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AlbatrossCafe

Renthal Ultra Lows + CRG Arrow Mirrors + R6 Throttle Tube

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AlbatrossCafe
Hello everyone
 
I just replaced my stock bars with the Gray Renthal Ultra Lows. I also put in the motion-pro throttle tube and continued to use my CRG bar-end mirrors. I figured I would point out some key things and give install notes that may help if you decide to do the same.
 
Bars: (Gray, UltraLow): http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/renthal-street-handlebars-78
Mirrors: http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/crg-arrow-bar-end-mirror
Throttle Tube: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WJ7OIA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Stock Bar/Controls removal tips:
[ul type=disc][*]Taking the grips off initially was a pain in the ass. However, once you fit a screwdriver in between the grip & the bar or throttle tube and spray WD40 into the gap they will slide right off.[*]When removing the clutch lever assembly from the stock bar (and for re-installation as well) you will want to have as much slack in the cable as possible. Loosen the adjustment bolts (near where the cable actually runs into the clutch case) and remove the cable from that holder/guide completely. It makes this WAY easier and you won't stretch your cables as much.[*]You don't need to actually disassemble your clutch lever, brake lever, or electronics assemblies. You just have to remove them from the bar.
[/ul]
Bar/Controls Installation tips:
[ul type=disc][*]When putting the grips back on I didn't use any heat, lube, tools, glue, or anything else. It just involved a LOT of slow wiggling. They seem to be staying in place just fine.
[*]The Renthals have a measurement grid in the very center of the bar. 1 is lowest position, 5 is highest. Assuming the middle of the clamp (relative from front-to-back) is the "measurement point", I had mine set at about 2.75. This was the lowest I could go while still having reasonable clearance at full-clock. At full-clock, some wrapped electrical cables still touch but just barely. Here is a pic at a full-left turn, you can see cables barely resting on the tank.
[/ul]
[ul type=disc][*]For the controls - I ground off the nubs that are used to help position the controls with an angle grinder (didn't have a Dremel). I don't care for stock-part preservation like some. I knew I would spend forever getting the controls JUST right, and didn't want to be limited by a drilled hole. I am glad I did this way. I spent probably 20 minutes adjusting the electronics controls back and forth until I got just the right position. NOTE: If you do this, I highly recommend putting a layer of electrical tape around the bar under the control. It helps give just a little extra width (to replace the nub) and should help prevent the control from sliding around as much as possible.[*]Don't over-tighten the electrical controls. Tightening screws a ton against that plastic will crack it. Use electrical tape like I described above instead.[/ul]
CRG Mirrors:On the stock bar, I ran CRG Arrow Mirrors mounted on Rhinomoto Bar-end sliders. I knew the bar ends wouldn't work the Renthal bar, and had no idea what I was going to do about the mirrors. In the end, I think I found an ingenious solution. I knew the Renthal bars were a bit longer than stock and some people cut them short. Rather than do that, I just slide all my controls and grips in enough so that there was about half an inch of space on the end of the bar.http://i.imgur.com/ViUxdyw.jpg
I then mounted my mirror directly on the end of the bar. NOTE: Again, I wrapped the bar with 1 layer of electrical tape first. This gave it a snugger fit:http://i.imgur.com/dNAG9u2.jpg
You can see the tape here. After I had it mounted and positioned properly, I used a scissors & razor blade to carefully chop off the excess:http://i.imgur.com/lYR5lPf.jpg
Throttle Tube:The throttle tube was pretty straightforward. It would stick at full throttle when I first put it on. This was fixed by giving some slack to the cable where it connects at the engine. I also had to customize the tube a bit for the mirrors. The Motion-Pro tube is closed at the end whereas the stock was open. Because I wanted to slide the right grip up on the bar to leave space for my mirror, I had to cut off the very end of the Motion-Pro tube (I used a hackzall).http://i.imgur.com/kaj5TL8.jpg
Feel/Review:I am 6'2" and have longish arms. The stock bars were OK, but I hated sitting literally straight up & down when riding. I felt like a wind-sail going the wrong way. With the Renthals, I am bent slightly over. Not ridiculous, but I am not straight up anymore. My favorite part about the Renthals is that "full-tuck" is MUCH more comfortable. My arms/shoulders aren't stressed when laying on the tank. This is due to the wider bars + more sweep. My flexibility is garbage because I have a lot of muscle mass, so this helps me get lower without a lot of strain. My arms a little more tired during the ride as there is more weight on them, but I imagine I will get used to it as time goes on.
 
