely good stuff 

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