Turn Signal Issue

[Mr.Puss]

Is the relay the thing linked earlier that goes under the front left tank fairing? 
Yes, if I remember correctly its behind the large silver heat sink.

 

[AlbatrossCafe]

A. Where does this plug in? B. So I would just plug this in and then straight wire the lights to the bike, minus the resistors? 

A. I thought there was a thread of it on here but this works:

It is very simple - you have to take off the side panel and literally just unplug the stock one and plug in the new one.
 
B. Yes, it eliminates the need for resistors completely and will fix your flash rate with ANY combo of LED/non LED lights. This saves you space & complexity in your setup.
 
 
I ran with the fast blink for a few days or so cus I liked it at first, but then it started to get annoying and seemed too fast for anyone's good. 60 flashes/second is stock. 120 flashes/second is a bit much. 80-90 flashes/second would be cool. You can get other relays that are adjustable like that but it wasn't worth the effort for me.
 

[jackimpact]

A. Where does this plug in? B. So I would just plug this in and then straight wire the lights to the bike, minus the resistors? 

A. I thought there was a thread of it on here but this works:

It is very simple - you have to take off the side panel and literally just unplug the stock one and plug in the new one.
 
B. Yes, it eliminates the need for resistors completely and will fix your flash rate with ANY combo of LED/non LED lights. This saves you space & complexity in your setup.
 
 
I ran with the fast blink for a few days or so cus I liked it at first, but then it started to get annoying and seemed too fast for anyone's good. 60 flashes/second is stock. 120 flashes/second is a bit much. 80-90 flashes/second would be cool. You can get other relays that are adjustable like that but it wasn't worth the effort for me.

Thanks! 
What happens if I throw that relay on and the resistors are still on?

[mjh937]

It will work just fine. If you use resistors you do not need the electronic relay as the load from the resistors mimics the incandescent bulbs load so the flash rate will not increase.

[biggaudi]

+1 for fuses.  
I would recommend a new flasher relay (for those of us who are picky about wiring anyway). They will correct the flash rate when changing over from incandescent to led, it's plug and play, inexpensive and you will not need those relays which can get pretty hot from what Ive read.
I also stocked up on fuses as I blew a couple while tinkering which obviously is a very annoying "stop work" issue.
 
http://www.customled.com/products/elfr-1-electronic-led-flasher-relay
 

Thanks for posting this! Ordered one because once I got all of the lights hooked up they were flashing faster than a hummingbird's heart rate. There would be no doubt about which way I'm turning, but I can picture someone with epilepsy having a seizure straight into my bike.

[captainmay]

It comes with the 21W resistors, so if they dont work, then I will look into that. What is most confusing is that its like black, light brown, brown and then black, blue, green. Who the hell chose these?

The brown, blue, and green colors sound like European color codes. I'd blame the Europeans lol
 

[biggaudi]

BTW think I blew a fuse or two. Where can I pick up some more? Home Depot perhaps?

[azuryn]

Auto stores have them all but a bit marked up.

[AlbatrossCafe]

BTW think I blew a fuse or two. Where can I pick up some more? Home Depot perhaps?

Lots of places. Any autoparts store should have those mini fuses. They are cheap and universal. 

[biggaudi]

@albatrosscafe sweet, thank you! Off to autozone I go

[biggaudi]

So I thought my fuse was blown, but now that I replaced the fuse for the signals and verified that I have no other blown fuses, my turn signals will not work. I believed there was a short in my rear signals (the connection was poor because the connection points were barely touching I found out, my new signals are shorter wire than previous). So I disconnected the rear, but the front won't work at all. The bike turns on, the rear break works, but only from my front break lever....Seems I now have turn signal issue

[cndnmax]

So I thought my fuse was blown, but now that I replaced the fuse for the signals and verified that I have no other blown fuses, my turn signals will not work. I believed there was a short in my rear signals (the connection was poor because the connection points were barely touching I found out, my new signals are shorter wire than previous). So I disconnected the rear, but the front won't work at all. The bike turns on, the rear break works, but only from my front break lever....Seems I now have turn signal issue

 
No knowing anything about your install there's plenty of ways you can go wrong installing signals. Are u using led signals with the stock relay. Did u use resistors and how did you wire them. Led signals connected in reverse will not work.

[biggaudi]

@cndnmax LED signals with stock relay. No resistors. Wired them with Yamaha style prong adapters and tested them before, the kind you just insert male to female. They were working fine. I was tucking the wiring away more neatly and then went to test them again. Now none of them seem to be working at all as mentioned above.

[AlbatrossCafe]

So I thought my fuse was blown, but now that I replaced the fuse for the signals and verified that I have no other blown fuses, my turn signals will not work. I believed there was a short in my rear signals (the connection was poor because the connection points were barely touching I found out, my new signals are shorter wire than previous). So I disconnected the rear, but the front won't work at all. The bike turns on, the rear break works, but only from my front break lever....Seems I now have turn signal issue

I would bet at least $5 but no more than $10 that you blew your signal relay. I mixed up my power/ground wires at one point when installing mine (lol) and shorted it that way. It blew the aftermarket ELFR-1 relay that I had put in and I had to get another one. The signals were completely out (can't remember the rear brake light though). I verified all my wiring was correct and put the stock relay back in just to check, and the signals worked. 
If I were you I would not mess with resistors and I'd just order that relay above to fix signal speed issue. Much easier and it may fix your non-working signal problem.
 