The CRG Arrow mirrors were great on the stock bars. On the Renthals, since they are a bit more swept back, the angle seems to be kind of weird. I haven't gotten to it out a lot yet though.
The Motion-Pro throttle tube was a great upgrade. It completely eliminates this "dead zone" that existed to me in the first 1/5 or so of the stock throttle tube - like it felt like I had to turn it all the way through the dead zone before the power started. Not with the upgrade. I like to run my throttle with a very very small amount of freeplay and a touchy response. This makes the bike a lot more responsive and it "feels" faster. Plus I like that I don't have to wrench my wrist to go full throttle.
 
Would I recommend these mods? Yes! All 3! If you have any questions or want pics of anything (my camera sucks though), let me know! Hope this helped!
http://i.imgur.com/YPoUyTw.jpg
 
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ryan4130
Can you take a picture of the stock bars next to the new ones? I want to know what difference there is in sweep and rise
 
Are your levers the extending/folding/adjustable ebay type? I just bought some, waiting for shipping. How do you like them?

'15 FZ-09 Cadmium Yellow
'15 White Fz-07 - Sold

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AlbatrossCafe
Can you take a picture of the stock bars next to the new ones? I want to know what difference there is in sweep and rise 
Are your levers the extending/folding/adjustable ebay type? I just bought some, waiting for shipping. How do you like them?
The Renthal bars rise about half the height of the stock ones, are about 3/4" longer on the ends, and the ends are about 1/2" back compared to stock. You can kind of see the sweep difference here, but keep in mind I'm holding the stock in front of the Renthal and not on top. The sweep was not noticeable really during casual riding - it just made it easier on my wrists to tuck-in at speeds.
 
http://i.imgur.com/zQalSHU.jpg
 
Difference in Rise:
 
http://i.imgur.com/YzOqOX0.jpghttp://i.imgur.com/YzOqOX0.jpg
 
Here is another guy's pic for kicks as well:
 
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2950/15295900598_07e4df3218_b.jpg
 
And yes - the Chinese levers that were $40? Other than the fact that the blue doesn't match the blurple, they are fantastic. The color options are great. They provide all the functionality of the real brand levers. Build quality is solid. The fact they are adjustable makes it real easy to set them up if you are moving your controls around (e.g. during a handlebar swap). You have to pull them about half as far as the stock levers, so it made my shifts a lot quicker and more fluid.
 
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ryan4130
Thanks for the pics! As for the levers, have you used the extending length functionality yet?

'15 FZ-09 Cadmium Yellow
'15 White Fz-07 - Sold

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AlbatrossCafe
Thanks for the pics! As for the levers, have you used the extending length functionality yet?
TBH I didn't even know they extended. I just looked and I don't see how it is possible. Even if it was, I wouldn't. The stock length levers made for a longer pull and also would hit my bar-end mirrors. 

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ryan4130
ViUxdyw
 
From that picture you can see the screw on the lever. If you loosen it than you can slide the blue piece and extend the lever length to whatever you want
  • Like 2

'15 FZ-09 Cadmium Yellow
'15 White Fz-07 - Sold

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vroomvroom
Hello everyone 
I just replaced my stock bars with the Gray Renthal Ultra Lows. I also put in the motion-pro throttle tube and continued to use my CRG bar-end mirrors. I figured I would point out some key things and give install notes that may help if you decide to do the same.
 
