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jackimpact

Turn Signal Issue

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jackimpact
I am trying to replace my stock turn signals with some Oxford Nepture turn signals, link below. I have them hooked up from the signal, to the included resistor and from the resistor to one signal. Now none of the lights work and the brake lights dont work. Hazard lights dont work. 
 
Theres three connections coming from the front. I am only on the front left right now. Its one black, one light brown, one dark brown. I have tried every combination and the lights still do not work. The leads off the neptunes are only red and black. All of the other 3 stock lights are still attached. Unsure whats going wrong here. 
 
 
http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/oxford-eyeshot-led-turn-signal-indicators-neptune

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mjh937
I suspect you blew a fuse. There are two fuse boxes under the seat. After you get that done use a meter to see which wire is hot and which is ground. The third wire is for running lights so you will not use that. It will be hot with the ignition on. Good luck.
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jackimpact
I did blow one. Replaced it.
 
Do I just cap off the third running light cable? Also, would the other 3 stock lights act funny until all four are replaced?

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mjh937
Yes, just make sure the running light wire is covered so it will not short out on anything. You should be okay with just one done. Just make sure everything is connected before you put power to the lights or you will be replacing more fuses :)
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Mr.Puss
+1 for fuses.
 
I would recommend a new flasher relay (for those of us who are picky about wiring anyway). They will correct the flash rate when changing over from incandescent to led, it's plug and play, inexpensive and you will not need those relays which can get pretty hot from what Ive read.
I also stocked up on fuses as I blew a couple while tinkering which obviously is a very annoying "stop work" issue.
 
http://www.customled.com/products/elfr-1-electronic-led-flasher-relay
 
 
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Crush your enemies. See them driven before you. Hear the lamentations of their women.

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jackimpact
It comes with the 21W resistors, so if they dont work, then I will look into that. What is most confusing is that its like black, light brown, brown and then black, blue, green. Who the hell chose these?
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Beemer
It seems most everyone that changes their signals blows a fuse or two. When I found one 10 amp fuse blown I initially figured it was just the one that blew but my instincts told me to just check them all (it only takes a minute or two) and I found another blown. Good luck, show us pics!
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Beemer

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jackimpact
Once its complete I am going to make a guide.
 
Should the lights be working correctly with 1 LED and 3 stock hooked up?

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AlbatrossCafe
It comes with the 21W resistors, so if they dont work, then I will look into that.
It's always the fuses... 
I would go with the relay if I were you. Don't even bother with the resistors. The relay is only $20 and it is much easier throwing a resistor on every connection. Plus if you decide to change your lights out again for whatever reason you will already be set. I also found there to be not very much room where I was tucking in all the wires - trying to make it clean with those fat resistors installed would be a pain for me.
 
The relay also fixes the flash rate no matter what combination of lights you have: 1 LED & 3 stock, 2 LED & 2 stock, 3 LED & 1 stock...
 
 
This is the one I and pretty much everyone else uses: http://www.customled.com/products/elfr-1-electronic-led-flasher-relay
 
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jackimpact
Problem for me is that tomorrow is my first day off and riding weather is rolling in so I need turn signals. Suppose I dont need them, but I should lol

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jackimpact
It comes with the 21W resistors, so if they dont work, then I will look into that.
It's always the fuses... 
I would go with the relay if I were you. Don't even bother with the resistors. The relay is only $20 and it is much easier throwing a resistor on every connection. Plus if you decide to change your lights out again for whatever reason you will already be set. I also found there to be not very much room where I was tucking in all the wires - trying to make it clean with those fat resistors installed would be a pain for me.
 
The relay also fixes the flash rate no matter what combination of lights you have: 1 LED & 3 stock, 2 LED & 2 stock, 3 LED & 1 stock...
 
 
This is the one I and pretty much everyone else uses: http://www.customled.com/products/elfr-1-electronic-led-flasher-relay

A. Where does this plug in? B. So I would just plug this in and then straight wire the lights to the bike, minus the resistors? 

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biggaudi
Not trying to highjack the thread, awesome looking lights BTW, just curious if resistors or a relay are absolutely needed. If the lights function and you don't care about a faster flash, is it OK to leave them as such?

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caliesv
I'm with Biggaudi. Just slap all that crap in, have the light flash fast, ride the day away, then redo the wiring that night. Or get the relay. Simple solution

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mjh937
Yes. The relay or resistors only keep the flash rate correct. One LED and one incandescent light on each side may still have enough resistant they still flash slowly. You could always try of you decide to go with a relay. Worst case it will flash fast until you replace it. The relay is behind the left tank plastic.

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jackimpact
I am going to make a video of what is happening right now with just one front LED hooked up so you can tell me if its acting this way because only ones hooked up right now. Will post link in this thread.

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caliesv
Reconnect the oem bulb and see if it helps

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cndnmax
I really surprised at how many people blow fuses when they install new signals. Tips: ditch the resistor and just by a new relay(eBay ones are like $5), Google a wiring diagram or check your leads with a voltmeter(ground,DRLs,flashing), never leave an exposed lead/terminal/connector- if it touches the frame it will cause a short.