[biggaudi]

@albatrosscafe will do. It sounds like swapping out the relay will be easy enough. Is it possible I accidentally reversed the connections on the turn signals, but they still worked? I guess I just want to understand how the thing may have blown so I can avoid it.

[mjh937]

I suspect you have a bad connection somewhere and as you moved the wires to tuck them away it shorted out, possibly taking the relay with it. I hate to say it but you may need to check all your wiring to make sure the solders joints are not shorting out.

[jerryv]

Wow, what a bummer.  When I did mine, I bought the OEM wiring harness and the Relay.  I did not blow any fuses, but did get a bit confused when soldering in the harnesses.  I took one of the LED's with the bare wires and inserted them into the bikes existing harness to figure out the correct pattern.  My LED's included a DRL.  I soldered up that one and it worked fine.  Somehow I messed up the pattern on the second one, had to remove it, retest the wires and solder it again.  It was fiddly, but end result was satisfying.  I have harnesses for the rear but did not do those yet.  Anyway, I feel your frustration.  Keep at it, get 'er done!

[biggaudi]

Thanks for the advice. I'll take my time and get it addressed appropriately when the parts come in. Just sucks not riding. I'm going through withdrawal

[rick]

That your rear brake pedal will not operate the light, but the hand lever does suggests you've got a bad connection.
 
Think I'd start at the pedal and work your way backward as I suspect both problems will be in the same spot.
 
Keep in mind, w/o changing anything, losing a bulb (either by removing or having it burn out), front or back will usually cause the one that's still working to light, but not blink. That's because there's not enough current drawn from one bulb to initiate the circuitry/switching to start blinking. LEDs draw very little current, that's why the resistor is patched in. A relay designed for LEDs will always be better. Maybe just as well if the OE one is now toasted.

[jhull27]

Hey guys - somewhat related issue. I have an LED headlight and just installed front LED turn signals (with proper relay). Now, the turn signals aren't illuminated as running lights. I think ("think") they were with the stock lights but don't remember for sure. Has anyone seen this issue when installing LEDs? I don't know that I need the turn signals for running lights, but on a motorcycle I believe the more attention, the better. Thanks

[cndnmax]

Hey guys - somewhat related issue. I have an LED headlight and just installed front LED turn signals (with proper relay). Now, the turn signals aren't illuminated as running lights. I think ("think") they were with the stock lights but don't remember for sure. Has anyone seen this issue when installing LEDs? I don't know that I need the turn signals for running lights, but on a motorcycle I believe the more attention, the better. Thanks

 
99% of led signals are two-wire signals which mean they do not have a running light option. Did you connect all 3 wires or only two?
See my thread below if you want to add the running light option.
 
https://fz07.org/thread/3446/diy-turning-wire-led-signal

[user1]

I sure wish there was a Thread on this Forum (that I COULD FiND) regarding standard INCANDESCENT turn signal problems....!  

 

thanks.

[DewMan]

5 hours ago, user1 said:

I sure wish there was a Thread on this Forum (that I COULD FiND) regarding standard INCANDESCENT turn signal problems....!  

 

thanks.

The only problem normally experienced specifically with standard incandescent turn signals is a burnt out bulb.

Did you have anything specific you wanted to discuss? 

[user1]

On 12/30/2019 at 10:52 PM, DewMan said:

The only problem normally experienced specifically with standard incandescent turn signals is a burnt out bulb.

Did you have anything specific you wanted to discuss? 

To:  DewMan

YES....  ( thanks for letting me cut in line ..!)

I wanted to remove the large USA FZ-07 stock turn signals but stick with incandescent bulbs. I found four turn signals that mimicked the smaller Euro Turn Signal fixtures and also used incandescent bulbs.

The stock original bulbs were 21w (!) each, and the aftermarket bulbs are  4w each.  Now the turn signals (left and right) flash like crazy.

I knew my re-wiring was OK, so I am assuming the turn signal relay, spoken of here, would need to be replaced with an electronic relay. I really do not want to remove all the left side gas tank covers to get at the TS relay but I don't see an alternative. 

Is there an alternative?  If not, what is the easiest way to get at the left side covers that have to come off to reveal the relay ....?   thank you.

        

Edited February 9, 2020 by user1
.

[DewMan]

33 minutes ago, user1 said:

To:  DewMan

YES....  ( thanks for letting me cut in line ..!)

I wanted to remove the large USA FZ-07 stock turn signals but stick with incandescent bulbs. I found four turn signals that mimicked the smaller Euro Turn Signal fixtures and also used incandescent bulbs.

The stock original bulbs were 21w (!) each, and the aftermarket bulbs are  4w each.  Now the turn signals (left and right) flash like crazy.

I knew my re-wiring was OK, so I am assuming the turn signal relay, spoken of here, would need to be replaced with an electronic relay. I really do not want to remove all the left side gas tank covers to get at the TS relay but I don't see an alternative. 

Is there an alternative?  If not, what is the easiest way to get at the left side covers that have to come off to reveal the relay ....?   thank you.

        

The hyper flash you describe and the fact the bulb only uses 4w sounds like the new bulbs are LED. I'm not aware of an incandescent turn signal bulb that would only use 4watts and put out any appreciable light. Regardless if they're either type of bulb it's the lack of load that's causing the hyperflash that can be solved by either adding inline resister to mimic the  higher wattage bulbs or replacing the flasher unit.  Replacing the flasher unit is the easier/quicker job. Check youtube for videos of how to remove replace the unit many of them show how to access it. ... It's a 5-10 minute job to access the flasher.

Good luck.