Bars: (Gray, UltraLow): http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/renthal-street-handlebars-78
Mirrors: http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/crg-arrow-bar-end-mirror
Throttle Tube: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WJ7OIA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Stock Bar/Controls removal tips:
[ul type=disc][*]Taking the grips off initially was a pain in the ass. However, once you fit a screwdriver in between the grip & the bar or throttle tube and spray WD40 into the gap they will slide right off.[*]When removing the clutch lever assembly from the stock bar (and for re-installation as well) you will want to have as much slack in the cable as possible. Loosen the adjustment bolts (near where the cable actually runs into the clutch case) and remove the cable from that holder/guide completely. It makes this WAY easier and you won't stretch your cables as much.[*]You don't need to actually disassemble your clutch lever, brake lever, or electronics assemblies. You just have to remove them from the bar.
[/ul]
Bar/Controls Installation tips:
[ul type=disc][*]When putting the grips back on I didn't use any heat, lube, tools, glue, or anything else. It just involved a LOT of slow wiggling. They seem to be staying in place just fine.
[*]The Renthals have a measurement grid in the very center of the bar. 1 is lowest position, 5 is highest. Assuming the middle of the clamp (relative from front-to-back) is the "measurement point", I had mine set at about 2.75. This was the lowest I could go while still having reasonable clearance at full-clock. At full-clock, some wrapped electrical cables still touch but just barely. Here is a pic at a full-left turn, you can see cables barely resting on the tank.
[/ul]
[ul type=disc][*]For the controls - I ground off the nubs that are used to help position the controls with an angle grinder (didn't have a Dremel). I don't care for stock-part preservation like some. I knew I would spend forever getting the controls JUST right, and didn't want to be limited by a drilled hole. I am glad I did this way. I spent probably 20 minutes adjusting the electronics controls back and forth until I got just the right position. NOTE: If you do this, I highly recommend putting a layer of electrical tape around the bar under the control. It helps give just a little extra width (to replace the nub) and should help prevent the control from sliding around as much as possible.[*]Don't over-tighten the electrical controls. Tightening screws a ton against that plastic will crack it. Use electrical tape like I described above instead.[/ul]
CRG Mirrors:On the stock bar, I ran CRG Arrow Mirrors mounted on Rhinomoto Bar-end sliders. I knew the bar ends wouldn't work the Renthal bar, and had no idea what I was going to do about the mirrors. In the end, I think I found an ingenious solution. I knew the Renthal bars were a bit longer than stock and some people cut them short. Rather than do that, I just slide all my controls and grips in enough so that there was about half an inch of space on the end of the bar.http://i.imgur.com/ViUxdyw.jpg
I then mounted my mirror directly on the end of the bar. NOTE: Again, I wrapped the bar with 1 layer of electrical tape first. This gave it a snugger fit:http://i.imgur.com/dNAG9u2.jpg
You can see the tape here. After I had it mounted and positioned properly, I used a scissors & razor blade to carefully chop off the excess:http://i.imgur.com/lYR5lPf.jpg
Throttle Tube:The throttle tube was pretty straightforward. It would stick at full throttle when I first put it on. This was fixed by giving some slack to the cable where it connects at the engine. I also had to customize the tube a bit for the mirrors. The Motion-Pro tube is closed at the end whereas the stock was open. Because I wanted to slide the right grip up on the bar to leave space for my mirror, I had to cut off the very end of the Motion-Pro tube (I used a hackzall).http://i.imgur.com/kaj5TL8.jpg
Feel/Review:I am 6'2" and have longish arms. The stock bars were OK, but I hated sitting literally straight up & down when riding. I felt like a wind-sail going the wrong way. With the Renthals, I am bent slightly over. Not ridiculous, but I am not straight up anymore. My favorite part about the Renthals is that "full-tuck" is MUCH more comfortable. My arms/shoulders aren't stressed when laying on the tank. This is due to the wider bars + more sweep. My flexibility is garbage because I have a lot of muscle mass, so this helps me get lower without a lot of strain. My arms a little more tired during the ride as there is more weight on them, but I imagine I will get used to it as time goes on.
 