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cndnmax
Not trying to highjack the thread, awesome looking lights BTW, just curious if resistors or a relay are absolutely needed. If the lights function and you don't care about a faster flash, is it OK to leave them as such?
 
Led's can cause two issues: faster flash rate or a 4-way flashing. Faster flashing won't cause any issues, as long as you don't care about the law regulating how fast turn signals can flash.

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rowdy
Yes. The relay or resistors only keep the flash rate correct. One LED and one incandescent light on each side may still have enough resistant they still flash slowly. You could always try of you decide to go with a relay. Worst case it will flash fast until you replace it. The relay is behind the left tank plastic.
In some cases, (and I'm no expert, but I saw it on the internet, so it must be true), the resistors are used, not just to get the normal blink rate, but to keep the LEDs from having to deal with too much current and getting very hot.  The LED flashers I bought had resistors built in, so I didn't put any in line.  The blink rate was still hyper, so I used the customled relay.  Everything works fine. 
 
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Why can't left turners see us?

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rowdy
Yes. The relay or resistors only keep the flash rate correct. One LED and one incandescent light on each side may still have enough resistant they still flash slowly. You could always try of you decide to go with a relay. Worst case it will flash fast until you replace it. The relay is behind the left tank plastic.
In some cases, (and I'm no expert, but I saw it on the internet, so it must be true), the resistors are used, not just to get the normal blink rate, but to keep the LEDs from having to deal with too much current and getting very hot.  The LED flashers I bought had resistors built in, so I didn't put any in line.  The blink rate was still hyper, so I used the customled relay.  Everything works fine. 

BTW:  I didn't blow any fuses!  
 
 
 
... yet. :)
 
 

Why can't left turners see us?

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jackimpact
Good news everyone. Its not that I forgot how electricity work. Its the combination of a bad forum post on FZ07 forum and a dud signal. 
 
 
 
So found out the front left was hooked up wrong, the dark brown is turn, the light brown is the running light. I noticed the resistor was extremely hot. Also the "park" fuse was blown. 
 
Swapped it around, tested leads, leads were good and now correct. But wait! Now the light doesnt turn on even though the other 3 do. Grab test light. Its not resister, its the light itself.
 
So did the signal break from being wired wrong? (hot resistor) or was it a dud to begin with which blew a fuse or two. 
 
Gonna contact Revzilla tomorrow and look about getting a replacement. I put that shit all back together before I killed someone and the right side is perfect, left rear flashes fast because its missing a resistor in the line. 
 
 
 
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cndnmax
Yes. The relay or resistors only keep the flash rate correct. One LED and one incandescent light on each side may still have enough resistant they still flash slowly. You could always try of you decide to go with a relay. Worst case it will flash fast until you replace it. The relay is behind the left tank plastic.
In some cases, (and I'm no expert, but I saw it on the internet, so it must be true), the resistors are used, not just to get the normal blink rate, but to keep the LEDs from having to deal with too much current and getting very hot.  The LED flashers I bought had resistors built in, so I didn't put any in line.  The blink rate was still hyper, so I used the customled relay.  Everything works fine. 

 
False(kinda), load resistors(high wattage low resistance) are only used to increase the load(current) on a system. They have zero impact on the voltage going to the led since they are wired in parallel with the signals. stock signal relay requires a min load to operate.
Now, led's run at 3volts (give or take) the signals will have inline resistors build in that will reduce the voltage to the proper level but will will have zero increase in load since they are wired in series with the led's
Two different resistors with two completely different jobs.

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cndnmax
I noticed the resistor was extremely hot.
this is why I never use load resistors, the 21W rating you mentioned is a measurement of how much heat the resistor can dissapate before failing. If I remember correctly that resistor is 10ohms. At 14V that resistor is using 1.4amps and about 20W-that's an equivalent of having a 20w light bulb shoved inside the headlight Crowling. Granted signals are only used for a short period but let's say you leave your hazards on for a long time.
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jackimpact
Is the relay the thing linked earlier that goes under the front left tank fairing?
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rowdy
In some cases, (and I'm no expert, but I saw it on the internet, so it must be true), the resistors are used, not just to get the normal blink rate, but to keep the LEDs from having to deal with too much current and getting very hot.  The LED flashers I bought had resistors built in, so I didn't put any in line.  The blink rate was still hyper, so I used the customled relay.  Everything works fine. 

False(kinda), load resistors(high wattage low resistance) are only used to increase the load(current) on a system. They have zero impact on the voltage going to the led since they are wired in parallel with the signals. stock signal relay requires a min load to operate. Now, led's run at 3volts (give or take) the signals will have inline resistors build in that will reduce the voltage to the proper level but will will have zero increase in load since they are wired in series with the led's
Two different resistors with two completely different jobs.
Yea, difference between series resistors and aftermarket load (parallel) resistors.  Good point. 

Why can't left turners see us?

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