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CRG Bar End Mirrors Issue


thestache

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Installed CRG bar ends today, and while i love them, the throttle side mounts flush against the throttle tube and causes the throttle to stick. Searched Google, no luck,saw a person with similar issues on Revzilla, no solution except buy new bars, can't believe CRG would sell these with the idea that buying new bars is the solution.
 
I tried silicone lubricant, tried not tightening them all the way down...no luck
 
Any ideas?
 

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Which mirrors, and how exactly did you install it on there? Did you buy the internal adapters? Or you slap them on the oem bar ends? Or did you buy different bar ends? Unless I am mistaken, CRG mirrors only come with the mirrors and no installation adapters, so I'm curious in which way you installed it.

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Which mirrors, and how exactly did you install it on there? Did you buy the internal adapters? Or you slap them on the oem bar ends? Or did you buy different bar ends? Unless I am mistaken, CRG mirrors only come with the mirrors and no installation adapters, so I'm curious in which way you installed it.
@skh, I used these CRG Adapters  
They worked fine on the clutch side, used the 2 arrow shaped pieces, snug as a bug.
 
I have these mirrors
They are the 7/8" adapters
 
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Oh damn, I guess its the threading after all. I used it on my R3 and its fine, but the R3 is not threaded like the FZ07. The only suggestion I have is spending another 70 bucks for a rhinomoto bar end specifically designed for both the fz07 and crg mirror, but I don't know if you'd want to do that.
 
link
 

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Oh damn, I guess its the threading after all. I used it on my R3 and its fine, but the R3 is not threaded like the FZ07. The only suggestion I have is spending another 70 bucks for a rhinomoto bar end specifically designed for both the fz07 and crg mirror, but I don't know if you'd want to do that. 
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Well, if it works, I'll do that, see if anyone else has another solution 1st though 
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Oh yeah, there's also the copper pipe solution which should work for CRG mirrors. I did it long time ago, but it didn't work for Rizoma mirrors.
 
 

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If you are interested in trying that, you will need 2 things:
 
Copper sweat coupling 1/2" (that's the diameter). This piece is a little over 1 inch long.
Copper pipe cutter.
 
The total cost should be around 20-25 bucks.  Unless you already have a pipe cutter, then it should set you back like 99 cents-2 dollars.
 
Cut exactly in half. Both pieces should be over half inch long. Slip over threading. Copper is a very soft material, it will bend and warp as you cut it, so chances are it will be a bitch to easily slip over threading. You have to work it in, or reshape it into a circle as best as possible.
 
img_0110.jpg
 
As you can see the threading will be short after this.  Probably be in your best interest to red loctite the threading when you screw it in the handlebar.
 

I visit here at least once a week.  Got any questions, ask and I will answer!

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No prob, good news is I can make a DIY topic with those pics now. :)

I visit here at least once a week.  Got any questions, ask and I will answer!

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I did other thing, not with crg mirrors but with similar.
The mirrors normally comes with bar ends, but they fit with pressure, not like original bar ends of yamaha.
So i did a thread for screw m5 in the allen hole of original bar end to can fit the part of the bar end that comes with mirros. With these method you fit the original bar end with the bar end for fix the mirrors. Also you can do a plane surface to fit better, because the original bar end has a curve in this surface.
Sorry for my english, Im not sure that i xplain well but I tried it.

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booboobusfz07
Thanks SKH, think I am just gonna go with Rhino, I don;t have the tools or patience for the copper :):)
 
 
Use a steel spacer from ace I used 5/8x7/8x1. 2-4$. I used my dremel to cut it in half an smooth the edges. You could also use a standard hack saw and it would work just fine
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i bought the rhinomoto ends for use with my CRG mirrors
I just ordered them, 2 week back order, but it seems to be the best solution 
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When i installed my mirrors,I pulled the mirror adapter out slightly on the throttle side so that the adapter didn't rub on the grip. Not sure if that may have been the problem, but I had no issues.

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  • 4 weeks later...
When i installed my mirrors,I pulled the mirror adapter out slightly on the throttle side so that the adapter didn't rub on the grip. Not sure if that may have been the problem, but I had no issues.
 
 
I have the crg arrow bar end mirrors and did the exact same thing. 300 miles and they are still sturdy.
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Funny. I just did this about 20 minutes ago. Copper fitting adapter and blue loctite (I'd like to be able to remove them someday). A couple wraps of electrical tape as a spacer for the mirror and bolted it on. I'm eventually going to get a couple 5/8x7/8 spacers and another mirror, or drill and tap the stock ends for the CRG adapter.

- Andy

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You can also shift the throttle, brake and lever perch towards the center of the bike, that can give more room in between the mirror and throttle.
 
I have the rhinomoto bar ends with CRG mirrors, and I had to slide the throttle assembly a tad to the left since the barend was touching the grip. It doesn't now.

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You can also shift the throttle, brake and lever perch towards the center of the bike, that can give more room in between the mirror and throttle. 
I have the rhinomoto bar ends with CRG mirrors, and I had to slide the throttle assembly a tad to the left since the barend was touching the grip. It doesn't now.
That only works if you have removed the positioning tabs from the controls, right? 
 

Why can't left turners see us?

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You can also shift the throttle, brake and lever perch towards the center of the bike, that can give more room in between the mirror and throttle. 
I have the rhinomoto bar ends with CRG mirrors, and I had to slide the throttle assembly a tad to the left since the barend was touching the grip. It doesn't now.
That only works if you have removed the positioning tabs from the controls, right? 

Not sure to be honest. 
In my case, I only loosened the screws for the kill switch housing and was able to slide the throttle enough that it didn't touch the bar end, even with the side to side slack that the throttle already has. 
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