The CRG Arrow mirrors were great on the stock bars. On the Renthals, since they are a bit more swept back, the angle seems to be kind of weird. I haven't gotten to it out a lot yet though.
The Motion-Pro throttle tube was a great upgrade. It completely eliminates this "dead zone" that existed to me in the first 1/5 or so of the stock throttle tube - like it felt like I had to turn it all the way through the dead zone before the power started. Not with the upgrade. I like to run my throttle with a very very small amount of freeplay and a touchy response. This makes the bike a lot more responsive and it "feels" faster. Plus I like that I don't have to wrench my wrist to go full throttle.
 
Would I recommend these mods? Yes! All 3! If you have any questions or want pics of anything (my camera sucks though), let me know! Hope this helped!
http://i.imgur.com/YPoUyTw.jpg

 
 
You have had a lot of time since this post... Do you still think the CRG Arrows work well with this setup, or have you since gone to a different mirror?

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AlbatrossCafe
You have had a lot of time since this post... Do you still think the CRG Arrows work well with this setup, or have you since gone to a different mirror?
Lookin at em right now: 
http://i.imgur.com/6q8PPLq.jpg
 
I don't see any mirrors that could do it better. Great field of view, great view quality (no vibrations), and they look badass. I have hit them a few times (on walls when parking, on other cars' mirrors, & my ass) and they haven't budged from my Renthals since I put em on. 0 complaints. I angled 'em out a bit so I can see other lanes more than myself. I can see 2 lanes on either side of me, can see directly behind me in either mirror, and have virtually no blind spot.
 
Only concern that might bother you is that one of them has faded from a black-black to a black with a hint of brown (almost like a "sharpie-black" color? if that makes any sense). But this is after 11k miles with half of those in the rain, so idc really.
 
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Guest ChicagoAJ
Awesome write up! I really want a different set of bars and I'm only an inch shorter than you so I might go with these eventually, I hate sitting straight up as well but for me it's somewhat necessary as I have a bad back from a couple injuries, but these might be just what I'm looking for.
 
 
I do have a tip for anyone reusing/installing grips on a fresh set of bars: get some isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol and wet a paper towel with it, rub that towel on the bar and get it nice and lubed up, then slide the grip on. You'll have about 10-20 seconds to position it where you want it before the alcohol evaporates. Once it completely evaporates that grip isn't going anywhere.

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AlbatrossCafe
I hate sitting straight up as well but for me it's somewhat necessary as I have a bad back from a couple injuries, but these might be just what I'm looking for.  

Yeah, before the FZ I had a Yamaha Raider for about 7 months. It was probably the coolest vehicle I've ever owned (even moreso than the FZ) but the slightly reclined seating position had my back aching after like 40 minutes. The stock FZ seating position was a bit too close to that. The Renthals are cheap & the swap only takes a few hours, so you really have nothing to lose. I am a lot more comfortable now that I can spread my weight out across my feet, ass, back, & now more on my hands/arms. 

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Guest ChicagoAJ
I hate sitting straight up as well but for me it's somewhat necessary as I have a bad back from a couple injuries, but these might be just what I'm looking for.  

Yeah, before the FZ I had a Yamaha Raider for about 7 months. It was probably the coolest vehicle I've ever owned (even moreso than the FZ) but the slightly reclined seating position had my back aching after like 40 minutes. The stock FZ seating position was a bit too close to that. The Renthals are cheap & the swap only takes a few hours, so you really have nothing to lose. I am a lot more comfortable now that I can spread my weight out across my feet, ass, back, & now more on my hands/arms.
Are these bars threaded to accommodate our stock bar-end weights or do you just use them as is?

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AlbatrossCafe
Yeah, before the FZ I had a Yamaha Raider for about 7 months. It was probably the coolest vehicle I've ever owned (even moreso than the FZ) but the slightly reclined seating position had my back aching after like 40 minutes. The stock FZ seating position was a bit too close to that. The Renthals are cheap & the swap only takes a few hours, so you really have nothing to lose. I am a lot more comfortable now that I can spread my weight out across my feet, ass, back, & now more on my hands/arms.
Are these bars threaded to accommodate our stock bar-end weights or do you just use them as is?
You don't need the weights at all. The weights were just to help with vibrations. The way the Renthals are constructed gives them less vibration than the stock bars even with heavier aftermarket bar-end weights. I think I sold mine on here for like $20. Especially since I just clamped the mirrors right on the Renthals and the bar is slightly longer than stock, there is no need for bar ends. 

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Guest ChicagoAJ
Are these bars threaded to accommodate our stock bar-end weights or do you just use them as is?
You don't need the weights at all. The weights were just to help with vibrations. The way the Renthals are constructed gives them less vibration than the stock bars even with heavier aftermarket bar-end weights. I think I sold mine on here for like $20. Especially since I just clamped the mirrors right on the Renthals and the bar is slightly longer than stock, there is no need for bar ends.
Good to know! Thanks for the info!

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rowdy
@albatrosscafe I have very close to the same three mods you posted here (not sure why I didn't see this before). I have the Renthal Ultra Lows, Motion Pro R6 throttle tube, and the CRG Hindsight LS mirrors. I went with the Hindsight LS mirrors because in my driveway and bike garage, space can get a little tight, so I wanted to be able to fold them in. I also have Renthal bar ends which the CRG mirrors fit on perfectly.
Just like you, I'm happy with the mods. The Renthal Utlra Lows are great and create a more sport bike feel (combined with rearsets - even better). The CRG mirrors, I love, but I've had the same problem with the anodizing starting to change color. They are fantastic mirrors though, and with the Hind Sights being bar-ends, it opens up the front view from the bike a lot, which I love. I was a little worried about the R6 throttle tube, because of the torque and engine breaking that already is famous on our bikes and I had already taken out all of the throttle slack (meaning I had to loosen things up even more for the R6 tube). It is a nice change but not the dramatic difference that some people describe. In fact, I think some people, if they haven't adjusted the factory throttle cable slack, are probably noticing the lack of slack in the cable (bigger cam), more than the actual twist distance. ;) It is an improvement though and it isn't enough to make the throttle too twitchy.
Those are my 2 cents, and thanks for the nice review!
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Why can't left turners see us?

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AlbatrossCafe
@albatrosscafe I have very close to the same three mods you posted here (not sure why I didn't see this before). I have the Renthal Ultra Lows, Motion Pro R6 throttle tube, and the CRG Hindsight LS mirrors. I went with the Hindsight LS mirrors because in my driveway and bike garage, space can get a little tight, so I wanted to be able to fold them in.
In an ideal world, CRG would make the Arrow mirrors with the Hindsight LS folding functionality. I think the arrows look best with our bike. As it is right now, if I have to go somewhere narrow, I have to fold the mirrors down (they pivot perpendicular to the length of the bike, see the pic below - it is folded down 2 clicks) and if I'm not careful I mess up my mirror adjustment. Plus it isn't very quick if I have to do it while riding. 
http://i.imgur.com/lYR5lPf.jpg
 
I definitely would like rearsets like you have with this setup. If I put the tips of my toes on the stock pegs while riding it is nearly the perfect position. Unfortunately it doesn't bother me enough to warrant spending $350 lol
 

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avanti
Those only look like "ultra-low" bars... if mounted upside-down. Can you say cafe racer???

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rowdy
Those only look like "ultra-low" bars... if mounted upside-down. Can you say cafe racer???
If mounted upside down, can you say ridiculous???  :) 
 

Why can't left turners see us?

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avanti
"If mounted upside down, can you say ridiculous???" Maybe a less ridiculous name would have been more appropriate.
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rowdy
"If mounted upside down, can you say ridiculous???" Maybe a less ridiculous name would have been more appropriate.
Okay... they really aren't that low. :) 
 

Why can't left turners see us?

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Guest ChicagoAJ
So I'm trying to decide on either the Renthal Ultra Lows, an OEM FZ1 drag bar which is basically flat, and the Woodcraft clip-ons. I don't feel like the Ultra Lows will be a drastic enough change for me and I'll be unhappy with them. The OEM FZ1 drag bar is only $39 and it's somewhere between the Ultra Lows and the Woodcraft clip-ons.
 
I don't even plan to get rear sets, so I don't think the clip-ons would be a wise choice even though I love the look.
 
What are your thoughts, @albatrosscafe ?
 
 
For reference, here's an FZ-07 with the OEM FZ1 drag bars:
 
 
14232413_10207012049927136_374163201048889875_n.jpg?oh=40ce062422786362ed4e9bb0f9873bb9&oe=583EB89F
 
Photo credit to: @Thomascrown

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AlbatrossCafe
I think your assumption is correct. The ultralows don't convert the FZ-07 to make it like my last bike, a CBR 600 F4i. It basically just goes from "straight up and down" riding position to slightly leaned over, which made much more of a difference than I thought in the way of longer-ride comfort & the way the weight of my body rests on the bike. But in terms of before/after immediate feeling of change, you aren't gonna really feel like it is now a "sportbike". This is not to take anything away from the ultralows - I definitely noticed an immediate change, it just wasn't huge.
 
Sounds like you should go with a drag bar. I think I originally was thinking of that but I didn't like how it looked (flat and almost no sweep). The sweep is that the Ultralows & Stock have is necessary for me. Either way, $40-$60 for a bar is not huge so it is not like you can't change at any given time.

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Guest ChicagoAJ
I think your assumption is correct. The ultralows don't convert the FZ-07 to make it like my last bike, a CBR 600 F4i. It basically just goes from "straight up and down" riding position to slightly leaned over, which made much more of a difference than I thought in the way of longer-ride comfort & the way the weight of my body rests on the bike. But in terms of before/after immediate feeling of change, you aren't gonna really feel like it is now a "sportbike". This is not to take anything away from the ultralows - I definitely noticed an immediate change, it just wasn't huge. 
Sounds like you should go with a drag bar. I think I originally was thinking of that but I didn't like how it looked (flat and almost no sweep). The sweep is that the Ultralows & Stock have is necessary for me. Either way, $40-$60 for a bar is not huge so it is not like you can't change at any given time.
I just wish I could do a test with all the options before actually making a decision, haha. I might just put a broom handle or something in the stock risers and see how it feels. That'll be pretty close to the drag bars. I'm not looking for sportbike riding position as I never plan to get rearsets, but the sweep of the stock bars/Ultra Lows just puts me off in terms of looks. And the stock bars definitely have to go, they're so damn high!  
Thanks for the opinion, bud! 
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aaron
So I'm trying to decide on either the Renthal Ultra Lows, an OEM FZ1 drag bar which is basically flat, and the Woodcraft clip-ons. I don't feel like the Ultra Lows will be a drastic enough change for me and I'll be unhappy with them. The OEM FZ1 drag bar is only $39 and it's somewhere between the Ultra Lows and the Woodcraft clip-ons.  
I don't even plan to get rear sets, so I don't think the clip-ons would be a wise choice even though I love the look.
 
What are your thoughts, @albatrosscafe ?
 
 
For reference, here's an FZ-07 with the OEM FZ1 drag bars:
 
 
14232413_10207012049927136_374163201048889875_n.jpg?oh=40ce062422786362ed4e9bb0f9873bb9&oe=583EB89F
 
Photo credit to: @Thomascrown
 
 
AJ do you have a link to the FZ1 bars? I'm curious about them. I was planning on going with the ultra lows and was not aware of the FZ1 bars. You've got me thinking now! I looked around a little bit on Google but when searching for FZ1 bars it was giving me a bunch of aftermarket parts not OEM. So it is the original OEM bar for an FZ1 that you are considering?

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Guest ChicagoAJ
Disregard my last post. I think i found them at Yamaha Parts House. The nice thing is the ends of the FZ1 bar appear to be threaded so I wonder our factory bar ends would work? That would be pretty sweet because then I could keep my Rhinomoto bar ends for my mirrors. http://www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/p/yamaha/2d1-26111-02-00/handlebar
Sorry for the late reply, I'm never on the site over the weekend. Yea, our bar ends are compatible with the FZ1 bar. Also, the throttle control nub has a hole already pre-drilled for the bar and it works with our controls. According to @thomascrown , it was the only hole that works for our control set-up. But it's definitely the most important one to use.  
 
It's $44.20 shipped with the flat5 promo-code on partsfish.com.

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